Review Hzxvogen HBT-2000Pro-SD 200A TIG Welder Features/Setup/Operation/Examples
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- In this video we review the Hzxvogen HBT-2000Pro-SD a 200amp TIG welder to use on DIM DIY projects. This welder does Pulse Tig, HF Tig, and MMA. We go over all the manual controls. We cover setting it up, adjustments on it, what we like about it - along with gotcha's we found. We show various examples of how it welded on different thickness metal in both TIG and MMA on clean and pitted metal. We even review the user manual.
Intro
Quick Overview Features
Initial Setup Welder
Locating Welder / Air Flow
Hose Connections / 1st Gotcha
Connecting Main Cables /5 pin
Connecting Cables Torch/MMA/Ground
Overview of Cables
Menu Operation - Features Available
Button Controls - Torch Adjustments
Button Controls - How to they work
Torch Buttons - 2nd Gotcha
Examples of Welding
Bead Examples
Spot / Tacks - 19/14/12ga
Seam Welds - 12/10ga
Tack Welds - .250 on 110V
Setup MMA / Stick - .250 on 220V
MMA Welds - .250 on 220V
Final Review
Gotcha's
Pro's / Cons
Star Rating
Bonus: User Manual Overview / Review
P.S. - We never used a TIG welder before this one. In fact we had never TIG welded at all. We had a friend that welds all the time use it on heavy 1/4" plate using MMA mode and included his remarks on it as well.
P.P.S. - Information in videos can be affected by changes made to features, price, etc. by the manufactures, sellers, time, etc. impacting accuracy of any information contained in this video.This channel cannot guarantee or assume responsibility of information provided within this video because of this..
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Based on your review if the HBT2000Pro Tig Welder, I decided finally to order one. $249 in Canada, but that's no surprise. Looking forward to watching the rest of your reviews. I especially liked you "Gotcha" comments. Very well done. Once you know there is or may be a glitch with the device, you have the choice of moving on or dealing with it. Deal breaker or not, It's up to you. Keep up the good work.
Thanks .. gotcha's are part of am I wasting my money or heck I can live with that for the price. The real surprise is that it is an awesome stick welder too that's light and easy to take anywhere.
Thanks for the “real review” i have been eyeballing one for about a year. I have the HBM2280 mig/multi function and like the size of this tig unit. I especially like the pulsed tig option for sheet metal work. The Tig Torch is probably gonna be annoying but i hate using a foot pedal. I love my cheap hbm2280 fantastic unit for the money. So kinda makes sense to get this for Tig work.
Your welcome.. For me I figured most work would be in situations where using a pedal would be very difficult/contorted and everyone seems to say 'be comfortable position" when welding.. Price, size, weight, plus pulse .. yep a fantastic unit for the money IMO.. I will make (will do a video on) adding an adapter between machine and torch to allow turning off the up/down buttons and/or to switch to a lighter torch but those would add a ton of cost to the unit which semi defeats getting the savings on it. Good luck with yours
Great video with lots of personal insight, thank you.
I had a couple of tig welders already but bought this one because it was such a great deal considering all of the features this unit has. You're right about the torch handle, lots of bells and whistles you don't need to be packing on the handle. A tig torch should be light, small, and nimble. This one is definitely not. I'll be replacing the torch head with a small WP-17 unit that accepts the same consumables. I'll add a small on/off micro switch in order to initiate the arc and gas, this will be light and simple and also very low in cost.
I had the same issue with the gas fitting on the front of the machine being loose, made it impossible to remove the line. I opened the unit up in order to tighten the retaining nut for the gas fitting and am glad I had a peak inside. Both power connections at the back of the Dinse connectors inside the machine were lose. The gas line connection on the solenoid actuated gas valve was also lose and a heavy gauge power terminal on the main circuit board had not been trimmed properly and had almost worn through the protective plastic insulator sheet placed between the back side of the board and the outer shell/can. Everything else looked great but it won't hurt to have a look just to confirm that.
Great machine though and I am glad I scooped up this bargain. Thanks again for the video!
Very welcome .. Sounds like I need to open it up and take a look and fix the loose stuff..
Yes switching to a micro switch to trigger the T2/T4 functions will be route I go as well. I thought about using a WP-17 unit (not just swapping the head) but this is a 200amp unit so I am unsure I want to drop down to the 17.. Also I have a WP17 that came with my MIG unit.. I think if (when/if when lol) I can afford it I would jump to a CK like light weight 26 but with an added trigger switch..
Thanks for sharing your insights and thoughts.
@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 The only reason I chose the 17 series torch head in lieu of the more robust 26 series torch body is to have a more nimble torch. To me at least most of my tig work is more like surgery insofar as welding goes. LOL
The 17 is rated up to 150 amps, a level I seldom use with tig as most of the work I do with it is confined to 130 amps and usually under 100. For my use I finder it easier and faster to use either large transformer based stick and mig machines for the heavier material.
Be careful opening the shell, the sheet metal screws have precious little to sink their teeth in.
Pretty tight on the backside of the gas fitting. I used a long needle nose ViceGrip in order to hold the nut while tightening the fitting from the outside with a 17mm socket.
Yea .. good points .. and as we said in video its an awesome little stick welder too that's basically a lunchbox LOL take care
A great video accompanied by a very thorough commentary - much appreciated!
Thank you.. very welcome.. appreciate the feed back as well. Good to know so I can judge what to include or not include in future videos
Any update now? Is the machine still doing fine? Mine have a problem now with the spot function sometime even if there is HF theres no arc i have to turn the machine off and on
No problems. Still using it as a TIG and as a portable stick welder. I however did replace the Tig torch early on to a lighter flexible one with a simple trigger tab on it.. only advice is to make sure all connections are clean and secure including ground. you probably have done that but in case thought would mention.. Just unscrewing and reattaching cables can help with hiccups.
Excellent friend review of the team. I wanted to know if you can help me with the necessary parameters to weld stainless steel sheet of caliber # 30, in the equipment you used in this video. Thank you very much.
Each time / project may change what the settings need to be .. the type of weld ( butt, lap, tee, angle), the amount of metal being welded, the surface welding on (due to heat transfer), the grade of stainless (304, 316, 409), and of course the thickness.. You mention caliber # 30 .. is that the same as .30 in / 7.6 mm?
What rod sticks/electrodes should I buy for a car steel?
Not a simple answer. It depends on thickness (plus same to same thickness), condition of metal (rust etc), use (structural vs patch panel), type of metal (cold rolled, hot, stainless, 2 dissimilar types), and settings one is using at the time (pulse or not, amps, etc). I use both the stick and the tig operations of this welder.. which adds more choices / decisions to make.. Simple rule is match diameter of filler to thickness of metal so melt at same rate.. Same for tungsten .. close to size of rod / part thickness but that just starting point.. Always test and set up .. if metal is not new then may vary in thickness (rust too).. which impacts what rod/filler/stick to use.
Puede soldar aluminio en tig?, tanto lamina Delgado y grueso
Nada. Es solo DC, por lo que no puede TIG de aluminio. No. It is only DC so can not Tig aluminum
Good info, thank you!
You are very welcome..
I know what welder you have you can get a pedal for a primeweld Tig-225x or a AHP alpha Tig 200 and will plug in and work on it I think it is like a $100 for the pedal.
Have you used or tried it with either? I will be welding Stainless Steel exhaust with it something I have not done yet.. Will post short video of how it does on that..Will be including Solarflux as part of review.
@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 yes I sold it to my friend and he is still using it today. I got rid of it because I ended getting a primeweld weld Tig 225x with a Maxcool 3000 TIG torch cooler. You can use that to weld stainless steel exhaust with with lifting set your amps about 43 to 45 amps and it'll weld just fine
Great! Thank you for sharing that for all and the SS settings..
Could someone help me please, I bought one of this machine and I try to use in TIG mode, but the digital torch doesn't work only up/down amps buttons working. Then I try in MMA , it worked very nice. Please reply if you have any idea about this issues
Can you adjust/change the Tig and or Tig Pulse settings using the menu buttons on the front? You mention up and down work if on handle does the bottom (gas) button work? Make sure the connector(s) from torch fulled seated on machine.. Maybe unplug and re-attach (dirt?) If it is just the top button that starts TIG function try in 2T - 4T - Spot modes.. if it still doesn't work it probably is torch handle (switch).. If under warranty you should be OK to return just the handle..
I cannot find any information on the pulse parameter. What the low setting and the high?
That can be found in the "Operation" section of user guide/manual. There are two parameters.
The 'Pulse Frequency' is from 0.5 to 200Hzy. This is cycles per second which is a known based on what you set the menu to. By that I mean if you set it to 1 cycle per second then it is going to be 1 cycle per second. If you like to watch strobe lights you can crank it all the way up to 200 but it still will be pulsing at the 200 per second rate.
The second parameter is the 'Pulse Duty' rate which is variable from 5% to 95%. It is not as simple though. It is a % so it varies based on your other setting(s).
An analogy might how many times you stomp on the gas/petrol pedal per second is your pulse frequency. How long you hold it down and how far you let up on it between stomps is your pulse duty. ..
IMO getting it right is getting right for you and for what your welding.. One can weld at a faster or slower rate or raise or lower amperage by playing with the two settings.. Kind of like welding position .. its where you feel and can work comfortably. Like all other welding its best to get set up on test pieces of the same stuff one is welding.. You can get into a rhythm and keep heat down and/or time using filler rod..
Thank's a lot I think I will buy it! Looks that it can last as long as a miller or lincoln the way I will use it. Sheet metal only! The only flaw I will get it's dont weld AC! Like the HVT250P ac dc!
You are very welcome.. Originally my intent included AC Tig welders but the only time it really is needed is for Aluminum. The difference in cost versus how often I might do that made this welder the hands down choice. I do, surprised me, use the MMA stick side of this welder a fair amount.. it is so light and easy to transport and welds heavy steel/stainless easily with its smooth power. I ended up not liking the European style Tig torch itself. I ditched that and use a light weigh flexible handle with simple trigger on it now. That modification may have made the total price closer to an AC unit but I luv the flex and light weight of it. I don't regret this modification.
Just got one
Congrats..
How do you like it? I'm thinking about getting one of these, but I might go with a dedicated stick welder instead
@@every_thing_wood1251 I would get one TIG is so much better than stick but the stick portion of the welder does work well I've only used it on 110 I'm sure working better on 220
This is a great torch for the price.. More than I will need being a non-professional not welding jobs every day with it.. In our video on making frame scap plates you can see photo of stick welds done with it in the thumbnail for that video.. My friend is a professional and he used it to do them for me saying it was smoothest inverter welder he has used. In exhaust video we posted couple days ago you can see photo of some stainless welding we did in its thumbnail. I've also used it on sheet metal down to 20 ga and up to 1/4 with no issues.. Only thing I am going to change is the torch itself.. I will switch to a lighter more flexible one with a touch switch on it.. that doesn't affect stick though as it uses a different cable but it is a heavy one along with the ground which is what you want for stick welding.
Hi! Any update on the torch upgrade? Do you know which pins on the connector correspond to each function on the handle yet? I scored one of these welders used for dirt cheap but it didn't come with the original torch so I'm having trouble mapping out the pins. I opened up the case and it looks like from the main plug three of the five wires go to one connector and two go to another connector. I'm guessing its the 2 pins that are the on/off for the torch??? Looking at the panel from the front it would be the pins around 2 o-clock and 4 o-clock.
My goal is to use a regular torch with either a handle trigger or a little foot switch. I think using a pedal to adjust the amps would simply adjust through the whole range of the machine. I don't think there is a way to set the amps on the panel and then use a pedal to modulate within that set range :( Maybe I'm wrong though???? Please tell me I'm wrong haha!
Thanks so much!
Unfortunately life is getting in the way of modifying or using it.. Thanks for the information you provided by opening it up.. My approach, if I can get back to it, will be to use a multimeter or other on/off continuity tester to test what sockets/pins on the end of the torch correspond to which function on the handle..
You may be correct about up and down but unsure if the momentary + - buttons might work with a pedal..
Very welcome .. thank you as well
Update I just read the manual since it showed a pedal.. according to it, the manual adjustment for max will work but the up down will be disabled on panel with the adjustment becoming variable adjustment. via the pedal. It can recognize a pedal? like other welders do.
@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 I checked the manual again too and I see that now. I tried emailing them but never got a response back. I did a little more investigating on the 5 pins and I think I have them figured out now and I've seen there are some 5 pin aftermarket pedals on amazon that might work. I will keep you posted
Just wanted to give one last update that the pins I mentioned in my first comment are correct for the arc start switch. I've made little pedal that acts as a start/stop only. I plan on making a torch trigger here soon too. It looks like adjusting the amperage requires a digital signal and i played with the idea of an arduino crammed into a pedal that would allow you to send pulses so you could adjust the amps. I'm just going to use the welder as I have it for now. If I end up keeping it long term then I might give it a shot eventually.
@@seanhawley382 Thank you for the update.. Been doing SS exhaust with original and it just is too stiff , heavy, and will change it when have the funds and time..
I have this welder and I cannot figure out for the life of me how to get it to ramp down and post flow. The Amazon supplied manual is not the one you review but the machine is identical. Do pray tell tell us what you use for 2t VS 4t pulse tig to get it to ramp down and post flow? I have my duty cycle and period at 50% and 0.9seconds and that works great. But I press stop & nothing happens
Different menus (settings) are available depending on what mode you are in.. Use the far right top area to select either Pulse/Tig(non-pulse)/MMA(stick). Then when in each of those use the menu selection button on the far left.. as you press it the light will move across each of the available settings for that mode.. It will be at one that it was at when unit was turned off or mode was changed so you may have to keep pressing it to get it to come around again to what you want to set - very first is pre-flow, very last led light is post flow, lights in-between are up slope min max down slope etc..
@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Thank you. I have successfully gotten the welder to start, ramp up and pulse... but i cant get it to STOP. Except t osnap off and then the gas cuts off. I want to push a button, have it ramp down and then post flow. How you YOU do it? press start button, weld and then what?
2T and 4T are separate from pulse/tig/mma .. there is a separate toggle for those modes.. When in 2T one presses and holds the trigger. It automatically does all the functions. In 4T one needs to press then release then press again and release again to move to end function..
It sounds like either you have no post or you have it set to none or almost none.. When I do stainless I have it set to up to 10 and it goes through a lot of Argon but it needs to be on as long as the metal is still red (metal or tungsten tip). If quick or very thin SS I set it half that likewise its a lot less for sheet metal or just tacking.. IF it is on 2T and Tig you still should be able to set the post flow but not alot of the other settings.. if you set it long and it doesn't keep running after you release trigger then it sounds like a malfunction.
@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 have they offered you a job to rewrite their manual ? ;) Thank you for your help.
LOL .. no but having gone through the same 'what' was glad to pass along the learning.. enjoy ... its a great little welder
What is the hose size? Diameter?
I can measure it .. later today. Assume you mean the gas inlet hose from cylinder to back of unit? I seem to recall 7mm but will check. Hopefully I have a left over piece as I don't want to disconnect it.. If I don't I can measure OD of it.
Didn't have to measure.. Hose had info printed on outside.. It is 1/4" ID Lot# 1377190-68 708289468787 200 ft
@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Many thanks!
@@mladenenglang You are welcome
If you have never used a tig welder then you are not the right person to be reviewing one
Thank you for your feedback.. Have to respectfully disagree.. I didn't hide the fact that I was not a professional / experienced TIG user... I believe our review is pertinent to many first time welders / buyers as it reflects that level of user reviewing it.. Last given the types of welding I did with this showing an inexperienced 1st time tig user could do that work is a review in itself .. IMO.. but again thanks for your opinion
@@lars-dimdiy-howtos464 Yes although nice to get a professional's input, this machine is not aimed at the pro, so nice to see how it interfaces with the beginner and how it meets his expectations.