Why I don't recommend the COP or "Coil On Plug" conversion for the Gen 1 Yamaha FJR1300.
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2019
- My experience and thoughts on the Coil on Plug conversion for the FJR that was discussed on a forum.
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Maybe use a solid state relays to switch 12v to each pair of coils? That way you're not going to damage the driver circuit
Hello, good idea. Not sure if that would affect dwell timing. I think there are some devices made for this purpose in custom automotive applications. Don't know much about them.
Yeah I know my old Honda cars with a distributor, switch the coil primary using an ICM which is switched by the ECU. I'm sure it looks a lot like a SSR that I've seen in industrial applications.
What if you just added a 1 ohm resistor in series to each COP primary and attached it to ground such that there was no feed through?
Hello, let me see if understanding you correctly, you want to put a one ohm resistor in series with each cop's primary, but I'm not sure what you mean by connecting the resistor to ground as the coils are normally referenced to +12v and any resistance to ground would cause a current draw through the primaries.
What I guessing you mean is to connect each cop positive connection to +12v, then connect the trigger side of each COP to a 1 ohm resistor, then connect the other side of the resistors and the module output together. This would effectively create a path through 2 - 2 ohm cop's in parallel with each other.
However if you put 2 - 2 ohms circuits together, you would effectively get 1 ohm across the entire circuit. Ohm's law formula for a parallel circuit is 1/( (1/R1) + (1/R2))
Since the module is designed for a 2 ohm coil we would still be overloading it.
Let know if this is what you were thinking.
Hope this helps.
on my 2004 with 26K miles FJR I replaced the battery and it started and ran fine. I then washed it, maybe it got a little too wet, and then started it. Now its running like crap and vibrating, I can tell its not hitting on all cylinders. The engine light is on, shows code 34, No. 2/3 cylinder ignition coil. I've got the Haynes manual, and thinking about trying to fix it myself. Any advice? How difficult is it?
Hello, it's not too diffucult. Remove the right fairing and check that 2/3 coil. Make sure there is good connections at the coil primary and at the boots. The boot is screwed onto the wire. You can unscrew the boot, cut a 1/2” of plug wire and screw the boot back onto the plug wire. Also clean the spring and resistor inside the boot.
Make sure the ECU connector is tight and clean. Check connectors in the engine compartment that they are clean and tight. I'm not sure if the primary connections actually go through any connectors, or if they are directly connected to the ECU.
At the age of our bikes it would not be uncommon for a coil to go bad. High voltage does funny things. Especially around moisture.
Hope this helps
what's the goal in doing this? is it just that its more efficient in using those coil packs over the original OEM coil? i have Gen III? and that has the coilpacks...now those sit right on top of the valve cover, get pretty hot, one of mine failed at 33k miles and they're about 80 bucks a piece...so x 4 it gets high pretty quick...whereas before you just have one OEM coil and it sits away from the hot engine, its probably more reliable.
There is a thread on the fjr forum where somebody did this mod. I was in need of a new coil, I could not source a new one. Thought I give it a try. The engine did not run as smooth. Then I thought about how it was being implimented and offered my theory on why this mod should not be done.
I had a question about the coils on my generation one and I wanted to reach out to you direct can you let me know how I can do that.
It’s about the secondary side of the coil and how to measure this.
Hello, remove the resistors from inside of both sparkplug caps connected to the coil by unscrewing the inside of the caps. Then measure between the inside of the both caps. An alternative would be to unscrew the caps from the wires and measure between the wires.
MikesFJRCorner thank you, I did have a look at the resistor in the plug but didn’t think to remove before measuring. I had 34.4 K ohms on 2&3 and 131.8 K ohms on 1&4 but both measured with resistors in place. Is there any thoughts on what I measured with resistors in place. (I have a rough idle and need to throttle up at low RPM’s on launch- cooler temps on exhaust for 1&4).
@@Leggemann 131.8k is high. Remove all resistors and compare them. Then measure the coils. If the coils measure different, then unscrew the caps from the wire and measure the wires directly. I'm thinking you may have a bad connection in the cap or between the cap and wire. If the coils measure high at the wire then the coil is bad. If not then, Trim a 1/4" of the wire. Clean the caps, resistors and springs, then measure again.
I think the resistors are about 5k each. I'm not sure without opening up mine and measuring. I do know the coil is about 20k so if you add 2 5k resistors you come up with what you had in cyl 2-3.
You don’t wire them in series. Wire them parallel, and they act just like the oem.
The primary is only 1 ohm. If you put them in parallel you get 0.5 ohm, too low for the ecu. The ecu wants 2 ohm.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Hello.
I made COP system to my FZS 1000.
Coils is from 08 yr. R1. Mitshubishi.
Original coil primary resistance is 2.4 ohm. With COP i get 2.3 OHM. And the bike is not running.😪
When crank over and release starter button bike starts and idles, but not taking throttle. If i slowly give little throttle, rpms raising but lots of bakfire.
Any ideas.?
Hello, if I understand you correctly, each cop is 2.3 ohm. I assume the fzs1000 uses dual coils (1 coil for 2 cylinders). yes those cop's match the resistance of the coils. However when you put them in parallel the restance is diveded by 2. So the 2.3 ohm becomes 1.15 ohm. Two low for the ecu. When you open the throttle it takes more current to keep the spark going. If the restance is two low, it draws more current than the ecu can provide. Careful not to blow up the ecu.
Hope this helps. Thanks 👍
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Each COP is about 1.2 ohm. When i doubled them i get 2.3 ohm of pair primary resistance. But bike won't run..
The scheme i used like this:
i.imgur.com/7wadOKV.png
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 It is possible to make run with these COP.?