Thank you for showing me how to adjust the clutch. My truck is a Toyota, but it has the same basic adjustment nut and shaft. I had worked on other trucks long ago. But these trucks are different. I appreciate your video. Thank you.
I had the same issue after changing my clutch fork. The pivot point was off. Instead of clockwise or counter clockwise I think if it like this... you shortened the master cylinder rod, so that your pedal needed to throw further to hit the sweet spot. Thus lower engagement.
If you look at the original honda manual, it says to roll back the carpet before making measurements. This means your pedal was most likely at a perfect height. The problem you have corresponds perfectly to simply a worn clutch.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2013 honda accord MT and it did say with the carpet pulled back on the clutch pedal height adjustment … I kinda freaked out cuz all my shifters won’t go into gears and never had this kind of problem before replacing my clutch disc and plate…IMO honda wants you to have precision on this adjustment in order to have smooth shifting possible …free play precised measurement on the clutch pedal is a must also
@@jfGarage4k I have an issue with this... After I adjust the pedal to be higher and also stiffer the clutch engagement is near the top ..... my clutch was replaced last week hence the bitepoint should be near the floor not high .... but when I adjust the pedal to be lower closer to the ground the bitepoint is closer to the floor which is good but the pedal has a lot of dribling freeplay this way.... so is there an option to have the pedal stiff without freeplay and also have the bitepoint close to the floor as it should be with new clutches ?
Thanks for your help got Suzuki Grand Vitara 2.5 v6 with same problem where the clutch paddle release almost where the clutch spot. This was a big Help.
Thanks for the vid will try it on my newly purchased 2006 v6 accord the engagement is so hi i literaly just rest my foot and change gears it makes me feel like i cant drive stick lol
That wasn't moisture on the the master cylinder rubber seal. I think it was clutch/brake fluid. If so, you will lose the freeplay again since air is leaking into the system.
I believe you turned the adjust rod COUNTER-clockwise. I guess it all depends on your frame of reference. But by looking at the rod going into the firewall, you did turn the rod counter-clockwise in order to increase freeplay and lower the engagement point.
From what i gather you just have to turn the rod clockwise (toward master cylinder) until you feel the rod bottom out on the plunger. This makes it to where you use the full throw of the clutch. Mine is very hard to turn i have to use pliars for some reason
Hi, confused! As you face forward in the vehicle (as normal) and you are facing your end of the rod going away into the engine bulkhead, did you find an improvement by turning the rod clockwise or anticlockwise? You tried clockwise first and it got worse and then you confused me by saying 'turn the other way.....clockwise!? and it is better. So which rotation direction solves the problem of a too high biting clutch pedal?
I’m experiencing the same thing in my 04 Civic LX. I had to turn the CMC rod counter clockwise to get at least 3 threads to show; then I retightened the nut.
You push the shaft in by turning it "clockwise" looking at it from the seat of the car forward. He did say "clockwise" before. But he was looking at it from under the dash towards the back of the car.
In terms of "raising the engagement point" or "lowering the engagement point" which is what we are looking to do, results of "getting threads to show" and "pushing the rod in" don't help.
No, your clutch should be the heighest of all 3 pedals, brake one a bit lower, and gas the lowest. If you take any measurements roll back the carpet and measure to the car body, this is where you can make a mistake like the guy on the video.
I have a honda fit. Its the same things. Loosen nut and adjust rod. It takes a few times to adjust it to your liking. I suggest you loosen the nut then keep it loose as you adjust and test it on 1st and reverse.
Would inaccurate pedal or free play adjustment cause your shifting won’t go into gears ? for manual transmission of course …I’m experiencing this currently on my 2013 Honda accord MT
@@jfGarage4k got it. I had to take out the clutch master cylinder to be able to break the nut loose. I then replaced it because it was too rounded to put back
Good video. Seems like with the adjustments you made, there’s almost no free play between the rod and the plunger. You barely have the press the pedal to shift. Hopefully you’re not pre-loading the rod against the same plunger, otherwise even with the pedal fully out, the clutch will slip and wear prematurely.
Hey man I don’t have a Honda but I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. I have a 2006 Scion tC and when I engage and disengage it sometimes it surges back idk what it could be?
I'm having the same problem with the Suzuki swift vvt I just bought the misses. Problem is, is that it doesn't have the locking nut.. it has a rod that is just bent at the end and goes into the clutch pedal..
Top of the pedal engaugement is perfectly normal and a good thing. It works down over time and wear. But i guess if ur used to a warn clutch, this helps.
I've never heard of a clutch supposed to be at the top to engage... I'm no super mechanic or anything but I've always had mine closer to halfway or under, and all my mechanics I've talked to say the something. Having the clutch in the incorrect engagement placement can cause more wear on the clutch. I could be wrong but I don't see how it being at the top is normal
Check fluid level in the clutch reservoir, check if it's bled correctly. If that's not the case probably blown clutch cylinder or something wrong with the clutch spring.
The one on the far left is just a fake pedal on a raised platform to rest your left foot on, instead of riding the clutch. Some cars have them, some just have carpet, but the raised part is still there.
vacuuming your car is free. I never understood why people don't clean their cars yet say they are a car person. if my car interior was that dirty I wouldn't give a fuck about the clutch
Thank you for showing me how to adjust the clutch. My truck is a Toyota, but it has the same basic adjustment nut and shaft. I had worked on other trucks long ago. But these trucks are different. I appreciate your video. Thank you.
Awesome thanks for checking it out. Im glad this video help
I had the same issue after changing my clutch fork. The pivot point was off. Instead of clockwise or counter clockwise I think if it like this... you shortened the master cylinder rod, so that your pedal needed to throw further to hit the sweet spot. Thus lower engagement.
If you look at the original honda manual, it says to roll back the carpet before making measurements. This means your pedal was most likely at a perfect height. The problem you have corresponds perfectly to simply a worn clutch.
worn clutch raises bite point?
@@tek6303yes but sometimes the pedal goes up from time to time
I have a Haynes manual for my 2013 honda accord MT and it did say with the carpet pulled back on the clutch pedal height adjustment … I kinda freaked out cuz all my shifters won’t go into gears and never had this kind of problem before replacing my clutch disc and plate…IMO honda wants you to have precision on this adjustment in order to have smooth shifting possible …free play precised measurement on the clutch pedal is a must also
This did helped me so much on my Celica 77
Thank you Jasmine, this was a great video!
You present it very well, kept it simple and to the point
Good job!
Awesome for a good feedback, I'm Glad you enjoyed it!
I just adjusted my clutch pedal and lowered it after the clutch was replaced last week this worked perfectly, thank you so much!
@@jfGarage4k I have an issue with this... After I adjust the pedal to be higher and also stiffer the clutch engagement is near the top ..... my clutch was replaced last week hence the bitepoint should be near the floor not high .... but when I adjust the pedal to be lower closer to the ground the bitepoint is closer to the floor which is good but the pedal has a lot of dribling freeplay this way.... so is there an option to have the pedal stiff without freeplay and also have the bitepoint close to the floor as it should be with new clutches ?
You loosen the nut that locks the master cylinder rod. You adjust the rod, not the nut.
That's what he did. That's what you do to all this type clutches.
Thanks for your help got Suzuki Grand Vitara 2.5 v6 with same problem where the clutch paddle release almost where the clutch spot. This was a big Help.
Thank you... it helped me alot
Glad it helped
Thanks for the vid will try it on my newly purchased 2006 v6 accord the engagement is so hi i literaly just rest my foot and change gears it makes me feel like i cant drive stick lol
Did it ever solve your problem?
Curious ass well
That wasn't moisture on the the master cylinder rubber seal. I think it was clutch/brake fluid. If so, you will lose the freeplay again since air is leaking into the system.
I believe you turned the adjust rod COUNTER-clockwise. I guess it all depends on your frame of reference. But by looking at the rod going into the firewall, you did turn the rod counter-clockwise in order to increase freeplay and lower the engagement point.
From what i gather you just have to turn the rod clockwise (toward master cylinder) until you feel the rod bottom out on the plunger. This makes it to where you use the full throw of the clutch. Mine is very hard to turn i have to use pliars for some reason
Ya this one a little harder to turn aswell
Hi, confused! As you face forward in the vehicle (as normal) and you are facing your end of the rod going away into the engine bulkhead, did you find an improvement by turning the rod clockwise or anticlockwise? You tried clockwise first and it got worse and then you confused me by saying 'turn the other way.....clockwise!? and it is better. So which rotation direction solves the problem of a too high biting clutch pedal?
I’m experiencing the same thing in my 04 Civic LX. I had to turn the CMC rod counter clockwise to get at least 3 threads to show; then I retightened the nut.
You push the shaft in by turning it "clockwise" looking at it from the seat of the car forward. He did say "clockwise" before. But he was looking at it from under the dash towards the back of the car.
In terms of "raising the engagement point" or "lowering the engagement point" which is what we are looking to do, results of "getting threads to show" and "pushing the rod in" don't help.
Should the height of clutch and break match? How will i know if my clutch is too high? My gear feels hard
No, your clutch should be the heighest of all 3 pedals, brake one a bit lower, and gas the lowest. If you take any measurements roll back the carpet and measure to the car body, this is where you can make a mistake like the guy on the video.
Please show how to adjust the clutch on honda fit
I never done one on a Honda Fit im sorry, Im sure tons of video here just need to search it
I have a honda fit. Its the same things. Loosen nut and adjust rod. It takes a few times to adjust it to your liking. I suggest you loosen the nut then keep it loose as you adjust and test it on 1st and reverse.
Would inaccurate pedal or free play adjustment cause your shifting won’t go into gears ? for manual transmission of course …I’m experiencing this currently on my 2013 Honda accord MT
What if I cant loosen the nut
. I think the edges are getting rounded so my wrench doesn't want to get a good grip. What should I try next?
If the Nut is rounded Spray PBblaster fluid on that nut and use vicegrip to crack that nut out.
@@jfGarage4k ok I’ll try only thing is that there’s not enough room down there.
Hahah ya I know eh. im a small guy with small hand i can fit just enough. Use a small vicegrip you can find
@@jfGarage4k got it. I had to take out the clutch master cylinder to be able to break the nut loose. I then replaced it because it was too rounded to put back
Awesome good work champ
Good video. Seems like with the adjustments you made, there’s almost no free play between the rod and the plunger. You barely have the press the pedal to shift. Hopefully you’re not pre-loading the rod against the same plunger, otherwise even with the pedal fully out, the clutch will slip and wear prematurely.
Hey man I don’t have a Honda but I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. I have a 2006 Scion tC and when I engage and disengage it sometimes it surges back idk what it could be?
Surges back! Like your engine have a bouncing idle (up and down)?
@@jfGarage4k well I figured out it’s my clutch when I engage it jerks backwards
I'm having the same problem with the Suzuki swift vvt I just bought the misses. Problem is, is that it doesn't have the locking nut.. it has a rod that is just bent at the end and goes into the clutch pedal..
I tried this, afterwards the car wouldn't start. What would cause this?
Is the engine light on?
Yes, we just tried push starting and still wouldn't start. Thanks for your help
Can you hear the fuel pump primed before you start the engine? And check if you have Sparks coming from Spark plugs
Check clutch pedal safety switch didn't get bumped or affected
What direction do you turn the locking nut?
He said clockwise
Why is my clutch so hard and doesnt go all the way down after replacing radiator
Top of the pedal engaugement is perfectly normal and a good thing. It works down over time and wear. But i guess if ur used to a warn clutch, this helps.
I've never heard of a clutch supposed to be at the top to engage... I'm no super mechanic or anything but I've always had mine closer to halfway or under, and all my mechanics I've talked to say the something. Having the clutch in the incorrect engagement placement can cause more wear on the clutch. I could be wrong but I don't see how it being at the top is normal
@@BMathiesen you are right, if the pedal starts to bite when almost all the up the clutch is worn.
ThankQ your video help
Mine wont go into gear while running and if i do it in gear and start it the car starts
To stall while the clutch is pushed down
Replace master cylinder and flush the system
This is not the problem I’m having 💀 I believe it’s the opposite as in the clutch has no pressure and stays on the floor
Check fluid level in the clutch reservoir, check if it's bled correctly. If that's not the case probably blown clutch cylinder or something wrong with the clutch spring.
Clutch cylinder and sleeve cylinder bro
Looks like you have air in the system. Bleed the clutch Fluid Properly
My dads been saying my gramps B2200 has a high clutch I’m hoping I can fix it soon
Hope this fix your problem, if now check your clutch plate and disc
My Aw11 Catches High...
Why is there 4 pedals?
🤣🤣🤣
Modern Standard vehicle only have 3 pedals
The one on the far left is just a fake pedal on a raised platform to rest your left foot on, instead of riding the clutch. Some cars have them, some just have carpet, but the raised part is still there.
U have no free play that’s the problem
You need to be taking your foot ALL THE WAY OFF THE CLUTCH PEDAL each time you shift. You are burning the shit out of it doing that
vacuuming your car is free. I never understood why people don't clean their cars yet say they are a car person. if my car interior was that dirty I wouldn't give a fuck about the clutch
Cool story, princess. Aren't you just the cutest?
Why is there 4 pedals?
4th pedals is Not a pedal, it to put to rest your feet while driving