Відео

Thank you for sharing.. Yes .. same top level company. The pedal shown in Hzxvogen manual was lots of pins.. Keep us informed of progress.

I see the pedal is offered by both Hzxvogen and Hitbox.. The numbers on the 5 pin socket of the pedal match the numbering of the Torch socket.. The wiring (schematic) should be same as shown in this video.. for the cables .. To know what is in the pedal box should be easy to see.

Pedal is analogue potentiometers. And the controlling not the same as a button on the torch

How I can send the photo?

@@pistoletov1974 Sorry we were preparing for and then yesterday was Father's day. I saw it is possible to post photo to community bulletin board on YT. I think it is only way.

Not a simple answer. It depends on thickness (plus same to same thickness), condition of metal (rust etc), use (structural vs patch panel), type of metal (cold rolled, hot, stainless, 2 dissimilar types), and settings one is using at the time (pulse or not, amps, etc). I use both the stick and the tig operations of this welder.. which adds more choices / decisions to make.. Simple rule is match diameter of filler to thickness of metal so melt at same rate.. Same for tungsten .. close to size of rod / part thickness but that just starting point.. Always test and set up .. if metal is not new then may vary in thickness (rust too).. which impacts what rod/filler/stick to use.

I can measure it .. later today. Assume you mean the gas inlet hose from cylinder to back of unit? I seem to recall 7mm but will check. Hopefully I have a left over piece as I don't want to disconnect it.. If I don't I can measure OD of it.

Didn't have to measure.. Hose had info printed on outside.. It is 1/4" ID Lot# 1377190-68 708289468787 200 ft

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Many thanks!

@@mladenenglang You are welcome

Thank you.. appreciate it.

No problems. Still using it as a TIG and as a portable stick welder. I however did replace the Tig torch early on to a lighter flexible one with a simple trigger tab on it.. only advice is to make sure all connections are clean and secure including ground. you probably have done that but in case thought would mention.. Just unscrewing and reattaching cables can help with hiccups.

Thank you for the kind words.. I have more content including on wiring but haven't gotten to converting and uploading it .. takes a lot to do so. I'm very happy with wiring and how it seems to be working.. I'm currently working on an extension harness that lets me use an external instrument cluster like a remote full read out scanner..

If it is a Magnum 5.2/5.9 with Magnum heads then the holes are blind holes and no longer go through. If someone has put the older LA 360 heads on it then the stud holes see the coolant passages.

Stock 318 Magnum engine from 1998. Thanks for the help!

I've been binging these project videos all day, really excellent content. I can't understand why you don't have more views/likes etc. Just arrived at the wiring harness installment, looking forward to seeing the final victory.

I added the subscribe button like recommended but seems others in almost every video they make ask and remind people to subscribe/like/comment.. I'm happy enough that some of you subscribe on your own due to it being of value ? to you.

Thanks .. gotcha's are part of am I wasting my money or heck I can live with that for the price. The real surprise is that it is an awesome stick welder too that's light and easy to take anywhere.

Nada. Es solo DC, por lo que no puede TIG de aluminio. No. It is only DC so can not Tig aluminum

It is DC only so even though it is powerful enough it will not. One needs AC option on a welder to do that..

The notches LOCK it in position. If you lean on it, or put a lot of weight on it, or both they keep it from moving. It is IMO safer and easier than having to really crank down on the star knobs. It also helps prevent gouging of the adjustment slot by cranking down on it. Instead one is tightening down on the adjustment washer..

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 well, ill know soon as I ordered one. From reading others posts they have all dealt with this issue as I expect I will.,but none found it necessary to go to the trouble you did. But that is your prerogative. I hope those notches are at the angles you need.

I didn't order them on line. I went to our local hardware store that we support (not a big box). They had 8M Star Knobs in their nuts/bolts/etc section.

I've been using it for months after I made some modifications to original.. I use it for a welding table and its tilt and height adjustments work great to allow getting into a comfortable welding position.. I also use it as a multi-purpose work bench.. I've used it with my vise on it, to cut sheetmetal using the slot openings for the blade to protrude through, to drill on , etc.. It has held up to all of that and could not be happier with it.. Especially as you noted the price point is great.. If you haven't watched my video on the mods I made (part 2) .. take a gander they certainly made a difference to me.

I did see part two. I didn’t have as much an issue with the horizontal spreader so just loosened the bolts. I added the ratcheting arm and two knobs so that works. I didn’t entirely see the mod with the washers and you didn’t show how that worked in action. I wasn’t sure how the washer would move when going between detents. For under $100 it’s adequate and will suffice for my needs.

Added a short ..least hope it ends up as one if not a 27sec video showing how done and how it supports. ua-cam.com/video/DsHUhctEuyM/v-deo.html

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 ahh I see. You need to remove then turn then re insert. Did you think of some sort of locating pin. Retractable? Then all you’d need are a few holes. I’m sure you’re handy enough to design one.

Technically - yes. Realistically - depends on how far and how much you are willing to spend/do. It was possible to put a huge V8 in a VW bug too. The manual shows a pedal switch with instructions. It states that it has a fourteen-lead aero-socket on it. The picture shows a pedal with 12 pin connector but the front of the unit only has a 5 pin??? I have never seen it sold or offered anywhere. If used it eliminates use of 4T or pulse settings. I believe it is similar to some foot pedals that have a rheostat control on the side of the pedal. Since the manual says the unit senses the pedal and limits the machine to 2T and eliminates front panel current adjustment to me that means technically one can be rigged up to work. IMO it probably would be better to just get a different welder that already has that capacity. By switching to trigger switch and having pulse 2T/4T I don't see a need for a pedal for any of the welding I have done but that is a personal preference decision.

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 cool options for other people who have the same thing was wondering if it would work thanks for the info on the machine.

Very welcome.

Very Welcome.. glad it helps

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 And yes I forgot to mention, the length variations for Dinse connectors and sockets seen to be part of the Chinese supplier's landscape and not just applicable to these machines only. I've gotten to the point of just chucking them into the lathe upon arrival to match them up, since it seems to be a dog's breakfast out there for the several Asian machines I own. Not so much though for the high dollar units. More folks need to see your videos in order to save themselves a lot of aggravation. Once again, thank you!

That can be found in the "Operation" section of user guide/manual. There are two parameters. The 'Pulse Frequency' is from 0.5 to 200Hzy. This is cycles per second which is a known based on what you set the menu to. By that I mean if you set it to 1 cycle per second then it is going to be 1 cycle per second. If you like to watch strobe lights you can crank it all the way up to 200 but it still will be pulsing at the 200 per second rate. The second parameter is the 'Pulse Duty' rate which is variable from 5% to 95%. It is not as simple though. It is a % so it varies based on your other setting(s). An analogy might how many times you stomp on the gas/petrol pedal per second is your pulse frequency. How long you hold it down and how far you let up on it between stomps is your pulse duty. .. IMO getting it right is getting right for you and for what your welding.. One can weld at a faster or slower rate or raise or lower amperage by playing with the two settings.. Kind of like welding position .. its where you feel and can work comfortably. Like all other welding its best to get set up on test pieces of the same stuff one is welding.. You can get into a rhythm and keep heat down and/or time using filler rod..

Thank's a lot I think I will buy it! Looks that it can last as long as a miller or lincoln the way I will use it. Sheet metal only! The only flaw I will get it's dont weld AC! Like the HVT250P ac dc!

You are very welcome.. Originally my intent included AC Tig welders but the only time it really is needed is for Aluminum. The difference in cost versus how often I might do that made this welder the hands down choice. I do, surprised me, use the MMA stick side of this welder a fair amount.. it is so light and easy to transport and welds heavy steel/stainless easily with its smooth power. I ended up not liking the European style Tig torch itself. I ditched that and use a light weigh flexible handle with simple trigger on it now. That modification may have made the total price closer to an AC unit but I luv the flex and light weight of it. I don't regret this modification.

Have used mine a lot since made small upgrades to it.. Definitely was a great buy and am very happy with it. I often use it with a heavy vise on top of it or just as a nice welding table.

Thank you for your feedback.. Have to respectfully disagree.. I didn't hide the fact that I was not a professional / experienced TIG user... I believe our review is pertinent to many first time welders / buyers as it reflects that level of user reviewing it.. Last given the types of welding I did with this showing an inexperienced 1st time tig user could do that work is a review in itself .. IMO.. but again thanks for your opinion

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Yes although nice to get a professional's input, this machine is not aimed at the pro, so nice to see how it interfaces with the beginner and how it meets his expectations.

Different menus (settings) are available depending on what mode you are in.. Use the far right top area to select either Pulse/Tig(non-pulse)/MMA(stick). Then when in each of those use the menu selection button on the far left.. as you press it the light will move across each of the available settings for that mode.. It will be at one that it was at when unit was turned off or mode was changed so you may have to keep pressing it to get it to come around again to what you want to set - very first is pre-flow, very last led light is post flow, lights in-between are up slope min max down slope etc..

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Thank you. I have successfully gotten the welder to start, ramp up and pulse... but i cant get it to STOP. Except t osnap off and then the gas cuts off. I want to push a button, have it ramp down and then post flow. How you YOU do it? press start button, weld and then what?

2T and 4T are separate from pulse/tig/mma .. there is a separate toggle for those modes.. When in 2T one presses and holds the trigger. It automatically does all the functions. In 4T one needs to press then release then press again and release again to move to end function.. It sounds like either you have no post or you have it set to none or almost none.. When I do stainless I have it set to up to 10 and it goes through a lot of Argon but it needs to be on as long as the metal is still red (metal or tungsten tip). If quick or very thin SS I set it half that likewise its a lot less for sheet metal or just tacking.. IF it is on 2T and Tig you still should be able to set the post flow but not alot of the other settings.. if you set it long and it doesn't keep running after you release trigger then it sounds like a malfunction.

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 have they offered you a job to rewrite their manual ? ;) Thank you for your help.

LOL .. no but having gone through the same 'what' was glad to pass along the learning.. enjoy ... its a great little welder

Each time / project may change what the settings need to be .. the type of weld ( butt, lap, tee, angle), the amount of metal being welded, the surface welding on (due to heat transfer), the grade of stainless (304, 316, 409), and of course the thickness.. You mention caliber # 30 .. is that the same as .30 in / 7.6 mm?

The design and the material (though that could be considered part of the design).. Not sure if its specs for or who was making the cover but they corrode and even without seem to leak.. I am always scared with some of the tiny bolts they use here and there.. I use a torque wrench and set it below then creep up on what it should be but still am worried.. perhaps the bolts like the cover just aren't up to what they are rated for.. Sometimes I just choke up on a short wrench to get it snugged down.. Also need to be careful using liquids / pastes on bolts as they can change the force used which then can make it snap sooner (anti-seize/locktite/etc).. they have charts for adapting torque readings if using them.

The part # for the Crankshaft was 9-360-4000-6123 . I worked with Scat eng/tech/sales directly.. Thomas was great and ended up piecing together all the best parts at the best price including balancing it.. The pistons ended up with were KB316 as they work with type of combustion chamber on a 5.9 magnum.. Got the bearings/rods too as part of the pkg. Parts and personel may have changed that was Aug 2020 but that is what it was then.

When I ordered mine they didn't have other one showing so didn't think that they just might have wrong picture.. Glad fix worked for you.. I am still very happy with them and with this table.. I've used it for welding but also for lots of other fabrication.. I was surprised how easily it carries the weight of my 7" jaw vise plus not moving while I was sawing pieces of pipe I had in it.. I also love and use the height adjustments and/or tilt to be able to get comfortable to weld things..

Can you adjust/change the Tig and or Tig Pulse settings using the menu buttons on the front? You mention up and down work if on handle does the bottom (gas) button work? Make sure the connector(s) from torch fulled seated on machine.. Maybe unplug and re-attach (dirt?) If it is just the top button that starts TIG function try in 2T - 4T - Spot modes.. if it still doesn't work it probably is torch handle (switch).. If under warranty you should be OK to return just the handle..

Have you used or tried it with either? I will be welding Stainless Steel exhaust with it something I have not done yet.. Will post short video of how it does on that..Will be including Solarflux as part of review.

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 yes I sold it to my friend and he is still using it today. I got rid of it because I ended getting a primeweld weld Tig 225x with a Maxcool 3000 TIG torch cooler. You can use that to weld stainless steel exhaust with with lifting set your amps about 43 to 45 amps and it'll weld just fine

Great! Thank you for sharing that for all and the SS settings..

Thank you.. very welcome.. appreciate the feed back as well. Good to know so I can judge what to include or not include in future videos

Congrats..

How do you like it? I'm thinking about getting one of these, but I might go with a dedicated stick welder instead

@@every_thing_wood1251 I would get one TIG is so much better than stick but the stick portion of the welder does work well I've only used it on 110 I'm sure working better on 220

This is a great torch for the price.. More than I will need being a non-professional not welding jobs every day with it.. In our video on making frame scap plates you can see photo of stick welds done with it in the thumbnail for that video.. My friend is a professional and he used it to do them for me saying it was smoothest inverter welder he has used. In exhaust video we posted couple days ago you can see photo of some stainless welding we did in its thumbnail. I've also used it on sheet metal down to 20 ga and up to 1/4 with no issues.. Only thing I am going to change is the torch itself.. I will switch to a lighter more flexible one with a touch switch on it.. that doesn't affect stick though as it uses a different cable but it is a heavy one along with the ground which is what you want for stick welding.

Will do. I have some video but need to add to it prior to making one to upload.. Currently I have a tank full of just argon for our Tig welder which is delaying shooting more of setting up and using this MIG welder.. As far as I am concerned it welds great but I'll cover that and gotchas .. hopefully in a few weeks after I finish welding some stainless and can get a CO2/Argon tank.

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Sounds good. Looking forward to it. I am thinking of getting its stronger 200 amp version.

We went with 160 for thin sheet metal and the dual voltage capability. Thick metals can (should be) welded in multi passes (root then covering) according to many pro's. We have 200 amp stick capability with our TIG and can use that for above 3/8. The duty cycle with 200 may be longer but since we are doing repairs restoration we don't weld for long periods at a time. I looked at videos yesterday and while we have examples I really didn't record setting up and using it. I'll get to that in coming weeks God willing. PS.. We like the 160 as it uses the smaller lighter mig handle vs ones needed for higher amps.. Do not remember which one 200 uses.

Unfortunately life is getting in the way of modifying or using it.. Thanks for the information you provided by opening it up.. My approach, if I can get back to it, will be to use a multimeter or other on/off continuity tester to test what sockets/pins on the end of the torch correspond to which function on the handle.. You may be correct about up and down but unsure if the momentary + - buttons might work with a pedal.. Very welcome .. thank you as well

Update I just read the manual since it showed a pedal.. according to it, the manual adjustment for max will work but the up down will be disabled on panel with the adjustment becoming variable adjustment. via the pedal. It can recognize a pedal? like other welders do.

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 I checked the manual again too and I see that now. I tried emailing them but never got a response back. I did a little more investigating on the 5 pins and I think I have them figured out now and I've seen there are some 5 pin aftermarket pedals on amazon that might work. I will keep you posted

Just wanted to give one last update that the pins I mentioned in my first comment are correct for the arc start switch. I've made little pedal that acts as a start/stop only. I plan on making a torch trigger here soon too. It looks like adjusting the amperage requires a digital signal and i played with the idea of an arduino crammed into a pedal that would allow you to send pulses so you could adjust the amps. I'm just going to use the welder as I have it for now. If I end up keeping it long term then I might give it a shot eventually.

@@seanhawley382 Thank you for the update.. Been doing SS exhaust with original and it just is too stiff , heavy, and will change it when have the funds and time..

Very welcome .. Sounds like I need to open it up and take a look and fix the loose stuff.. Yes switching to a micro switch to trigger the T2/T4 functions will be route I go as well. I thought about using a WP-17 unit (not just swapping the head) but this is a 200amp unit so I am unsure I want to drop down to the 17.. Also I have a WP17 that came with my MIG unit.. I think if (when/if when lol) I can afford it I would jump to a CK like light weight 26 but with an added trigger switch.. Thanks for sharing your insights and thoughts.

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 The only reason I chose the 17 series torch head in lieu of the more robust 26 series torch body is to have a more nimble torch. To me at least most of my tig work is more like surgery insofar as welding goes. LOL The 17 is rated up to 150 amps, a level I seldom use with tig as most of the work I do with it is confined to 130 amps and usually under 100. For my use I finder it easier and faster to use either large transformer based stick and mig machines for the heavier material. Be careful opening the shell, the sheet metal screws have precious little to sink their teeth in. Pretty tight on the backside of the gas fitting. I used a long needle nose ViceGrip in order to hold the nut while tightening the fitting from the outside with a 17mm socket.

Yea .. good points .. and as we said in video its an awesome little stick welder too that's basically a lunchbox LOL take care

Your welcome.. For me I figured most work would be in situations where using a pedal would be very difficult/contorted and everyone seems to say 'be comfortable position" when welding.. Price, size, weight, plus pulse .. yep a fantastic unit for the money IMO.. I will make (will do a video on) adding an adapter between machine and torch to allow turning off the up/down buttons and/or to switch to a lighter torch but those would add a ton of cost to the unit which semi defeats getting the savings on it. Good luck with yours

Thank you.. Tons of work goes into making/editing a video so knowing that they are viewed positively and/or help others is appreciated..

You are very welcome..

You are correct. We contacted them and asked.. same company .. same machine .. different labels/name.. I asked if either was considered to be a different status level but they said no.. unsure why but that's what they choose to do. I had never tig welded before so I learned / am learning on this machine. Once you get a feel for them the adjustments lose their intimadation factor LOL .. read our gotcha's so you don't get bit while learning.. Good luck!

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Yes I watched both videos about it. I believe my first project will probably be fixing a cracked (backrest) cast iron garden bench but I still need to get all of the things that didn't come with welder. I'm also trying to research and find out if Harbor Freight carries any filler rod or electrodes that are suitable for welding cast iron. Seems like trying to find a straightforward answer is allusive, can't seem to find out if 6011, 6013 or 7018 electrodes would be best. Supposedly filler rod with high nickel content works good but they're expensive.

Wow .. starting out on one of the difficult materials to weld... big issue with cast (3 types of) is pre-heating and post heating (keeping it hot) to prevent cracking ... I haven't done it .. good luck..

Thank you very much!

No I have not. It definitely shouldn't immediately shut off as even ones without adjustment ability normally run for a short set amount to protect the tungsten. This model allows for a large range of adjustments including allowing a long post flow which I have used in the past.. Is it that it doesn't show the time changing when you use the menu/knob or is it that no matter what you set it to it shuts off quickly (immediately)? I have a review and examples of using it in the works but its a lot to edit and I just haven't had the time.. I did get this model though specifically because one can set every parameter.. It does depend on mode as to what can be set.

@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Yes, regardless of the time setting, post flow is not working. I was set on standard tig and tried 2T and 4T modes. Same result. Thanks for the info.

Two other things ..1) see if it will work in pulse mode.. 2) try using the gas flow button on the bottom of the torch handle. Does the solenoid work when you press and hold it? While not a fix it can allow you to weld by manually pressing that to create post flow (emergency patch of sorts)

Sorry to hear that but thanks for alerting others to your situation. They worked well for us and another person we know that ordered from them. We got ours before all the supply chain and pandemic nonsense. We also opted in for joining their network. Maybe neither of these matter but just FYI in case that is the issue(s).Thanks again for your heads up.. Have you tried calling their support number? Also the site says send them photos of damage to support to receive label for sending back to them.

Thanks hope its helpful. Due to Covid and life while we have been doing work on this we are behind on editing and posting .. including SS headers & exhaust to Cats build.

Yes - sorry I should have put that in video. I can add it then upload modified one, but for now - I purchased it from Summit for $88 (Performance Tool) PT Universal Camshaft Bearing Installation/Removal Kit WMB-W89220

Thank you. This morning went through and relabeled videos taken of engine disassembly. They turned out fairly well so will not need much editing. They will go in another playlist (disassembly). We also began taking a series of videos on the block cleaning process and prepping for the rebuild part.