Відео

@@rahalati I have honestly never tried to do that and I don’t know cause I’ve never had the scenario on text stream where I needed to do that

@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks🌹

@@marvinpostadan3484 it could be the difference between a long life compressor Ann A short life compressor

@@JamesAutoDude yes the Schrader valve is better

There is an item called an AC amplifier under the dash. That also can cause the blinking light You have to research and download the diagnostic chart . For the blinking light . And it will show you what to test and wear

ua-cam.com/video/Zjb60XXHCEs/v-deo.htmlsi=PF1zQCfhKz0aTzfe If you use the search term in UA-cam (“ retrofit mineral oil refrigerant”) It will bring up some video recommendations

@@JohnFrazier007 I did that when I was a kid. Only once

Available at True Tech Tools INFICON 703-080-G10 Tek-Check R134a Reference Leak Check Source for Leak Detector R134a refrigerant Inficon TEK-Check R1234yf Reference Leak SKU:703-080-G12 This is for R1234yf 8% discount coupon code LECHAIR All capital letters, all one word All orders over $50 free shipping

@@coldfinger459sub0 awesome, thank you. Have you ever needed to change the sensor in your stratus?

@@nservice1625 yes after about two years.

@@coldfinger459sub0 I just ordered the r134 reference leak. Do I just hold it up to the bottle or do I just pass the shiffer past the bottle?

@@nservice1625 bottle at room temperature 70°F roughly. Let it stabilize temperature overnight . Remove the lid let it sit out a few minutes to air out . And you should be able to pass the sensor I can’t remember the exact measurement roughly 3/8 of an inch or a quarter of an inch in a slow motion continuously without stopping and it should pick it up You should NOT have to press it down into the hole and hold it . I have done some video showing how to do it And I believe INFICON has made some demonstration videos to .

Pure propane is actually the best.

@@coldfinger459sub0 Lots of people seem to have a different definition of what r12a is. Redtek's sds says its 100% propane, Emzone says theirs is a proprietary mix with butane. I suppose there's advantages for each. At any rate, I have to switch my R134a system I converted from R12 years ago, because I can't get R134a anywhere anymore. It looks like its compatible with Ester oil which is a good thing because I don't want to flush the system. Seems pretty straight forward.

@@craig7350 in their MSDS material safety data sheet and write in their own literature. They say it’s a blend of propane and butane. They have one variant that does not have lubricant in it And they sell another variant that contains a lubricant .

@@coldfinger459sub0 Ok, I see Redtek offers R290 as well, so maybe it was that sds I was reading. I've read a few today, I'll try and find it. At any rate, all the other alternative refrigerants, there is so many names seem to be a blend of butane and propane, but they don't say what it is.. Not that it really matters I suppose, the premise is they're trying to duplicate the characteristics of R134a. I'll be buying it without oil, because the system already has sufficient ester in it. I know the charge is a lot less (I'm just doing research now, thats how I ended up here) so I'll keep that in mind as I watch the pressures, and outlet temp during charging.

That’s why are you using a refrigerant analyzer first approved that there is no air in the system We don’t guess We test improve without a shadow of a doubt that the refrigerant is always 100% pure we don’t guess by how much is in there by pressure we always 100% recover the refrigerant out vacuum and only use the weight of the refrigerant by the manufacturer specification is the only true way to be 100% perfect every time 100% of the time

@@coldfinger459sub0 yeah very good point on that one Also if it still doesn't cool then you know it's likely something else, even a compressor that's not obviously failed yet

@@Ochi-gx5wv this is where you go online to Google or eBay or Amazon and look up the 134 coupler that has the adapter on the end for a quarter inch thread to go to your hoses

@@coldfinger459sub0 Ho man THANK YOU. spent 2 days researching but couldn't get a straight answer. Simple, 1/4 inch thread. Now we're cooking with oil.

@@davidellingwood4075 there is a very, very slow bleed by through the expansion valve. It’s not 100% perfect seal.. And some hard shut off expansion valves, bleed by a little faster than others The cold temperature shut off or close down based on temperatures through the diaphragm control of the refrigerant pressure on the bulb side and combination of spring pressure and refrigerant pressure all these forces combat and fight each other over control whether to open or close off or somewhere in between the pin that travels up and down And this is control superheat while the compressor is running in refrigerant is flowing I have put links to educational videos on this topic few months ago on the Facebook group Automotive HVAC technicians

@@suryaprihadi2258 70-ish is inside the manifold directly off the True blue vacuum hose Yes, it would be well over 200 µm inside the system And vacuum decay will still go up to 500 or so . How was your showing the demo and I think hopefully I put in the description describing with the vacuum pump running vacuum open People always like to take shortcuts and the simplest information and think 70 is good not understanding the vacuum source needs to be turned off and the system allowed to stand and decay But but anybody who already has purchased a refrigerant manifold with a micron meter knows it’s usually not possible to hit even 100 that fast you have to have a extremely dry system Your hoses have to be dry Your hoses are your biggest source of moisture and refrigerant, contamination, absorbed into the rubber surface of the wall of the hoses

@@saturno4236 nrdd you’re not doing flammable refrigerant. Unless you are doing flammable, refrigerants, propane or butane YF it is not a flammable refrigerant. It is barely a flammable refrigerant that is extremely difficult to get to ignite and as soon as you ignite it, if you take away the ignition source, it puts itself out

@@hashslinginhasher yes a lot of parts get replaced unnecessarily from not knowing And sometimes a lot of parts do not get replaced because of not knowing

@@freddyhollingsworth5945 if you have large refrigerator oil containers don’t open them. You drive a sharpened quarter inch fitting they come on copper rods and you can push them right through metal or plastic . You can now fill them with nitrogen to push out the refrigerant oil while never introducing outside air . And you can pour the 8 ounce bottles into metal injection syringes . For plastic syringes . There’s no air inside of them completely sealed as you push out refrigerant oil. It’s like a hyper dermic needle syringe no errors ever introduced.

@@freddyhollingsworth5945 the moisture that you have absorbed that contaminated your vacuum pump oil that you have pulled out of the car that was contaminated with moisture. It breaks the barrier seal between the rotor vein and the cylinder wall as it flashes off and vaporizes . Kinda like your engine, getting old and breaking down in viscosity think of it that way . You lose compression you lose power .

Argon’s perfect it’s even better than nitrogen It’s only the cost .

@@MACEVES yes it still makes a really big difference in timewise even though you’re pulling through because the SM 480 V refrigerant manifold has a very large in inside diameter manifold that is also half diameter leading to the end of two 1/4” hoses If you go over to the Facebook group Automotive HVAC technicians You’ll see other peoples comments what they have noticed from changing up to the big blue hose just for a vacuum hose to their gauges

@@coldfinger459sub0 yes sir, I'm already a member and been buying tools and following the procedures you have shown.

@@dporrasxtremeLS3 you’re welcome

@@elBusDriverKC you are correct this is definitely not for old men.

Not too old yet. Just cautious. But in all seriousness, do you haul that onto roofs for any HVAC work? Or is that a “ground unit”. I don’t think anybody will argue its effectiveness.

@@elBusDriverKC I have another one . Yes it goes up the roof for large VRF 20 ton to 60 ton heat recovery system I sell and my son and I install LG MUTI V

@@coldfinger459sub0 I mostly do light commercial so my systems are from the 5 to 20 tons. That big boy makes sense on 20 to 60 tons.

@@elBusDriverKC I have a video of me using one on a tiny little 9000 BTU mini split

@@NOsmoke24 trying to remember what video that was when I was probably talking about California air quality regulatory And I think the San Francisco Bay area has one called Bay Area, Air & water quality something like that California bureau of automotive repair They have a small section on their website about what they require on how to write up and service air conditioning related repairs. And then we have the good old EPA

It was a acronym ESA or something like that. Thx, I'll keep searching. Also had training videos I think.

@@Jonathan-gz6tu you may have a problem filling 100% with your small cans From the high side only. It can be done But if it’s your first time doing this high chance it’s not going to completely change. Probably stop after the first can. If you know and completely throughly understand the three gas laws you will succeed. If you don’t, you will fail. It’s that simple

@@coldfinger459sub0 awesome. Thanks for the response. I'll try to wrap my head around the gas law and see what happens. I guess if it won't take it all, I'll just connect the gauge set (or straight hose) and charge the rest as a gas through the low side with the car running.

@Jonathan-gz6tu yes if it does not take it all in you can finish it up like you say in vapor form gas through the low side with the car running.

I am in the same boat as you about two years ago. I watched Mr. Lech's videos religiously while working on my daughter's Volvo S60. I invested in the Fieldpiece SMAN 480 to get the 4th port and the micron gauge, per Mr. Lech's advice. Like you, I was charging with cans since I had not passed the test or been certified to purchase refrigerant in bulk. Like Mr. Lech said, I found the first can would not completely empty, even though I had pulled the vacuum well under 200 microns. I had to finally start the car and fill the remaining refrigerant with the A/C compressor running through the low side to finish the first can and a subsequent can.

@@zackarymcclain164 🤣👧⛳️

@@tobiastrotter6449 I never shit 💩 on this guy. I explained each and every fix and on how to prevent it from happening again. Other than his new name is . Mr Leaks 💦

@@tobiastrotter6449 I am actually taking this young technician to each one of these leaks and explain to him how each one occurred and what kind of mistake and how to prevent it in the future. I took this technician off to the side and literally explain to him the internal working of the expansion valve and what these external devices do and system functions I walked them from A-to-Z Hands on, and I keep repeating until he can repeat back to me, and he has learned it and understands I wait to see that lightbulb 💡 go on when he has that aha 🤔moment When I see, he’s interested in learning, I will spend all the time in the world with him

@@marvinpostadan3484 AUTOZONE 🤭 LIFETIME Warranty 🤣

@@markm0000 yes I know exactly what you’re talking about with all those connections But these connections in the scientific world in laboratories are proven time tested Of course one singular solid piece of metal properly welded and the word is properly Does have a much higher percentage of chance of near 0% failure rate But your micron gauge quickly tells you whether you were successful at all your connections or not . I’m walking somebody through right now to find out where they have been failing on their brand new manifold and refrigerant hoses After 18 hours of vacuum are not capable of getting below 350 µm There is definitely a problem in his rig one of his connections somewhere When he turns off the vacuum source, the vacuum decays to 29 inches .9 That is definitely a problem that is not moisture content And the thing is if somebody had a set of manifold gauges that were analog they would never know there’s a problem because 29.9 analog gauge needle will be pegged all the way to the end Only the micron gauge was capable of catching the problem

@@coldfinger459sub0 ok

@@sameermohammed3949 yes I do wanna make that video and I will post it when I do it. Amongst my 10,000 other projects

@@davidellingwood4075 we are allotted 1.4 hours total between setting up your equipment and all inspections and procedures, including vacuum to finish the job The ideas to reduce the moisture content as low as possible in the quickest time possible . Ron will tell you your level . Some vehicle manufactures have recommended maintenance time intervals to replace the desiccate material . Some manufactures do not . In some scenarios, especially if the vehicle could’ve been in a front end collision at a body shop and the refrigerant lines were removed and left open to the atmosphere for several days or weeks . It’s not feasible and it’s not possible to get what we would like to see within a given vacuum time . But that’s reality you have to work with . And other scenarios on a system that is clean and dry, has not been contaminated . World conditions, driest vehicles at the highest temperatures . it’s possible to get it down. It would be beautiful if you could get it under 500 µm but that’s not gonna happen in a used system within 10 minutes. A vacuum decay.. A brand new assembled from brand new parts that is possible . So under not normal shop operating conditions for a business you call it quits after an hour and charge it up . If a customer wants to pay the difference to have their desiccant material replaced, that is an option . but your micron gauge tells you your moisture level

@@coldfinger459sub0 that is helpful. Thank you.

@@woodway11 time is money. I’d rather spend 10 minutes on a vacuum, then one hour and still charge one hour minimum service Every service is between $379 and $800 max parts and material to be completed within 1.4 hours. I’d rather spend 10 minutes to reach my final vacuum because you still charge the same amount whether you spent 10 minutes or one hour. And you can do several extra jobs because of it . It’s the difference between the thinking of somebody in business where profit and losses have to do with time and somebody who An hourly paid blue-collar Walker, who doesn’t think about profits and losses of the business only a paycheck. We can still be making furniture using knives and saws by hand to carve out every piece of wood and hand fit them together, and we can still be weaving our own cotton wool to make fabric to cut and hand fit the furniture and handpick goose down feathers Or do we invest in equipment that can do this 100 times faster than a human being mass production . Would still be in the medieval ages .

Tall tree

@@freddyhollingsworth5945 it’s all done by time really fast. Just like they fill up Coca-Cola bottles in an assembly line PLCs control everything . If all components are exactly the same and all components are assembled the same no need for leak checking except periodically check quality control sample size Industrial sample size products are sampled so fast and so precisely .

@@freddyhollingsworth5945 it’s no different if the cylinders were filled with liquid. And you gave it a few short, eighth of a turn at a time with your hand into the liquid, was forced through the Reed valves And then you engaged at 100% afterwards You’re just clearing the cylinders using quick cycling

@@freddyhollingsworth5945 yes I made a lot of videos about this Some technicians figure this out for themselves when they noticed their machine oil recovery reservoir is unusually high after they finish the recovery

@@freddyhollingsworth5945 yes made many videos about oil getting stuck back into evaporator on low refrigerant charge Padding is to stop the absorption of engine heat .