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Have you tried 4K decals? Check them out.

WE HAVE A WINNER!! This is awesome shane! That unit is back to live!!! I love it!! Well done!! Great 2 part series!!! Sometimes the items you have at home can save you some money! As they say if it works, it works!

Nice work!

SMART! I have one that growls on occasion. Next time it starts making noise, I'm going to try the tape trick!

Nice work. It COULD be a permanent fix. I find that the more times I take a loco apart, the closer I get to breaking something on it that is inevitably unobtainium. If it’s working well…let it be… until it isn’t… 😊👍👍

This really takes me back. I used to work as a TV Broadcast Engineer. This is classic trouble shooting at its best and I find both fun and interesting to watch. Thanks for the video. BTW, if you ever decide to convert it to DCC, you might want to replace the painters tape with kapton tape.

Excellent presentation Shane. That is a beautiful loco. 👍😊😎

Great video. Those are great locos and they pull good.

It’s good to know that something I did more than 25 years ago is still being used today. We used to call these cars “adapter cars”. It’s all about having fun.

Hey Shane…. Just two more cents here… If you’ve got other intermountain shells, I’d start with a shell swap and see if this shell is silent on the other chassis and vice versa. If the shell is indeed the issue, then I’d put black sharpie on the inside of this shell and try again for the witness marks, just to verify. It’ll scratch sharpie off easier than paint. It could be the shell squeezing the chassis (as opposed to rubbing directly on the motor) in some way (as someone else said). But if you get the marks in the sharpie ink, I’d go with your shim idea to start. Pretty much exactly as you’ve described. Also look at the angle of the motor/cradle. It could be pushed out toward one side or the other. It only takes a small amount to cause that. For the light issue, you might check to make sure that’s not a dcc decoder. I couldn’t really tell. I’ve had that happen when running decodered locos on DC track. If it’s sound ready, it might be a socketed board or even a decoder. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Can’t wait for the final results. And good luck with the relationship issue. It’s definitely hard out there. I feel you. 😊

I would try 5thou at bottom of arm. I also keep blister packages,it's all different thickness in sizes and free.

I go by the sound and it seems that the noise coming from the drive train as it gets faster and slower as one applies power. Like mentioned. Maybe apply some blue tape to the inside of the shell so it sits a bit wider than it does now. You say you have others? then swap the shells and listen to it. That will eliminate the shell.

Hey my friend , everything you discribed in your reason for delayed video production are sympyoms of dipression and take it from somebody that's been there, you'll feel much better if you seek out a professional to talk that out with. We subscribers don;t just watch your videos because of the content, There a hundreds of channels that are similar. We watch because we like your approach, your demeanor, your open vulnerability you present to us as a trusted friend.And as a trusted friend, we want what is best for you, go and treat youself to the wellness care you deserve, my friend as we would encouage you to do as your besties. Thank you for what you do, Shane. As for that inIntermountain, I have one doing the same thing and was stumped, and now I have direction. You're doing good things here. I hope you can get back to enjoying it!

Would blue painters masking tape be thick enough to make a shim? (the blue kind) It's easy to cut and use...

I would look towards another possibility which is when the shell is on it could cause tightness in the frame halves that causes the sound. I would also investigate that as a possibility. Could be in those darn end bearing blocks even

That is a very fine custom paint job! Enjoy the model If you have take a loupe, microscope, or a macro-lens to see imperfections, it serves the purpose, since most people do not even have a loupe! There was a time, when model makers like Wiking (famous for their model cars in H0 and N) and Arnold with their Rapido trains (the old German company of the 60s through 80s, NOT contemporary Canadian Rapido) deliberately made very simplified models to allow hobbyists to have crisp toy-models at LOW cost, that you could place into a landscape, that looked real from a bird's perspective, which is really what you have in N-scale! Arnold really had mechanically TOP quality trains with somewhat bolder looks than Minitrix and Fleischmann, but cost on average only 2/3 of all competitors! US-model makers, like Athearn and Bachmann were not sold in Germany, the reasons for which I learned the hard way in USA in the 80s. Back to simplified looks: Look at old post cards and tell me, if you can see headlight chrome trim-rings or read license plates on cars, or read all details on train data-plates, or count freakin rivets. You can NOT! That kept everything affordable. I for one do NOT want a $30thousand Rolex, when a $99 Seiko-5 or $50 Timex will do just fine for looking at the time, and the same was and is true for N-scale. It was a huge part of the attraction 50 years ago for me to switch to N as a kid, to trade simplified looks fit a smaller scale in exchange for excellent mechanical operation and lo cost! 1978 Momsy gave me one of the best Xmas gifts ever with the first N-scale set, and I had so much fun with my Minitrix old Western pack with the UP 0-6-0 steamer freight train, building a desert mountain layout with a trestle made from match sticks (literally!) and 3ftx5ft landcape sprinkled with bird-cage sand from our canary bird's stash! (his name was Tweety, and he sang beautifully until he died at almost 17) CRIKEY, these are TOYS that are supposed to RUN, not fine jewellery under a microscope!

The Alcos with the pronounced eye-brow window rain-sill, that thingy that sticks out over the cab's side windows and bends down towards the rear, were PA1 units. All it needs is some eye shade and mascara, and it's a Beauty-Queen, as it was elected the most beautiful Diesel ever. Mind you, I think others are much prettier, but tastes in girls vary ... BEWARE! These old Con-Cor machines were Kato in disguise, but Kato was still learning in those days, and learn they did! For one, the old motors are often beyond rescue, but dowsing them in CRC Switch Cleaner can help. WORSE: I think I mentioned this before, but on a lot of switches these old Con-Cor C-C locos always derailed. The culprit is the idler axle at the far inner end and the bad geometry they chose for the bogie, not pivoting on the centre axle, but asymmetrically. The drive axles push the leading idler (so always the rear bogie as the engine is running) to the outer rail of a curve. The wheel flange then gets caught on the end of any nearby switch tongue, cuts into the switch or simply lifts, and WHOOPSY! The ONLY cure I found, was to shave off the flange of the idler axles' wheels! That works, but you need to practise on some old tossers first, to get the Dremel shaveing technique right. I use a cylindrical polishing bit, hold it on the wheel's flange at about 45 degrees, so it forces the wheel to rotate while still installed, and gradually shave off the flange straight down all the way flat! I no longer even look at vintage US market models, because I have run into way too many real problems with Con-Cor, LifeLike, and whatever US-branded model trains from before the 2000s. YIKES! Forget about Atlas and Bachmann, as they were seriously evil!!

You could electrical tape instead of kapkon tape, and it would work fine

for prime mover try CV49

Conversion cars are a good idea and work really well when connecting locomotives to rolling stock. But I’m looking for a way to connect my older Atlas RS-2s with rapido couplers to my newer Kato RS-3 with knuckle couplers. Not sure how to achieve this though and I don’t want to break anything trying to mcguiver something

great camera work are you a professional cameraman

please contact me about parts.

I'm new to n scale but not new to modeling.I enjoy your site, and the will it run videos. I have atlas and kato locos only right now mostly new and.some used . Your site has helped me a lot as to what I look for. Thank you!

Where do you get your passenger cars because there very expensive

We have a kodachrome that still runs everyday out here. Was just used as a yard switcher but has gone out on the mainline a few times this year.

Good find. Thats a very nice runner. 😊👍👍

Pine Bluff is not the locomotive's name it is the place where it is based and maintained. Very nice engine. W Alsdorf

I had to watch this to see other people dealing with Bachmann junk. I have two 8- 40c locomotives i put Tsunami sound in , they ran horrible. I ended up reworking one loco extensively to run correct. This required hard wiring tthe trucks , milling the frame , cutting the oem board. Then disassembling the trucks completely making my own wipers and new middle pick up out of brass. Bachmanns frames need more weight, the trucks are to loose , the wheels are not in gauge. Then the gears on the wheel axles have to much slop in them. Also the frame halfs are uneven. I had to sand the bottoms to keepnthe locomotive level. Plus be careful taking rhe trucks apart. The plastic is so cheap you can easily break the tabs and you will need a replacement. Also you could pull the brushes out to clean the contact better. I usually wash all the parts in warm water with lite detergent.

Your struggle to remove the shell takes me back 52 years to the first time. I did it on an identical unit to strip the shell and repaint it SP&S. That yellow paint is THICK. Mine was used too and cost me $ 5 Considering I was earning $ 1.25 an hour then, that was my monthly train budget.😂. W Alsdorf

Originally they all came undecorated with a decal set in the box. Their power pickup was iffy. I loved mine but a switcher needs working couplers front and back. The brushes wore down quickly. W Alsdorf

Not Bob Ross -- more like Mr Carlson's Lab: youtube.com/@mrcarlsonslab -just a different subject matter. My step-dad wants trains. I know N-scale's too small for him, but it's also the only way he can have mountain scenery along a river on a 2' by 4' layout (so, I'll help with fiddly bits).

Will it run on Kato Unitrack?

Great video guys!!! My buddy just gave me the same unit but it needs some TLC. I really enjoyed all the videos on this mower, learned alot. Keep up the good work.

Excellent presentation my friend 👍😊😎

Best n scale train show video on UA-cam! " There's no n scale here... The prices suck... Ooo!, garden scale! And here's a cool dude! F**k it. I'm outta here, bye!" It was exactly my experience at our local train show this year!😂😉

I have a UP and SP of this model and they both came with sun shades.

i seen some trains on market place can i donate them to your channel for content. how could i do that...like i mention before i am i scale rc builder but your channel i my favorite by far thinking of starting rail roading ... by the way i want to model Cotton Belt that reminds me of my child hood......grew you in northern Calionna near a ford motor plant

Very nice southern pacific b23-7 you have! Although it may be dusty but the paint has some nice detail on it.

If Bachmann was worth their salt, they'd repair those nylon gears at no or low cost. Supposedly they have a lifetime warranty.

You get what you pay for.

hey brother need my fix lol been watching old videos