I've watched a few of your videos and you do a pretty good job explaining and demonstrating your own techniques ie. applying the putty. I am used to work with thermal pads for both GPUs and laptops which have always annoyed me but haven't really found any other good alternatives. I didn't even know about graphite pads and the putty until I saw it in one of your earlier videos. Interesting stuff. I've already placed an order for a batch of thermal putty so looking forward to test it out. thanx :)
Just discovered the channel and love everything you are doing! It's so refreshing to see someone performing actual experiments and documenting their process/findings instead of just spreading baseless opinions as fact! Do you know if the copper shims would be necessary with most aftermarket GPU waterblocks? The blocks I have used in the past have machined islands and pockets to better conform to the components than what appears on the stock cpu coolers you've shown in your videos. The EKWB vector2 3090ti block user manual only recommends 1.0mm thermal pads for the front side of their card. I'd be very interested in your opinion on this! My plan is to order either the TG-PP10 or TH930 putty for use with an EKWB waterblock on a new gtx4090 upon release. I've never had much success picking appropriate thermal pads in the past so I'm extremely excited about this putty! The TH949 looks incredible but I'm worried purchasing it direct from the manufacturer in something like a 500g quantity would be very expensive or would just annoy them? Also have you seen this new article from Igor's Lab about GPU thermal paste application? I figure it's kind of in your wheelhouse, many people seem to disagree with his findings but provide no evidence to backup up their claims. www.igorslab.de/en/blob-or-full-flat-heat-conducting-paste-on-the-gpu-correctly-applied/
I haven't delved into water blocks yet, but they seem to be machined with gap thickness in mind. You should be fine without copper shims I would think, although you could always install some later on if you had bad temps. If you were only doing one card I'd likely recommend Jeyi 8100 putty as it can be bought in small quantities and has slightly better performance than TG-PP10 and TH930. I believe Penchem will be listing more putties on Digikey soon so it's quite likely it will be more accessible by the time the 40 series comes our, and not a moment too soon. As we get high TGP cards and GDDR6X running at 23 Gbps we are going to see some higher temps I would think. Card manufacturers are going to have to step out their TIM game significantly over the 30 series. As for that paste test, I will read it further before I comment on it. It is interesting to see such a short test time. I may have to create a test and have some thoughts on possibilities already. I'll hopefully be testing Upsiren U6 Pro putty soon as well.
@@snarksdomain Thank you, somehow I overlooked the Jeyi 8100 performance while reading your graphs. Do you happen to have a link to it? My google and aliexpress foo have failed me entirely in finding it for sale and I didn't see an affiliate link for it on your videos? With EKWB only calling for 1mm thermal pads for use with their waterblock on the 3090ti I suppose I would end up using extremely thin copper shims along with the thermal putty, perhaps 0.5mm or so to play it safe? Is there an "optimum" thickness ratio of copper to putty you have found? I'm excited about the possibilities of you testing Igor's theory! Keep being awesome!
@@blaine3384 Thanks Blaine. With a 1mm gap, and it being water cooled, I'd think you could just use putty and no shims. That being said it could be worthwhile to experiment with 0.25mm copper foil and then 0.5mm copper foil if temps were still bad with 0.25mm foil. I would not exceed 0.6mm copper with a 1mm gap design. Going any closer could make it hard to squeeze the putty out and may compromise die contact. The important thing to keep in mind is that the more cooler access you give to the VRAM, the warmer the Core could be. But, with a well designed custom loop and adequate radiator(s) and airflow you should be able to mitgage core temp issues while still improving VRAM temps. The putty will be especially useful in areas with lots of tiny components, like over the back of the core with all those tiny components (in an active backplate scenario) Disclaimer: I have not yet watercooled a GPU. That's isn't to suggest it's not worthwhile, I just haven't done it yet. I always had a limited budget when purchasing a core component upgrade to my old Thermaltake Xaser III Super Tower case. I typically would get the best GPU I could afford and buy an entry level CPU and OC it in air as far as I could, occasionally achieving a 100% core frequency overclock.
@@blaine3384 so far the cheapest Jeyi putty I've found and purchased/received is here: a.aliexpress.com/_mtzTfvI Each tiny container comes with 10-12g but calculate off 10g. For a typical card you could use 50-70 grams. Possible.more for a 3090 with VRAM on backside. I would buy more than you need. It is also a bit difficult to apply with a little spatulas, but short of buying a large quantity and having it all in an Incing Pipjng bag the little spatula may be the best way. It's a little too sticky to apply with gloved hands.
@@snarksdomain Thank you for the detailed response and the links to the Jeyi 8100, I would have never found it! I'm excited to give all of this a try once the new hardware drops. I managed to find some 0.5mm copper foil on amazon I'll likely experiment with, 0.25mm seems harder to source in a non-adhesive backed form but I've got plenty of time to keep looking. No concerns about overwhelming the cooling system, i'll have 2-3x 360mm radiators internally and an additional 560mm radiator mounted to the bottom side of my desk this go around. I'm excited to see how the Upsiren U6 Pro performs next!
It is exactly that. An Icing Piping Bag with a ~5mm tip, typically used to decorate cakes. I tried a large syringe but this piping bag is the easiest and cleanest method I have found so far, and fairly easy to reload. When not in use I place the loaded piping bag into a zip lock bag.
Love your videos! I have a few questions though. 1: Is there a reason why you put pads on the memory and not putty? In principle is it possible to use putty on both VRMs & the memory? 2: I am going to use JEYI putty on my GPU (Strix 1080 ti), would you recommend putting paste first on the memory / VRMs and then put putty to increase thermal interface, or is that a stupid idea? 3: Is there anything that can be done to increase JEYI putty lifespan? On the website it says about 6 months after application. Is it safe to stay longer than that? Since I don't want to pop open my GPU every 6 months to replace the putty. Cheers!
1) I've done just putty in the past to decent effect. This test was to see how effective these 3D Graphite pads were. They seem pretty good. 2) I wouldn't use any thermal paste on the VRAM or VRM's. Putty does everything you want it to in that scenario. It spreads and makes great contact like a paste, but doesn't bake and dry out (or pump out) like a paste. 3) The 6 months is just a shelf life rating, and even then I doubt you would have any issues using it out of the package then. You really only need to reopen your card once the GPU die paste needs to be changed. I will add that a single tin of Jeyi Putty (10g) is not enough for a card. I would recommend getting at least 5 or 6 of them. You can usually find them for ~$4 each.
It's definitely knocking on the door of Copper Shims performance wise. I will test further both on the hotplate and on this 3070ti. One aspect that will need to be considered is the longevity of the copper shims themselves vs these pads. To my understanding these pads may pull apart when a card is disassembled. The only reason to pull the card apart being the need to eventually replace thermal paste. Now if you use quality thermal paste and keep the core temp cool you can likely expect a long happy life, likely at least 2 years (rating of the pads). I'm not convinced the pads go bad at that time but we won't have that data for years. I plan to use this card to test out all sorts of pads so will need to buy a set for a card for a long term test and then can document performance over the years.
I'm not yet familiar with those. If it is pure Aluminium Nitride then they should work quite well since it's Thermal Conductivity may be as high as 321 W/mK and it's also an Electrical Insulator. I'd still of course use 1.5 or 1.6mm thickness and putty on either side if going that route. I'll see if I can find some.
What was the stock thermal pad size and how many mm 3d you used? I have 3090 OC variant of this card. Can I flash my vbios to increase my power budget a bit for vrams? After my vram moddings are completed
The stock pads were ~2mm which were compressed down to ~1.8mm. I used 2.2mm 3D pads. It's possible you might be able to apply more power to your VRAMs but I'm betting you'll see an increased stable overclock just based on better thermals and more efficient flow of electrons at the lower temps. I haven't modded VBIOS before so that's out of my realm of expertise. I mostly dabbled in overclocking air cooled CPU's and RAM in the past.
@@snarksdomain I see thanks. I ordered 2.2mm graph. pads now. And putty by upsiren. Also coppers already ordered they should be there in 12 days. Let me save my 3090 from 102C vram temps..
do these degrade? What about electrical conductivity? I think i will keep my 3080's with copper mod + tgpp10 Core temperature increases due to heat transfer from the vram to core as well, 5/6 degrees more is no problem compared with -20/-30c on vram, keep going! I will never replace this putty as it won't sell no more, this is probably going to last forever and will use this in next cards to come.
The 3D Graphite pads are rated for 2 years, although I think they will still be effective linger than that. The weak point would be the thermal paste on the core in my opinion. These pads, if torn apart and the raw graphite/graphene is exposed then there is an electrical conductivity risk. These are great pads for the experienced GPU disassembled who can get them placed perfectly and not need to disassemble the card for a couple years. As for TG-PP10, there are now equivalent and better options if you do ever need to get new putty. For an equivalent product look to Penchem TH930 and you will be happy to find the same thermal results and consistency. For improved thermal performance you can get Penchem TH855-5, Jeyi 8100, or Penchem TH949-1 or very likely TH949-3 (I still need to test TH949-3).
i just had a really wild, nuts idea. how absorbant-ish do the 'expanded Foam'-ness of Graphite Pads seem to be? could it be 'absorbant' enough to maybe soak up some Liquid Metal? there's a lot of Surface Area to a Foam structure after all, maybe it'll hold it even after receiving some pressure.... 🤔 if it does actually hold the LM inside of it, that could do some fun things for performance. but that's also an insane and risky idea, so....
So, super cool idea, I love ideas like this. It does seem like you could get some liquid metal in around the folds of Graphite film. I'm not sure "absorb" would be correct, perhaps more like "fill in the gaps". I think one factor may contribute to it not getting a large improvement. Graphite film conducts heat really quickly in one axis, but not the other. So the best shape for the film is to be scrunched together similar to a filter (zig-zag) between the two contact surfaces. It would be interesting to put some of these pads inside a vacuum chamber, submerged in LM, and suck all the air out, then release vacuum and let it pull the LM in. If this was done, then it would be worthwhile reporting all sides with PCM to try seal in the LM. My gut says this would be difficult to pull off, and the PCM/PTM would melt around 45 Celcius, so LM could leak out. It would still be cool to see this in controlled scenario where all the parts were protected with nail polish, conformal coating, or liquid Kapton. Would this outperform shims and Upsiren UX Pro? Hard to say.
No for both the 3D Graphite pads and TG-PP10. You will want to use non conductive thermal paste like MX-4 or Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on both the CPU and GPU die As for the VRAM, VRM and caps of the GPU I would likely go with a putty like Jeyi 8100, TH930 or TG-PP10 as they are all sticky enough to handle the flexing and compressing that your laptop might experience during travel. While the 3D Graphite pads work phenomenally for GDDR6X VRAM in desktop GPU's it's not ideal for laptops where currently only GDDR6 memory is found (to the best of my knowledge). Even if there are laptops with GDDR6X VRAM I would likely not use 3D Graphite pads in that scenario due to potential to over compress or have it flex back and forth over time and duress the Graphene/Graphite Film.
I'll see if I can borrow the card and test it out again to check on temperatures. I might even open it back up and swap the MX-4 for Phase Change Material and convert it over to a higher end putty everywhere on the card. Will salvage the TG-PP10 if I do that.
@@0xNobody it's best to gradually tighten the core screws in a star pattern until they stop turning. Once they stop, be sure NOT to try tightening further. These are delicate screws and can break if forced past where they stop.
@@0xNobody tightening with a screwdriver. The screws will make a definite stop once tightened all the way. It's likely best to watch a couple disassembly instructional videos before you try it. **No power tools
The Thermal Putty isn't and is safe to use right on the PCB of the GPU. The 3D Graphite pads have an insulating coating on them to prevent conducting electricity in the event of improper installation. If that coating was rubbed off during handling and you weren't careful when installing onto the GDDR6X memory then you could run into issues. Graphite/Graphene does conduct electricity very well. These pads are extremely light and the coating is sticky. Once properly installed they won't move around at all. Just takes some precision during install, and a light press to fix it in place. Just be careful not to press to hard and over compress it. The only putty I've tested so far that conducts electricity is TG-NSP80. Avoid using it on a GPU.
@@SilvaTeixeira009 These 3D Graphite pads are specifically designed for GDDR6X. They would be overkill for GDDR6 VRAM as it runs much cooler. If you like you can check out my video which compares pads/putty/shims performance. ua-cam.com/video/zSX_7P0HZqc/v-deo.html
@@SilvaTeixeira009 it's honestly a tough decision for what thermal pads are "best" for you. I really like Thermal Putty. It doesn't have the compression issues that pads do. I started off wanting to use Gelid Ulti.ate pads, then Gelid Extreme pads, and had compression issues with both, and also some sucess with Gelid Extreme's. I didn't like the inconsistency of success. Pads aren't cheap and I burned through a couple sets before realizing the base problem. We have to ensure contact of 4 different components with sometimes 4-5 different pad thicknesses all while ensuring contact between the core and the coldplate. For that reason I'm moved onto either Shims + Putty (for GDDR6X cards), or just Putty (for GDDR6 cards). It just compresses so easily and avoids the main issues with pads altogether. It also last longer than pads do. If you go on the high end of putty, like TH949-1, then it also outperforms all pads with the exception of the 3D Graphite pads. So for me Putty is the winner both in ease of use, and performance. It's also the perfect match for shims, where paste has some major issues of baking/drying/pumping out.
I've watched a few of your videos and you do a pretty good job explaining and demonstrating your own techniques ie. applying the putty. I am used to work with thermal pads for both GPUs and laptops which have always annoyed me but haven't really found any other good alternatives. I didn't even know about graphite pads and the putty until I saw it in one of your earlier videos. Interesting stuff. I've already placed an order for a batch of thermal putty so looking forward to test it out. thanx :)
Welcome to #TeamPutty. Which thermal putty did you decide to order?
@@snarksdomain I went for a can of Zezzio ZT-PY6. I have no idea if it's a good choice or not. Have you tested this brand?
Just discovered the channel and love everything you are doing! It's so refreshing to see someone performing actual experiments and documenting their process/findings instead of just spreading baseless opinions as fact!
Do you know if the copper shims would be necessary with most aftermarket GPU waterblocks? The blocks I have used in the past have machined islands and pockets to better conform to the components than what appears on the stock cpu coolers you've shown in your videos. The EKWB vector2 3090ti block user manual only recommends 1.0mm thermal pads for the front side of their card. I'd be very interested in your opinion on this! My plan is to order either the TG-PP10 or TH930 putty for use with an EKWB waterblock on a new gtx4090 upon release. I've never had much success picking appropriate thermal pads in the past so I'm extremely excited about this putty! The TH949 looks incredible but I'm worried purchasing it direct from the manufacturer in something like a 500g quantity would be very expensive or would just annoy them?
Also have you seen this new article from Igor's Lab about GPU thermal paste application? I figure it's kind of in your wheelhouse, many people seem to disagree with his findings but provide no evidence to backup up their claims. www.igorslab.de/en/blob-or-full-flat-heat-conducting-paste-on-the-gpu-correctly-applied/
I haven't delved into water blocks yet, but they seem to be machined with gap thickness in mind. You should be fine without copper shims I would think, although you could always install some later on if you had bad temps.
If you were only doing one card I'd likely recommend Jeyi 8100 putty as it can be bought in small quantities and has slightly better performance than TG-PP10 and TH930.
I believe Penchem will be listing more putties on Digikey soon so it's quite likely it will be more accessible by the time the 40 series comes our, and not a moment too soon.
As we get high TGP cards and GDDR6X running at 23 Gbps we are going to see some higher temps I would think.
Card manufacturers are going to have to step out their TIM game significantly over the 30 series.
As for that paste test, I will read it further before I comment on it. It is interesting to see such a short test time. I may have to create a test and have some thoughts on possibilities already.
I'll hopefully be testing Upsiren U6 Pro putty soon as well.
@@snarksdomain Thank you, somehow I overlooked the Jeyi 8100 performance while reading your graphs. Do you happen to have a link to it? My google and aliexpress foo have failed me entirely in finding it for sale and I didn't see an affiliate link for it on your videos?
With EKWB only calling for 1mm thermal pads for use with their waterblock on the 3090ti I suppose I would end up using extremely thin copper shims along with the thermal putty, perhaps 0.5mm or so to play it safe? Is there an "optimum" thickness ratio of copper to putty you have found?
I'm excited about the possibilities of you testing Igor's theory! Keep being awesome!
@@blaine3384 Thanks Blaine. With a 1mm gap, and it being water cooled, I'd think you could just use putty and no shims. That being said it could be worthwhile to experiment with 0.25mm copper foil and then 0.5mm copper foil if temps were still bad with 0.25mm foil. I would not exceed 0.6mm copper with a 1mm gap design. Going any closer could make it hard to squeeze the putty out and may compromise die contact.
The important thing to keep in mind is that the more cooler access you give to the VRAM, the warmer the Core could be. But, with a well designed custom loop and adequate radiator(s) and airflow you should be able to mitgage core temp issues while still improving VRAM temps. The putty will be especially useful in areas with lots of tiny components, like over the back of the core with all those tiny components (in an active backplate scenario)
Disclaimer: I have not yet watercooled a GPU. That's isn't to suggest it's not worthwhile, I just haven't done it yet. I always had a limited budget when purchasing a core component upgrade to my old Thermaltake Xaser III Super Tower case. I typically would get the best GPU I could afford and buy an entry level CPU and OC it in air as far as I could, occasionally achieving a 100% core frequency overclock.
@@blaine3384 so far the cheapest Jeyi putty I've found and purchased/received is here:
a.aliexpress.com/_mtzTfvI
Each tiny container comes with 10-12g but calculate off 10g. For a typical card you could use 50-70 grams. Possible.more for a 3090 with VRAM on backside. I would buy more than you need.
It is also a bit difficult to apply with a little spatulas, but short of buying a large quantity and having it all in an Incing Pipjng bag the little spatula may be the best way. It's a little too sticky to apply with gloved hands.
@@snarksdomain Thank you for the detailed response and the links to the Jeyi 8100, I would have never found it! I'm excited to give all of this a try once the new hardware drops. I managed to find some 0.5mm copper foil on amazon I'll likely experiment with, 0.25mm seems harder to source in a non-adhesive backed form but I've got plenty of time to keep looking. No concerns about overwhelming the cooling system, i'll have 2-3x 360mm radiators internally and an additional 560mm radiator mounted to the bottom side of my desk this go around. I'm excited to see how the Upsiren U6 Pro performs next!
Does the Thermal Putty applicator have a name or is just a silicone globe? Looks very similar to the applicator used to spread cream on cakes. Regards
It is exactly that. An Icing Piping Bag with a ~5mm tip, typically used to decorate cakes. I tried a large syringe but this piping bag is the easiest and cleanest method I have found so far, and fairly easy to reload.
When not in use I place the loaded piping bag into a zip lock bag.
@@snarksdomain Can guess that you need a lot more pressure with syringe plunger. Thanks for the reply
Love your videos! I have a few questions though.
1: Is there a reason why you put pads on the memory and not putty? In principle is it possible to use putty on both VRMs & the memory?
2: I am going to use JEYI putty on my GPU (Strix 1080 ti), would you recommend putting paste first on the memory / VRMs and then put putty to increase thermal interface, or is that a stupid idea?
3: Is there anything that can be done to increase JEYI putty lifespan? On the website it says about 6 months after application. Is it safe to stay longer than that? Since I don't want to pop open my GPU every 6 months to replace the putty.
Cheers!
1) I've done just putty in the past to decent effect. This test was to see how effective these 3D Graphite pads were. They seem pretty good.
2) I wouldn't use any thermal paste on the VRAM or VRM's. Putty does everything you want it to in that scenario. It spreads and makes great contact like a paste, but doesn't bake and dry out (or pump out) like a paste.
3) The 6 months is just a shelf life rating, and even then I doubt you would have any issues using it out of the package then. You really only need to reopen your card once the GPU die paste needs to be changed.
I will add that a single tin of Jeyi Putty (10g) is not enough for a card. I would recommend getting at least 5 or 6 of them. You can usually find them for ~$4 each.
@@snarksdomain Thanks for the quick reply mate! Keep up the cool videos :)
this is very good this is as good as copper mod but i guess less risky and messy.
It's definitely knocking on the door of Copper Shims performance wise. I will test further both on the hotplate and on this 3070ti.
One aspect that will need to be considered is the longevity of the copper shims themselves vs these pads.
To my understanding these pads may pull apart when a card is disassembled. The only reason to pull the card apart being the need to eventually replace thermal paste.
Now if you use quality thermal paste and keep the core temp cool you can likely expect a long happy life, likely at least 2 years (rating of the pads). I'm not convinced the pads go bad at that time but we won't have that data for years.
I plan to use this card to test out all sorts of pads so will need to buy a set for a card for a long term test and then can document performance over the years.
will you try the ALN or Aluminum Nitride pads in the future? Just wondering how well will it perform.
I'm not yet familiar with those. If it is pure Aluminium Nitride then they should work quite well since it's Thermal Conductivity may be as high as 321 W/mK and it's also an Electrical Insulator.
I'd still of course use 1.5 or 1.6mm thickness and putty on either side if going that route. I'll see if I can find some.
What was the stock thermal pad size and how many mm 3d you used? I have 3090 OC variant of this card. Can I flash my vbios to increase my power budget a bit for vrams? After my vram moddings are completed
The stock pads were ~2mm which were compressed down to ~1.8mm. I used 2.2mm 3D pads.
It's possible you might be able to apply more power to your VRAMs but I'm betting you'll see an increased stable overclock just based on better thermals and more efficient flow of electrons at the lower temps.
I haven't modded VBIOS before so that's out of my realm of expertise. I mostly dabbled in overclocking air cooled CPU's and RAM in the past.
@@snarksdomain I see thanks. I ordered 2.2mm graph. pads now. And putty by upsiren. Also coppers already ordered they should be there in 12 days. Let me save my 3090 from 102C vram temps..
do these degrade? What about electrical conductivity? I think i will keep my 3080's with copper mod + tgpp10
Core temperature increases due to heat transfer from the vram to core as well, 5/6 degrees more is no problem compared with -20/-30c on vram, keep going! I will never replace this putty as it won't sell no more, this is probably going to last forever and will use this in next cards to come.
The 3D Graphite pads are rated for 2 years, although I think they will still be effective linger than that. The weak point would be the thermal paste on the core in my opinion.
These pads, if torn apart and the raw graphite/graphene is exposed then there is an electrical conductivity risk. These are great pads for the experienced GPU disassembled who can get them placed perfectly and not need to disassemble the card for a couple years.
As for TG-PP10, there are now equivalent and better options if you do ever need to get new putty.
For an equivalent product look to Penchem TH930 and you will be happy to find the same thermal results and consistency.
For improved thermal performance you can get Penchem TH855-5, Jeyi 8100, or Penchem TH949-1 or very likely TH949-3 (I still need to test TH949-3).
i just had a really wild, nuts idea.
how absorbant-ish do the 'expanded Foam'-ness of Graphite Pads seem to be?
could it be 'absorbant' enough to maybe soak up some Liquid Metal? there's a lot of Surface Area to a Foam structure after all, maybe it'll hold it even after receiving some pressure.... 🤔
if it does actually hold the LM inside of it, that could do some fun things for performance.
but that's also an insane and risky idea, so....
So, super cool idea, I love ideas like this. It does seem like you could get some liquid metal in around the folds of Graphite film. I'm not sure "absorb" would be correct, perhaps more like "fill in the gaps".
I think one factor may contribute to it not getting a large improvement. Graphite film conducts heat really quickly in one axis, but not the other. So the best shape for the film is to be scrunched together similar to a filter (zig-zag) between the two contact surfaces.
It would be interesting to put some of these pads inside a vacuum chamber, submerged in LM, and suck all the air out, then release vacuum and let it pull the LM in.
If this was done, then it would be worthwhile reporting all sides with PCM to try seal in the LM.
My gut says this would be difficult to pull off, and the PCM/PTM would melt around 45 Celcius, so LM could leak out.
It would still be cool to see this in controlled scenario where all the parts were protected with nail polish, conformal coating, or liquid Kapton.
Would this outperform shims and Upsiren UX Pro? Hard to say.
@@snarksdomain
ooh yeah, pulling a Vacuum is a good idea.
should I use it directly on laptop CPU and GPU?
No for both the 3D Graphite pads and TG-PP10.
You will want to use non conductive thermal paste like MX-4 or Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on both the CPU and GPU die
As for the VRAM, VRM and caps of the GPU I would likely go with a putty like Jeyi 8100, TH930 or TG-PP10 as they are all sticky enough to handle the flexing and compressing that your laptop might experience during travel.
While the 3D Graphite pads work phenomenally for GDDR6X VRAM in desktop GPU's it's not ideal for laptops where currently only GDDR6 memory is found (to the best of my knowledge). Even if there are laptops with GDDR6X VRAM I would likely not use 3D Graphite pads in that scenario due to potential to over compress or have it flex back and forth over time and duress the Graphene/Graphite Film.
How are the pads holding up over time?
I'll see if I can borrow the card and test it out again to check on temperatures. I might even open it back up and swap the MX-4 for Phase Change Material and convert it over to a higher end putty everywhere on the card. Will salvage the TG-PP10 if I do that.
@@snarksdomain sounds like a great idea. If it works out it should make a great follow up.
jesus i need to spent alot in cooling for my itx casing.
I want this done to my 3080 FE, to scared to do it though.
Perhaps I'll test this combo out on a 3080 FE.
I've got an older video where I use Putty on a 3080 FE. ua-cam.com/video/gcTjRgoJK0I/v-deo.html
@@snarksdomain you take orders? 😊
is it ok if I just do an X with the paste?
It is okay. Lots of people do. How you apply thermal paste is a personal preference thing so would encourage you to do it how you want to.
@@snarksdomain one more thing, when tightening around the die, when do you stop?
@@0xNobody it's best to gradually tighten the core screws in a star pattern until they stop turning. Once they stop, be sure NOT to try tightening further.
These are delicate screws and can break if forced past where they stop.
@@snarksdomain hmmm finger tightening or normal tightening?
@@0xNobody tightening with a screwdriver. The screws will make a definite stop once tightened all the way.
It's likely best to watch a couple disassembly instructional videos before you try it.
**No power tools
is it electrical conductor?
The Thermal Putty isn't and is safe to use right on the PCB of the GPU.
The 3D Graphite pads have an insulating coating on them to prevent conducting electricity in the event of improper installation. If that coating was rubbed off during handling and you weren't careful when installing onto the GDDR6X memory then you could run into issues. Graphite/Graphene does conduct electricity very well.
These pads are extremely light and the coating is sticky. Once properly installed they won't move around at all. Just takes some precision during install, and a light press to fix it in place. Just be careful not to press to hard and over compress it.
The only putty I've tested so far that conducts electricity is TG-NSP80. Avoid using it on a GPU.
@@snarksdomain I'm a little scared, it's for my AMD RADEON RX 6900 XT, maybe I'll buy silicone.
@@SilvaTeixeira009 These 3D Graphite pads are specifically designed for GDDR6X. They would be overkill for GDDR6 VRAM as it runs much cooler.
If you like you can check out my video which compares pads/putty/shims performance.
ua-cam.com/video/zSX_7P0HZqc/v-deo.html
@@snarksdomain what do you advise for my gpu (thermal pads)? and thermal paste which one is best for gpu? I'm using Mastergel maker nano.
@@SilvaTeixeira009 it's honestly a tough decision for what thermal pads are "best" for you.
I really like Thermal Putty. It doesn't have the compression issues that pads do. I started off wanting to use Gelid Ulti.ate pads, then Gelid Extreme pads, and had compression issues with both, and also some sucess with Gelid Extreme's. I didn't like the inconsistency of success.
Pads aren't cheap and I burned through a couple sets before realizing the base problem. We have to ensure contact of 4 different components with sometimes 4-5 different pad thicknesses all while ensuring contact between the core and the coldplate.
For that reason I'm moved onto either Shims + Putty (for GDDR6X cards), or just Putty (for GDDR6 cards). It just compresses so easily and avoids the main issues with pads altogether. It also last longer than pads do.
If you go on the high end of putty, like TH949-1, then it also outperforms all pads with the exception of the 3D Graphite pads.
So for me Putty is the winner both in ease of use, and performance. It's also the perfect match for shims, where paste has some major issues of baking/drying/pumping out.