Відео

The 3 is the neutral light. The 5 is for the turn signals

Thanks for sharing, good idea!.

Sorry, it was made by someone producing it on demand. As far as I know, It's not available any more. Check this video description. There are links to the person that made the device. Maybe he can make them again. Personally, healtech makes a similar product that's probably better and has support.. It's in the description.

They had close to 100k on them so I just changed them. I had them when I bought the bike.

No real reason other than I did not have the money at the time to do both. After the upgrade, the frontend handled much better. I'm sure the springs would make it even better. I'm not getting a lot of sag and I have not moved them from the stock k-tech settings.

sounds like it might be worn. Couldn't hurt to be replaced.

Hello, I showed the OEM bulbs at 11:18 and the upgraded hid headlights at 17:44.

I'm ok, without saying too much personal info, changes are in my familys future, the next video may be from a garage of an RV.

Hello, good idea. Not sure if that would affect dwell timing. I think there are some devices made for this purpose in custom automotive applications. Don't know much about them.

Yeah I know my old Honda cars with a distributor, switch the coil primary using an ICM which is switched by the ECU. I'm sure it looks a lot like a SSR that I've seen in industrial applications.

There is a section in the video showing a picture with circles around the adjustments. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a camera man. With both hands busy, my hands blocked the adjusting. Did not notice until later. That's why the picture.

Hello, check the description section of this video. It has the LEDs used and where to get them. The links for the dial plates are also in the description. There from Poland. Yes the original dial plates in my opinion were ugly. They also had bubbles in the paint. I also soldered a clear led into the circuit board to fill the hole in the lower part of the tach plate. It's just a dummy led, it does not light up. It's for a factory security system that's in the UK bike that we in the US don't have. The circuit board does have the traces for it without the components. No worries on which direction the led goes, just solder it to the height needed. If you replace the plates, use two spoons under the needle to get it off without troubles. Make sure the shaft does not turn and replace the needle in the exact same position. You may want to do a test run with a gps to verify speed before reassembling the front of the bike. Note these plates are plastic, don't over tighten the screws. I made that mistake. Over time the plastic rippled slightly around the screws probably from engine heat. Thanks Mike.

Yes that's correct

Hello, you're right, I read the wrong measurement on the diagram. It says 28nm, which converts to 248in lbs, or 21ft lbs.

Hello, the OEM pads are preferred. However I have been using EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads without issues. I have not used much else since this is what the local shop carried. Thanks, Mike

Hello and thanks for your speedy reply. Best and HAPPY HOLIDAY time. @@mikesfjrcorner7129

Motul 7100 full synthetic 10w-40. Thanks, mike

@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks so much! I put 4 Liters of Motul 5100 10 w 40 in mine, I guess it was a mistake? What is the difference between the two? Should I replace it?

no, 5100 is the semi-synthetic and the 7100 is the full-synthetic. Either works fine. If you want to go to the full synthetic, do it at the next interval. At least you have a really good oil in there. Mike

Tks Mike , my heart rate goes down (good for a 70 year old guy) to a more relaxed state to to concerns now with the clutch. A Happy new year to you from a German RP28 rider . @@mikesfjrcorner7129

Hello, yes I agree, my previous owner was using rotella. Used it the first time, didn't like, changed to motu, made a world of difference, never looked back . Mostly used OEM filter.

Thanks

No problem

Your welcome, mike

Sounds like a stuck injector. If you had a seal leak, that would just be a vacuum leak. All plugs are on the correct injector? The injector could be firing at the wrong cycle.

I received it as I removed them because I made marks each time

I'm still thinking about a stuck injector. Maybe check the spark plug boots for connections. Maybe It's possible one cylinder is not firing and the unburnt fuel winds up in the exhaust. The plug boots screw onto the wire. What I've done before is: unscrewed them from the wire, cut off a 1/4" of wire and rescrew the cap back onto the wire.

hello I think it's not the right path to follow it's the bike it would run on 3 cylinders that's not it because the engine speed is good I assume that it is not under pressure which means that the pump has gasoline sending in gasoline content to have what do you think?

Somehow fuel has to jump from injector to exhaust without burning. So there are a few saneriaos. 1. If an injector is stuck open or damaged, it could dump fuel into the cylinder either while sitting and/or running, causing unburnt fuel to pump into the exhaust. 2. If the injector is connected to the wrong plug, it would spray at the wrong time. 3. If the cylinder is not firing for some reason, then unburnt fuel will be pumped into the exhaust. 4. Clogged passageways in the throttle body or bad seal on the injector causing the cylinder to misfire. You can check the temperature of each header. If one is lower than the rest then that cylinder could be misfirng. Then go from there to figure out why. A cylinder could sound like it's running ok but burning way rich, dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust. Was the bike running before work and what was done to the bike. I would backtrack your steps. If anybody has any other thoughts I haven't thought of please chime in. Thanks, mike

Hello, In the triple tree the fork sits just above the clamps about an 1/8" or a few millimeters. Just make them the same height. Rotation is not an issue as once they are installed. The bottom of the fork can rotate to line up with the axle. Hope this helps, mike

@@mikesfjrcorner7129 so the lower part of the axles rotate, so it doesn't matter which way the top is clamped in?

Yes that's correct.

Your welcome, mike

Hello, I have the 05 gen 1. They changed the axle on the gen2 and forward.

Hello, the 2005 used Yamaha 5GH-13440-20-00. This is what I use. If I'm in a pinch, I've used k&n kn-48, mobil 1 m1-110, ac-delco pf-2057. The fram version is more restrictive. Hope this helps.

I come from a background of instructional videos. It's better to tell somebody each step so it's clear.

I have the service manual, it's torqued to below their spec. I was going slow this time, so it looked like I tightened harder than it really was.

This was a tip from k-tech in one of their videos to help prevent shifting of the cup in the bottom and also makes the assembly a lot easier. Let me explain. What you don't see is: during videoing I did assemble as a stack and slide the tube over. That's how I broke the valve. What you have to do to assemble the way you are describing is: remember if you put the cup in the end of the tube, it will just drop through. So, you have to hold the tube, then slide the cartridge into the tube, slide the cup into the tube and onto the top of the cartridge. Now lower the base onto the stack and get it to drop into a ridge on the cup. Now while holding the hole assembly, put the bolt in and finger tighten with an allen wrench. Well, the first time it went ok, but it was out of camera frame while shooting. So I did it a second time. However, during the process of holding the stack and putting the bolt in, the cup shifted off the ridge on the cup without me seeing it. When I started to tighten the bolt down, the lower valve snapped. I had very little pressure applied, with the cup not being in place correctly, the lower valve twisted and snapped before it was even close to being tight. Assembling the way k-tech suggested, allows the cup to align easier. Your not trying to hold everything together. The Grease helps in seating the cup into the bottom and also helps with accidental shifting of the cup. It also allows for better inspection of the cup after assembly. The little bit of grease will eventually dissolve. Mike.

Hello, thank you for the offer and gracious comments. Yes, I can do it. Are you located near NJ. Are we talking just replacing the bushings or upgrading the forks like I did? Email me at fjr1300gps@gmail.com to talk further. Thank You , Mike

Glad it helped. Thanks.

Hello, I ran iridium's when I first got the bike and at the time I had vibration and rough idling. I figured out the problem was due to bad coils. After the coils were changed the engine smoothed out. A short time later I changed the oil and plugs back to stock. So I don't have a very long track record with the iridium plugs when the engine was running correctly. Right now I have stock plugs and I'm way past due, like twice the interval. I'm not feeling any problems. In fact it is running better than it ever did. I did the same thing, changed all the fluids, valve check, lubed and cleaned drive shaft, triple tree, rear swing arm. and eventually used motul oil. The previous owner had shell rotella. I used it for several oil changes. It seemed to be noisy on the top end. When I changed to motul 7100, it was like night and day. I no longer hear the valves. I'm thinking maybe I'll give the iridium's a second chance.

@@mikesfjrcorner7129 I got the iridiums and will likely change the plugs this weekend. The bike seems to run pretty smooth, but I know that worn plugs seemed to effect the bottom end on many engines I've had in the past. I don't know if mine were changed. 8000 seems like a very short life interval for plugs, which is what the manual recommends if I read it right.

Yep, it's always good to replace them. I just got very busy and did not change them when I should have. Let me know how they compare. Thanks, Mike