Just bought 05 fjr. So thankful you took the time! I was apprehensive about doing tune up etc but not now. My bike smells rich and has erratic throttle under 3k. Going to change all fluids and plugs tb sync. Waiting for service manual to arrive. Thanks again!
Hello, First thks for your videos!! very helpful. I am doing a TBS on my 2007 FJR and I was wondering if the reference cylinder was also #3 for my year? Unfortunately the manual I found for 2007 model does not talk about TBS unlike the 2006 manual. Also I am using the carbtune pro and the metal rod keeps moving up and down making the reading hard. is it normal? Do you have any info on that? Thks for your time.
Your Welcome. Yea, I had the same problem. Get a set of restrictors from Motion Pro (Link Below). Yes. The 07 (GEN2) has a similar TB to the 05 (GEN1). The cable is connected to TB #3, this is the fixed TB that all other TB's are referenced to. Notice which TB the cable is attached to. The other TB's (1,2 & 4) all have mechanical set screw adjustments (These are factory set, make sure you don't adjust the mechanical screws). The GEN 3 (13 and later) has throttle by wire, The motor I believe is connected to TB 1 making that TB the reference on GEN3 Bikes. www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Carburetor-Synchronizer-Restrictor/dp/B0050CGRDM?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0050CGRDM
Hello, no, it only affects idle to about 2.5-3k. I also have vibration at higher speeds as well. 4k RPM and higher. It has been a quest of mine to reduce the vibration above 4k RPM. When I first got the bike it vibrated enough to put my hands asleep. I have been systematically going through the bike. I replaced the wires and coils, injectors, cleaned the throttle body. With each project, I got a little less vibration. What made the most difference was replacing the wires and coils. I also had a vibration at about 2k and that seemed to be caused by the balancers. From what you are describing, this should not be a problem. Is there any dent's in the headers. I have a crease in Cylinder #1 header at the collector box, and I have a theory that this could affect breathing in the cylinder causing my lower vacuum in the cylinder at higher RPM's. Thus causing vibration. To further my quest, I may replace the headers with headers from Delkevic in the future. If the painted throttle plates adjustments were ever touched, then the balance between closed and open throttle will be off. In this case the unofficial throttle body sync may get it close. Google it. It should be done only if you know the painted screws were touched and after everything else has been eliminated as the source of the problem. It's kind of tricky. What they are essentially looking for is to adjust the painted screws so the vacuum stays balanced at 4-4.5k as well as at idle. I knew these screws had been touched on my bike so I did the unofficial throttle body sync and have gotten the vibration much better, but unable to get cylinder #1 balanced. I think this is due to the dent in the header. Sorry for the long answer. Hope this helps, Thanks.
Hello, unfortunately Yamaha does not have a procedure for this. I'm guessing you don't have any pictures or memory of where the adjustment was or how far you moved it. I think it's about 3/4 turned out from closed. Id consult your Yamaha tech for what they do in this situation. It defines the air fuel ratio for the rest of the cylinders when the trims in the ecu are not in effect. This is only for if the master adjustment was definitely moved. I'm just throwing an idea out there, don't know if it will work but... If you disconnect the O2 sensor, the ecu goes into an open loop. With the sync in balance and a clean tb and air filter, measure the air/fuel ratio with a fuel ratio gauge. With the engine slightly off idle, take a measurement. If its rich, turn out all screws slightly, if it's lean, turn them in slightly. Maybe somebody with knowledge of the inner workings of the ecu could add to this theory. I've learned the hard way, take pictures first. Yamaha should really put a cap on the master cylinder adjustment. My old 84 Honda interceptor had caps on the carbs air adjustment. Hope this helps, mike
Sorry, it was made by someone producing it on demand. As far as I know, It's not available any more. Check this video description. There are links to the person that made the device. Maybe he can make them again. Personally, healtech makes a similar product that's probably better and has support.. It's in the description.
There is a section in the video showing a picture with circles around the adjustments. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a camera man. With both hands busy, my hands blocked the adjusting. Did not notice until later. That's why the picture.
Hello, It's made by a engineer that call's his site dimensionbx. I have the links for the site and app in the above description. Unfortunately he's does not seem to be selling these anymore. Maybe if you email him and ask nicely, he could make you one. In the description there is a link to a commercially made product by healtech.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 THX MİKES.THAT İS VERY KİND OF YOU.I love your videos.They r the best so far.why did you make block off different than twowhellobsession shows here.ua-cam.com/video/qYFWag7I3-Y/v-deo.html easier and cheaper.
hello, yes you can block off the port's by adding cap's to the blocks. However, my bike is older and the reed valves were leaking hot exhaust gas back into the hoses. So when I tried to use plugs, they would get hot, then stretch and crack. So the more elegant solution was to completely block-off the port's. Also the side effect of completely blocking off the ports is, that it quiets the engine slightly by not having exhaust sound making it's way into the hoses. thanks
I would sync for 4-6k rpms. Why? You don't ride on the highway or any other road, at idle speed. You ride at 4-6k rpm's. You bought the tool, now learn to properly use it.
I was shocked to see so few subscribers. I am one now.
What an excellent video. Thank you for your terrific work.
See you on the road.
Thanks
I'm not. This is done all wrong. You don't ride at idle speed now do you. So why sync it there? Sync at 4-6k rpm's.
Just bought 05 fjr. So thankful you took the time! I was apprehensive about doing tune up etc but not now. My bike smells rich and has erratic throttle under 3k. Going to change all fluids and plugs tb sync. Waiting for service manual to arrive. Thanks again!
I ve bought 2005 also.has the same issue.I changed all oil and plugs but no differences.
As They said it could be from Carburator.I think I have to take out the carb and clean may be rebuilt it which I hate.Long and difficult process.
harun ergul the plugs did wonders for me. Still an off idle surging im thinking tps. But the more i ride the rich smell is fading.
Well Done, man. - new FJR owner NY
Thank you for detailed video and instructions. Regards from Poland.
I have the exactly same bike! Good job!!!!!
Cool, thanks!
Great video
Thanks
Great video thanks again. When you doing the cam chan tensioner.
Sometime this spring when I do the Valve Check.
Thank you!
Hello,
First thks for your videos!! very helpful. I am doing a TBS on my 2007 FJR and I was wondering if the reference cylinder was also #3 for my year?
Unfortunately the manual I found for 2007 model does not talk about TBS unlike the 2006 manual.
Also I am using the carbtune pro and the metal rod keeps moving up and down making the reading hard. is it normal?
Do you have any info on that?
Thks for your time.
Your Welcome. Yea, I had the same problem. Get a set of restrictors from Motion Pro (Link Below). Yes. The 07 (GEN2) has a similar TB to the 05 (GEN1). The cable is connected to TB #3, this is the fixed TB that all other TB's are referenced to. Notice which TB the cable is attached to. The other TB's (1,2 & 4) all have mechanical set screw adjustments (These are factory set, make sure you don't adjust the mechanical screws). The GEN 3 (13 and later) has throttle by wire, The motor I believe is connected to TB 1 making that TB the reference on GEN3 Bikes.
www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Carburetor-Synchronizer-Restrictor/dp/B0050CGRDM?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0050CGRDM
Hey mike thanks for sharing great video , how did bike run after , did it get rid alot the vibration doing 70 and 80 on highway thanks
Hello, no, it only affects idle to about 2.5-3k.
I also have vibration at higher speeds as well. 4k RPM and higher.
It has been a quest of mine to reduce the vibration above 4k RPM.
When I first got the bike it vibrated enough to put my hands asleep.
I have been systematically going through the bike. I replaced the wires and coils, injectors, cleaned the throttle body. With each project, I got a little less vibration. What made the most difference was replacing the wires and coils.
I also had a vibration at about 2k and that seemed to be caused by the balancers. From what you are describing, this should not be a problem.
Is there any dent's in the headers. I have a crease in Cylinder #1 header at the collector box, and I have a theory that this could affect breathing in the cylinder causing my lower vacuum in the cylinder at higher RPM's. Thus causing vibration. To further my quest,
I may replace the headers with headers from Delkevic in the future.
If the painted throttle plates adjustments were ever touched, then the balance between closed and open throttle will be off. In this case the unofficial throttle body sync may get it close.
Google it. It should be done only if you know the painted screws were touched and after everything else has been eliminated as the source of the problem.
It's kind of tricky. What they are essentially looking for is to adjust the painted screws so the vacuum stays balanced at 4-4.5k as well as at idle.
I knew these screws had been touched on my bike so I did the unofficial throttle body sync and have gotten the vibration much better, but unable to get cylinder #1 balanced. I think this is due to the dent in the header.
Sorry for the long answer. Hope this helps, Thanks.
Hello , i did unscrew the master cylinder by mistake , do you know how do i fix this?
Hello, unfortunately Yamaha does not have a procedure for this. I'm guessing you don't have any pictures or memory of where the adjustment was or how far you moved it. I think it's about 3/4 turned out from closed. Id consult your Yamaha tech for what they do in this situation. It defines the air fuel ratio for the rest of the cylinders when the trims in the ecu are not in effect.
This is only for if the master adjustment was definitely moved. I'm just throwing an idea out there, don't know if it will work but...
If you disconnect the O2 sensor, the ecu goes into an open loop. With the sync in balance and a clean tb and air filter, measure the air/fuel ratio with a fuel ratio gauge. With the engine slightly off idle, take a measurement. If its rich, turn out all screws slightly, if it's lean, turn them in slightly.
Maybe somebody with knowledge of the inner workings of the ecu could add to this theory.
I've learned the hard way, take pictures first. Yamaha should really put a cap on the master cylinder adjustment. My old 84 Honda interceptor had caps on the carbs air adjustment.
Hope this helps, mike
Hey Mike how long is your tank prop stick?
Hello, the tank stick is 18" with a 45 degree cut on one end. Finishing Nail into each end sticking up about 1/2". Thanks, mike
Hi Mike, would you be able to post a link to the Bluetooth sync unit you used so I can see if it can be purchased in the UK, thanks
Unfortunatly, the guy that was making them is no longer producing them.
What sync tool are you using .
Sorry, it was made by someone producing it on demand. As far as I know, It's not available any more. Check this video description. There are links to the person that made the device. Maybe he can make them again. Personally, healtech makes a similar product that's probably better and has support.. It's in the description.
What is the name of synchronizer?
Check the videos description. It's no longer available. They were made on demand with 3d printed case. There is a link to a similar tool.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129
hi, where can i find it?
unfortunately, they are no longer making them. Check out the description of the video, there is a link to a similar device.
Ur not showing where to adjust
There is a section in the video showing a picture with circles around the adjustments.
Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a camera man. With both hands busy, my hands blocked the adjusting. Did not notice until later. That's why the picture.
what is the exact name of this bleutooth tool and apps on your phone.thx.
Hello, It's made by a engineer that call's his site dimensionbx. I have the links for the site and app in the above description. Unfortunately he's does not seem to be selling these anymore. Maybe if you email him and ask nicely, he could make you one. In the description there is a link to a commercially made product by healtech.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 THX MİKES.THAT İS VERY KİND OF YOU.I love your videos.They r the best so far.why did you make block off different than twowhellobsession shows here.ua-cam.com/video/qYFWag7I3-Y/v-deo.html
easier and cheaper.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Mikes, I can not reach him.
Too bad he is not responding, it’s a cool gadget. He was selling them on eBay, which was where I bought it.
hello, yes you can block off the port's by adding cap's to the blocks. However, my bike is older and the reed valves were leaking hot exhaust gas back into the hoses. So when I tried to use plugs, they would get hot, then stretch and crack. So the more elegant solution was to completely block-off the port's. Also the side effect of completely blocking off the ports is, that it quiets the engine slightly by not having exhaust sound making it's way into the hoses. thanks
I would sync for 4-6k rpms. Why? You don't ride on the highway or any other road, at idle speed. You ride at 4-6k rpm's. You bought the tool, now learn to properly use it.
What screw did you turn for adjustment? The video didn't show a closeup of the adjustment screw.