Відео

Lovin the optimism and experimentation 👍

www.myteeproducts.com/blaster-corp-penetrating-catalyst-big-part-no-16-pb-ds-11-oz-prostraw-can.html

Love your videos... I'm wanting to get into the hobby but I haven't found the right VW bug yet.... I'm on the hunt!!

dude you camera angle is not showing anything your working on. all we see is you messing with something but we cant see it

Well done sir

I love your VW build. You are doing things I'm going to get into very sone. Do more long videos on your motor build.

Telehandler is a great for the job too. 😅

In 1967 these were daily vehicles so why not today

For the thrust I've seen people also use a metal ring when they were badly worn , like a oil control ring

You cut minimum on the case and then turn the over size thrust bearing on a lathe to suit the case

Standard CVS Transmission. Usually these have a window so you can see where the belt is at on the pulleys.

Bought an old true line align bore set many years ago. Made new bronze bushes with one twentieth of the clearance of the old ones the other guy had been using to get a result. Also made a collar that clamped onto a cutter bar with a single tip hss tool bit similar to what you made for thrust cutting. I didn't like the concept of the supplied thrust cutter. Didn't trust it to cut square to the mains bore. Using a fixed thrust stop for the cutter bar I set the cut depth with feeler gauges, then removed the feeler gauge and made the cut. Being piloted in bushings in the fresh cut mains tunnel, turned out square to axis and parallel thrust dimension inside to outside face every time. Think I was still an apprentice bookmaker at the time.

M20x4 thread is not what you'd normally see on ANY "metric" machine, as far as I can tell (being "born metric and native metric" all my life, 60 yrs of it thank you very much, in virtually a 100% metric land) - ESPECIALLY for any "fine-tuning" mechanism. The thing is, "standard metric threads" are considered "coarse threads" - so no need to get any "coarser", so to speak. Double threads are sometimes used for quick action fasteners or such, but that's about it - and In machines like this and in case of "regulating devices" I'd rather expect a fine threads (say, M20x1). So it could be just an "imperial" thread (regular imperial threads for the same/ similar OD are visibly coarser than corresponding metric ones) and without verifying it with thread gauge you just can't know for sure. Also, considering that standard thread angle for metric thread is 60° - means the profile is an equilateral triangle - a 4 mm pitch would mean the height of the profile ≈ √10, i.e. about 3 mm PER SIDE - so if the major ID ≈ 20 mm then the minor ID would be around 20 mm - (2 x 3mm), i.e 14 mm, NOT 18 mm. A rather significant (and hard to miss) difference, if you ask me. Also, from what I can see here, this looks more like "Tr" thread ("Tr" standing for "trapezoid metric," or "metric equivalent of ACME"), not an "M" thread (i.e a regular triangular metric thread) - and in such case the 4 mm pitch would make sense. Why they'd decide for trapezoid thread, I have no effing idea - looks like they did it for no real reason, since there isn't any big force involved in it (like in some heavy load lifting device) and you'd want to control PRECISELY the speed of the blade - so a fine metric thread (like, say, M20x1) would be better suited here. PS: And while I do admire your creativity in solving the problem at hand I still can't see how it was "less work" than changing three gears in the gearbox of your lathe and getting the "M20x4" screw cut.. ;-) Surely, considering what I wrote above it would get you, most likely, exactly nowhere, but then you'd learn more about the thread in question and how tto fix that machine "properly".

I have identical saw let me know if ya need any info on the part mine looks to be of fabricated also

Every home shop/garage needs 3 phase power! Did that come standard? I always enjoy your videos.

Cool saw and slick fix. I can see why it had such a coarse thread. Probably had a large hand wheel with that course thread.

The belt doesn't get thinner on either end. The belt moves along the conic plates to precisely adjust rpm of the driven shaft

It looks like you’re spot on. Way to go. www.normanmachinetool.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/9608-Trennjaeger-ST-351-ColdSaw-1.jpg

haha, pretty slick solution! Always enjoy following along as you work through these projects!

This might work for me because I'm having a hell of a time trying to bleed my break system on my 66 beetle. All of the lines and system are brand new and I've bench bled the master and I can get pedal pressure just not enough

Clever, skilled Brent.

HI Brent, Great be seeing you again douing what you like best👍🏻, fix the stuff what`s not functional in the way it should🛠🔧well executed my friend🙏🏻🍀.Greetings.Hubertus🇳🇱🇳🇴☮🙏🏻🇺🇸

Nice job on getting it straightened out Brent. Glad to see you back posting vids.

Like your channel and great content. We need MORE of it. MORE MORE MORE. Especially when I’m waiting on my Karmann Ghia parts to come in😅

It's a Snow mobile drive belt system like.

Great job, super idea, with all that luck maybe you should go buy a lottery ticket 😂.

Creative solution, Brent!

You could cut a window on each end into that housing so you could see what’s going on as your tightening and adjusting the pulley

Nice work! Made it look easy.

Finer thread = finer speed control LOL; Just need to make a handwheel for it now instead of a wrench, maybe an old vw steering wheel LOL :P

Excellent problem solving Brent! Nice to see old equipment being revived.

Nicely done Brent.

Thank you for so much information...I traded for a Bridgeport and must move it a long way...John

Love the videos! Keep them coming!

Am also a rewire can I come over

If you listen to your narrative after the first bad cut & non perfect align bore measuring...🤔🤔🤔

German Colonoscopy

Tweeker!

Ive always clear silacon all the gaps on the backside and the rexist. Dont forget a fresh apron seal along the bottom, front and back.

Does the split window not have the shuttlecock bushings that go on the shift shaft? If they do, how do you get the front one with the metal clip on it back into the tube "against the grain"?

I thought I was smart buying a vacuum bleeder for my 73 Bug. Thanks for the explanation on how the cylinders work!

Maybe time the cutters so they cut opposite sides along the bar, that way the bar flexs less from 4 tools pushing the same side at once...

Oh man, I absolutely love that motorhome. It’s been a while since I’ve seen an interview from you like the ones you did with Annie and Slade. I really enjoy those. Would love to see one with Gary from VW jawbreaker

Did you figure out the problem?

Thanks for the memories

Glad to see you were able to attend. I think it is best if you can stay around and see everyone in their element at restaurants and hotel parking lots. You find out lots off site.

JB weld?! Lol Maybe they didn’t forget to torque the main studs, just over time vibration wear and tear?. Some things broke free.

Neat show. I do prefer a landscape video format because I watch on my TV.

This was a wonderful show

That's when ya know the shows are getting big when you run into some and miss others walking around the circle 🤪❤️