A toothbrush and iso works great for cleaning pad or putty residue. Just curious, what was the purpose of the conformal coating? As a sidenote, I think it makes the data easier to read and compare when temps are shown as the delta over ambient. For measuring temps, I think it's best to let the card heatsoak and reach steady state, then reset HWinfo and let it monitor for a set amount of time (maybe 10-20 min), then use the average temps as your datapoints. It's easier to control for ambient over a shorter period of time. Also it would be interesting to see more 3D benchmarks, since the load is more varied and you should see higher hotspot temps. It may show more favor to PTM.
Good point on resetting HWINFO after reaching steady thermals, and then wotching ambient for those ~20 minutes. You're likely right about delta being more representative of relative performance. I'll likely list that in another column. As for the Conformal Coating, I wanted to give the card a decent protective layer for dust/dirt/fluids/vibration for the life of the card. In this video it wasn't truly necessary, but I thought I would include it in the video anyways. I've also done this to my testbench card. This should prevent me from needing to use Kapton tape in most test applications and I'm hoping it will also make the card easier to clean between tests, as well as lower wear and tear. My test card has been re-padded/puttied quite a few times now.
@@snarksdomain it's fucking delicious. Nah doesn't help it crisp up, but it can help stop it from overcooking and drying out, I throw in a spoonful near the end.
for the 7950 did you run some benches and whanot to let the PCM heat cycle a few times and "cure" over 24h? 7950 tends to perform better next day and improves slightly with time.
Just the few tests before I put it back into his PC. Diablo 4 priorities. Perhaps I'll be able to borrow it and test it out again in a few weeks around the ~1 month mark and report back. From my testing on my Laptop, Phase Change Material definitely gets better in the shirt term. Will do long term testing as well.
Could you repeat the test with carbonaught pads vs carbonaught pads + good thermal paste. The reason being that the sheet does a good job of filling the gap when there isn't good and even contact, additionally the paste does a better job of mating the surfaces (fills more of the tiny pores) for increased thermal transfer. Would a carbonaught sheet perform better, if coated in thermal paste? Would it be better to just use extra thermal paste (when the surfaces are exceptionally non-flat) rather than using a space-filling thing like a sheet of carbonaught. For a specific example of a card that has this curious problem, take a look at a Radeon VII. Apparently the heatsink and the die of the Radeon VII don't have the best flatness, and additionally the heatsink doesn't get sufficiently close to the die either, even if you lapped the surfaces, there would be a large gap that, for example, liquid metal would be a poor use case for, because it's too thin. Gamers Nexus has 2 videos showing that the Radeon VII has poor surface contact with its cooler that you could check out. Apparently the manufacturers of the Radeon VIIs were aware of the larger gap size and they used a very thick (and sticky) graphite based pad to fill the gap.
Something like that may work for a Radeon VII. I went with just a sheet of Phase Change Material instead on the Radeon. It was 0.2mm thick and can melt and compress down as needed. It seems to have worked well. My temperatures were about 3 degree cooler than the stock sticky pad (which was fairly old). The Carbonaut pads would only work for a core application. It would be quite costly to make enough sandwich layers of carbonaut and paste for the VRAM.
Great vid. Any tips on pulling off the film on the PTM 7950 pads after cut? It always tears when I do it, haven't managed to get such a clean pull as you. Also can you test some other thermal putty, Zezzio ZT-PY6 and CX-H1300 claimed to perform on par with U6 Pro (if you compare W/mK). The CX-H1300 is particularly interesting because it is about 5 USD for 50g, that being said U6 pro is 15 USD for 50g (I live in South East Asia so the shipping isn't as much).
For peeling the film I'm now using 2 of the supplied tape strips and attaching them to either side at a corner. Only 1 of the films will peel off during the first step. Then carefully positioning in place. Once in the correct place I go over it with a finger and firm pressure. You can shine a flashlight (phone or other) at an a gle and look for any larger bubbles and work those out if you can. Once you are satisfied with it you can try using that 2nd tape strip at the corner and carefully peeling it back. This last peel takes finess as the sheet is not firmly clinging to the CPU/GPE die. I've still been using precision slant tweezers to peel last film. Placing of the cooler on to the CPU will also take some precision. I'd probably recommend to remove GPU so that you have the space you need to use both hands. Motherboard or case should be lying flat so that you can carefully lower the cooler down onto it. Unlike thermal paste, you need to get it perfectly centered on first contact. With paste it's always easy enough to shimmy it around even after the cooler makes first contact. Woth phase change sheet it could tear apart a bit if you move/twist the cooler during this time.
it's always nice to see affirmations of your own general experiences - that adding Paste to Pads doesn't seem to make them worse. but uh, i mean, why **wouldn't** you use Paste smeared Thermal Pads longterm? it's not like this is a much worse scenario or something, the Paste on the Core gets hot, so it's basically the same scenario if you ask me. and if it's okay on the Core, then i don't see why it wouldn't be okay on the Memory or VRM or w/e. if anything in addition to compensating for ejected Oil and w/e, that extra film helps compensate for Thermal Pads that are already 'used' tending to compress down and potentially being a little on the short side, making for less ideal contact. yet is still a tiny amount of added thickness, and so should avoid lifting the Cooler away from the Core. obviously using Putty and Pads would be preferable, but i don't have any reason to expect Paste to be **bad** in some way.
It's possible I've been too hard on thermal paste usage on VRAM. I might prefer not to use it myself, but perhaps it's not as bad as I had considered it to be. I've encountered a couple posts here and there in cases where thermal paste damaged components, but it's likely that electrically conductive paste was used in all of those occurances (ie. Arctic Silver 5). Edit: I likely wouldn't buy thermal paste for this purpose myself. I'd opt for either putty or pads, even just based on price/volume. I'd also worry about stuff like pump out. I think putty is better suited as a heat conductive gap filler. As for CPU's and GPU cores, I think a phase change material like PTM7950 is better than thermal paste long term.
@@snarksdomain ah yes, AS5, everyones' favorite overhyped as hell Product. now the Question is, is K5 Pro, or AS5 more overhyped, and more meh in reality? 😆 anyways yeah i'm sure Putty is preferable gap filler if one is making a choice.
@taiiat0 I'm gonna say K5 Pro is more overhyped, at least recently. Ever since LTT made a video about it and ignored other putties that I would argue have proven out to be much better. I was all for AS5 back in the day anniversary bothered trying other pastes until about 4 years ago.
@@snarksdomain yeah, maybe. big Creators haven't been misguidedly shilling for AS5 in a while. while K5 Pro does still get mentioned frequently. AS5 was a pinnacle Product once upon a time indeed, but by the time the Internet was a mainstay of the World it was already on the edge of being obsolete(which is circa 2007), woo :D IC Diamond got misguidedly promoted for quite a while though... thankfully i don't think i've ever encountered a normie actually using it though.
He also used old stock pads with paste for testing so in his mind he might be rushing to get new pads. As for myself i fear too much about not having the perfect sized peplacement pads so the cooler sits higher from the core ( causing it to not cool properly). Thats why i choose buying same or slightly smaller sized pads and adding the paste to fill small difference ( economical reasons, i cant afford buying 2-3 different sets of pads just to find the perfect one))
No. PTM is safe to use without it. I used the Conformal Coating because I wanted to give the card a decent protective layer for dust/dirt/fluids/vibration for the life of the card. In this video it wasn't truly necessary, but I thought I would include it in the video anyways. I've also done this to my testbench card. This should prevent me from needing to use Kapton tape in most test applications and I'm hoping it will also make the card easier to clean between tests, as well as lower wear and tear. My test card has been re-padded/puttied quite a few times now.
PtM7950 and UX Pro are safe to use and don't conduct electricity. I used the Conformal Coating because I wanted to give the card a decent protective layer for dust/dirt/fluids/vibration for the life of the card. In this video it wasn't truly necessary, but I thought I would include it in the video anyways. I've also done this to my testbench card. This should prevent me from needing to use Kapton tape in most test applications and I'm hoping it will also make the card easier to clean between tests, as well as lower wear and tear. My test card has been re-padded/puttied quite a few times now.
Hello i have applied thermal paste on vram of my gigabyte 5700xt instead of thermal pads because if i apply thermal pads even 0.5mm i get very high hotspot temps.memory temps are good max 72c will it cause any issue?
The paste will likely pump out or dry out after some time and you'll likely need to open it up again. You'll probably want to switch to using a Thermal Putty instead.
@Scott99259 I'm not too sure. Up to you if you want to test it out or not. One thing to keep in mind is that the longer you leave it, the higher the chance of it baking solid. It could be more difficult to clean once that happens.
Very true. I should have clarified I meant for people to use caution with other solvents that are typically used in Ultrasonic tanks due to their non-flamable characteristics, as opposed to IPA. Some have used IPA with Uktrasonic cleaning, but I think the additional risk is not worth it unless you have proper controls in place (oxygen free atmosphere maybe?). It would actually be kinda cool to have a toolbox like chamber that the cleaner sits in, and flushing it with nitrogen prior to cleaning. With pure Nitrogen being 3% lighter than air you'd need a drain on the bottom to vent out all the air during the flush.
Great video and a very bold approach as well! I'm about to do the first clean up on my pc and was aiming to replace the thermal pads in my GPU and to use it in my M2 also. After LOTS, LLLLLLOOOOTTTTSSSS of research, I reached this conclusion: 1 it may sound obvious but, the MAIN thing for thermal conductivity to work is CONTACT, so yes, you can't replace pads with paste, because even if you put a thick enough amount of paste, you won't have CONDUCTION, you'll have CONVECTION, which is way worse than conduction. 2 before messing with those, consider how efficient your card can dissipate heat, otherwise you may solve one problem but creates another much worse. See this video to understand - ua-cam.com/video/vdIIA57treo/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared - heat likes to go to the cooler place available, if it's not dispersed quick enough, he's going back in and to the cooler surroundings 3 in the specific case of your video, I think that if you applied thermal paste only to the dissipator contact side of the thermal pad, maybe it would've worked better, because heat would start to go away from the pad much faster, and it would keep receiving and RETURNING heat at the same pace from the die contact side, probably keeping a cooler "relationship" in between. We have two ways to go from there, you need a pad with lower conductivity than the paste, to work as I said, or you could try to "match" the conductivity for the heat to move as fast as possible, of course, having a strong dissipation environment. I'll check the condition of the pads in my setup, if they're still good, I'll go ahead and apply a layer of paste to see what happens, because there is absolutely no problem in having both in contact for much time as needed, the materials are compatible, so I'll only have to redo it if it actually gets worse, not better.
@brupleal This experiment with paste was just for testing as someone had requested I try it out. I use Thermal Putty to replace thermal pads and have found it to be a superior solution that let's the cooler achieve ideal core contact. You may want to consider just using putty instead of paste+pads.
@@snarksdomain probably will go that way as well, I've kept researching stuff about that and the putty seems to be a ideal solution, but so far only one question about the putty is left, what is the putty impact in the hotspot temperature? There are not so much tests and reviews about putty that are really complete and rich in data. I've seen only one so far that showed all the temperatures, the guy was using a pink putty from Aliexpress, and it shaved about 10cº from the temperatures, but sky rocketed the hotspot by 20cº up! So, did you notice any increase of temperature in the hotspot? Which putty do you use?
@brupleal feel free to check out my test data charts located on the Google Drive link below (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH). Putty compresses better than pads, so you have a better chance to have lower hotspot delta over core temps. That being said, there are some cards that have really convex GPU dies and those can be difficult to get lower hotspots temps (AMD cards lately). Nvidia cars can get 10-15 degree delta over core temps, AMD is closer to 15-20 if you're lucky.
My main question is why do you put so much thermal putty on your memory chips and VRM Like it's too much putty imo you would have better thermal transfer with less of it
Filling a 1.8mm gap on GDDR6X takes a log measuring 6mm in diameter. So anywhere from 6mm to 7mm diameter is ideal for it to form around the edges to achieve maximum contact.
@@snarksdomain ah just curious cause even your laptop videos seems like there's to much thermal paste I'm currently looking for something for the VRM and memory chips incase my stock thermal pads need to be replaced Which the laptop I have is a MSI Vector GP68HX 13VH I don't want to use sketchy websites buy thermal putty or thermal pads and so on and so forth
@@TheChillDeadpool for my laptop I scrape off the excess after putting the cooler back on. I prefer having a bit excess to ensure full coverage, but I have used too much putty on several videos in the past.
@@snarksdomain it seems like there isn't any place to get reliable thermal pads or thermal putty Like like Amazon for example doesn't really seem to have a guarantee good product
Hello. I just put thermal paste on the old thermal pads near the cpu of my laptop (temporary. I have ordered for new pads but it will take some weeks to arrive.). It is dangerous? Or I can work with my laptop until the arrival of the new pads and I will all change? Thank you
Hello. I just put thermal paste on the old thermal pads near the cpu of my laptop (temporary. I have ordered for new pads but it will take some weeks to arrive.). It is dangerous? Or I can work with my laptop until the arrival of the new pads and I will all change? Thank you
What type of paste? If it's one that conducts electricity then it is dangerous. If it is one that doesn't co duct electricity then it should work okay for the short term. Had you considered Thermal Putty instead of pads?
@@snarksdomain I used acritic MX - 4 The reason is because when I opened the cpu (and some chips around it) to change thermal paste of my laptop, I found that the ships around the cpu are covered with thermal pads that are in poor condition and I don't have pads in my city (I ordered them from China, so it will take some weeks). The laptop is working well and with good temperature after changing the cpu thermal paste and restoring the old pads in the chips around the cpu and I did some paste Above them then close the screws. Mx 4 is safe in this situation? Greetings.
@@Koolitari It should be fine for now with MX-4 as it does not conduct electricity. It could take a bit longer to clean up later, but at least you can keep using your PC for now. You may want to watch a few videos on Thermal Putty. You might change your mind on the pads and decide to switch to putty instead. You can also take a look at the charts on the Google Drive (Test Chart Repository). Then select the VRAM TIM folder, then ETCHASH folder, and open the latest chart there.
All by itself? It's not a good idea. Paste isn't designed to fill gaps like this. It's really only meant for direct contact or gaps below 0.1mm, and usually much less than that. You will either want to use a traditional Thermal Pad, or like many of us now use, "Thermal Putty". Thermal Putty is designed to fill gaps like this and transfer the heat well. There are some great Thermal Putties available, and they often are as cheap or cheaper than Thermal pads. As an example, I recently spent ~$22 CAD redoing a 3070 and replaced all pads with the current best performing Thermal Putty. I used 44 grams.
@giovannigiorgio2262 I think you meant to ask if Thermal Putty can dry? I've seen 2 comments regarding EVGA putty being dry, and 1-2 comments about TG-PP10 drying specifically on the VRM. I myself have experienced TG-PP10 drying on the VRM on 1 card, but still soft elsewhere. Even in dried state it seems like it still transfers heat okay, but I would like to further test this out. We won't know about the other putties for some time. Edit: Thermal Pads dry out over time, but mostly in areas of high loads/temperatures. Older cards with GDDR5X and below had much cooler VRAM.
@@snarksdomain i have rx480 btw i rly i can play 2k most of games but now new games like alan wake 2 its wont work its show i need to buy new graphic 😂😂"modern" bec there is some shaders not supported i asked u about pad bec i have OG pad still on GPU but i dont know if the vram cold or high temp
@giovannigiorgio2262 the RX480 uses GDDR5. The stock pads might still be in okay condition. Hard to say for sure until you open the card. The thermal paste is very likely dry though, just based on its age.
A toothbrush and iso works great for cleaning pad or putty residue.
Just curious, what was the purpose of the conformal coating?
As a sidenote, I think it makes the data easier to read and compare when temps are shown as the delta over ambient. For measuring temps, I think it's best to let the card heatsoak and reach steady state, then reset HWinfo and let it monitor for a set amount of time (maybe 10-20 min), then use the average temps as your datapoints. It's easier to control for ambient over a shorter period of time. Also it would be interesting to see more 3D benchmarks, since the load is more varied and you should see higher hotspot temps. It may show more favor to PTM.
Good point on resetting HWINFO after reaching steady thermals, and then wotching ambient for those ~20 minutes. You're likely right about delta being more representative of relative performance. I'll likely list that in another column.
As for the Conformal Coating, I wanted to give the card a decent protective layer for dust/dirt/fluids/vibration for the life of the card. In this video it wasn't truly necessary, but I thought I would include it in the video anyways.
I've also done this to my testbench card. This should prevent me from needing to use Kapton tape in most test applications and I'm hoping it will also make the card easier to clean between tests, as well as lower wear and tear. My test card has been re-padded/puttied quite a few times now.
All these videos are great. Thank you. Ordered some putty and copper shims for my 30 series cards. Gonna give this a shot.
Welcome to #TEAMPUTTY
Which putty did you decide to go with?
Great video, thanks for the insight i was also wondering about this my self seeing the copper shim successes. Keep up the great work
It's like putting Butter on your Bacon. 😅
I unironically put butter in my pan with my bacon
@@esotericjahanism5251 is it good? Does this help it crisp up evenly? Should I try this?
@@snarksdomain it's fucking delicious. Nah doesn't help it crisp up, but it can help stop it from overcooking and drying out, I throw in a spoonful near the end.
@esotericjahanism5251 well, now I gotta give it a whirl!
Great test
Could you compare Upsiren PCM-1 vs PTM7950?
for the 7950 did you run some benches and whanot to let the PCM heat cycle a few times and "cure" over 24h? 7950 tends to perform better next day and improves slightly with time.
Just the few tests before I put it back into his PC. Diablo 4 priorities. Perhaps I'll be able to borrow it and test it out again in a few weeks around the ~1 month mark and report back.
From my testing on my Laptop, Phase Change Material definitely gets better in the shirt term. Will do long term testing as well.
Could you repeat the test with carbonaught pads vs carbonaught pads + good thermal paste.
The reason being that the sheet does a good job of filling the gap when there isn't good and even contact, additionally the paste does a better job of mating the surfaces (fills more of the tiny pores) for increased thermal transfer.
Would a carbonaught sheet perform better, if coated in thermal paste?
Would it be better to just use extra thermal paste (when the surfaces are exceptionally non-flat) rather than using a space-filling thing like a sheet of carbonaught.
For a specific example of a card that has this curious problem, take a look at a Radeon VII.
Apparently the heatsink and the die of the Radeon VII don't have the best flatness, and additionally the heatsink doesn't get sufficiently close to the die either, even if you lapped the surfaces, there would be a large gap that, for example, liquid metal would be a poor use case for, because it's too thin. Gamers Nexus has 2 videos showing that the Radeon VII has poor surface contact with its cooler that you could check out. Apparently the manufacturers of the Radeon VIIs were aware of the larger gap size and they used a very thick (and sticky) graphite based pad to fill the gap.
Something like that may work for a Radeon VII. I went with just a sheet of Phase Change Material instead on the Radeon. It was 0.2mm thick and can melt and compress down as needed. It seems to have worked well. My temperatures were about 3 degree cooler than the stock sticky pad (which was fairly old).
The Carbonaut pads would only work for a core application. It would be quite costly to make enough sandwich layers of carbonaut and paste for the VRAM.
Can you test upsiren thermal pad?i saw it have thermal conductivity of 21w
Great vid. Any tips on pulling off the film on the PTM 7950 pads after cut? It always tears when I do it, haven't managed to get such a clean pull as you. Also can you test some other thermal putty, Zezzio ZT-PY6 and CX-H1300 claimed to perform on par with U6 Pro (if you compare W/mK). The CX-H1300 is particularly interesting because it is about 5 USD for 50g, that being said U6 pro is 15 USD for 50g (I live in South East Asia so the shipping isn't as much).
For peeling the film I'm now using 2 of the supplied tape strips and attaching them to either side at a corner. Only 1 of the films will peel off during the first step.
Then carefully positioning in place. Once in the correct place I go over it with a finger and firm pressure. You can shine a flashlight (phone or other) at an a gle and look for any larger bubbles and work those out if you can.
Once you are satisfied with it you can try using that 2nd tape strip at the corner and carefully peeling it back. This last peel takes finess as the sheet is not firmly clinging to the CPU/GPE die. I've still been using precision slant tweezers to peel last film.
Placing of the cooler on to the CPU will also take some precision.
I'd probably recommend to remove GPU so that you have the space you need to use both hands. Motherboard or case should be lying flat so that you can carefully lower the cooler down onto it.
Unlike thermal paste, you need to get it perfectly centered on first contact. With paste it's always easy enough to shimmy it around even after the cooler makes first contact. Woth phase change sheet it could tear apart a bit if you move/twist the cooler during this time.
it's always nice to see affirmations of your own general experiences - that adding Paste to Pads doesn't seem to make them worse.
but uh, i mean, why **wouldn't** you use Paste smeared Thermal Pads longterm? it's not like this is a much worse scenario or something, the Paste on the Core gets hot, so it's basically the same scenario if you ask me. and if it's okay on the Core, then i don't see why it wouldn't be okay on the Memory or VRM or w/e.
if anything in addition to compensating for ejected Oil and w/e, that extra film helps compensate for Thermal Pads that are already 'used' tending to compress down and potentially being a little on the short side, making for less ideal contact. yet is still a tiny amount of added thickness, and so should avoid lifting the Cooler away from the Core.
obviously using Putty and Pads would be preferable, but i don't have any reason to expect Paste to be **bad** in some way.
It's possible I've been too hard on thermal paste usage on VRAM. I might prefer not to use it myself, but perhaps it's not as bad as I had considered it to be.
I've encountered a couple posts here and there in cases where thermal paste damaged components, but it's likely that electrically conductive paste was used in all of those occurances (ie. Arctic Silver 5).
Edit: I likely wouldn't buy thermal paste for this purpose myself. I'd opt for either putty or pads, even just based on price/volume. I'd also worry about stuff like pump out. I think putty is better suited as a heat conductive gap filler. As for CPU's and GPU cores, I think a phase change material like PTM7950 is better than thermal paste long term.
@@snarksdomain
ah yes, AS5, everyones' favorite overhyped as hell Product. now the Question is, is K5 Pro, or AS5 more overhyped, and more meh in reality? 😆
anyways yeah i'm sure Putty is preferable gap filler if one is making a choice.
@taiiat0 I'm gonna say K5 Pro is more overhyped, at least recently. Ever since LTT made a video about it and ignored other putties that I would argue have proven out to be much better.
I was all for AS5 back in the day anniversary bothered trying other pastes until about 4 years ago.
@@snarksdomain
yeah, maybe. big Creators haven't been misguidedly shilling for AS5 in a while. while K5 Pro does still get mentioned frequently.
AS5 was a pinnacle Product once upon a time indeed, but by the time the Internet was a mainstay of the World it was already on the edge of being obsolete(which is circa 2007), woo :D
IC Diamond got misguidedly promoted for quite a while though... thankfully i don't think i've ever encountered a normie actually using it though.
He also used old stock pads with paste for testing so in his mind he might be rushing to get new pads. As for myself i fear too much about not having the perfect sized peplacement pads so the cooler sits higher from the core ( causing it to not cool properly). Thats why i choose buying same or slightly smaller sized pads and adding the paste to fill small difference ( economical reasons, i cant afford buying 2-3 different sets of pads just to find the perfect one))
bro what a cliffhanger, was curious about the ptm/ux pro result in furmark :D
I'll see if I can borrow the card and run a few tests, now that it's been a month.
Is the ptm conducive? Thats why the conformol?
No. PTM is safe to use without it.
I used the Conformal Coating because I wanted to give the card a decent protective layer for dust/dirt/fluids/vibration for the life of the card. In this video it wasn't truly necessary, but I thought I would include it in the video anyways.
I've also done this to my testbench card. This should prevent me from needing to use Kapton tape in most test applications and I'm hoping it will also make the card easier to clean between tests, as well as lower wear and tear. My test card has been re-padded/puttied quite a few times now.
What's the reasoning behind the conformal coating?
I thought putty and paste are both non-conductive.
PtM7950 and UX Pro are safe to use and don't conduct electricity.
I used the Conformal Coating because I wanted to give the card a decent protective layer for dust/dirt/fluids/vibration for the life of the card. In this video it wasn't truly necessary, but I thought I would include it in the video anyways.
I've also done this to my testbench card. This should prevent me from needing to use Kapton tape in most test applications and I'm hoping it will also make the card easier to clean between tests, as well as lower wear and tear. My test card has been re-padded/puttied quite a few times now.
thanks:)
Hello i have applied thermal paste on vram of my gigabyte 5700xt instead of thermal pads because if i apply thermal pads even 0.5mm i get very high hotspot temps.memory temps are good max 72c will it cause any issue?
The paste will likely pump out or dry out after some time and you'll likely need to open it up again.
You'll probably want to switch to using a Thermal Putty instead.
@@snarksdomain will it last a year?
@Scott99259 I'm not too sure. Up to you if you want to test it out or not. One thing to keep in mind is that the longer you leave it, the higher the chance of it baking solid. It could be more difficult to clean once that happens.
10:52 Isopropanol is a solvent by the way…
Very true. I should have clarified I meant for people to use caution with other solvents that are typically used in Ultrasonic tanks due to their non-flamable characteristics, as opposed to IPA. Some have used IPA with Uktrasonic cleaning, but I think the additional risk is not worth it unless you have proper controls in place (oxygen free atmosphere maybe?).
It would actually be kinda cool to have a toolbox like chamber that the cleaner sits in, and flushing it with nitrogen prior to cleaning. With pure Nitrogen being 3% lighter than air you'd need a drain on the bottom to vent out all the air during the flush.
Great video and a very bold approach as well! I'm about to do the first clean up on my pc and was aiming to replace the thermal pads in my GPU and to use it in my M2 also.
After LOTS, LLLLLLOOOOTTTTSSSS of research, I reached this conclusion:
1 it may sound obvious but, the MAIN thing for thermal conductivity to work is CONTACT, so yes, you can't replace pads with paste, because even if you put a thick enough amount of paste, you won't have CONDUCTION, you'll have CONVECTION, which is way worse than conduction.
2 before messing with those, consider how efficient your card can dissipate heat, otherwise you may solve one problem but creates another much worse. See this video to understand - ua-cam.com/video/vdIIA57treo/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared - heat likes to go to the cooler place available, if it's not dispersed quick enough, he's going back in and to the cooler surroundings
3 in the specific case of your video, I think that if you applied thermal paste only to the dissipator contact side of the thermal pad, maybe it would've worked better, because heat would start to go away from the pad much faster, and it would keep receiving and RETURNING heat at the same pace from the die contact side, probably keeping a cooler "relationship" in between.
We have two ways to go from there, you need a pad with lower conductivity than the paste, to work as I said, or you could try to "match" the conductivity for the heat to move as fast as possible, of course, having a strong dissipation environment.
I'll check the condition of the pads in my setup, if they're still good, I'll go ahead and apply a layer of paste to see what happens, because there is absolutely no problem in having both in contact for much time as needed, the materials are compatible, so I'll only have to redo it if it actually gets worse, not better.
@brupleal This experiment with paste was just for testing as someone had requested I try it out. I use Thermal Putty to replace thermal pads and have found it to be a superior solution that let's the cooler achieve ideal core contact. You may want to consider just using putty instead of paste+pads.
@@snarksdomain probably will go that way as well, I've kept researching stuff about that and the putty seems to be a ideal solution, but so far only one question about the putty is left, what is the putty impact in the hotspot temperature?
There are not so much tests and reviews about putty that are really complete and rich in data. I've seen only one so far that showed all the temperatures, the guy was using a pink putty from Aliexpress, and it shaved about 10cº from the temperatures, but sky rocketed the hotspot by 20cº up!
So, did you notice any increase of temperature in the hotspot? Which putty do you use?
@brupleal feel free to check out my test data charts located on the Google Drive link below (Test Chart Repository>VRAM TIM>ETCHASH).
Putty compresses better than pads, so you have a better chance to have lower hotspot delta over core temps. That being said, there are some cards that have really convex GPU dies and those can be difficult to get lower hotspots temps (AMD cards lately). Nvidia cars can get 10-15 degree delta over core temps, AMD is closer to 15-20 if you're lucky.
My main question is why do you put so much thermal putty on your memory chips and VRM
Like it's too much putty imo you would have better thermal transfer with less of it
Filling a 1.8mm gap on GDDR6X takes a log measuring 6mm in diameter. So anywhere from 6mm to 7mm diameter is ideal for it to form around the edges to achieve maximum contact.
@@snarksdomain ah just curious cause even your laptop videos seems like there's to much thermal paste
I'm currently looking for something for the VRM and memory chips incase my stock thermal pads need to be replaced
Which the laptop I have is a MSI Vector GP68HX 13VH
I don't want to use sketchy websites buy thermal putty or thermal pads and so on and so forth
@@TheChillDeadpool for my laptop I scrape off the excess after putting the cooler back on. I prefer having a bit excess to ensure full coverage, but I have used too much putty on several videos in the past.
@@snarksdomain it seems like there isn't any place to get reliable thermal pads or thermal putty
Like like Amazon for example doesn't really seem to have a guarantee good product
Hello. I just put thermal paste on the old thermal pads near the cpu of my laptop (temporary. I have ordered for new pads but it will take some weeks to arrive.). It is dangerous? Or I can work with my laptop until the arrival of the new pads and I will all change? Thank you
Hello. I just put thermal paste on the old thermal pads near the cpu of my laptop (temporary. I have ordered for new pads but it will take some weeks to arrive.). It is dangerous? Or I can work with my laptop until the arrival of the new pads and I will all change? Thank you
What type of paste? If it's one that conducts electricity then it is dangerous. If it is one that doesn't co duct electricity then it should work okay for the short term.
Had you considered Thermal Putty instead of pads?
@@snarksdomain
I used acritic MX - 4
The reason is because when I opened the cpu (and some chips around it) to change thermal paste of my laptop, I found that the ships around the cpu are covered with thermal pads that are in poor condition and I don't have pads in my city (I ordered them from China, so it will take some weeks).
The laptop is working well and with good temperature after changing the cpu thermal paste and restoring the old pads in the chips around the cpu and I did some paste Above them then close the screws.
Mx 4 is safe in this situation?
Greetings.
@@Koolitari It should be fine for now with MX-4 as it does not conduct electricity. It could take a bit longer to clean up later, but at least you can keep using your PC for now.
You may want to watch a few videos on Thermal Putty. You might change your mind on the pads and decide to switch to putty instead. You can also take a look at the charts on the Google Drive (Test Chart Repository). Then select the VRAM TIM folder, then ETCHASH folder, and open the latest chart there.
@@snarksdomain
I thank you sir for your help. Have a nice day
is ok if i put thermal paste or vram ??
All by itself? It's not a good idea. Paste isn't designed to fill gaps like this. It's really only meant for direct contact or gaps below 0.1mm, and usually much less than that.
You will either want to use a traditional Thermal Pad, or like many of us now use, "Thermal Putty".
Thermal Putty is designed to fill gaps like this and transfer the heat well. There are some great Thermal Putties available, and they often are as cheap or cheaper than Thermal pads. As an example, I recently spent ~$22 CAD redoing a 3070 and replaced all pads with the current best performing Thermal Putty. I used 44 grams.
@@snarksdomain oh i see , thank u btw can thermal pad dry like te paste ?
@giovannigiorgio2262 I think you meant to ask if Thermal Putty can dry?
I've seen 2 comments regarding EVGA putty being dry, and 1-2 comments about TG-PP10 drying specifically on the VRM. I myself have experienced TG-PP10 drying on the VRM on 1 card, but still soft elsewhere.
Even in dried state it seems like it still transfers heat okay, but I would like to further test this out.
We won't know about the other putties for some time.
Edit: Thermal Pads dry out over time, but mostly in areas of high loads/temperatures. Older cards with GDDR5X and below had much cooler VRAM.
@@snarksdomain i have rx480 btw i rly i can play 2k most of games but now new games like alan wake 2 its wont work its show i need to buy new graphic 😂😂"modern" bec there is some shaders not supported i asked u about pad bec i have OG pad still on GPU but i dont know if the vram cold or high temp
@giovannigiorgio2262 the RX480 uses GDDR5. The stock pads might still be in okay condition. Hard to say for sure until you open the card. The thermal paste is very likely dry though, just based on its age.