After cleaning mine but NOT taking it apart, it is STILL sticking. Riding season is just about over now so I will do it right this time... Thanks a bunch!!
Hi Mike, I just followed this procedure successfully to fix my sticking rear brake. Many thanks for the detailed walk-through. This is my first attempt at minor maintenance on the bike and I'm very encouraged to find that I can do it! I feel like the pedal has to be pressed over 1" of travel before the brake light comes on so I'll maybe look into adjusting that someday. But at least there is no more sticking pedal. Thanks again for taking time to make this video.
Glad you got it working okay. I would adjust the brake switch, it should be on, slightly before brake pressure. If not it's a safety issue. Don't want somebody coming up on you or even hitting you from the rear. Thanks Mike
My cruise stopped working and the cruise light was flashing. Turned out the rear brake lever was sticking just enough to keep the brake light on and mess up the CC. I had 37k on my 2016 FJR and that shaft was grimy. Gave it a good cleaning and lubed it up. Thanks for posting this Mike.
Thanks you SO much for this. Had the same problem with my FJR, and I was thinking broken return spring or buggered cylinder. You showed how easy it was to remove that bracket and clean/lube the critical area. Thanks!
I really wish I had found this video before I spent 4hrs messing with the rear caliper and attempting to bleed it. Ended up clearing all the fluid out of it, flushing and refilling it and still have the same issue. I guess I’ll try this on my next day off… really frustrating.
Thank you "a" Mike :-) I have the same problem with my Blue 05 model. So I have wondered what made the brake hanging. Now i will repair it (as it is on winter holidays in my living room....). Thank you also for the tip with the inspection cam! Not easy to see all small and hidden details (I'm a 1960 model..). PS: Why did you change the Echaust's? Did you get any more than sound...? Best Reg
Thanks, the tone of the engine is much better. That alone makes the bike feel better. I also have a dent in one of the headers which I believe causes some vibration at higher rpm's. That cylinders vacuum is lower at higher rpm's, so there may be a difference in flow on that cylinder. Changing the exhaust made a difference by reducing some back pressure. I've bought a delkevic header to replace the oem header to see if there is an improvement and prove or disprove my theory. Later this winter I should be able to resume videos and this would be one of many new videos.
Thanks for your video. Can I point out that your retightening Torque is wrong. It should be 22ft lbs, not 13 ft lbs. The rear brake master cylinder is 13 ft lbs .
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks. I meant the little snake camera that you examined the brakes with. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to comments.
Ok, From Ebay. Search "hd otoscope camera". It's a camera for the ear canal, but it's also a short range camera. Not the best quality but it works. You can also search for "Endoscope" there may be higher quality options there.
Take the brakes out of the calipers, clean the pins and all around the piston with brake cleaner. Apply a new brake grease to the pins and reassemble. If that does not fix it, then the caliper piston may have some corrosion. A rebuild kit would be next.
Also, I had my old Honda Interceptor have a problem with the clutch slipping. It's cause was a leaky master cylinder, adding fluid to the system over a few days while released. The next time the lever was pulled, the clutch was overly tight. Released the pressure from the bleed valve. A few days later the same thing happened. Hope this helps :~)
Hi Mike. I cant find a (preferably free) online manual for my 2004 ABS model and need to remove the front fairing. Also have the storage box on the LHS. Do you have a video to assist? Horea
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks Mike, I took all tat off- however I want to take the front fairing off.. around the headlights as to be able to get to the windscreen motor etc..
It's rather difficult. Protect the tank and remove the triple tree. Underneath is two screws that are rounded with no slot. These are tamper proof screws. Cut a flat on each side of the screw head so you can turn them out with a small open end wrench. Or you may be able to cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver. I had the switch fail the next day after a 600 mile week trip. Open it up. One of the wires de-soldered from the terminal where one of the contact plate overheated. one of the contacts plates if I remember correctly is not used. So I just swapped them, cleaned it up and lubed it with some silicone spray. I did not use contact grease as this may have contributed to the failure. dirt combining with the greese. Good luck...
Hi there! We love your videos and would like to include you in an upcoming opportunity with Turtle Wax. Would you please send us a DM either on FB or Instagram if you are interested in learning more? Thank you!
I swear Yamaha cheats out on grease on the entire bike. My FJR headset brake pedal suspension linkage and driveshaft spines were bone dry. Or they just use crappy grease. I expect better from Yamaha
That’s very much! One suggestion: install the brake light switch pin from the inside so that the cotter pin is easier to reinstall the cotter pin.
After cleaning mine but NOT taking it apart, it is STILL sticking.
Riding season is just about over now so I will do it right this time...
Thanks a bunch!!
I had this problem and your video was a great help. It was so easy to follow your steps. Thank you sooo much for posting this!
You're welcome!
Hi Mike, I just followed this procedure successfully to fix my sticking rear brake. Many thanks for the detailed walk-through. This is my first attempt at minor maintenance on the bike and I'm very encouraged to find that I can do it! I feel like the pedal has to be pressed over 1" of travel before the brake light comes on so I'll maybe look into adjusting that someday. But at least there is no more sticking pedal. Thanks again for taking time to make this video.
Glad you got it working okay. I would adjust the brake switch, it should be on, slightly before brake pressure. If not it's a safety issue. Don't want somebody coming up on you or even hitting you from the rear.
Thanks Mike
My cruise stopped working and the cruise light was flashing. Turned out the rear brake lever was sticking just enough to keep the brake light on and mess up the CC. I had 37k on my 2016 FJR and that shaft was grimy. Gave it a good cleaning and lubed it up. Thanks for posting this Mike.
Glad to help. thanks, mike
Thanks you SO much for this. Had the same problem with my FJR, and I was thinking broken return spring or buggered cylinder. You showed how easy it was to remove that bracket and clean/lube the critical area. Thanks!
I had the same problem with my FJR and your video helped me greatly, Thanks Mike!
I really wish I had found this video before I spent 4hrs messing with the rear caliper and attempting to bleed it. Ended up clearing all the fluid out of it, flushing and refilling it and still have the same issue. I guess I’ll try this on my next day off… really frustrating.
Thanks Mike have a good day
Excellent video, Mike. Followed your instructions and fix the problem.
thank you ! I was thinking I had a caliper I needed to rebuild ... I went out side and did your clean up and ..success !
Glad I could help
Thank you "a" Mike :-) I have the same problem with my Blue 05 model. So I have wondered what made the brake hanging. Now i will repair it (as it is on winter holidays in my living room....). Thank you also for the tip with the inspection cam! Not easy to see all small and hidden details (I'm a 1960 model..).
PS: Why did you change the Echaust's? Did you get any more than sound...? Best Reg
Thanks, the tone of the engine is much better. That alone makes the bike feel better. I also have a dent in one of the headers which I believe causes some vibration at higher rpm's. That cylinders vacuum is lower at higher rpm's, so there may be a difference in flow on that cylinder. Changing the exhaust made a difference by reducing some back pressure. I've bought a delkevic header to replace the oem header to see if there is an improvement and prove or disprove my theory. Later this winter I should be able to resume videos and this would be one of many new videos.
Thanks for your video. Can I point out that your retightening Torque is wrong. It should be 22ft lbs, not 13 ft lbs. The rear brake master cylinder is 13 ft lbs .
Hello, you're right, I read the wrong measurement on the diagram. It says 28nm, which converts to 248in lbs, or 21ft lbs.
Exactly what it was, thank you my friend. Looking forward to more
What brand are those pads on your tank?
What is the name of the camera with the light. I wasn't sure what to search for on Amazon. And thanks again for all your videos.
Im using a canon 60d and a neewer rgb panel light.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks. I meant the little snake camera that you examined the brakes with. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to comments.
Ok, From Ebay. Search "hd otoscope camera". It's a camera for the ear canal, but it's also a short range camera. Not the best quality but it works. You can also search for "Endoscope" there may be higher quality options there.
hey Mike I've been having my calipers dragging when released. other than lube the guides any ideas?
Take the brakes out of the calipers, clean the pins and all around the piston with brake cleaner. Apply a new brake grease to the pins and reassemble. If that does not fix it, then the caliper piston may have some corrosion. A rebuild kit would be next.
Also, I had my old Honda Interceptor have a problem with the clutch slipping. It's cause was a leaky master cylinder, adding fluid to the system over a few days while released. The next time the lever was pulled, the clutch was overly tight. Released the pressure from the bleed valve. A few days later the same thing happened. Hope this helps :~)
Hi Mike.
I cant find a (preferably free) online manual for my 2004 ABS model and need to remove the front fairing.
Also have the storage box on the LHS.
Do you have a video to assist?
Horea
Hello, try my HID installation video. It shows how to remove the front fairing. ua-cam.com/video/JDiLjU5ffDQ/v-deo.html
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks Mike, I took all tat off- however I want to take the front fairing off.. around the headlights as to be able to get to the windscreen motor etc..
The video shows taking the front fairing off in order to mount the hid's balast starting at about 23:00 min. into the video.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129
Do you know how to remove the ignition switch on a 2012 FJR?
It's rather difficult. Protect the tank and remove the triple tree. Underneath is two screws that are rounded with no slot. These are tamper proof screws. Cut a flat on each side of the screw head so you can turn them out with a small open end wrench. Or you may be able to cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver.
I had the switch fail the next day after a 600 mile week trip. Open it up. One of the wires de-soldered from the terminal where one of the contact plate overheated. one of the contacts plates if I remember correctly is not used. So I just swapped them, cleaned it up and lubed it with some silicone spray. I did not use contact grease as this may have contributed to the failure. dirt combining with the greese.
Good luck...
Hi there! We love your videos and would like to include you in an upcoming opportunity with Turtle Wax. Would you please send us a DM either on FB or Instagram if you are interested in learning more? Thank you!
I swear Yamaha cheats out on grease on the entire bike. My FJR headset brake pedal suspension linkage and driveshaft spines were bone dry. Or they just use crappy grease. I expect better from Yamaha
Yep, I noticed that too. I just lubed them up with a good grease.