There is no need to use highly expensive oil such as shown in this video. Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is a full synthetic, low ash, that is compliant to M1 and M2 wet clutch requirements. Your important focus with wet clutch motorcycle engine oil are two things ... 1- Match up the second number given in your lubricant specification (aka for 20W 40) make sure your lubricant matches the 40 part, and does not exceed the 20W (cold viscosity) requirement. Going below the cold viscosity requirement is not a problem and is actually more desirable, because the engine will crank over easier, ans start faster, when it's cold. ... 2- make sure the oil meets Motorcycle wet clutch standards (M1 M2)....that must be stated on the bottle (usually on the rear panel) ..... Sometimes it will state JASO M, M1, M2. JASO simply means Japanese Standards, just like ANSI means American standards. Do Not use Automotive Grade oils as they Are Not designed to be use with Wet Clutch applications ... That said, If you have a motorcycle with an automatic transmission, A Dry Clutch, or CVT transmission, your engine oil will be different
Hello, I ran both the rotella and the motul. The rotella, the engine made a lot of top end tapping. with Motul, the engine was quiet and smooth. I am aware of the specs with rotella. My experience was that the motul performed better.
Types of oil is like a forbidden topic on my favorite FJR forum, lol. I've been using Shell's Rotella T6 5W40 in my bike since I bought it 4 years ago, works flawlessly and cheap at Canadian Tire in Canada. I do lots of cold-weather riding so the lighter oil is good for me.
Hello, I use to use rotella as well when I first got the bike. Valves seemed to tick, so I switched to motul 7100. The engine ran smoother and no more noises. I've used it ever since. Yes it's expensive, but it seemed to make a big difference over the rotella.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks for this reply too, I used Motul religiously in my BMW R1200C for years but it's not readily available where I now live 😞 Good to know, my bike is a bit noisy at times (around 3000 rpm).
Hello, also I removed the octopus under the tank and put block-off plates. This reduced top end noise. Not hearing the reeds. The new exhaust cans made the bike sound great. Sounds like a different bike in a good way. I no longer hear much of the mechanical noise, just a better defined lower note without making it loud. Mike
thanks for the video, i am about to do my first oil change on a 05 model so this is very useful. Do you have any tips or video instruction to remove the side fairings? lots of people are having difficulties doing that but nobody has made any videos on how to remove it step by step so far for the Gen 1 :(
Hello, yes, watch this video, it shows taking off the side fairings. ua-cam.com/video/LUN3-tBRx3M/v-deo.html Also, watch this video tor the removal of the front fairing. ua-cam.com/video/JDiLjU5ffDQ/v-deo.html Thanks, mike
Roughly, how much oil does the FJR1300 take at an oil change? I have a 2004 gen 1, and I’m changing the oil for the second time. I put 5 quarts in the 1st time, but now that I’ve drained that oil out, it seem like it was too much.
Great video! Just a couple of points. I know you did it, but you may want to mention to remove the fill cap to allow all the oil to come out, and not have a vacuum. Maybe remind folks to run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil and make it “thinner” and flow better
NEVER put 18 wheeler oil in a two wheeler.i put rotella t6 in my gen 1, started it up and it was ticking and knocking like it was gonna blow up.these bikes don't like restrictive oil filters either as they only have 4 psi oil pressure at idle and oil won't get up to the valvetrain until 2500 RPM when it makes enough pressure to push it up to the top and stop ticking.a lot of the ticking videos and threads are due to wrong oil, filter or both
Hello, yes I agree, my previous owner was using rotella. Used it the first time, didn't like, changed to motu, made a world of difference, never looked back . Mostly used OEM filter.
Hi, I just watched you recalibrate the balancers on the FJR, did not know existed. I do know the inline four needs throttle body balancing, how often do these things need adjustments?
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks so much! I put 4 Liters of Motul 5100 10 w 40 in mine, I guess it was a mistake? What is the difference between the two? Should I replace it?
no, 5100 is the semi-synthetic and the 7100 is the full-synthetic. Either works fine. If you want to go to the full synthetic, do it at the next interval. At least you have a really good oil in there. Mike
Tks Mike , my heart rate goes down (good for a 70 year old guy) to a more relaxed state to to concerns now with the clutch. A Happy new year to you from a German RP28 rider . @@mikesfjrcorner7129
The phone holder is a Chinese knockoff of a RAM mount with a ball mount that's mounted t the threaded hole in the clutch cylinder housing that's for a mirror on other bikes. You may have to remove a cap covering it. It also comes with a USB charger port that is wired to the battery. I use a 12" USB cable from the mount to the phone. Here is an eBay link to one that is not exactly the same but it's similar. The USB charger is in the inside of the X base on mine. www.ebay.com/itm/114660280791?hash=item1ab24909d7:g:~DEAAOSw0H9gFqZt You can also find these on Amazon.
Hello, the service manual has a chart on page 2-2 that shows either 10w/40 or 20w/40 depending on how cold you want to operate the bike. Both oils have the warm operating weight of 40w. So 10w/40 has a wider operating range. Since i'm in NJ and I operate the bike throughout the winter. A search on Motul's web site shows 10w/40 for the fjr's. Actually I don't think they make a 20w/40, only 20w/50. I think 20w/50 would be too heavy and make the transmission shift hard. I actually find the Motul's oil works great. The engine is quiet and I have not had any problems with shifting. Hope this helps
Just curious why you torque this drain plug to 170 inch pounds on the drain bolt and in your final drive video, torque the final drive drain plug to 200 inch pounds?
Hello, the spec for the final drive plug is correct 200 inch pounds, however, I just double checked the video against the manual and the 170 inch pounds is a mistake. Thank you for pointing it out. I made a mistake in the video. In the manual the torque for the oil plug is 380 inch pounds. The next item in the manual was the oil gallery bolt 170 inch pounds. I'll have to correct the video. Not sure if UA-cam let's you change the video. I'll look into fixing it. Thanks mike
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thank you for your quick response. I'd have to disagree with the manual, 380 inch pounds is asking for a problem in my opinion. Since the final and oil drain plugs are the same diameter and use the same crush washer, 200 inch pounds for both makes sense to me.
I've been looking into this today and I have to agree. I'm thinking it should be closer to 200 like the rear final drive. In the latest video that I'm currently working on, replacing the front fork seals, I followed the torque for the cartridge in the tube and the valve snapped. Expensive lessons learned.
How did you get on with the Motul 7100? My Gen1 gear box didn't like it much, gear change was horrible so much so that i dropped it back out after 2k miles back on to castrol power1 semi synthetic, gear change is much nicer
Hello, the 2005 used Yamaha 5GH-13440-20-00. This is what I use. If I'm in a pinch, I've used k&n kn-48, mobil 1 m1-110, ac-delco pf-2057. The fram version is more restrictive. Hope this helps.
My owners manual is in kilometers. When I convert it to miles it works out to 6,200 miles between oil changes? Just curious if yours is a different year or why the difference? Mine is an 05.
Hello, yea it does. However, the manual for US says 600mi/1km, 4000-mi/7km, 8000mi/13km ... I thought the same thing. Maybe it has to do with the emissions reduction in the US.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks. Not sure why mine is just in metric. One more question. Does the shaft drain bolt use the same crush washer as the oil drain bolt?
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks for the responses. Just bought my 05 a couple of weeks ago. Trying to learn all I can even if I don't do everything myself.
It's a great bike for the money. Very reliable and powerful, but a little heavy when stopped. Be careful of low speed turning, not to get too far over. I accidentally dropped it on a k turn. My bad, idle was set too low and the engine stalled. The weight does go away while driving. You can go on long trips with it. I made a trip from Jersey to Tennessee in one day on it. Never drove the bmw or connie so I can't comment on a comparison of the competitor's bikes in the category.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 I owned both - my 2005 FJR is many levels above those other two in terms of comfort and handling. I love this FJR! It is heavy, just gotta be diligent about that.
Great video, exactly how I perform the oil/filter change on my 04' FJR!
Great simple video with good instructions. Thank you!
Your welcome, mike
There is no need to use highly expensive oil such as shown in this video. Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is a full synthetic, low ash, that is compliant to M1 and M2 wet clutch requirements.
Your important focus with wet clutch motorcycle engine oil are two things
...
1- Match up the second number given in your lubricant specification (aka for 20W 40) make sure your lubricant matches the 40 part, and does not exceed the 20W (cold viscosity) requirement. Going below the cold viscosity requirement is not a problem and is actually more desirable, because the engine will crank over easier, ans start faster, when it's cold.
...
2- make sure the oil meets Motorcycle wet clutch standards (M1 M2)....that must be stated on the bottle (usually on the rear panel) ..... Sometimes it will state JASO M, M1, M2. JASO simply means Japanese Standards, just like ANSI means American standards.
Do Not use Automotive Grade oils as they Are Not designed to be use with Wet Clutch applications
...
That said, If you have a motorcycle with an automatic transmission, A Dry Clutch, or CVT transmission, your engine oil will be different
Hello, I ran both the rotella and the motul. The rotella, the engine made a lot of top end tapping. with Motul, the engine was quiet and smooth. I am aware of the specs with rotella. My experience was that the motul performed better.
Bullshit! I believe that crap and used that crap on my shadow. Ruined it.
Good luck misinformed penny pitcher
Top job, thank you. Kind regards from Argentina.
You're welcome
Great job
Won't be paying to have others do mine next time. Best regards
Thanks 👍
Very helpful, imformative video. Thank You.
You are welcome!
Types of oil is like a forbidden topic on my favorite FJR forum, lol. I've been using Shell's Rotella T6 5W40 in my bike since I bought it 4 years ago, works flawlessly and cheap at Canadian Tire in Canada. I do lots of cold-weather riding so the lighter oil is good for me.
Hello, I use to use rotella as well when I first got the bike. Valves seemed to tick, so I switched to motul 7100. The engine ran smoother and no more noises. I've used it ever since. Yes it's expensive, but it seemed to make a big difference over the rotella.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks for this reply too, I used Motul religiously in my BMW R1200C for years but it's not readily available where I now live 😞 Good to know, my bike is a bit noisy at times (around 3000 rpm).
Hello, also I removed the octopus under the tank and put block-off plates. This reduced top end noise. Not hearing the reeds. The new exhaust cans made the bike sound great. Sounds like a different bike in a good way. I no longer hear much of the mechanical noise, just a better defined lower note without making it loud. Mike
Do different temperatures in certain countries mean different oil vilocitys
@@SusanWillan Oil viscosities you mean? For sure, look at any application chart and it's totally temperature related.
Thank you! Really helpful 😊
Thank you ride safe
Nice thanks
thanks for the video, i am about to do my first oil change on a 05 model so this is very useful. Do you have any tips or video instruction to remove the side fairings? lots of people are having difficulties doing that but nobody has made any videos on how to remove it step by step so far for the Gen 1 :(
Hello,
yes, watch this video, it shows taking off the side fairings. ua-cam.com/video/LUN3-tBRx3M/v-deo.html
Also, watch this video tor the removal of the front fairing. ua-cam.com/video/JDiLjU5ffDQ/v-deo.html
Thanks, mike
great Video thank you
Thanks, man. Great video.
Thank you so much for this!
Your welcome.
What filters can you use with this? And do you really need to pour oil into the filter before installing? Why?
Roughly, how much oil does the FJR1300 take at an oil change? I have a 2004 gen 1, and I’m changing the oil for the second time.
I put 5 quarts in the 1st time, but now that I’ve drained that oil out, it seem like it was too much.
4 1/2 q
I have a 2003
As far as how much??? I just fill to the top dot like he said
Cheers and don't over fill.
Nice video
Nice video
Thanks
Great video! Just a couple of points.
I know you did it, but you may want to mention to remove the fill cap to allow all the oil to come out, and not have a vacuum.
Maybe remind folks to run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil and make it “thinner” and flow better
Good point.
NEVER put 18 wheeler oil in a two wheeler.i put rotella t6 in my gen 1, started it up and it was ticking and knocking like it was gonna blow up.these bikes don't like restrictive oil filters either as they only have 4 psi oil pressure at idle and oil won't get up to the valvetrain until 2500 RPM when it makes enough pressure to push it up to the top and stop ticking.a lot of the ticking videos and threads are due to wrong oil, filter or both
Hello, yes I agree, my previous owner was using rotella. Used it the first time, didn't like, changed to motu, made a world of difference, never looked back . Mostly used OEM filter.
Hi, I just watched you recalibrate the balancers on the FJR, did not know existed. I do know the inline four needs throttle body balancing, how often do these things need adjustments?
Very Rarely. since I had vibration problems, I just did it as part of a process of elimination.
Very Rarely, since I had vibration problems. I just did it as part of a process of elimination.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 very interested in the FJR and NIKEN. Thanks for all the maintenance videos. Yamaha makes great bikes, reliable bikes👍
Seems like Yamaha did the opposite with this bike than the Vstar 1100 custom where they make you remove the exhaust pipe to get at the filter lol
I'm glad that it's not the fjr. That would be a pain.
Well done, what MOTUL oil you use ?
Motul 7100 full synthetic 10w-40. Thanks, mike
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks so much! I put 4 Liters of Motul 5100 10 w 40 in mine, I guess it was a mistake? What is the difference between the two? Should I replace it?
no, 5100 is the semi-synthetic and the 7100 is the full-synthetic. Either works fine. If you want to go to the full synthetic, do it at the next interval. At least you have a really good oil in there. Mike
Tks Mike , my heart rate goes down (good for a 70 year old guy) to a more relaxed state to to concerns now with the clutch. A Happy new year to you from a German RP28 rider . @@mikesfjrcorner7129
Thanks for this video. What is your setup for the phone holder ?
The phone holder is a Chinese knockoff of a RAM mount with a ball mount that's mounted t the threaded hole in the clutch cylinder housing that's for a mirror on other bikes. You may have to remove a cap covering it. It also comes with a USB charger port that is wired to the battery. I use a 12" USB cable from the mount to the phone. Here is an eBay link to one that is not exactly the same but it's similar. The USB charger is in the inside of the X base on mine.
www.ebay.com/itm/114660280791?hash=item1ab24909d7:g:~DEAAOSw0H9gFqZt
You can also find these on Amazon.
Nice video
but i dont know How many litters with oil filter change and how many litters when only oil change ?
Thank you
About 4.25 L. Thanks
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 with filter or only oil
With filter
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thnk u bro
Hi my motorcycle 2005 fjr 1300 user manual says oil 20w 40, but you put 10w 40 oil, which one do you think is right, i should use 10w 40 oil like you
Hello, the service manual has a chart on page 2-2 that shows either 10w/40 or 20w/40 depending on how cold you want to operate the bike. Both oils have the warm operating weight of 40w. So 10w/40 has a wider operating range. Since i'm in NJ and I operate the bike throughout the winter.
A search on Motul's web site shows 10w/40 for the fjr's.
Actually I don't think they make a 20w/40, only 20w/50. I think 20w/50 would be too heavy and make the transmission shift hard.
I actually find the Motul's oil works great. The engine is quiet and I have not had any problems with shifting.
Hope this helps
Just curious why you torque this drain plug to 170 inch pounds on the drain bolt and in your final drive video, torque the final drive drain plug to 200 inch pounds?
Hello, the spec for the final drive plug is correct 200 inch pounds, however, I just double checked the video against the manual and the 170 inch pounds is a mistake. Thank you for pointing it out. I made a mistake in the video. In the manual the torque for the oil plug is 380 inch pounds. The next item in the manual was the oil gallery bolt 170 inch pounds. I'll have to correct the video. Not sure if UA-cam let's you change the video. I'll look into fixing it.
Thanks mike
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thank you for your quick response. I'd have to disagree with the manual, 380 inch pounds is asking for a problem in my opinion. Since the final and oil drain plugs are the same diameter and use the same crush washer, 200 inch pounds for both makes sense to me.
I've been looking into this today and I have to agree. I'm thinking it should be closer to 200 like the rear final drive.
In the latest video that I'm currently working on, replacing the front fork seals, I followed the torque for the cartridge in the tube and the valve snapped. Expensive lessons learned.
How did you get on with the Motul 7100? My Gen1 gear box didn't like it much, gear change was horrible so much so that i dropped it back out after 2k miles back on to castrol power1 semi synthetic, gear change is much nicer
I had no problems. The engine was quieter and shifts were smooth. Not sure why you had problems. I did used the stock filter. Use what works. Thanks.
Which oil filter do you use? I seem to order the wrong one all the time. thanks!
Hello, the 2005 used Yamaha 5GH-13440-20-00. This is what I use. If I'm in a pinch, I've used k&n kn-48, mobil 1 m1-110, ac-delco pf-2057. The fram version is more restrictive. Hope this helps.
Hi Mike,
Where did you get the pads on the side of your tank ?
Hello, it's from techspec. techspec-usa.com/yamaha-fjr-1300-2001-05-snake-skin-tank-grips.html
My owners manual is in kilometers. When I convert it to miles it works out to 6,200 miles between oil changes? Just curious if yours is a different year or why the difference? Mine is an 05.
Hello, yea it does. However, the manual for US says 600mi/1km, 4000-mi/7km, 8000mi/13km ... I thought the same thing. Maybe it has to do with the emissions reduction in the US.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks. Not sure why mine is just in metric. One more question. Does the shaft drain bolt use the same crush washer as the oil drain bolt?
@@kennethemichael yes, it's the same.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thanks for the responses. Just bought my 05 a couple of weeks ago. Trying to learn all I can even if I don't do everything myself.
@@kennethemichael congrats on the fjr. It's a great bike. can go forever if taken care of.
You didn't replace the oil filter?
Made me look. A new filter goes on at 3:46.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 ok. Thanks. 😊
Is 2013 FJR for same process?
For a oil change & diff change. Yes it's the same.
It is a 05.
What are your opinions on 2005 fjr?
It's a great bike for the money. Very reliable and powerful, but a little heavy when stopped. Be careful of low speed turning, not to get too far over. I accidentally dropped it on a k turn. My bad, idle was set too low and the engine stalled. The weight does go away while driving. You can go on long trips with it. I made a trip from Jersey to Tennessee in one day on it. Never drove the bmw or connie so I can't comment on a comparison of the competitor's bikes in the category.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thank you for the feedback.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 I owned both - my 2005 FJR is many levels above those other two in terms of comfort and handling. I love this FJR! It is heavy, just gotta be diligent about that.
Absolutely GORGEOUS! I have a 2004 which is the "Bluish silver" Color. the 2005 "Purplish-Blue" color is so stunning!
Which year is this FJR? Thank you
It’s a 05
wear gloves more important than the tin foil. good vid thanks, much easier than on an st1300
Мотюль мы не заливаем, много подделок. Самое лучшее Eni
Thanks. Not sure if it's a problem in the USA. I buy from cycle gear. Should be from official distribution.