8th Civic Si and RSX Type-S Clutch Adjustment DIY | Aftermarket and Stock | FG2, FA5, DC5
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2019
- How to do a proper clutch pedal adjustment for the 8th Gen Civic Si and the RSX Type-S (K20z3, K20a2 engines). This includes aftermarket clutch kits, stock clutch kits, aftermarket EM1 style Clutch Master Cylinder (k-tuned, Hybrid Racing, Hardmotion, ect) , as well as the stock Clutch Master Cylinder.
*For Hybrid Racing EM1, with rod swapped, adjustment should be around 2 threads showing Thank you @James Rhodes for the info!
**Not every clutch kit is exactly the same so be advised that you may have to set the pedal height and freeplay slightly different, but you can use the same method. If you are still having some issues getting in and out of gear then go slightly less thread (longer stroke). If you feel a ton of resistance at the very bottom of the pedal travel (over-stroke condition) that means you need a little more thread showing. Please be careful and do a very very mild and brief test drive to confirm proper settings before driving anywhere or doing any pulls. Also remember to bleed the system properly before doing the pedal adjustment (if you just installed the CMC or clutch system). Always keep the freeplay (dead pedal) within the recommended range. If you need more travel, adjust the pedal height higher and then redo the freeplay, if you need less travel because you are over-stroking the clutch, then adjust the height of the pedal lower and redo the freeplay. If you have received different parameters recommended by your clutch manufacturer for your specific car and CMC/slave please try that first and see if you are satisfied. Also even if the clutch properly disengages it wont fix a problem with worn transmission synchronizers or other transmission issues**
MORE INFO:
The stock 8thgen civic si CMC has a reservoir that takes up fluid that is being pushed by the CMC rod when it feels pressure at the pressure plate, and it causes incomplete clutch release. The point of adjusting the clutch pedal height with the clutch height adjustment screw is to push more fluid into the CMC by the time the pedal reaches the firewall. If you change the height then it actually changes the amount of fluid being moved by the cmc, as long as you adjust the freeplay after the height adjustment the added pedal travel will result in more fluid being moved. This will change the amount the clutch actually releases, and it will raise the clutch bite point. If you don’t have enough pedal travel with these CMCs the clutch does not release properly due to the reservoir taking up fluid, and results in gear grinds.****
MODS:
K-Tuned 3.5 inch Cold Air Intake with Velocity Stack
Invidia N1 Catback Exhaust
Tanabe Upper Strut Bar
HFP Struts
ST Springs (KW)
Stage 1 Action Clutch
K-Tuned Clutch Master Cylinder
K-Tuned Slave Cylinder
FD2 Type-R Valve Cover
FD2 Type-R Dip Stck
DC5 Type-R Shift Knob
DC5 Type-R wheels caps
FD2 Type-R Honda Badges
J's racing Oil Cap
Vit viper Tuned
#honda
#VTEC
#civic
#mods
#k20
#ktuned
#actionclutch
Music: Markvard - Feel my Love (copyright free) Respect to the artist for the music - Авто та транспорт
Thank you! I just replaced my clutch and I was freaking out thinking I installed the fork or throw out bearing wrong. Followed your instructions and it works perfect! Your camera work in the video is fantastic too.
great to hear bro!
Amazing tutorial! Clear, concise, calm fluent commentary, very helpful visuals, superb info re thread adjustment for different clutch / cmc. Excellent, really helpful; thank you!
Such an amazingly positive comment, I truly appreciate it. These kind of comments I literally show my GF because it means a lot. Glad to help buddy!
This video was so clear and so helpful. No other video on youtube is close to as useful as this one. Thank you so much bro.
Glad to help!! thank you
this is one of the best videos i’ve seen on adjustment! keep it up watching a year later !
Wow bro I can't tell you how much I appreciate that. Thank you so much!!
Love you so much for this, My si was hard to shift after a new clutch install and followed this to realize a Honda dealership don't even know how to adjust a clutch on their own cars. Something so easy.
Hey thanks brother! Same thing happened to me, I got my clutch replaced at Honda and then it wasn't shifting smooth. Glad it helped you out, have fun bro!
Go queef those tires now, I want to see a video on that 🤣
@@crankZOD I'll get a nice close up for you
Just did this on my daughters civic, your instructions were so clear, it went perfectly. Hardest part was squeezing my oversized melon under the dash so I could see everything…excellent video, thanks!
Just did this adjustment and worked like a charm.
Thank you SO MUCH. I was having serious high-RPM shift lockout issues in my 8th gen FA5, and this solved everything. Car shifts like new and the catch point is way higher, more like an EP3.
katchF22 that’s really awesome to hear bro!! Have fun hitting VTEC! 🔥
came here to comment the same thing. I got my FA5 6 months ago and finally adjusted the clutch pedal. 7k+ RPM I was locked out of 2nd and 3rd. Now I have no problems. Super high engagement point! Huge gains from a 20 minute adjustment.
@@Visw Super good to hear man!! And thanks for commenting, it helps other people see the video and hopefully it will help them too
Really appreciate you making this video. My clutch was slipping so bad after I installed the Si CMC on my 08 Si. Now it feels like oem!
Hey that's awesome man!! glad to help
Bro!!! Can not thank you enough, owned my SI for 4 years and its running better than ever! Peace
Awesome bro! Super glad to hear that!!
I have a stock CMC and Slave with stage 1 exedy clutch and Fidanza flywheel. I Have been driving for a few thousands miles now and lately it has been getting a little hard going into gears. Thought I’d try this since I was told you need to adjust clutch pedal after a new clutch replacement. Did exactly what you said in the video and man, it feels like I got a new clutch. It feels even better when I got the car back with 0 miles on the new clutch. I owe you big time!
I'm a little late to the game but I got an fg2 a couple months back and this helped a shit ton. Much appreciated thanks for uploading this
Hey thanks so much for coming back and commenting, I really appreciate it. And glad that it helped you buddy!
This is by far the best camera work and explaination I’ve seen for cmc adjustment! I can actually see and understand what’s going on.
Very much appreciated, thank you!
Exactly what he said!
Facts
I really appreciate your tutorial, this is by far one of the BEST, most informative and clear steady camera video for an 8th gen clutch adjustment. Thank you!
thanks buddy I'm glad to hear! 🙏
still one of the best videos i’ve seen out there 💯💯🔥🔥
Thanks for your help ! Really,the best video i've found and it helped me a lot! I did this on my european Civic Tourer 2015,although they are different, the system is the same.There's not that much space down there,like you have.I couldn't reach 12mm nut on CMC,so i bent one of my 12-13mm wrenches to catch the nut properly.And no matter how much I turn the rod on CMC, I got no freeplay.But I left it as you described and it works perfect.Keep up the good work,bro!!!
awesome to hear that its working well! glad to help!
Best tutorial on adjusting clutch pedal by far, thanks 🙏, too bad I didn’t watch it before I almost ruin my clutch by not adjusting properly.
Thanks so much bro! and I hope your clutch is all good buddy! I almost did the same before I found out the right way
Excellent video. Super informational, no gimmicks, no extra bs, just straight knowledge. Respect
I'm about to try this soon on my 06 si b/c it engages super low. I'd like it halfway or alil lower than halfway. 1 thread for stock cmc right. And the rod turning is micro adjustments to go "a little" less than halfway. Hope i'm understanding it lol
🙏🙏🙏 thanks bro! It should make your pedal higher for sure, and should make shifting smoother. The height adjustment (threads) will change the engagement point dramatically. The rod (freeplay) changes it a little. You get it. But if you go to 1 thread it will be a little higher than halfway most likely. So maybe go to a little more threads showing if it really bothers you. Also make sure to always redo the freeplay after adjusting the threads. Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks dude, really appreciate it. Ok will do
This is the best video for clutch adjustment. Thank you
Just installed my cmc , I’m going to try this when I get home. People don’t forget he posted a proper bleeding method as well. Do both and you such be good to go! I cannot wait to go try this because my car is stuccccck 🤦♂️
Hey thanks bro!! I hope the adjustment helps 🙏🤙
thank you, will try to use this method for my 2010 mazda 6 6-speed, i believe it is the same (except for the clutch stop recommendations on the clutch stop number of threads, which might be different slightly).
great explanation and footage. Thanks for this
Best tutorial out there. Thanks man!
Thanks man! Glad to help!
freaking A man! I'm subbed, not even sure this will fix my problem but it sure was clear and concise.
Hey thanks buddy!! 🙌
Thanks for the video Jason!
Right on bro! Thank you for the comment!
Best clutch adjustment video I could find for my car thank you man 💯
Great to hear bro!
thanks for the help brotha, after swapping out my cmc i tried adjusting the clutch and failed miserably, was hard to pop into gear and rear was locking me into gear. After using this information, im getting into gear clean with no problem. crazy how this little adjustment is really important.
You made a great video here. Im having what I believe is disengagement issues. Every gear is shifting like i have no clutch and its lurching a tiny bit every time i get it in first gear. Im giving this a shot right now.
James Jetson I hope it helps!!
Clutch stopper was set at about 7 threads showing and the cmc was set all the way counterclockwise. Did the adjustments and it now shifts great. Owned it for 12 years now and never adjusted it till now. I assume thats how it comes from the factory. Vid was a big help, thanks.
@@jamesjetson3812 Great to hear!!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
hey dude , I read you're coment on Briana's video and thank you for youre suport and she can not waith for the game neather ;)
Thanks bud, yeah its gonna be awesome!
After watching this video
You got my car back on the road
Youve earned a new subscriber
ayyyy awesome to hear bro! And thank you, I'm trying to work on some new vids
Great video!
Great video. Mine grinds in 3rd sometimes. I just looked at how many threads mine is showing on the back end and it’s prob 7-8 lol it’s all factory also. So I am going to adjust it to only about one thread showing. Thank you so much. This should help my clutch so much.
I hope it helps buddy!
Did it help?
great video . I had problems banging gears after having Honda put In a new clutch and pressure plate. It shifts way smoother and I can bang gears without waiting for the revs to drop.I found out they had over 5 threads showing on the clutch pedal SMH!!! Thanks I appreciate the Help a lot.
Man it was the exact same for me, after I got my car back from Honda (clutch/flywheel) it didn't shift very smooth, which led me to make this video. So glad you are banging through gears again bro! Have fun
This worked for me thanks for the video. I saved a lot of money 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
heck yeah bro!!
Awesome video.
Super knowledgeable and overall really well done video. Keep up the good work man!
Thanks man I really appreciate it! Glad to help any way I can
Thanks bro I will try this out, my Rsx grinds on 3rd so hopefully this helps
did it work?
Just installed my em1 cmc and my ktuned slave, and your video helped dial everything up. I cant thank you enough! 🤙🤙
Excellent to hear buddy! Thank you for the super nice comment!
@@JasonMcMullen Okay so I've been driving it for a bit, and I can feel the clutch pedal vibrate now. Everything I've adjusted is to spec, I used all the right pieces. I didnt have any issues with the clutch pedal vibrating before I replaced the cmc and the slave. Is this due to my new setup do you think? Or could it be something totally different?
The Beldam hmm does it vibrate when using it or just anytime?
@@JasonMcMullen When I take up the freeplay and actually shift into another gear. Low rpms there's hardly any, but vibration is extremely high when im in Vtec. Im thinking its just more feedback from the trans due to the braided line?
The Beldam do you feel a lot of pressure on the pedal too, near the bottom of the stroke? If so you might have to make the pedal height lower (more thread showing) and then redo the freeplay. Because the em1 style cmc doesn’t need as much space to release. But the freeplay also affects it, so first try a couple more mm of freeplay. Most likely just adding a few mm of freeplay won’t be enough and you will have to make the pedal shorter then redo the freeplay to about 10mm. By doing so the stroke will get shorter and hopefully get rid of the pressure. If you don’t feel pressure but just weird vibration let me know. It could be that the slave cylinder rod needs urea grease or that something is wrong with the cmc/slave itself (a leak).
thx mate,it works!:) bit hustle with UK civic version ,few swerings and fixed:) thx!:)
hahah well I'm glad its working! awesome
Thanks for the insights 💯
Glad to help. Thanks for the Sub!!
Great video very Detailed
thank you sir!!
Bro my clutch is releasing too high… so I turn it clockwise ?
Thanks , help me a lot 👌🏻
Thank you so so so much for this❤️
Thanks for the comment bro, glad it helped!
Good explanation! What would happen if i do not tighten the nud on the rod again and drive?
amazing video thanks man
I refer so many people to your video. I know our cars CMC gets bad attention but I'm convinced a lot of people just have their clutch adjusted incorrectly and it accounts for a lot of their chunky gear changes.
wow thanks bro! I appreciate that! 🙏And yeah I agree, even I thought that until I adjusted mine
Good Lawd THANK YOU sir🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙌🏻
Mark Rubio glad to help sir
Highly skilled !!
Thanks I wish you were in hawaii and could help me!
Haha actually I do live in Hawaii 🤙🤙 (oahu)
This helps a lot, thankss clutch feels good
No prob, glad to hear
Thank you for this! I originally adjusted my push rod until it was completely tight, but after watching your video, I went back in and backed it off about half a turn. Thanks for the thorough explanation and great camera angles!
Excellent job dude. Wunderbar...... vielen Dank))
Thank you! Danke
Damn finally something that actually works!! Awesome shit dude m.
Glad it worked out well for you buddy! Have fun shifting
"A blessing from the Lord"
🙏🙏
Thank you for this video . Just drove my car for 1.5 years with the clutch 5 turns out of spec . Feels like a band new car again
Thanks!
This video helped. Only problem with mine is I can't freely move the rod into cmc. Nut is stuck on it. Had to vise grip the rod then wrench the nut tight.
oh, this is on a 08 TSX
Adjusted on my FG2. Feels just like my FG1. It really changed the clutch feel for the better
good to hear bro! 👏
Stock clutch? I just got a fg2 to I wanna get the shifting better kinda get notchy feel but I know it’s not synchros
Stock clutch will be very close to the stage 1 adjustment in the video, (about the same amount of threads showing) @@mrslapside
@@JasonMcMullen thanks! These k series are tricky at shifting hehe im new and use to the old 92 civic with b series 😂
Damn excellent!! Video
Thank you very much, hope it makes shifting nice for you
Thank you so much!
Hey man ur a God sent thanks so much
Glad it helped man!! 🙏🤙
Years later still helping people I really appreciate it. My only issue is I'm trying to figure out how to get my engagement lower. I love my pedal feel now but it's grabbing at the top. I tried adding more threads on the stopper and then readjusting the clutch rod but it seems to still be grabbing high. trying to understand the whole dynamics of this but I can't figure out what would give me a lower engagement point.
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply. Basically the freeplay will affect where the clutch grabs a little bit. But if you want it to grab 'a lot' sooner you have to make the pedal stroke shorter. So if you go to a little more threads showing and then redo the freeplay then the pedal will grab sooner because less fluid is pushed into the clutch line, so on the pedal release it wont grab quite as high up. However it might also make the clutch release a little less smooth. If its a comfort thing then just go little by little. Going to a K-tuned EM1 CMC will give you a shorter overall pedal travel but in my opinion makes it more difficult to drive in traffic because it engages right after you let the pedal up from the floor, and its more sensitive in general. But that's preference because I know some people are use to that
@@JasonMcMullen thanks for the reply I'll keep doing some tinkering and find the sweet spot
@@JasonMcMullenhey so I have a stage 2 competition clutch and I’m switching to a Ktuned CMC. Would I need .5-1 threads showing on the sensor?
This man was sent from heaven! I found so much contradicting information on different forums and this man knows what's up! So much better! You beautiful, beautiful human!
Lol this is by far the best comment I've ever seen. Thanks so much you splendid individual!! Happy to help in any way I can
And he's still actively in the comments, what did we do to deserve this! I was getting so frustrated haha. Someone needs to go hit the 8th civic forum and post this video on EVERY "CMC adjustment" thread!
@@ImPaCTSnYpEr I went through a lot of frustration before too so totally know what you mean! And thanks again!! You're too nice, its very much appreciated. And thanks for the Sub! (subbed back)
Didn't even realize this could be an issue. I do have occasional grinding, the classic 3rd gear grind on these. Saw that the clutch pedal isn't set up properly, so gonna give this a shot. Think mine had 2-3 threads showing. In a FA1 which I believe uses a different CMC but everything is setup pretty much the same.
Followup. I bought my FA1 used so idk if the previous owner adjusted it but having 1-1.5 thread showing and half turn from resistance point on CMC leaves you with veryyyy little freeplay . It's pretty nice since it feels really responsive and if you allow more freeplay it's pretty easy to have the push rod and cmc touching.
I'm gonna roll with it. It feels a lot more natural to me now
Hey did it fix ur grinding
did it fix the 3rd gear grind?
thank you
Hey whats up everyone im having some issues with my cmc and slave, I replaced my clutch,pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing with competition clutch 1.5 stage, 8 pound flywheel and also I installed the CMC and slave combo from Ktuned, this was about 10 moths ago, I drive every day this car about 40 miles per day sometimes with LA traffic and some spirit driving on weekends, around a moth ago my problems started, I was at a red light and right when I was taking off( releasing clutch) I feel the clutch “bitting as usual” but before I completely released it I felt the pedal clutch go kinda “soft” and the bite wasn’t as hard and the release point was higher, I had the clutch adjustment rod showing 5 treads since the day I installed everything and the cmc rod adjusted by my mechanic, I’ve been doing a lot of research on how to adjust the rod, I’ve watch videos and I clearly understand I have to spin it clockwise until you feel some kind of resistance, here’s my first problem, the ktuned cmc rod doesn’t spin just with your fingers, you have to use some pliers in order to spin it, so how I’m i supposed to feel the resistance everybody is talking about ?
Second problem: I went to my slave cylinder and I try to press it with my fingers and I just couldn’t is hard as a rock...tried again messing with the cmc rod, if I spin it clock wise my engagement feel higher and clutch pedal soft but if I spin it counterclockwise it will
Actually feel shorter and more firm, I know my slave cylinder is supposed to be able to move with my fingers so I went under the dash again today and I spin the rod counterclockwise more so I could try to fix my slave issue but when I tried to start up my car It just wouldn’t start, so I put the rod back in the position I adjusted first and everything was “ok” Again, also I would like to address that when I’m in traffic in first gear or second and I completely release the clutch without touching the gas my car still moves, like if I was gassing it a little bit or releasing just a little the clutch, what you guys think is my problem ? CMC or slave? I checked and any of them are leaking... clutch ? Throw out bearing ? I would really appreciate any help, thanks
thanks bro 🧨🤟
I measured the distance between the pedal and the floor board with carpet and insulation and it's only 4" and the factory spec is 6.1". If I deduct the thickness of the carpet and insulation, I would guess it's at around 5" which is still 1" low. At the current position, the clutch pedal is slightly lower than the brake pedal. If I adjust it to the factory spec, it will be about 1" higher than the brake pedal. Is this how it should be? I found the clutch travel is abit short ever since I got the car compared to the 9th gen si. I don't want to overstroke the clutch after the adjustment.
Great vid! I'm having issues with my 08 si clutch. Shifts perfectly when cold but a lot harder to shift when it warms up after about 30 minutes driving. Going to give this a shot! Any suggestions if this doesn't work?
Slightly Stoopid thanks buddy, I would say check the clutch lines for any leaks first, then adjust the clutch after. If that doesn’t help, perhaps bleeding the hydraulic system for air will also help
Any update for this im having the same problem
With the stock setting having so many threads showing from the back, engagement is short and tight. I just adjusted it, and it fixed my high rev lockout with 1 thread showing and the clutch release is much longer. Would showing something like 3-5 threads (or just something between stock and this adjustment) be okay as an in-between?
Quick question, just replaced my master cylinder for an LUK one on my FA5. The bite point was super high so I adjusted the master by turning it counter-clockwise till I felt resistance. You say to go back clockwise half a turn or so; however, when I do, the master cylinder rod becomes very loose to the touch. Is this normal? Thanks!
1999 Prelude with Competition Stage 2. Kinda the same adjustment? Stock master cylinder. I installed the clutch and my engagement point is way high.
i know im late i just got my clutch replaced and my clutch pedal feel wayyyyyy more softer now since i been riding on my first clutch for 130k miles and now its finally changed, but my question is even if i use OEM parts for my clutch will i have to adjust my pedal, and if so how much?
OMG... Only if you made this video 10 yrs ago......
Hey Jason, great video dude. More in depth than anything I've seen with others. So I was thinking about doing this on my 2011 Si I just picked up. 88k and serviced at Honda so the clutch and everything feels good. Only issue I'm having is when I'm shifting at high rpm in VTEC. For example, when I'm in 3rd pulling, it will shift into 4th okay (still have rev hang but if I time it right it shifts smooth) but as I'm pulling 4th and I go to shift into 5th, it will either grind for sec and then engage or just lock it out completely. Same goes for 6th sometimes too. I have Acuity shifter and base bushings, centering spring, and a weighted shift knob on the way right now. Planning on seeing what that does to the slop when shifting at high rpms. So if those don't solve the issue, would you recommend this as my next move? Only had the car a little over a week so I'd like to take care of this asap. Really appreciate it man 👍
Keith Fendley hey thanks man I really appreciate it! You can try to give yourself a little more release travel (less threads showing on the clutch height adjustment screw, then redo the freeplay). When I got my car back from Honda (after my stage 1 action clutch was installed) I had to adjust it a little also. It felt good but was too notchy. Just go little by little and see if it helps. Also measure the current freeplay with a ruler and note how many threads are showing just in case want to go back to your current settings
Can I use this guide for my 2005 acura tsx? I just installed the ktuned cmc and csc and I have a stage 2 clutch not sure which brand was used it was done by the previous owner
I have the hybrid cmc and used my stock rod 02 rsx type s. I’m having troubles finding the perfect spot. I had it adjusted to a decent spot but i tried to adjust it again and now I can’t get it back to that decent spot I had
When I did the em1 clutch master on my rsx I had to use the original pushrod from the old clutch master I could no get the master to bolt up it kept hitting the pedal even with it adjusted all the way back
With the K-tuned one you dont have to do that, but yes with other em1 units you may have to do that, there is a tutorial on the hybrid racing website for that
Recently install Hybrid Racing kit for my 2007 Honda Civic Si and reuse the OEM rod and bracket to my EM1 CMC. I follow the instructions and the next day my clutch pedal starts to make clucking/ squeaking nosies. I try to grease CMC but it didn't work. I even double check my work but the same noise happens even after being adjusted multiple time. It keeps on respawning back in the morning. Noise would die down for now.
squeaking can also be from not greasing the Slave Cylinder rod where it touches and moves the clutch fork. Urea grease is the best
Life saver
Austintaughtyou glad to help, thanks man
could you tell how i might tell if i should do this or need a new clutch in general
I have a ktuned cmc and slave kit on my 05 type s. I've bled the clutch fluid 3x for good measure and confirmed there is no bubbles anywhere. My question is, is it normal to have more than 10-15mm of freeplay after adjusting with 6 threads showing? Since its hard to turn the cmc rod with my fingers i had to use pliers, do I just adjust it till the cruise control switch is fully pressed and flushed? Btw I do have unknown stage 1 clutch and flywheel if that helps. Thankyou!
After doing this my clutch pedal is higher thank my brake pedal, is it suppose to be like that?
Outstanding video!
I just got the hard motion EM1 with slave. I have an Exedy stage one clutch. Hard Moton recommends swapping the piston rod with stock. So am I looking at 5ish threads based on the CMC/clutch or 2ish threads based on the push rod swap? Thank you in advance
P.S. I love the upper strut bar
Thank you so much! Try 2 threads but if you feel pressure at the bottom of the pedal when shifting at high RPM then shorten the pedal and maybe go to 5. Because you swap the rod, I think it will be closer to stock but I'm not sure so it might take some trial. Let me know what you end up at and I'll put it in the description
Jason, just installed and went with exactly two threads. Based on pedal feel it engages at about 2 inches off the floor. Feels perfect with no pressure that I can tell.
Thanks you.
@JasonMcMullen I have the ktuned em2 style cmc with an action clutch stage 5. Am I still looking at doing 5 threads showing? Also, great video. Seems to be helping out a lot of people. Keep it up.
For a stage five you might need a little more throw, maybe try 4-5 and see how it is. Feel free to go to less (or more) depending on how it operates. Just make sure to redo the freeplay adjustment after the thread adjustment. Also if you already have it adjusted, take a picture of where it's at now so you can have a baseline to go back to if anything
Thanks for the video it really helped but when I am adjusting free play on the cmc rod. I have to slightly push in the pedal or it won’t rotate the rod, if I have it anymore to the left then about 1.5 turns. But I am only at like 8 mm of few play at 1.5 turns back counterclockwise from all the way clock wise
Alex Christian can you rotate it more counter clockwise? If you can go another half turn or so counter clockwise it would be ideal, to try to get to 10mm. Usually it will rotate back out counterclockwise about 5 times before it hits the stopper (I know it’s hard to tell when you gotta push in the pedal). Let me know! Even having 8mm you probably won’t do any harm but it’s best to be safe and go by what Honda recommends
Jason McMullen I’ll try but I think the reason I have to push the pedal is because when the pedal is fully out the rod is contacting the cmc so I have found that point where it is just enough clockwise not to contact it but at that point it only has about 8mm of travel I think I will just have to see how that works
Jason McMullen well I took the car out to get groceries and it doesn’t seem to be having any problems I don’t smell or feel the clutch rubbing and I have just a hair of space in-between the rod and the cmc so It worked out I guess thank you for the tutorial dude. Every other one I’ve seen doesn’t even come close to how clear and detailed yours is
@@alexchristian5399 Good to hear bro!! Yeah its probably enough. And thanks man I really appreciate it!!
So my release bearing was already toasted, but I watched a video (prior to this) that was not as clear and adjusted the rod until it was super stiff, and rolled it over a few more times after that. I’m not 100% sure if I aided in the throwout bearing doing what it does now (squealing for it’s life whenever the clutch is not engaged, even when the car is moving in gear) but I’d better fix my adjustments.
Long story short: The idea is for the rod to just be sort of snug and not fully secured, correct?
Hey buddy, yeah you want the rod to have a little bit of freeplay, so once you thread it in until you feel resistance, then thread it out (counterclockwise) minimum a half turn, maybe more. When you check the the pedal freeplay with a ruler, the pedal has to have 10mm or more of freeplay (dead pedal). If you spin the rod counterclockwise more then it will give you even more freeplay. If the pedal has less than 10mm of dead pedal then its possible that the release bearing will still be hitting the clutch even with the pedal out, and it will damage the bearing and the clutch. I hope the adjustment helps, I know how it is because when I bought my car it already had a noisy/damaged release bearing so I eventually replaced the clutch/flywheel/bearing and it cost me some money, but hopefully you will be ok. And yeah the other videos that don't cover setting the proper amount of freeplay are kinda dangerous honestly, which is another reason why I made this video. Hope it helps bro
Does this fix last permanently or temporary? I adjusted the pushrod before and it began grinding again after a week
I have a RockAuto replacement CMC but a clutch master fx400... How many threads should be showing? I may have misunderstood
Would that be the same for an 06 acura tsx with act clutch and new master and slave from autozone?
what if i have an em2 cmc? do i adjust it as the em1 or the stock cmc?
I just adjust the paddle adjustment it got rid of my 2 gear lockout but my 4 gear high rpm grinds now, didn't do it before. What u think happen.
You can try to adjust the pedal a little further out (a little less thread showing on the bottom of the adjustment screw). As long as clutch has enough room to release it should operate properly in 4th also. Some people with k-series transmissions have worn sychros from so many years of shifting with the clutch not releasing fully, but you probably just need to adjust a tad more. As long as the clutch releases the rest is up to the transmission. My 3rd gear is a little notchy but with my clutch adjusted it doesn't grind. Let me know and I'll help anyway I can bro
So I have a Exedy oem em1 cmc with swapped rods from my ep3, and Exedy oem clutch , how many threads do I want showing?
Thanks..........
So if i have a sirimoto master cylinder aftermarket master cylinder would i go 5 threads in
Oooooo MYYYYY GOD!!! This was sooo helpful. I have a small question i replaced my OEM clutch with a Exedy stage 1 clutch + EFT fly wheel and im going to install a aftermarket CMC EM1 should i follow that same recommendation you mentioned in this video of leaving 5 threads on the under side? Please if anyone knows would be greatly appreciated thank you
is it the hybrid racing EM1 CMC or the K-tuned one?
Also thank you!!
@@JasonMcMullen its an Exedy cmc and smc thank you so much for replying
@@saitekina_og9271 Yeah should be around 5 threads. If you have trouble shifting then go to less threads and redo the freeplay
@@JasonMcMullen thank you so much! Will be trying this on the weekend once i get my new CMC
Two questions, does this help with EX civics at low RPM?
Hey Jason. I’m experiencing notchy shifting in 2nd and 3rd at low rpm’s driving normally rowing threw the gears. I have hybridracing shifter bushing on the trans cables. I’ve changed my fluid to oem. I don’t have this issue at high rpm’s shifts only regular driving. I tried your adjustment but I’m curious as to the free play part. Do you measure the pedal play or until you feel resistance on the pedal? If you know what I mean there is pedal play to where the clutch fluid is felt resistance or the pedal itself has a small amount of play before the resistance from the fluid is felt.
Until you feel pressure. You could try to readjust and make the pedal travel a little longer (less threads showing) and see if that helps with the notchy shifting, just readjust the freeplay after doing the threads
Hey man ! I have a Dc5 and I just installed a competition clutch stage 4 and reverse is grinding. PedAl is too low what recommendations do you have for the tread ?
try half thread or 1 thread showing and 10-12mm of freeplay (stock cmc)
My mechanic did this for me because it was really hard to shift, I’ve noticed though my clutch pedal is getting closer to the floor and it’s coming out of adjustment, before I saw that the nut by the yellow clutch switch the clutch was pushing on the switch/stopper, BUT now it’s very far from the clutch pedal and I can’t engage my cruise control anymore because the switch isn’t being pushed and the car thinks the clutch is pushed in 24/7. Should I readjust and use blue loctite or something? Because it was fine for about a week and now it’s coming out of adjustment again. Not sure if the CMC is just letting the rod sink into itself, I’m not having any leaks, so I’m gonna try and do this today see if I can get it good again. Once he did it to me my car felt like a whole new car, I stalled a few times getting used to the clutch engagement points being different on the pedal haha. Now it’s back to about how it was before I can only assume it’s coming out of adjustment, I want to loctite ? But maybe I should just adjust it like this first and see if I can get it really tight first, and wait to see if it works its way back out of adjustment. It was so bad before I was nearly locked out of 1st and reverse. So hard to shift because I really wasn’t using my entire clutch pedal because of how bad it was.
Nova hmm yeah try to adjust it, tighten everything down, take a picture of the cruise control switch/stopper so you can keep track of the position of it. Measure the freeplay with a ruler so you can check it again later. In my experience there is no need for loctite, but maybe there is some oil or fluid on the threads? Can try wiping it with some brake parts cleaner
@@JasonMcMullen I tried adjusting the nut out so I can spin the rod and the nut is now stuck all the way back on the rod. Also the rod was incredibly hard to twist, I actually twisted the rod using the nut and I’m not able to get pliers in there to hold the rod while breaking the nut free it’s stuck on the threads, didn’t use loctite :( adjustment is ok now but idk for how long with the nut all the way back
@@JasonMcMullen I just had a few beers went out and hit it again and got it first try cracked the nut loose with pliers and tightened down thanks so much for the video Comrade!
@@Novaah803 lol nice! Good to hear bro! Also if you push the pedal down very slightly it will make the rod easy to spin