Відео

@ajhaype Thanks for subscribing :) The thickness won't matter in the long run. This stuff melts and squishes out the excess. Whether it starts at 0.20mm or 0.25mm, it'll still end up around 0.038mm. This means that over 80% of the Phase Change Material will end up around the edges of the die. The most common thickness sold is 0.25mm. It's best paired woth Thermal Putty as a putty will compress easier than pads will. This will allow for a much thinner layer which usually gives you better temperatures and smaller delta between core and hotspot. It takes heat, pressure, and time to get thin, so keep that in mind. When you first boot up the laptop you will want to run some stress tests on CPU and GPU at same time. This is so that it will melt and fet thin for both at the same tine. Temps may look bad for 5-10 minutes but will improve. I like running the stress tests for 2 hours. This only needs to be done once. After that you'll still see gradual improvement over the next days/weeks.

@@snarksdomain thank you so much for the detailed answer. i hope many more people knows this channel your dedication on your channel is freakin awesome man. imma try to share your vid on my facebook. youre the best out there

I wouldn't buy Upsiren U6 Pro or UX Pro anymore. Upsiren UTP-8 is now the much better option. Better performance, lower cost than UX Pro, softer than UX Pro. Other good alternatives include Fehonda LTP81 (only slightly more expensive than UTP-8, Honeywell HT10000 (best putty, but 4x the cost as of December 2024). For laptops with gaps thinner than 0.5mm I recommend Halnziye HY236. For a laptop you will want to buy 20g. you might use 15g (How much I used when I recently redid this laptop with UTP-8.

@vicentiubucingeni www.printables.com/model/412662-zotac-3060ti-oc-and-nonoc-noctua-92mm-fan-deshroud This is the one I used. It's a remixed version of the one from Viceroy: www.printables.com/model/156834-zotac-3060-bracket-noctua-mod The only thing I'd suggest is to spend a bit of time looking for fans that either move a lot of air, or have a higher RPM. The ones I used didn't spin as fast as the stock Zotac fans, and cooling was worse. I then switched to a thicker 92mm fan that moves more air and it seem to work okay.

@yousseffilali4635 you shouldn't use a paste. Putty is designed to be a gap filler, whereas paste is only meant to fill microscopic imperfections. Putty is also cheaper per gram than paste most of the time. Whichever putty you get, you will want to buy 20g. You might use 15g. Currently the top picks for Putty are Honeywell HT10000, Upsiren UTP-8, and Fehonda LTP81. Of your laptop has gaps smaller than 0.5mm then I'd recommend Halnziye HY236 as it can compress thinner than the others. If you want to see how they all compare with one another than the charts are located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository > VRAM TIM > ETCHASH)

@@snarksdomain Thank you so much! I have searched for all the pastes you recommened but couldn't find them here. I found the UPSIREN Ultra 16.8w/mk Thermal Putty and UPSIREN 12.8w/mk Thermal Putty. Would any of those two work?

@yousseffilali4635 Your best bet is to search on Aliexpress. You'll likely find the best price per gram there. As an example, you can often buy 100g for ~$40 CAD. 20g should be around $10 CAD. For Honeywell HT10000 you would have to buy it from Eugenery-KH. You can also buy Fehonda putty directly from them by contacting them through their website, same with Halnziye. Be careful when looking at Upairen UX Pro and Upairen U6 Pro. There are 2 versions, one from Upsiren Chine (Aliexpress), and one from Computer Systems GR Greece (Amazon). There's an entire trademark war happening between the two companies. Feel free to watch one of my other videos explaining what's going on. ua-cam.com/video/xND1726G624/v-deo.html

@bishoysater10 You'll want to buy as least 50g. I used 44g on a 3070. Your card can likely be done with 50g. If you have a gaming laptops of Plasystation or XBOX then I'd recommend buying 100g so you have enough for them too. Laptops use less the 20g.

@NonLegitNation2 I recommend not bothering woth the fridge. Just cut a piece that is smaller by 3mm on all 4 sides, do first peel and lay it in place and rub your finger over it for a while to warm it up and press it onto the CPU/IHS. Once it's in place let it sit for a few minutes to cool back down (from your finger warming it up a bit). When you go for 2nd peel either use the plastic overhang they have or a piece of tape placed on one of the corners. When you peel it, don't pull the tape "up". Instead pull it back towards the opposite corner. I've got a couple video clips about it in the Discord. I need to make a short clip about it and post it on UA-cam as well.

Sí. Durará mucho tiempo, pero con IHS habrá una ganancia mínima de rendimiento con respecto a una pasta normal. Sigue siendo una excelente opción si no quieres tener que preocuparte por volver a pegar en el corto plazo. Tenga en cuenta si necesita derretirse bien la primera vez para adelgazar mucho. después de eso está bien. Intente llevar la CPU a una temperatura de entre 75 y 80 grados Celsius durante 2 horas para que se derrita bien. Después de eso no tienes que volver a hacerlo. Sólo una vez.

@Iasgair I'll have to get some for testing. Try not to focus too much of the specs or ratings of thermal pads. The industry is rife with exaggerating the w/mk ratings, and even the shore ratings for softness. At this point I consider such ratings to be pure marketing and not representative of the performance one can expect.

@snarksdomain I see, yeah that makes sense. Then I should probably pick Gelid, at least it's better than stock thermal pads lol. But I hope you can get around to test Cooler Master sometime, it would be interesting to see how it performs

@Iasgair honestly? I recommend considering getting Thermal Putty instead. so much softer, and usually cheaper than buying pads. Can buy 50g for arpund $20 CAD or less and do a whole card. You also get better core contact pressure, which can help achieve an ultra thin layer of Honeywell PTM7950, or similar Phase Change Material. Pads and paste are becoming a thing of the past. Putty and PTM/PCM is the new hotness.

@@snarksdomain I'll keep that in mind, thanks!

@Viggen66 lately CX-H1300 ba5ches have been perf93ming 2 degree worse than the results listed in the charts. Still a pretty well performing putty. There are 3 different Upsiren putties from Upsiren (Aliexpress). CX-H1300 is better than U6 Pro, but worse performing than UX Pro or UTP-8. Still, for the price, CX-H1300 is a great option. I haven't heard of Maxtonser. Is that the store you found it at? My recommendation would be to check store reviews and also see how many they ha e sold. Pick a store that has sold lots and has a good rating.

@horusmorus5588 I've used it with AIO's already and it works well enough. There isn't as much of a performance benefit with an IHS as there is with direct die applications. There would s5ill be a longevity benefit to it. One caution I'd add is that on an AM4 or older platform you would need to do the AMD recommended twist in the future if you ever remove the cooler/CPU block.

@kcuk123 all results are in the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository > VRAM TIM > ETCHASH). 910 is good putty. Certainly an improvement on their 607 which was already already a good putty. Competition is stiff at the top of the chart.

@SuperMaqgyver I would recommend picking a different putty than UX Pro. There are cheaper/better options, including Upsiren UTP-8 and Fehonda LTP81. That being said, UX Pro worked well on my laptop. I've since switched it to UTP-8 and will have an update video out soon. I managed to salvage the UX Pro after 16.5 months of use, and will use it for something else. Still soft enough to reshape/reuse.

@snarksdomain nice at first Following your matrix results also make me choose UTP-8. But when I see your benchmark using UX pro I want to try it. I think if UTP-8 is good enough for 14inch laptop, I'll follow your suggestion Thanks again!

@SuperMaqgyver UTP-8 outperforms UX Pro by 0.6 Degrees in my testing. It is superior to UX Pro in every way and is the latest iteration of Thermal Putty from Upsiren. The only putty that is better is Honeywell HT10000. Charts are located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository > VRAM TIM > ETCHASH)

@ironbootx You definitely can, but when the putty squishes it will fill the gaps between well on it's own. One of the benefits of going with the log method

@snarksdomain thanks

@haies09 I'd wait until temperatures or performance/clockspeeds are noticeably different. It one reason I prefer using a Phase Change Material instead, as it should have a much longer service life.

@ much appreciated 😊

@devanshanil2468 For laptop buy 20g, maybe use 15g Be sure to look at latest charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository > VRAM TIM > ETCHASH)

@shinotabi 50g for most GPU's. 75g for a 3090. 20g for laptop. Be sure to check the most recent charts at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository > VRAM TIM > ETCHASH)

@@snarksdomain thx 🙏🏽 oof that’s gonna hurt. Around 100€ in Germany for UX pro 40g.

@shinotabi that the wrong UX Pro. Maybe consider going Upsiren UTP-8, Fehonda LTP81, or even Honeywell HT10000 from. EUGENEY_KH (youtuber). Even CX-H1300 13.5w would be a good option. You can buy Fehonda pitties directly from the ma factures via their website contact. Same woth Halnziye putties. Also Laird T-Putty 607 is another good option (Moddiy) Or see if this listing ships to Germany? www.ebuy7.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=479964582804248 You could even go with Halnziye HY236 or HY256 directly from Halnziye.

@ironbootx Putty FTW. Feel free to check out the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). Zezzios is decent putty. There are better and worse. All on the charts. You'll want to buy 20g for a laptop. You might use ~15g.

@snarksdomain thanks for this. I appreciate

@tecnosalva14 I'd likely go woth either Upsiren UTP-8 or Fehonda LTP81 if the gaps are 0.5mm or larger. If they are smaller than 0.5mm, then I'd go with Halnziye HY236.

@snarksdomain Ty so much for the help

@CôngMinhPhạm-i3b if you are familiar with using outty and your laptop has gaps larger than 0.5mm then I'd pick CX-H1300 13.5w out of those two options. If this is your first time using outty or your laptop has gaps thinner than 0.5mm then ai'd pick Jeyi out of those 2. I'd personally go with either Upsiren UTP-8 or Halnziye HY236 for a laptop, de0ensing on ga0s thicknesses (UTP-8 for laptops with gaps 0.5mm or larger).

No estoy seguro del grosor. Si decide utilizar masilla, tal vez aplique la masilla sola, luego pruebe el ajuste y vuelva a desmontarla. Comprueba cómo se extiende la masilla y si tiene una cobertura total. Los guantes de tamaño completo funcionan mejor para troncos rodantes

@snarksdomain perdón por mi ignorancia que son los troncos rodantes jaja 🥲🥲

@@thecalagm6435 1:08 and 23:35

@3dollarsperfrown Your GPU hits 90C? It it's just the CPU hitting 90C that's more common in a laptop, but the GPU should be running cooler (ideally). Yeah PTM on CPU and GPU and putty on VRAM, VRM and coils. Check out the charts located at the Google Drive Link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). You'll want to buy 20g or putty (should cost you $15 or less)

Thank you so much ​@@snarksdomain

@millanferende6723 I believe a good putty should last longer than pads. This has been my experience with TG-PP10 remaining soft even after 2.5 years of use in a 3090 (with shims). A lot depends and the quality/stability of the base carrier fluid (typical Silicone Oil). There is a VAST range of Silicone oils with varying characteristics of viscosity but more importantly Flash Point and Boiling Point. The actual thermal boosters are quite stable for the most part. I have a theory about pads. I don't have data to back it up, this is just what I think might be going on: Pads experience compressive force their entire life while going through heating/cooling cycles. They are often Silicone oil based as well. They can't squish out the same way that a putty can. They ate designed to keep their shaoe/size. But the oil in them can potentially migrate in/out during heat cycles. I think this is why we sometimes see large puddles of oil on or around pads. Contrasting this, a Putty can move all as one during the heat cycle, and it also doesn't experience that compressive force the same way. It squishes and flows within the space it's provided. I can see this expansion of putty happen during the older Hotplate test videos I have. I think this ability to move as a mixture is why I don't see large puddles of oil on or around putty. I think this will make it last longer than a pad based on the same oil. I hope that explains my perspective of why I think Putty will last longer than Pads.

@bornagain2641 Right back at you mate! 😀

I can't get my Ali Express 50g x2 order to ship, but don't wanna go with CSGR. ugh...

​@@nerdynumen Aliexpress offers are for the Greek version.

@fluff5800 Plastic backplates do kinda suck for that. I likely wouldn't bother putty any putty on the backplate unless it's a metal one. I'd recommend.mwnd going with putty on the VRAM, VRM, and Coils. Basically anywhere there was a pad to begin with. For the core I'd recommend going with Honeywell PTM7950 sheet, or a similar Phase Change Material.

@rul1175 you'll likely use arpund 50g with backplate putty included. If you like, you can use the putty calculator at the Google Drive, if you happen to know how the factory pad sizes. It will tell you log diameters to roll and also how many grams of putty it will be.

@snarksdomain Def doing that with 100g of upsiren utp 8 + 21w upsiren 3mm pad for the backplate (30 euros shipped), and some p12 slim deshroud. Trying to squeeze my 6700xt to it's limit with a flashed 2950mhz bios. On all your video you use to spread the paste on the die, why don't you the big blod method on small die or sausage on rectangular big ones? Not a critique, just curios on your thoughts. Btw, would be really intresting to see your review upon the gd2 thermal paste off apx. I'm gonna buy some grams, because the review on "the overclok page" looks great.

@seregdor To be honest, aside from testing, I rarely use paste on cards when doing putty jobs. I mostly use Phase Change Materials. But for testing out the different putties and pads, I need to use something that doesn't require a burn-in/melt like PCM's do. I like spreading an even layer and putting a dot in the middle. I imagine the cooler making first contact on the middle dot and as it compresses it spreads out like a wave and prevents any air bubbles from forming. I suppose putting a large blob would work similar, but I like coating the whole surface. I try to keep things as consistent as possible for testing, so will continue using this method. So many ways to apply paste. Can't really go wrong as long as some is applied. Same goes for Phase Change Material sheets. Lots of ways to do it.

@seregdor I've got some GD-2, GD007, and GD900 I'll be testing at some point.

@@snarksdomain That does make indeed, also because changing method would imply retest everything. That would take a lifetime. Thanks to your advice and putty tutorial I manged to repaste my 6700Xt and temps are great know (like -4 on gpu temp, -7.2 on memory junction and -11 on hotspot). Oddly enough, repasting also reduced dramatically coil whine. Definetly wanna see more of your tests

@@SpAzMaNiK I currently recommend cutting it smaller than the die by about 3mm on all 4 sides. Makes 2nd peel much easier, and you still get full coverage as 80% of it flows out once it changes Phase.

I'd pick a different Putty than Upsiren UX Pro these days. There are cheaper and better options. Check out the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH) For Laptops: buy 20g For Videocards: Buy 50-100 grams. 50g will do most cards. Some cards like an RTX 3090 will need closer to 75g due tro VRAM on the backside.

@toonnut1 Aluminium. I added a link to the video description

@snarksdomain 👍

@T.Lspitz For cheap PTM7950 that may or may not be legit bit has good results go wirh Passionate Girl Store on Aliexpress. You can find what I assume to be legit stuff on LTT Store and Moddiy. As for the Stencil Print (Liquid/Syringe) type of PTM7950 and PTM7958, they work well too if you let the application dry/cure before mounting the cooler/heatsink. Cure Times: 25 Celsius 15 hours 50 Celsius 3.5 hours 80 Celsius 20 minutes 100 Celsius 2-3 minutes This allows for the solvent to evaporate off, leaving a solidified application of the material. Oncething to keep in mind woth SP type. Oncethe syringe is opened it will start to slowly dry inside the syringe. So after a year it might still come out of the syringe, but it will be firmer. I wouldn't expect to be able to squeeze it out after a couple years.

@T.Lspitz For best notifications you can join the Discord server if you like. I've got a video announcement channel that automatically spits out a head up each time.

@rul1175 I think you're talking about the U6 Pro video from 1.5 years ago. That video got deleted, but you can see the pictures of the aftermath on the UX Pro video. This video has the correct amount of putty. I've made a Putty Calculator folks can use to convert pad dimensions into log diameters of putty to use. It is also on the Google Drive (you can "Make A Copy" to use it).

@rul1175 No. That isn't how the cooler works. Pads or Putty are required to move the heat fr9m the VRAM, Mosfets and Coils to the Heat pipes and oflver to the fin stack where the blower style fans push air through to move heat out of the laptop. Not having an adequate Thermal Intwrface Matwrial for this job means that the laptop would get quite warm, and the components quite hot. That can cause damage at worst, or Thermal Throttling at the least.

@rul1175 This card is a 3070. As such it doesn't have Memory Junction Temeprature sensors. To see how different putties and pads compare with one another feel free to check out the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). The putty I used in this guide is Upsiren UTP-8.

Real

@gabber0208 No. This is meant to be used by itself, without Thermal Paste.

@snarksdomain alright i just ordered it couple hours ago, Looking forward to the experience

@gabber0208 I prefer using a Phase Change Material like PTM7950 myself. If going with Kryosheet I'd recommend coating any surrounding contacts with Conformal Coating to prevent any potential for electrical shorting.

@Name-tn3md results are on the charts located at the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). UTP-8 is currently the best putty from Upsiren. It's cheaper than UX Pro and softer as well.

@SuperMaqgyver I wouldn't recommend the 3D Gephite pads for a laptop. Too much moving it around during travel. If you did use them, I'd suggest using some Conformal Coating on the areas surrounding the VRAM. I personally think a good Thermal Putty is a better solution for laptops, especially considering they have GDDR6 and not GDDR6X.

@@snarksdomain thank you for the suggestion. It's really nice to get replied by the one who already experienced it. I think I will goes to the one at your top chart of thermal putty. all sharing really helped me

@cameltoeinspector6015 Good question. You basically have to ensure it remains lying flat. You could try cutting it oversized and use tape to keep it in place. I much prefer using PTM7950 over Kryosheet. I personally don't think Kryosheet is worth the risk (electrical). Also, it can only compress down to 0.1mm

@DragonXDrei I'd recommend cutting it smaller than the IHS and using tape or little sticker ti help peel it.

@snarksdomain I finally got around to use the Upsiren. I used it on my older OC 4.2Ghz i7 5820k with a dual fan Noctua D15. My Corsair H105 was keeping the CPU idle at about 45c, and would go beyond 80 to 100 under load, this was also just getting to the main menu of ESO. Assumed the AIO lost liquid or pump became faulty. When removed the old paste looked good, not dry. Was time for a change. I kep the sheet in the fridge. I used the bottom flat part, clear plastic from a fruit container to draw and cut out my CPU shape. Used that on the Upsiren sheet to cut out the shape with scissors, was only 5mm extra. Applied, run my finger over it, pulled with tweezers and done. Removed the extra 5mm. In order to get the CPU temps to over 60c, I turned down all fans to a minimum in the BIOS, so the Noctua was on passive mode. Left the computer switched on for an hour or so, but temps just wouldn't go higher than about 50c. Ran the CPUZ stress test, and that would barely get the temp to 60, so I left it running indefinitely to keep the temps close to 65. I then used the powerMAX app from CPUID to CPU stress test, temps started to go close to 80. Did that a couple of times then switched off. After a few hours, I powered on PC, and enabled smart fans and set the limits. Windows idle 35c, full load barely gets to 65c after 5 or so minutes, but as the fans start going past 70%, the temps go to about 60c and under, at full load. I will try with the fans at full power, but need to install the windows fan controller application, not that it is necessary, as the results speak for themselves. Only thing I must specify, the bag in which the sheet comes in, I couldn't take it out, had to cut the bag open. But since Honeywell gives you a nice plastic box, I put the remaining Upsiren in there. I have the Honeywell as a backup.

@DragonXDrei Nice work. I like that you put in the effort to get it to melt good. I agree about it being hard to get out of the bag. I must get warm during shipping sometimes. A little bit melts near the edge and makes it stick to the bag. These days I cut the piece smaller by 3mm on all 4 sides.

@@snarksdomain thanks, looks good so far but haven't had the chance to game or anything. You are definitely right about the side melting in the bag. I should have cut it shorter, I think I just wasted that 80x80mm sheet. Will only have enough for another 40mm application, unless I can combine bits. I'm currently waiting on black Friday to see if I can get a new CPU. Prices for the AMDs were better this summer. All X3D processors have doubled in price.

My current advice is to: 1. Cut a piece of paper until it is ~3mm smaller on all 4 sides of the die size. Use this paper as a template for cutting the PCM Sheet. 2. Cut the PCM sheet with scissors to the same size as that paper template. 3. Use 2 tiny stickers or pieces of tape on either side of the same corner and peel apart slowly. One side should peel off cleanly. Stop if it tear and try a different corner 4. Carefully lay the piece of PCM down on the silicon, and rub with finger to work out bubbles and make it stick to the silicon. Leave 2nd plastic film on for now. 5. Do anything else you need to do like pads/putty, etc. Let PCM cool back down for a couple minutes (from rubbing with finger). 6. Peel 2nd film at a sharp angle. Pull it towards the opposite corner, don't pull it 'up' 7. Assemble and get it up to 80 Celsius for 2 hours, adjusting fan speed as needed to keep it hot. This lets the excess flow out. 80% of the material will flow out, which is part of the reason to cut it smaller. the other reason is that it's easier to do 2nd peel. Trey not to worry about small bubbles. press them out if you can while 2nd film is still on, but it's not a huge deal. it'll get sorted out when most of it flows out.

@ 👏👏👏 epic response, brilliant advice. I’m deshrouding my AMD RX6950XT graphics card with noctua fans, and using PTM7950 and CX-H1300 putty. The stock temps aren’t too bad but I want to get the best I can for the longevity of the card because this is the last card that is supported for Hackintosh systems. I’ll let you know how it goes. I just have to wait for my putty to arrive next week. Your video guides have been invaluable and your comment here is the cherry on top. I really appreciate the help, thank you so much 👍

@RobertsFamily-ll8qf most certainly. Take a peak at the charts located on the Google Drive link in video description (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). You can usually get 100g of putty for arpund 35-45 CAD. Most cards use 50g or less, so you shouldn't need to spend more than $20 CAD per card. The. Add another couple dollars for PTM7950 and you should be all set for years.

@Bobabiba758 Did you feel resistance when turn that screw in? Any chance it is cross-threaded? If it screwed in smoothly then it should be okay I think.

@@snarksdomain I felt a bit of resistance. I figured out that too much of upsiren ultra on VRMs caused the pressured heatsink to apply pressure on that screw. I am going to remove extra putty from VRMs to remove pressure on heatsink. But that screw probably will still be detached from heatsink. I did not expect the putty to be that solid to be not squished by heatsink.

@@snarksdomain Thank you for your reply! You answered instantly to my comment!

@@Bobabiba758 UX Pro is not the ideal putty for laptops as it is stiffer than many of the others available. For Upsiren Putties the current go to is UTP-8 with matches/exceeds UX Pro performance, while be softer and cheaper. Laptops can be trickly to apply putty. You need to apply pressure manually to squeeze it.

@@snarksdomain I have repasted and reapplied thermal putty, I figured out that the bolt came out because plastic cover that was keeping it in the heatsink came off. I was not able to put plastic cover back because of spring’s force and just screwed that spring screw without plastic cover into the motherboard and it screwed great but there was a bit of resistance because of spring and now the screw hole is the only one keeping that spring compressed before that the plastic cover was keeping the spring compressed. I have another question. Is it okay to reuse upsirn ux pro as it was there just for 4 days and should I worry about the screw? Thank you very much for quick responses. I also figured out that my laptop which still has warranty was actually refurbished because as I was reassembling it 4 times, I saw some leftovers from previous people or technicians. I may get a new heatsink if I ask lenovo about that.