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Yeah the Sabot petals are still leaving the barrel before the Sabot itself so it basically has no stabilization to even use the fins

Next can you try an absolute FK load of buckshot? or marbles? Like a massively scaled up .12ga?

It's notable that the sabot seems to hit/fly past the target long before the projectile itself. That seems to suggest they're already separating long before leaving the barrel. You could try having a notch, rib, or bulge in your projectile that the sabot cannot push past before leaving the barrel.

The sabot is still not woring, it is stripping its thread and being pushed ahead of the round.

Now add some Flechettes to it

Bigger Flechette please....... It's not about chamber pressure or anything else.... when a arrow is not flying true, make the feather bigger.

Maybe a nut and washer at the tip could hold the contraption together during the travel through the barrel, and/or heating the all-thread up at the point of assembly so the plastic melts into the thread for stronger grip.

Maybe you could replace the fins with a cone to distribute the pressure more evenly, you could also make them slightly smaller diameter and continue the TPU sabots around the back of the round to act as its own pusher plate?

Hood Denter 2000

Can you print nylon?

Have you looked at “everything black powder” channel where he’s experimented with duplex loads as in powder charge. (Small amounts of smokeless powder and black powder) it’s worth a good look if your cannon is steel and not iron.

With long evolution of projectiles we become back with arrows

using too much powder?

Wouldnt a cinderblock wall be filled with cement?

3D printed crap failing is not surprising. The 3D crap blew apart and out faster than the penetrator. Try hand carving a 3 piece sabot out of 351 EPS and make it a solid cylinder around the penetrator with a couple of pusher discs behind it.

3D printed will not work. Billet rod, cnc machined is the way.

It looks to Me like the sabot is being pushed off the dart inside the barrel as the sabot half's are flying much faster than the dart. Maybe put a nut or some kind of small flange at the front of the dart for the sabot to push against or inside the sabot with groves on the inside of the sabot for it to go into. Any way to make the sabot hold the dart until it leaves the barrel .

A design opinion. The pusher: Two wood disks with a high density rubber cushion in the middle. Like an Oreo cookie. The 3-D printed sabot: a 6 piece design - a bottom cup that will fully house and protect the delicate fins - 4 leaf nearly full length airgun pellet shaped sabot that seats into a groove in the mouth of the cup - a rubber band or o-ring to keep the front end of the sabot together. The dart: Same design with a shorter length but larger diameter piece of all thread. Beef up the diameter of the all thread as much as possible. This is a cool project.

Why bother with plastic fins? They are too weak for those pressures. I can't recall one time on this channel when they worked. Get a sabot made with metal fins single cast.

Depleted uranium, or you're wasting our time. My finger is hovering over the unsubscribe button...

You could just mount some iron sights. An anti aircraft machine gun type sight would be cool

You may want to lower loads quite a bit , just to figure out first points of breakage. Then start strengthening design of projo. But you definitely need a thicker more ridged shaft . 3/8" and 1/2" all thread are way too soft for the forces being placed on it. I would guess the barrel itself is preventing the all-thread from completely turning into a u. Lets try 1/2" black iron or galvanized pipe sch 40 ,12" length . Get a dirt cheap harbor freight mig welder and put your fins on that pipe. You definitely need much better support at rear of projectile. Lets refer to Jeff's methods over at taofladermous. Pardon my spelling, please .

Instead of pool noodles alone for a “pusher/gas seal” try gluing a piece of pool noodle to a plywood disc and trying different orientations like, noodle against powder vs. wood against powder.

Video starts at 3:52

Fill a container with high density expanding foam. And insert the dart into till it hardens and then cut till about 2" of foam left for pusher. The foam should be dense enough to take the for of the shot but with cuts along the sides the resistance will break them off going down range

I think the dart has to be heavier/dense than the sabot. The sabot pieces shouldn't hit the target before the dart. Maybe a crossbow arrow (bolt) with 100+ grain tip with a 3d printed sabot?

You definitely need a much shorter sabot, I think most of the issues with the penetrator come from it being too long

Have you considered lost foam casting for projectiles?

Look at how huge the lugs on the Anferov Bullet are. That plus a rigid polymer are what you need in order to use polymer sabots. Otherwise you'll have to use aluminum.

You're stripping the sabot off the dart in the barrel, there isn't enough engagement to make this work. If you want to go incremental, change the fin section so the allthread extends all the way to the end beyond the fins, and make a set of solid puck gas seals with a conical front that socket and push the core directly. At that point you probably want to change the sabot leaves so they have large vent holes and don't act as gas seals, because they look weak enough that they may strip off in the barrel from pressure leakage. To make the sabots work as intended you're going to have to have much more positive engagement, something like a cone shaped washer at the nose of the projectile that the sabot leaves notch into, and are free to slip back out of under drag. If you want to start fresh and go easy, thread that rod into a solid disc of light material and use pool noodle sections as the sabot. The disc should manage the pressure and provide enough drag for at least a little stability, and the pool noodle just needs to be wrapped in plain paper to hold it in place. If it's unstable, add weight to the nose, and/or coil about a foot of twine attached behind the disc to unfurl and add some drag stabilization.

Video starts at 3:40

Looks like the gas pressure is shredding your sabot in the barrel and not accelerating your projectile

Please try glass as the outer shell. If you can find a glass blower. So the glass will blow apart on impact but the steel dart will continue forward. A glass slug with a steel core. With perforations cut into the glass to ensure separation on impact, not before. The plastic is too light and too fragile.

What if u just made the fins out of metal and improved the thing u used to seperate the apfsds. The foam or whatever that was. Maybe make it from wood or plastic and so it seals well so it can push the apfsds out the barrel intact

Maybe print something to support the fins. Extend the sabot shroud down to the fins.

Brah, 2:20 mins of ads, out of a 10 min video?

Powder load seems to be running hot enough to blow the sabot off the dart. Use a slower burning powder charge, a lower charge, or add a base sabot with some sort of collar section, keeping your current dart design. Could also look at adding a sleeve to the dart or the base sabot to impart spin.

This channel needs a SlowMo Guys collab!

you should use a lighter rod or a more aggressive thread, the sabot petals are outrunning the dart and thus it prevents the dart from getting enough speed and thus tumbling

I think the rod needs to physically engage with the sabot more for it to not be pushed out, easy fix would be 2 bolts and a washer near the penetrator that the sabot sits flush around or behind, minimal redesign require addition mass at the from for high speed stability.

The sabot should cover the entire dart including fins with a base so the entire dart is supported. I would also leave part of the rod base exposed so it can be pushed by the sabot. I hope to see this work for you.

that shirt you are wearing reminds me of nose art of a P-40 Warhawk squadron called the "Aleutian Tigers"

WOW that 1st shot was far beyond devastating that would have liquified a man!

Now maybe a slower burning powder and or a slow mo camera watching the muzzle of the cannon to see if your powder load is to aggressive and blowing the projectile apart before it ever leaves.

throw a rod on a lathe, machine groves down the length of the rod, 3d print the sabot petals solid and then heat the rod up to melt the sabot petals into the grooves

Strap random rockets to it

The TPU is likely too soft. It's obvious that the sabot is stripping off the allthread. Do you have the capability to print in something like nylon? It might be tough enough to survive while also being rigid enough to grip. The suggestions others have made to add a couple of nuts on the allthread are also a good idea. Don't bother with the pusher disks, all they're doing is transferring load to the wrong part of the projectile. You might also want to try reduced powder loads and work up to full power - this might provide some useful data on how the design functions when it isn't being shredded.

Id get rid of the bands and put the shot in front of a nitro card typr wadding like a shotgun slug

If you compare the Sabot from like Tank Rounds to yours. The Sabot from Tank Rounds to not bend or flex at all. Instead of using some sort of Plastic, i would recommend wood. Since it is easy to work with, cheap, readily available and strong enough. However, to prevent the sabot from sliding. It will ether be necessary to make a tide tolerance and press it into the barrel. Or/And use something like a nut near the front of the Round to increase the Surface Area contact.

It looks like the gas seal on the end of the sabot is getting disintegrated because it's too thin. Make it longer, add some gas check ridges to it like the ones on an AK47 piston for example, then taper it down toward the pointy tip and that design should work. Can't say for sure if the fins will survive but it should actually exit the barrel at speed.