FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vibration, Adjust Engine Balancers, Clean Throttle Body & Replace Seals. (PART 3)
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2018
- When I bought the bike, I had vibration peeks at 3k, 4-4.5k rpm. I tried most of the common methods of fixing the problem (TBS, Unofficial TBS, Spray cleaning of Throttle Body, Torque the Engine Mounts, Plugs, Wires & Coils) to no avail.
I then adjusted the Front Engine Balancer and my 3k vibration was gone. 4k was less but still had another peek at 4.5k.
Since the Rear Engine Balancer was under the Throttle Body, I decided to do other maintenance at the same time.
This video is the complete how to for removing and complete cleaning the Throttle body, Seal replacement on the Injectors, doing the Engine Balancer adjustments and replacing the Water Seals on the Thermostat to Engine Water Pipe.
My theory of a loose Balancer is that the Balancer will vibrate in the space between the teeth and have a resonate frequency based on it's weight and speed in which it turns.
Model: FJR1300A 2005 Generation 1
Front Balancer Specifications: 1 Line clockwise from ~4 inch pounds counterclockwise position.
Rear Balancer Specifications: 2 Lines clockwise from ~4 inch pounds counterclockwise position.
WARNING: Do not turn clockwise beyond the specifications. This may in turn cause the balancer to skip teeth and require visual inspection of the alignment marks.
This video is in three parts:
Part 1 - Disassembly of Fairings, removal of Throttle Body, and adjustment of Engine Balancers.
• FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vib...
Part 2 - Cleaning and Lubing of Throttle Body.
• FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vib...
Part 3 - Installation of Throttle Body and reassembly of Bike, Impressions, Modifications.
• FJR1300 2005 Gen I Vib...
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Again, thank you . Fantastic instructions. your are after teaching me louds .
Your welcome, mike
I had the same vibration. Rebalanced front tire....smooth as silk.
Glad you found the issue.
Thanks Mike.
Very thorough video. Nice work
excellent video! Thanks for posting.
Mike, thanks for making this video. I've had the same 2005 FJR for 17 years, since buying new, and I love it. Will soon be retiring and one of the ways I plan to keep out of my wife's hair is learning how to maintain and improve my Feejer - all by myself. I'm a computer engineer so my mechanical ability is limited to moving a mouse and typing on a keyboard but your detailed videos make me think I could maybe actually do some of the work. You do such a fine job of showing every step of each process and demonstrating care and patience along the way. I feel like I'm an apprentice right there in the shop with you. Looking forward to watching every one of your videos and eagerly waiting for more.
Hello, go for it. Expand your capabilities.
We have some things in common, I'm also a computer engineer and also had a background in electronics.
When you build software, you have to figure out the steps to achieve the goal. Apply that ability and thinking to mechanics and I'll bet you can do anything.
Great video Mike. Your channel is a great resource.
Thanks
Also u need protective clothing. Gloves especially!
excellent A+
awesome video.
Thanks
Fuel control memory changes only occur under 4k rpm. Without major movements and do not touch the brakes.
Cruise for extended lengths of time. This will remap the fuel control. Upper rpm does not regulate fuel memory programming. It merely reflects the lower program values.
Understood. The plx Bluetooth wideband sensor has a narrow band output for the ecu to use if I want closed loop.
I have a fuel controller installed in open loop, adjusted by the seat of my pants, i can tell you, its runs smoother. I'm looking forward to being able to see fuel air ratio.
I'm an electronic and software engineer and I like tinkering.
You’re a clever cookie mate
Thanks
Man, you did some seriously good work, brother. The one and ONLY thing I don't absolutely love about my 2015 FJR1300 is that annoying buzz that makes my hands go numb, especially the throttle hand. If I can get that under control, I'll ride this great bike until the wheels fall off, then put some new wheels on it and keep on riding. If not, I'll be looking at the BMW R1250 RT, but I'm not really wanting to spend $24K if I can avoid it. Thanks for posting this. I need to get to work !!
Thanks, I had the same problem. I have arthritis and my hand's and they were easily getting numb. Each thing I did to the bike made it a little better.
2015? It seems like the bike is too new for this kind of maintenance. Check for throttle body cleaning and a good syncing. Make sure the throttle position sync screws have not been touched. These screws are factory set and should not be touched. The screws that are used for syncing is the ones on the side of each throttle body.
Also use a good oil like, Motul 7100 full synth. You be surprised of the difference a good oil can make.
Since mine was a 05' most of the problems are from age.
For me, cleaning and syncing the throttle body as well as adjusting the balancer's did reduce the vibration, but it did not eliminate it completely. The last piece of the puzzle was, at least for me, the coils and plug wires.
When I created this video, I had thought I had already check this by installing a Coil on Plug conversion (COP). But this mod created some vibration of it's own. What happened was I swapped out vibration from bad coils, with vibration from the COP mod, and thus, I never noticed any significant change and moved on to what I did in this video, which did help some.
Then I revisited the coils, removed the COP conversion and installed new coils and wires.
Since the coils from yammy is expensive, I used these coils on EBAY (Pair of Honda 12 Volt Ignition Coils Dual Output Racing High Performance 2 Ohm, from 2Fast Moto). These coil's have the right Resistance and was possibly small enough to fit.
Well, I got them in and realized they would not fit with the original brackets. I had to make new bracket's and figure what angle to make the bracket so they would fit without touching the fairing. They were approximately a 45 degree L bracket on each hole. I also used Accel Copper Stranded Core Plug Wires I had Lying around along with the original Yamaha plug boots.
This in turn, this made the engine, along with the other maintenance a smooth engine. I now don't have any problems with my hand's getting numb.
I would suggest to check in the following order for anybody with an older bike:
Check Plugs, Wires & Coils.
Clean & Balance the Throttle Body. (If you remove the Throttle Body for cleaning, then Check the Balancers while you are there).
A valve check if it has not been done in a while.
Hope this help's
Mike
Another thing I just thought of is: Since part of the frame is the engine. Make sure the engine mounts are torqued. There is a procedure outlined in the maintenance manual for doing this. A bolt that is not tight may introduce vibration into the frame.
Hi mike. Thank you so much for the video. I’m going to try it on my FJR G1. One question, when you make the final adjustment of the sensor, how exactly do you do it, it was the only thing that wasn’t clear to me. I really appreciate your knowledge. It’s a pleasure to watch you at work on the bikes. Regards. Omar
Hi Mike.this is another great video.Thanks a lot.But some part of the video, I did not understand.For example, fixing the throttle cable is really PITA.But you did not show it how you put it back in its place.
Another question is, balancer adjusting.I did not understand this too.And other is TPS adjusting from dashboard.If you can make some details about them this video will be a perfect one.
thx a lot and please keep going.
Are you a Yamaha mechanic? You seem to have done that job before. You make it look so easy. Great video.
When you cleaned the thermostat pipe in water etc., was it okay to leave the coolant temperature sensor installed ?
I capped the pipe ends. It might be safer to just remove it, if you like.
i see that your ignition system is newer that the one on 2005 as its not using normal ignition cables ,is it a newer engine installed on ur 2005 ? great video
Yea, I replaced them with Accell solid wire I had, along with some coils I got on ebay. At the time I could not find new coils. I've since got them and I'm going to put them back in when I do the valves, later this fall.
Hey Mike. I have an FJR 1300 from 2004. I don't know very much about bikes. How do I know what gen mi bike is. I want to do the throttle body sync, and I need to know what Cylinder is the master. I appreciate your answer. I love your videos by the way :-)
Hello, Thanks... It's a Gen 1. Gen 1 goes from 2001-2005, Gen 2 is 2006-2012 and Gen 3 is 2013-present. The master is the 3rd Cylinder counting from left to right. It's the same throttle body the throttle cable is connected to. Google "Yamaha_FJR1300_2001_Service_Manual" and "Yamaha_FJR1300_2004_Supplemental_Service_Manual"
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 you are really great help. I appreciate you taking time to answer and helping people like me. Have a nice day. 🙂
very nice video but also stressed because who can do all this job ? nobody will take care as you did in service garage..i bought an fjr 2004 2 weeks ago
thanks
I have the same problem with vibrations on my cbf 600s, 4000-6000 rpm…u think I can fix it?
Vibration can be difficult to diagnose. I'd first try to find out if it's mechanical, or cause by how the engine is firing. Clean the intake, throttle body and injectors. Then do a throttle body sync. If the vacuum is synced at idle, but it goes out at 4-5k, then it's most likely a firing problem. The cylinders that are low, check compression, valve timing, plugs, coils & wires, dents in a header. I don't know if that bike has air screws and throttle plate adjustments like the FJR. If it does, and the wrong adjustment was touched, then that could throw things off. It could change where the throttle plate sits causing different throttle opening at higher RPMS, and the air screw compensates at idle by giving it more or less air. I would not touch them though, unless you really know the wrong screws were touched and you have eliminated everything else. Anyway, hope this helps, Mike.
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 thank you very much!
Did this fix the vibration?
Yes, in my situation the balancer was causing a resonate vibration that was stronger at 4k. Afterwards the peek was eliminated. Cleaning and syncing the throttle body also helped lower the overall vibration, but it did not eliminate it, for my bike it was and/is a working progress.
There can be many reasons for vibration. Before I did this video I changed plugs, coil/wires, valve check and injectors. The coils/wires did help quite a bit. Once the simple solutions were eliminated, I did the balancers and cleaned the throttle body.
What I found was at the age of the bike it's not just one thing, each thing I've done has helped get a little closer to a smooth ride. I'm almost there. I've also experimented with a fuel controller and found that yammah has these bikes a little lean. I also have a dent in the header on cylinder 1 that I suspect is causing lower vaccum at high rpms on the cylinder 1. I just got delkevic headers to see if this gets the last little bit of vibration.
Try starting by replaceing the plugs, coils/wires first and do a tbs. Make sure that in the past the tbs was done correctly and the throttle plate painted adjustments weren't accently touched.. Make sure the vacuum stays somewhat even at higher rpms. Also make sure the air filter is oem. I made the mistake of using hiflo and it was also causing some vibration by limiting the air flow.
Sorry, at least for me, it was not a short answer, but I hope it helps. Thanks.
Thank you for your help