RESCUE Fabrication to Avoid the Scrapyard!
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- Опубліковано 26 тра 2024
- Marketplace strikes again. This poor saw has seen rough times and is missing an important part. Can we fabricate something to keep it alive?
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haha, pretty slick solution! Always enjoy following along as you work through these projects!
Thanks Annie, right back atcha!
Nice job on getting it straightened out Brent. Glad to see you back posting vids.
Thanks Robert, was glad to finally finish this video and post!
HI Brent, Great be seeing you again douing what you like best👍🏻, fix the stuff what`s not functional in the way it should🛠🔧well executed my friend🙏🏻🍀.Greetings.Hubertus🇳🇱🇳🇴☮🙏🏻🇺🇸
Thanks Hubertus, great to hear from you! I trust the T3 project is going well?
Excellent problem solving Brent! Nice to see old equipment being revived.
Thanks Alan, was glad this worked. It should be a time saver on larger fabrication projects!
Nicely done Brent.
Thanks Gary!
Creative solution, Brent!
Thanks @andoletube !
Like your channel and great content. We need MORE of it. MORE MORE MORE. Especially when I’m waiting on my Karmann Ghia parts to come in😅
Thanks @dcmflydude6320, good luck with the Ghia project!
Clever, skilled Brent.
Thanks Greg!
The belt doesn't get thinner on either end.
The belt moves along the conic plates to precisely adjust rpm of the driven shaft
Thanks bowser I'm aware of that. May have misspoke is one spot and called the "pulley" a "belt".
Nice work! Made it look easy.
Thanks @stuck1000 !
You could cut a window on each end into that housing so you could see what’s going on as your tightening and adjusting the pulley
Hey Darrin! That would've been handy to see it in action
Cool saw and slick fix. I can see why it had such a coarse thread. Probably had a large hand wheel with that course thread.
Thanks @dev-debug A handwheel was indeed one of the missing parts. It's a shame some parts were lost along the way but there's enough left to be useful. This thing slices through structural steel like butter!
Finer thread = finer speed control LOL; Just need to make a handwheel for it now instead of a wrench, maybe an old vw steering wheel LOL :P
I like the way you think!
Standard CVS Transmission. Usually these have a window so you can see where the belt is at on the pulleys.
Great job, super idea, with all that luck maybe you should go buy a lottery ticket 😂.
Thanks David, let's go to Vegas!
Well done sir
It's a
Snow mobile drive belt system like.
Kinda sorta yeah. I think the Bridgeport varispeed works in a similar fashion.
Every home shop/garage needs 3 phase power! Did that come standard? I always enjoy your videos.
Wouldn't that be cool?!? Only single phase from the street for me, I'm using a rotary converter to get 3 phase. Thanks @ajk2749 !
@@HapticGarage Interesting. I'm not an electrician but do have some experience there. I envision a Variac on steroids! I'll have to look up rotary converter. Thanks Haptic!
They're really neat on a technical level. It's a 3 phase motor running on 2 hots, with capacitors and pixie dust for phase shift and magic so the 3rd winding produces a "manufactured" leg of power. Great for efficiency and necessary for running multiple machines. Enjoy!
@@HapticGarage Thanks again! Fascinating that it can be done! I think pixie dust is the important ingredient here!
M20x4 thread is not what you'd normally see on ANY "metric" machine, as far as I can tell (being "born metric and native metric" all my life, 60 yrs of it thank you very much, in virtually a 100% metric land) - ESPECIALLY for any "fine-tuning" mechanism.
The thing is, "standard metric threads" are considered "coarse threads" - so no need to get any "coarser", so to speak. Double threads are sometimes used for quick action fasteners or such, but that's about it - and In machines like this and in case of "regulating devices" I'd rather expect a fine threads (say, M20x1). So it could be just an "imperial" thread (regular imperial threads for the same/ similar OD are visibly coarser than corresponding metric ones) and without verifying it with thread gauge you just can't know for sure.
Also, considering that standard thread angle for metric thread is 60° - means the profile is an equilateral triangle - a 4 mm pitch would mean the height of the profile ≈ √10, i.e. about 3 mm PER SIDE - so if the major ID ≈ 20 mm then the minor ID would be around 20 mm - (2 x 3mm), i.e 14 mm, NOT 18 mm. A rather significant (and hard to miss) difference, if you ask me.
Also, from what I can see here, this looks more like "Tr" thread ("Tr" standing for "trapezoid metric," or "metric equivalent of ACME"), not an "M" thread (i.e a regular triangular metric thread) - and in such case the 4 mm pitch would make sense.
Why they'd decide for trapezoid thread, I have no effing idea - looks like they did it for no real reason, since there isn't any big force involved in it (like in some heavy load lifting device) and you'd want to control PRECISELY the speed of the blade - so a fine metric thread (like, say, M20x1) would be better suited here.
PS: And while I do admire your creativity in solving the problem at hand I still can't see how it was "less work" than changing three gears in the gearbox of your lathe and getting the "M20x4" screw cut.. ;-)
Surely, considering what I wrote above it would get you, most likely, exactly nowhere, but then you'd learn more about the thread in question and how tto fix that machine "properly".
I have identical saw let me know if ya need any info on the part mine looks to be of fabricated also
Cool! Nice to know there's more out there in use. The company states they are no longer made, so we have to take care of these things! I do have a question- mine is missing a large hast handle/lever from the blade/left side of the platform. I'm guessing that is a grab handle for adjusting the saw into miter positions?