Nice that you guys have a DIY video because the piece of paper that came with my stage 3 clutch for my K was sort of confusion. Thank you guys for the video!
If I turn clockwise towards the driver door. I believe that’s the direction I backed the rod out to far and had to put it back together. Not sure if that’s the direction I turned it. Do I turn towards the center of the car or driver door direction? I don’t want to have to put that back onto the pedal cause that was a hassle for me to fit in that small of an area let alone to work
Why is it that my clutch on my Acura RSX engages almost all the way at the top. Like all I have to do is barely push it and it engages. Sometimes the pedal gets stuck at the bottom.
Thanks for the informative video. The tech manual for my RSX was a little confusing when it came to the distances to measure when adjusting the sensors and pedal height.
Nice video, but a quick question. I have a 1994 Accord EX Coupe, 5 speed. Everything in the trans, driveline, hydraulics and clutch system is brand NEW. Even if I fully extend the pushrod to the last thread (longest setting), I can still push in the slave by hand. I had an overstroke situation because of this. I backed off the pushrod to factory specs (much shorter) and now shifts perfectly, no notchy shifts etc.. Overextended pushrod caused shift issues with binding the clutch springs on the flywheel... click click...!! And clutch slippage.! Several mechanics besides me worked on my car last year, most had no clue on clutch adjustments or bleeding ALL the air out of my lines... I solved all the issues myself, after they worked on my car incorrectly.. The question is.. Why does my slave never block off (as in your vid) even with a fully extended pushrod?? Is it the type of slave (and valve ports)? Mine is a replacement (quality Japanese part) slave. Not a factory Honda slave... Thanks!
Should the same method be able to apply to an upgraded CMC or different CMC for the 03 RSX-S, I ask because I'm installing a hybrid racing CMC(EM1 style) and CSC and the CMC rod differs from the rod on the OEM, on the new the rod the adjustable part is only the pedal bracket for the locking pin the rod has a swivel ball on the CMC end so the rod isn't threaded on both end...would it still work? I also have CC stage 4 clutch on my 03 RSX-S
Quick question if someone can help me out I got a 07 civic si and I have installed the ktuned cmc and slave on it but when I go to adjust the padel it's not letting me like what tool I use to twist the cmc rod so it can extend? And the pedal is smooth and no pressure in it even tho I have done the bleeding and padel has a little bit of play because it's not adjust yet
I have noticed that I don't get optimum results from getting the rod out to the maximum position. I put the rod back in a little(rotated anti clockwise a little) and that gives me better result. What's the proper measurement to adjust? Like how much pedal free travel and how much stroke? TIA
Yeah it is a good idea to spin the rod a little counter clockwise after feeling resistance because you want to have some pedal free play according to the honda factory service manual. I have a video on it
Helped me out but I think my master is going or slave along those lines cause I did the pedal adjustment and it helped a good amount but still keeping a getting stuck to the floor.
This happened to my RSX-S years ago, ended up replacing both the master and slave cylinder after it smoked my clutch. Hope you figure it out without spending as much money as I did.
That's what I wanna know bc I installed a stage 1 and the slave isnt pushing enough for any gear to engage but I'm gonna try this tomorrow and hopefully I'll have a running car
Okay! Yes the rod should be sturdy and solid. If you are having any slack in the rod we would recommend a upgrade to a aftermarket slave or a OEM replacement piece for proper engagement.
@@CompetitionCluch okay so i did the adjustment, but now i’m having an issue where i keep blowing through the rubber o ring that sits in the CMC, any idea?
I have a question so my clutch engages all the way low. which is not a problem its nice. but when i fully release the clutch pedal i hear like a bearing noise? but if i lightly apply my foot on the clutch pedal, not even pressing the pedal at all, just a light pressure the noise goes away...should i shorten my pedal? or make it longer?
@@CompetitionCluch I am having this issue as well. If I follow your instructions I can hear my throw out bearing chatter when completely released and the engagement point is a bit high up. I've installed 8037-1500 with a new Honda OEM throw out bearing with new Honda Pilot bearing. 2002 RSX Base 5 speed using a Type-S Clutch kit and Flywheel. If I readjust the sensor screw to expose 2-3 thread and readjust the master cylinder rod the noise from the throw out bearing reduces and the clutch catches more in the middle instead of near the top. The throw out bearing has very slight chatter but I'm not sure if this is normal and will go away or am I prematurely wearing my new throw out bearing?
Approximately how far does slave have to extend to disengage just installed clutch cant shift into any gears while running with bled slave full of fluid. Allows every gear except 5th with car off.
Good question installed new clutch and no gears will engage I have a new master pump maybe 6 months on it from dealer so I'm gonna say it's not gone bad, did you guys figure it out ?
Hi guys I have recently installed comp clutch and light flywheel on ep3 type r. Fitment went all fine but have noticed the bite point is at the low end adjusted at maximum travel. I have also bled all lines. Any help would be appreciated!
I dont get it. Master cylinder rod is being adjusted longer inside the car? To push toward the clutch pedal switch? I just installed a Competition stage 2 in my 1999 Prelude and now my engagement is way high. Almost like the bottom ¾ of the pedal is doing nothing. Please help.
@@RedGhoSt108 It helped a little. But my son just installed one in his RSX and its the same way. I heard thats normal with a new clutch.....? Everything runs and works perfect.
Wow. After 4 dang yrs u solved my pain n headaches... ty so much!!! I finally can enjoy my 05 RSX TYPE S
What issues were you having?
@@Hello_its_me_mario I was baby grinding on 3rd. Double clutch worked but I just wana shift without the double
Nice that you guys have a DIY video because the piece of paper that came with my stage 3 clutch for my K was sort of confusion. Thank you guys for the video!
CAMMEDcivic x2 This was so much better than the instructions included with the clutch.
Thanks to you in 10 min my car is now drivable....thank you
Dude this fixed my clutch issue!
If I turn clockwise towards the driver door. I believe that’s the direction I backed the rod out to far and had to put it back together. Not sure if that’s the direction I turned it. Do I turn towards the center of the car or driver door direction? I don’t want to have to put that back onto the pedal cause that was a hassle for me to fit in that small of an area let alone to work
How do I put the linkage connection back to the bracket if I backed it out to far?
is the process any different for a regular/oem clutch ?
Whats the adjustment if I'm using em2 clutch master cylinder ?
Is this needed with k swap with z1 trans in 2000 civic? I just ordered a stage 2 kit w/ flywheel. I believe it’s a k24 kit.
Will this fix my clutch ? Because I feel like my clutch pedal is to far down to the ground and their is very little space
Thanks for the precise info - You saved me time and money and headache from hoa and fake neighbors who report their neighbors.
Your so welcome. Glad we could help you out.
Is this for the Twin disc as well. Same
Procedure.?
Awesome vid
I adjust on that 2 things.. but the biting point is still high rhen i found out that you need to adjust the switch on the top to make the car move..
Why is it that my clutch on my Acura RSX engages almost all the way at the top. Like all I have to do is barely push it and it engages. Sometimes the pedal gets stuck at the bottom.
is this the same procedure for a stage 3 clutch
Thank you!!
Thanks for the informative video. The tech manual for my RSX was a little confusing when it came to the distances to measure when adjusting the sensors and pedal height.
Glad we could help.
Thanks man that help s
Mine not letting me go into gears
Nice video, but a quick question.
I have a 1994 Accord EX Coupe, 5 speed. Everything in the trans, driveline, hydraulics and clutch system is brand NEW.
Even if I fully extend the pushrod to the last thread (longest setting), I can still push in the slave by hand. I had an overstroke situation because of this. I backed off the pushrod to factory specs (much shorter) and now shifts perfectly, no notchy shifts etc..
Overextended pushrod caused shift issues with binding the clutch springs on the flywheel... click click...!! And clutch slippage.!
Several mechanics besides me worked on my car last year, most had no clue on clutch adjustments or bleeding ALL the air out of my lines... I solved all the issues myself, after they worked on my car incorrectly..
The question is.. Why does my slave never block off (as in your vid) even with a fully extended pushrod??
Is it the type of slave (and valve ports)? Mine is a replacement (quality Japanese part) slave. Not a factory Honda slave...
Thanks!
Should the same method be able to apply to an upgraded CMC or different CMC for the 03 RSX-S, I ask because I'm installing a hybrid racing CMC(EM1 style) and CSC and the CMC rod differs from the rod on the OEM, on the new the rod the adjustable part is only the pedal bracket for the locking pin the rod has a swivel ball on the CMC end so the rod isn't threaded on both end...would it still work? I also have CC stage 4 clutch on my 03 RSX-S
I’m going to say yes non of the rod are threaded both ways one has thread and the other side is just a ball joint
Quick question if someone can help me out
I got a 07 civic si and I have installed the ktuned cmc and slave on it but when I go to adjust the padel it's not letting me like what tool I use to twist the cmc rod so it can extend? And the pedal is smooth and no pressure in it even tho I have done the bleeding and padel has a little bit of play because it's not adjust yet
Was you able to get this resolved?
The PDF with the pics was a bit confusing. Why didn't you adjust the other switch.
I have noticed that I don't get optimum results from getting the rod out to the maximum position. I put the rod back in a little(rotated anti clockwise a little) and that gives me better result. What's the proper measurement to adjust? Like how much pedal free travel and how much stroke?
TIA
Yeah it is a good idea to spin the rod a little counter clockwise after feeling resistance because you want to have some pedal free play according to the honda factory service manual. I have a video on it
what key number to use??
Helped me out but I think my master is going or slave along those lines cause I did the pedal adjustment and it helped a good amount but still keeping a getting stuck to the floor.
This happened to my RSX-S years ago, ended up replacing both the master and slave cylinder after it smoked my clutch. Hope you figure it out without spending as much money as I did.
Does pedal adjustment increase and decrease slave cylinder open and close distance ?
That's what I wanna know bc I installed a stage 1 and the slave isnt pushing enough for any gear to engage but I'm gonna try this tomorrow and hopefully I'll have a running car
@11nthecutt right bro my car is doing the same and I'm trying to see
It would have been nice to have uploaded this video over a year ago.
should the rod be sturdy? right now mine is somewhat loose and i have an aftermarket clutch in my car.
Okay! Yes the rod should be sturdy and solid. If you are having any slack in the rod we would recommend a upgrade to a aftermarket slave or a OEM replacement piece for proper engagement.
@@CompetitionCluch if i make the rod sturdy and solid i will have 0 free play in my clutch.
@@CompetitionCluch okay so i did the adjustment, but now i’m having an issue where i keep blowing through the rubber o ring that sits in the CMC, any idea?
I have a question so my clutch engages all the way low. which is not a problem its nice. but when i fully release the clutch pedal i hear like a bearing noise? but if i lightly apply my foot on the clutch pedal, not even pressing the pedal at all, just a light pressure the noise goes away...should i shorten my pedal? or make it longer?
What clutch kit do you have?
@@CompetitionCluch I am having this issue as well. If I follow your instructions I can hear my throw out bearing chatter when completely released and the engagement point is a bit high up. I've installed 8037-1500 with a new Honda OEM throw out bearing with new Honda Pilot bearing. 2002 RSX Base 5 speed using a Type-S Clutch kit and Flywheel.
If I readjust the sensor screw to expose 2-3 thread and readjust the master cylinder rod the noise from the throw out bearing reduces and the clutch catches more in the middle instead of near the top. The throw out bearing has very slight chatter but I'm not sure if this is normal and will go away or am I prematurely wearing my new throw out bearing?
Been having the same problems I have a stage 3 clutch
Mine is doing this now and I can't go into gear but it's engaged a lil already
Approximately how far does slave have to extend to disengage just installed clutch cant shift into any gears while running with bled slave full of fluid. Allows every gear except 5th with car off.
Mine does the exact same thing...did you find answers?
Do you have a cai? Sometimes this blocks you into entering 5th gear
That's why we install it with 5th gear selected or in gear. But idk in your case..
Good question installed new clutch and no gears will engage I have a new master pump maybe 6 months on it from dealer so I'm gonna say it's not gone bad, did you guys figure it out ?
@@memmzald3378 wait lmao so youre saying an intake makes you not be able to go into fifth ? specifically ? how is this related lml
Hi guys I have recently installed comp clutch and light flywheel on ep3 type r. Fitment went all fine but have noticed the bite point is at the low end adjusted at maximum travel. I have also bled all lines. Any help would be appreciated!
I dont get it. Master cylinder rod is being adjusted longer inside the car? To push toward the clutch pedal switch? I just installed a Competition stage 2 in my 1999 Prelude and now my engagement is way high. Almost like the bottom ¾ of the pedal is doing nothing. Please help.
Same man idk wtf I did
@@iTzKvo I'm gonna try this adjustment today, I'll let you know. Your pedal is high also?
Bobby Delamar yes extremely high, I just changed my clutch about 2 weeks ago also
@@bobbydelamar606 update, did it help?
@@RedGhoSt108 It helped a little. But my son just installed one in his RSX and its the same way. I heard thats normal with a new clutch.....? Everything runs and works perfect.
Did they upload this video using a dial up network? Cause the video sounds weird.
Gracias mi carro esta corriendo en 10 minutos
did you record this with a fucking nokia and throw your tools on it every chance you got? jesus fuck my ears