FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vibration, Adjust Engine Balancers, Clean Throttle Body & Replace Seals. (PART 1)
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2018
- When I bought the bike, I had vibration peeks at 3k, 4-4.5k rpm. I tried most of the common methods of fixing the problem (TBS, Unofficial TBS, Spray cleaning of Throttle Body, Torque the Engine Mounts, Plugs, Wires & Coils) to no avail.
I then adjusted the Front Engine Balancer and my 3k vibration was gone. 4k was less but still had another peek at 4.5k.
Since the Rear Engine Balancer was under the Throttle Body, I decided to do other maintenance at the same time.
This video is the complete how to for removing and complete cleaning the Throttle body, Seal replacement on the Injectors, doing the Engine Balancer adjustments and replacing the Water Seals on the Thermostat to Engine Water Pipe.
My theory of a loose Balancer is that the Balancer will vibrate in the space between the teeth and have a resonate frequency based on it's weight and speed in which it turns.
Model: FJR1300A 2005 Generation 1
Front Balancer Specifications: 1 Line clockwise from ~4 inch pounds counterclockwise position.
Rear Balancer Specifications: 2 Lines clockwise from ~4 inch pounds counterclockwise position.
WARNING: Do not turn clockwise beyond the specifications. This may in turn cause the balancer to skip teeth and require visual inspection of the alignment marks.
This video is in three parts:
Part 1 - Disassembly of Fairings, removal of Throttle Body, and adjustment of Engine Balancers.
• FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vib...
Part 2 - Cleaning and Lubing of Throttle Body.
• FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vib...
Part 3 - Installation of Throttle Body and reassembly of Bike, Impressions, Modifications.
• FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vib...
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Great video,advice and procedure Mike - you make it look easy and straightforward- it is always an apprehensive time attempting to remove the engine accessories for the first time..the techniques as you describe are better than the classroom. Thank you
Hey Mike. I'm looking at FJR's and your channel will be a great reference. Thank you!
Very good instruction and video. You should do more! I have the 2005 also, and I do all my own work. Videos like your’s have really helped build my confidence going into some of the more complicated tasks. Also, really helpful seeing what’s ahead in the job as it seems there are lots of mysteries if you haven’t done it before. So thanks!
Hi Mike! I wanted to say a special thank you, because following your video 1 and 3, with the help of a friend I managed to change my starter to my FJR 2003. I encourage you to continue to make great videos.
Thanks. Once I finish some personal business, I can devote time back on the channel. I have many projects to complete, repairs (Dropped the bike on a K turn), maintenance (All fluids including front shocks, valve check), upgrades and modifications (Headers to go with the slip-on's and Fuel controller along with with a Bluetooth fuel ratio monitor).
Mike I like your videos. Thank you. I just got a 05 and your videos are helping me out.
Thanks for posting this video, very useful for 2005 owners!
You're welcome!
So much detail . Thanks again
Thanks, mike.
My vibration is annoyingly around my UK cruising speed of 65-70mph on motorways and dual carriageways.. Never even knew these had counterbalance adjustments for the engine. Eye opener for me. This video has now made me think of doing the front first then see how it goes. Ive done the TBS , torqued mounts, fitted later model thicker footpeg rubbers(Lot better for distance riding), HVMP extra heavy bar ends too. . Thanks for a great video. Subscribed to your channel after watching this.
Another thing maybe to think about is new coils and wires. I had the same vibration and the balancers, coils, and wires were all contributing. Once all possibilities are covered (coils, wires, plugs, balancers, tbs, injectors, tb cleaning), check for sync at 4-5k as well as at idle. It could be off at speed. Try syncing at 4-5k instead. I did the unofficial tbs once everything else was checked or fixed. However, this utbs voids the original settings. I knew the screws were touched by the previous owner so mine were already changed.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Bless you Mike. Thankyou for the reply. You know how annoying that numbing vibe can get. I will keep your advice and see how i get on.
excellent video thanks mike, unfortunately for me, i have to do all of this minus removing the throttle bodies to get to the spedometer connector to fit Gear Indicator on my non ABS 2002 🤢
Might just go the old fashioned route and count lol...
Hi Mike! congratulations for your excellent video, I have to do the same job on my fjr 2003, because I have to change my starter so I would like to know, when you remove the two water hoses connected to the throttle, that there is a lot of liquid that escapes? Thank you for your reply!
Hello, just a little bit. If you have a small cup or rag, place it under the hoses. You can put a bolt into the hose to plug it up while working.
Tanks Mike!
Hi Mike, I went through everything you told me, I noticed a decrease in vibration as I installed X-heavy HVMP to my handlebars, do you think adjusting the rear balancer could help decrease the vibration significantly? Thank you in advance for your answer!
Before doing the rear balancer. Make sure TB is synced, coils are good, TB is clean, engine mount bolts are torqued, etc... This procedure is for once everything else has been done. I might think the rear balancer is lower in the engine and you would feel it more in the feet.
Hi Mike, great video, it is very helpful. Would you know if the counterbalancer adjustment would work for a Gen2 model? I have a 2007 FJR1300AE. Thank you!
Yes they both have them. I would only do it if all other sources of vibration have been addressed. Check the service manual for gen 2 for settings.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thank you!
Mike thank you for this excellent how to. I do however have a question about the front balancer. You say counterclockwise until it tightens, and then after looking again counterclockwise 1 line from the previous noted position.
The picture however shows you go back clockwise from position -6 to -5. Which one is correct?
And on the rear you take 2 lines clockwise instead of 1. Does that have a particular reason?
My wording was a little weird in the video. What i meant was one back from the position that was tight. The same as the diagram. So tighten lightly, and backup the distance of one line.
Here is the text from the service manual ("Tighten the balancer shaft to the specified torque by turning it counterclockwise, and then turn it one scale back on the balancer lever scale (2 on rear balancer). Start the engine and check that there is no abnormal noise coming from the balancer
gear. If noise is abnormal, adjust the gear lash by turning the balancer shaft.").
The torque is 0.4 Nm. That's a light pressure counterclockwise.
On mine, I was noticing a slight whine, so I re-adjusted it to 1 and 1/2.
MikesFJRCorner ok thank you. Did this once on a cbr1000f. Can be a mayor difference indeed!
Thanks Mike , my 08 has the same vibration at 4.5k and worse at 6k. I’ll step by step from your video. Thanks Mike.
An after-market manual calls for a dynamic testing... back & forth between Clatter and Whine. Any thoughts on this?
Yes, If it whine's, then back off on the adjustment. The manual says this as well, but the wording leaves a lot of interpretation. They say, adjust till it sounds normal.
Mike, do you have any video or ideas in adding/changing coolant?
Hello, not at the moment. I have a lot of maintenance to do this winter. so I'll be getting back to making videos soon. I'll have all fluid changes, valve check and more. I'm also adding accessories. I purchased a delkevic header to go with the cans along with a Fuel controller and a bluetooth wideband fuel mixture meter.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks for the fast reply!
Hey Mike I think I went to far when I adjusted my count balancer ,nasty howl, moved 2 notches from start position, can I safely back up one ?
Hello, yes.
Here is the text from the service manual ("Tighten the balancer shaft to the specified torque by turning it counterclockwise, and then turn it one scale back on the balancer lever scale (2 on rear balancer). Start the engine and check that there is no abnormal noise coming from the balancer
gear. If noise is abnormal, adjust the gear lash by turning the balancer shaft.").
The torque is 0.4 Nm. That's a light pressure counterclockwise.
Did you scribe the original position?
Hope this helps.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 yes I did scribe my starting point, and now have backed up one notch. I’ll let you know how I made out. Thx Mike.
Hi Mike, after the adjustment, did the vibration at 4.5k go away?
I had spikes at lower RPMs that went away. At 4.5k I still had it. I've been working to find the problem. Once cleaning, valve timing, and coils have been eliminated, I think the problem with these bikes is over time, the TB mechanical set screws are no longer sinking the TB's at that RPM due to mechanical wear. However, Yamaha has not given us a method to accurately set them.
Hi. I have fjr 1300 date 2006. engine can not boot. error not due to battery. I think like a mechanical error. View my clip
Hi Mike! I recently exchanged my 2003 fjr for a 2013 fjr at 32,000 miles. I had two new michelin pilot road 4 tires installed but the bike has a significant vibration from the underside of my seat to the rear at 4000 rpm. In your opinion could it be the rear balancer? thank you in advance for your answer!
First eliminate things that are part of normal maintenance first. Make sure the throttle body is clean. Make sure the tb sync is balanced at idle. See what's happening with the vacuum at 4000 rpm while checking the tb sync. If it goes out of sync above idle, then the problem is a breathing problem and may be related to a throttle plate screw that may have been moved. This screw is normally not supposed to be touched, but can throw sync out at driving speeds. Make sure the plug boots are tight and coils are good. Believe it or not, torque the engine mounts. They can also contribute. Also make sure the air filter is OEM. I had a aftermarket filter that gave me vibration. Yes there could be some vibration from the balancers. But it's a low milage bike and I don't think that's the source. Maybe if it's only at one rpm.
The source of vibration is difficult to diagnose. 4000 rpm on these engines seem to be the magic number for vibration.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Tanks Mike!
Mike my bike has 32000km , is the engine balancer the last suspect for vibration at 4K. Should I get a throttle body vacuum gauges ordered.
Yes, throttle body sync is the first place to look. Hope this helps.
What happens to the vacuum at 4k. Does it go out of sync. This is where I'd focus. If it does then try syncing at 4k.
Adjusting the balancers won't hurt. This produced a small improvement for me, but did not eliminate it. I found the front balancer spec too tight. It made a whine. I adjusted it closer to to 2 on the front and 2 on the rear. The spec does say to loosen slightly if it sounds abnormal.
One thing I found since this video is, I think these bikes are set too lean. I have a fuel controller from dynatek. When I richen the mixture at low throttle openings, it smoothed out significantly.
Im going to investigate this more in the future. I've heard that getting a power commander and tune really helps these bikes.
I have headers from delkevic to install. I have a dent in header pipe #1. My vacuum is lower at higher rpms on #1. My theory is this dent is interfering with breathing in #1 by lowering the vacuum by restricting the exhaust.
'll use the dynatek with the headers since I have it. During this installation I have a fuel mixture meter to install. Then I can adjust mixture in real time.
Hello, here's my problem. I reassembled the injectors on my fjr 1300 and I end up with gasoline in my exhaust. My question comes from where do you think?
Sounds like a stuck injector. If you had a seal leak, that would just be a vacuum leak. All plugs are on the correct injector? The injector could be firing at the wrong cycle.
I received it as I removed them because I made marks each time
I'm still thinking about a stuck injector. Maybe check the spark plug boots for connections. Maybe It's possible one cylinder is not firing and the unburnt fuel winds up in the exhaust. The plug boots screw onto the wire. What I've done before is: unscrewed them from the wire, cut off a 1/4" of wire and rescrew the cap back onto the wire.
hello I think it's not the right path to follow it's the bike it would run on 3 cylinders that's not it because the engine speed is good I assume that it is not under pressure which means that the pump has gasoline sending in gasoline content to have what do you think?
Somehow fuel has to jump from injector to exhaust without burning. So there are a few saneriaos. 1. If an injector is stuck open or damaged, it could dump fuel into the cylinder either while sitting and/or running, causing unburnt fuel to pump into the exhaust. 2. If the injector is connected to the wrong plug, it would spray at the wrong time. 3. If the cylinder is not firing for some reason, then unburnt fuel will be pumped into the exhaust. 4. Clogged passageways in the throttle body or bad seal on the injector causing the cylinder to misfire.
You can check the temperature of each header. If one is lower than the rest then that cylinder could be misfirng. Then go from there to figure out why.
A cylinder could sound like it's running ok but burning way rich, dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust.
Was the bike running before work and what was done to the bike. I would backtrack your steps.
If anybody has any other thoughts I haven't thought of please chime in.
Thanks, mike
Nobody is going to take you seriously until you get rid of the Taiwan socket set.