Love you so much for this, My si was hard to shift after a new clutch install and followed this to realize a Honda dealership don't even know how to adjust a clutch on their own cars. Something so easy.
Hey thanks brother! Same thing happened to me, I got my clutch replaced at Honda and then it wasn't shifting smooth. Glad it helped you out, have fun bro!
I really appreciate your tutorial, this is by far one of the BEST, most informative and clear steady camera video for an 8th gen clutch adjustment. Thank you!
how many threads did you go out? mine was at like 4.5 stock clutch i lowered it to 2.5 threads showing and it shifts way better and catches earlier but still has some grinds
Thank you! I just replaced my clutch and I was freaking out thinking I installed the fork or throw out bearing wrong. Followed your instructions and it works perfect! Your camera work in the video is fantastic too.
Amazing tutorial! Clear, concise, calm fluent commentary, very helpful visuals, superb info re thread adjustment for different clutch / cmc. Excellent, really helpful; thank you!
I have a stock CMC and Slave with stage 1 exedy clutch and Fidanza flywheel. I Have been driving for a few thousands miles now and lately it has been getting a little hard going into gears. Thought I’d try this since I was told you need to adjust clutch pedal after a new clutch replacement. Did exactly what you said in the video and man, it feels like I got a new clutch. It feels even better when I got the car back with 0 miles on the new clutch. I owe you big time!
Years later still helping people I really appreciate it. My only issue is I'm trying to figure out how to get my engagement lower. I love my pedal feel now but it's grabbing at the top. I tried adding more threads on the stopper and then readjusting the clutch rod but it seems to still be grabbing high. trying to understand the whole dynamics of this but I can't figure out what would give me a lower engagement point.
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply. Basically the freeplay will affect where the clutch grabs a little bit. But if you want it to grab 'a lot' sooner you have to make the pedal stroke shorter. So if you go to a little more threads showing and then redo the freeplay then the pedal will grab sooner because less fluid is pushed into the clutch line, so on the pedal release it wont grab quite as high up. However it might also make the clutch release a little less smooth. If its a comfort thing then just go little by little. Going to a K-tuned EM1 CMC will give you a shorter overall pedal travel but in my opinion makes it more difficult to drive in traffic because it engages right after you let the pedal up from the floor, and its more sensitive in general. But that's preference because I know some people are use to that
I refer so many people to your video. I know our cars CMC gets bad attention but I'm convinced a lot of people just have their clutch adjusted incorrectly and it accounts for a lot of their chunky gear changes.
Thank you SO MUCH. I was having serious high-RPM shift lockout issues in my 8th gen FA5, and this solved everything. Car shifts like new and the catch point is way higher, more like an EP3.
came here to comment the same thing. I got my FA5 6 months ago and finally adjusted the clutch pedal. 7k+ RPM I was locked out of 2nd and 3rd. Now I have no problems. Super high engagement point! Huge gains from a 20 minute adjustment.
Just did this on my daughters civic, your instructions were so clear, it went perfectly. Hardest part was squeezing my oversized melon under the dash so I could see everything…excellent video, thanks!
thanks for the help brotha, after swapping out my cmc i tried adjusting the clutch and failed miserably, was hard to pop into gear and rear was locking me into gear. After using this information, im getting into gear clean with no problem. crazy how this little adjustment is really important.
Excellent video. Super informational, no gimmicks, no extra bs, just straight knowledge. Respect I'm about to try this soon on my 06 si b/c it engages super low. I'd like it halfway or alil lower than halfway. 1 thread for stock cmc right. And the rod turning is micro adjustments to go "a little" less than halfway. Hope i'm understanding it lol
🙏🙏🙏 thanks bro! It should make your pedal higher for sure, and should make shifting smoother. The height adjustment (threads) will change the engagement point dramatically. The rod (freeplay) changes it a little. You get it. But if you go to 1 thread it will be a little higher than halfway most likely. So maybe go to a little more threads showing if it really bothers you. Also make sure to always redo the freeplay after adjusting the threads. Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks
This man was sent from heaven! I found so much contradicting information on different forums and this man knows what's up! So much better! You beautiful, beautiful human!
And he's still actively in the comments, what did we do to deserve this! I was getting so frustrated haha. Someone needs to go hit the 8th civic forum and post this video on EVERY "CMC adjustment" thread!
@@ImPaCTSnYpEr I went through a lot of frustration before too so totally know what you mean! And thanks again!! You're too nice, its very much appreciated. And thanks for the Sub! (subbed back)
Just installed my cmc , I’m going to try this when I get home. People don’t forget he posted a proper bleeding method as well. Do both and you such be good to go! I cannot wait to go try this because my car is stuccccck 🤦♂️
You made a great video here. Im having what I believe is disengagement issues. Every gear is shifting like i have no clutch and its lurching a tiny bit every time i get it in first gear. Im giving this a shot right now.
Clutch stopper was set at about 7 threads showing and the cmc was set all the way counterclockwise. Did the adjustments and it now shifts great. Owned it for 12 years now and never adjusted it till now. I assume thats how it comes from the factory. Vid was a big help, thanks.
@@JasonMcMullen Okay so I've been driving it for a bit, and I can feel the clutch pedal vibrate now. Everything I've adjusted is to spec, I used all the right pieces. I didnt have any issues with the clutch pedal vibrating before I replaced the cmc and the slave. Is this due to my new setup do you think? Or could it be something totally different?
@@JasonMcMullen When I take up the freeplay and actually shift into another gear. Low rpms there's hardly any, but vibration is extremely high when im in Vtec. Im thinking its just more feedback from the trans due to the braided line?
The Beldam do you feel a lot of pressure on the pedal too, near the bottom of the stroke? If so you might have to make the pedal height lower (more thread showing) and then redo the freeplay. Because the em1 style cmc doesn’t need as much space to release. But the freeplay also affects it, so first try a couple more mm of freeplay. Most likely just adding a few mm of freeplay won’t be enough and you will have to make the pedal shorter then redo the freeplay to about 10mm. By doing so the stroke will get shorter and hopefully get rid of the pressure. If you don’t feel pressure but just weird vibration let me know. It could be that the slave cylinder rod needs urea grease or that something is wrong with the cmc/slave itself (a leak).
Thanks! This video helped. Only problem with mine is I can't freely move the rod into cmc. Nut is stuck on it. Had to vise grip the rod then wrench the nut tight.
9:20 your explanation is great but it was hard to see which way you were turning the push rod. Was clockwise movement turning the rod left (toward centre console) and anticlockwise turning rod toward the right (or toward the brake pedal)? It was hard to tell at the final demo with the unit on the table. Thx Also will this help my low bite point where I can't help but sometimes drag the clutch where there is a often a horrific squeal where it seems I'm riding the clutch
@@JasonMcMullen Ah thx Jason, just didn't want to mess up the direction of the push rod (being dyslexic and that). Using my thumb on the bottom of the rod and moving my thumb to the left ((a)clockwise?) and then right ((b)anticlockwise?) (if you get my meaning);if this is correct, which direction (a or b) extends the rod toward the foot pedal stop ( correct?) And then which direction (a or b) is the half turn? Finally another vid says pedal adjustment on stock clutch is up to 2 threads long and yours just half a thread. What is best? Really appreciate this. Hope to fall in love with my 8th gen euro accord again if I can just get this darn clutch right from being too low😫
@@bronniesboy Yeah clockwise till you feel a tiny bit of resistance, then half a turn counterclockwise (can go full turn also). Basically this just resets the freeplay after the height adjustment (the thread count showing) If you go to less threads showing, then the bite point will be higher. So if you go to 2 threads (stock) it will bite shortly after the pedal leaves the floor. But half thread will rise the bite point to about half way up
@JasonMcMullen I have the ktuned em2 style cmc with an action clutch stage 5. Am I still looking at doing 5 threads showing? Also, great video. Seems to be helping out a lot of people. Keep it up.
For a stage five you might need a little more throw, maybe try 4-5 and see how it is. Feel free to go to less (or more) depending on how it operates. Just make sure to redo the freeplay adjustment after the thread adjustment. Also if you already have it adjusted, take a picture of where it's at now so you can have a baseline to go back to if anything
Didn't even realize this could be an issue. I do have occasional grinding, the classic 3rd gear grind on these. Saw that the clutch pedal isn't set up properly, so gonna give this a shot. Think mine had 2-3 threads showing. In a FA1 which I believe uses a different CMC but everything is setup pretty much the same. Followup. I bought my FA1 used so idk if the previous owner adjusted it but having 1-1.5 thread showing and half turn from resistance point on CMC leaves you with veryyyy little freeplay . It's pretty nice since it feels really responsive and if you allow more freeplay it's pretty easy to have the push rod and cmc touching. I'm gonna roll with it. It feels a lot more natural to me now
great video . I had problems banging gears after having Honda put In a new clutch and pressure plate. It shifts way smoother and I can bang gears without waiting for the revs to drop.I found out they had over 5 threads showing on the clutch pedal SMH!!! Thanks I appreciate the Help a lot.
Man it was the exact same for me, after I got my car back from Honda (clutch/flywheel) it didn't shift very smooth, which led me to make this video. So glad you are banging through gears again bro! Have fun
Recently install Hybrid Racing kit for my 2007 Honda Civic Si and reuse the OEM rod and bracket to my EM1 CMC. I follow the instructions and the next day my clutch pedal starts to make clucking/ squeaking nosies. I try to grease CMC but it didn't work. I even double check my work but the same noise happens even after being adjusted multiple time. It keeps on respawning back in the morning. Noise would die down for now.
Thanks for your help ! Really,the best video i've found and it helped me a lot! I did this on my european Civic Tourer 2015,although they are different, the system is the same.There's not that much space down there,like you have.I couldn't reach 12mm nut on CMC,so i bent one of my 12-13mm wrenches to catch the nut properly.And no matter how much I turn the rod on CMC, I got no freeplay.But I left it as you described and it works perfect.Keep up the good work,bro!!!
Oooooo MYYYYY GOD!!! This was sooo helpful. I have a small question i replaced my OEM clutch with a Exedy stage 1 clutch + EFT fly wheel and im going to install a aftermarket CMC EM1 should i follow that same recommendation you mentioned in this video of leaving 5 threads on the under side? Please if anyone knows would be greatly appreciated thank you
So, what I am taking away from this Is that the free play is the most important part, and that you can raise/lower the pedal engagement point with the stopper - as long as free play is adjusted to in spec all is well?
yeah but also the engagement point changes the amount that the clutch releases, so people who have issues with grinding and non-smooth shifting can change the engagement point in order to fix that issue
I just replaced my clutch to a stage 1 action clutch and have the hybrid racing cmc. The instructions for the cmc said to replace the rod with the stock rod. So do I have half to one thread showing? Or 5 threads showing? TIA!
I noticed in the description you now advise 2 threads for EM1 cmc. I see you credited someone for this info, but how did this come about when it's been the 5 threads for so long? I can't find any other information about this.
Hybrid Racing one is 2 threads because you swap the rod (so its close to stock adjustment), the k tuned em1 style and the aftermarket Em1 are still 5 threads
Great vid! I'm having issues with my 08 si clutch. Shifts perfectly when cold but a lot harder to shift when it warms up after about 30 minutes driving. Going to give this a shot! Any suggestions if this doesn't work?
Slightly Stoopid thanks buddy, I would say check the clutch lines for any leaks first, then adjust the clutch after. If that doesn’t help, perhaps bleeding the hydraulic system for air will also help
How do you know if you need to replace vs adjust the stock cmc? 07 fg2 currenty having crunchy shifting and can’t shift at high rpm. Have gotten stuck in reverse(have to stall or turn the car off to get out) and not able to shift into first after a stop until I pump the clutch pedal a couple times. I feel like the clutch isn’t fully disengaging at times. Sorry for the paragraph lol
@@yojerico6057 sadly no, I did the cmc adjustment and it helped smooth out the shifting but still not the fix. I probably have to get the clutch replaced. The only reason I haven’t done it already is because the problems are intermittent so it’s throwing me a curve ball. Don’t want to spend $1000 only to find it’s not the problem
@@5.7tundra it worked for me, it takes a couple adjustments to get it perfect. Just be sure to find out what the actual problem is rather than wasting time and money
I have a ktuned cmc and slave kit on my 05 type s. I've bled the clutch fluid 3x for good measure and confirmed there is no bubbles anywhere. My question is, is it normal to have more than 10-15mm of freeplay after adjusting with 6 threads showing? Since its hard to turn the cmc rod with my fingers i had to use pliers, do I just adjust it till the cruise control switch is fully pressed and flushed? Btw I do have unknown stage 1 clutch and flywheel if that helps. Thankyou!
I have the hybrid cmc and used my stock rod 02 rsx type s. I’m having troubles finding the perfect spot. I had it adjusted to a decent spot but i tried to adjust it again and now I can’t get it back to that decent spot I had
As i believe the hybrid racing clutch master cyliner is a em1 right? In the directions it says change the pushrods from stock cmc so then i wouldnt need as much thread showimg on the button, correct?
I've owned my 09 civic si since brand new. This was going to be my weekend project, but when i got down there, the cylinder threads were already positioned in your final position!!! 🤔🤔
@@JasonMcMullen I recently had a high rpm grind from 1st to 2nd gear which lead me to google the fix!! Thanks to you and your vid. I ended up making a small adjustment to the cylinder where and exposed one more line of thread. Driving today felt great. Small difference but my heel-toes are much smoother 🙂
I'm having issue with adjusting the CMC rod,I can't turn it either way, I also have 5 threads showing(k tuned CMC and slave) bleed the whole system 4 times to make sure there was no air and yeah there's a lot of play in the clutch pedal and the fork barely moves,I tried to do it by pressing the pedal a bit and turning it but it didn't work😕.
do you have a ruler to measure the freeplay? Most likely there is too much. If you thread the nut down then you might be able to turn it with that but the nut might get stuck too. You could also try to go to less threads showing and it might add enough throw to make the fork move. Its really tough to do when the threads on the rod are damaged but it is possible using measurements. Worst case, you can put a little lube in the area, then spray it with a little brake parts cleaner once it is in the right place
@@JasonMcMullen I got it working, guess what was the problem? The pedal was broken from left side and had to weld it 😂FML I spend 4 days and a new CMC and slave on it.
thank you, will try to use this method for my 2010 mazda 6 6-speed, i believe it is the same (except for the clutch stop recommendations on the clutch stop number of threads, which might be different slightly).
Is it suppose to be em2 or em1 clutch master? Im trying to understand what you are saying but I’m not following. I bought a em2 master for my rsx but it has over almost 2 inches of freeplay. Need advice.
Most people use an em1 but some people use an em2. My video is for em1 but the em2 is similar. Basically if you are having trouble shifting then you need to make the pedal longer, and you can do that by going to less threads showing on the adjustment screw. For freeplay, the rod will let you adjust the freeplay after adjusting the height. If you spin it clockwise and then lock it down (with the nut) then it will give you less freeplay. You want about 10mm of freeplay.
i know im late i just got my clutch replaced and my clutch pedal feel wayyyyyy more softer now since i been riding on my first clutch for 130k miles and now its finally changed, but my question is even if i use OEM parts for my clutch will i have to adjust my pedal, and if so how much?
My mechanic did this for me because it was really hard to shift, I’ve noticed though my clutch pedal is getting closer to the floor and it’s coming out of adjustment, before I saw that the nut by the yellow clutch switch the clutch was pushing on the switch/stopper, BUT now it’s very far from the clutch pedal and I can’t engage my cruise control anymore because the switch isn’t being pushed and the car thinks the clutch is pushed in 24/7. Should I readjust and use blue loctite or something? Because it was fine for about a week and now it’s coming out of adjustment again. Not sure if the CMC is just letting the rod sink into itself, I’m not having any leaks, so I’m gonna try and do this today see if I can get it good again. Once he did it to me my car felt like a whole new car, I stalled a few times getting used to the clutch engagement points being different on the pedal haha. Now it’s back to about how it was before I can only assume it’s coming out of adjustment, I want to loctite ? But maybe I should just adjust it like this first and see if I can get it really tight first, and wait to see if it works its way back out of adjustment. It was so bad before I was nearly locked out of 1st and reverse. So hard to shift because I really wasn’t using my entire clutch pedal because of how bad it was.
Nova hmm yeah try to adjust it, tighten everything down, take a picture of the cruise control switch/stopper so you can keep track of the position of it. Measure the freeplay with a ruler so you can check it again later. In my experience there is no need for loctite, but maybe there is some oil or fluid on the threads? Can try wiping it with some brake parts cleaner
@@JasonMcMullen I tried adjusting the nut out so I can spin the rod and the nut is now stuck all the way back on the rod. Also the rod was incredibly hard to twist, I actually twisted the rod using the nut and I’m not able to get pliers in there to hold the rod while breaking the nut free it’s stuck on the threads, didn’t use loctite :( adjustment is ok now but idk for how long with the nut all the way back
@@JasonMcMullen I just had a few beers went out and hit it again and got it first try cracked the nut loose with pliers and tightened down thanks so much for the video Comrade!
Quick question, just replaced my master cylinder for an LUK one on my FA5. The bite point was super high so I adjusted the master by turning it counter-clockwise till I felt resistance. You say to go back clockwise half a turn or so; however, when I do, the master cylinder rod becomes very loose to the touch. Is this normal? Thanks!
When I did the em1 clutch master on my rsx I had to use the original pushrod from the old clutch master I could no get the master to bolt up it kept hitting the pedal even with it adjusted all the way back
With the K-tuned one you dont have to do that, but yes with other em1 units you may have to do that, there is a tutorial on the hybrid racing website for that
Hey Jason, I have a 2002 RSX. Just got the transmission rebuild and got a 1.5 stage Competition Clutch installed. My mechanic told me he didn't feel like he needed to adjust the clutch pedal. The clutch grabs pretty low compared to before. Sometimes when I'm at a stop light, I can't shift into 1st and some gears are hard to shift into. At one point I couldn't shift into 1st at all, it was like I wasn't pressing in the clutch. I will look into adjusting the clutch pedal following your video instructions. Since the clutch is grabbing pretty low, that means I want to adjust the rod for more freeplay, yes? I appreciate your input!
The freeplay only affects it a little bit, most likely you are gonna want to go to less threads showing, which lengthens the pedal travel. Always redo the freeplay after adjusting the pedal travel because it throws it off when you do. From what you said, an adjustment will certainly help, the pedal will grab higher and the shifting should be smoother after
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the reply Jason! So I adjusted the screw, it was way off. It had like 10 threads over. Once I adjusted it to 1.5 threads, the shifting is much smoother. But now I have a new problem. When I'm in neutral in idle, I now hear a slight chatter noise. Once I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. Any ideas? This noise was not there when before adjusting the pedal. Thanks!
@@JasonMcMullen I have a 5 speed base with a Type-S clutch and flywheel. I will go 2-3 threads and see if I can achieve a sweet spot. And I'll double check the free play distance
Old video so no clue if I will get an answer. Have a Hybrid Racing cmc which is a em1 style with a swapped stock rod. Currently have 5 threads showing and my clutch engagement/disengagement is very top of pedal and clutch after almost 6 months is starting to slip. But I think it that it might not be fully engaging. Wondering if adjusting it to 2 threads showing if it will change where the clutch is engaging/disengaging.
@Jason McMullen yea we did a transmission rebuild with hybrid racing slave/master cylinder, cables, shifters detent springs etc. Friend doing it has been a Honda Tech for 15 years and is very picky about his cars. So I am pretty sure if my stage 4 clutch was in need of replacing he would of told me. So going to try this before replacing clutch.
Thanks for sharing. In my Honda manual it also states to adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch along with the other two adjustments shown in this video, did you also adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch or it's not necessarily necessary unless the car gives you an issue with start-up? Thank you
Hey buddy, most people dont have to but if you have any problems starting the car then adjust it according to the manual, I believe it says to adjust it so that the car still starts even with your foot about 10mm off the floor
@@JasonMcMullen Thank you for the insight. I have another question, if I turn the pushrod going into the CMC all the way clockwise till resistance is felt then turn back counter clockwise one full turn and lock it down, with the clutch switch adjusted so that the bottom of the threads just touches the clutch pedal released plus an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn, I still have more free-play than I would like. From my understanding the above process is to adjust the clutch pedal height from the ground (6.5"), will re-adjusting the CMC rod possibly a half-turn clockwise without touching the clutch switch remove some free-play without affecting the pedal height since it has already been established? It's tricky to know how far clockwise you can go with the CMC pushrod because when you feel slight resistance with the clutch pedal released, if you turn slightly more it get's very loose almost as if the rod is being removed from the CMC. If I adjust the CMC rod with the clutch pedal slightly pushed in, then its even more tricky to know how far you can turn clockwise before it gets very loose again because the resistance is so slight. The clutch has been bleed and it's an OEM replacement Exedy clutch kit and stock CMC. Thank you.
@@vanquishstorm3806 Hey buddy, the best way to deal with freeplay is with a mm ruler, that way you can make sure you have enough, it can be very tricky to know like you said, especially if the cmc is not turning smoothly. Most likely you can just remove a little freeplay but its best to measure after to make sure you have at least 9-10mm (to ensure the throw-out bearing is not being engaged with the pedal up). Using a brand new cmc it spins easy so its not really a problem. Using a new one I can count the amount of turns it takes to go all the way in and the amount it takes to go all the way out (you dont want it to be either all the way in or all the way out)
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the insight. Being that I'm adjusting the pushrod in the original old CMC in my car, it doesn't turn as smoothly which can make it tricky to gauge if you are too far out in adjustment. I'm going to measure all of my adjustments with a ruler to verify that I am within specification. Thanks again.
@@JasonMcMullenMy apology for all the questions, as far as engaging/disengaging the clutch, if you dont have enough freeplay than the clutch pedal when released may always remain slightly engaged (friction disc applied on flywheel/ release bearing possibly touching pressure plate)? Disengaging the clutch would therefore be the opposite (clutch pedal pressed to the floor/friction disc not applied to flywheel)? I recently installed a new clutch and the car drove fine for about a month and now I cant get it into gear with the car running. I can get in all my gears with the car turned off aswell the CMC is not leaking. With this issue, the pedal had very little pressure engaging closer towards the ground. I bled the clutch yesterday and regained pedal pressure but I'm assuming I will also need to dial in the freeplay since the friction disc is now most likely broken in. The issue that I am having with the pedal engagement low to the ground and the car not going into gear with the car running, is that an issue engaging or disengaging the clutch? Also, could this have caused any harm to the clutch/trans not being able to go in gear? When I drove the car everything was functioning properly. Thank you for your time.
Outstanding video! I just got the hard motion EM1 with slave. I have an Exedy stage one clutch. Hard Moton recommends swapping the piston rod with stock. So am I looking at 5ish threads based on the CMC/clutch or 2ish threads based on the push rod swap? Thank you in advance P.S. I love the upper strut bar
Thank you so much! Try 2 threads but if you feel pressure at the bottom of the pedal when shifting at high RPM then shorten the pedal and maybe go to 5. Because you swap the rod, I think it will be closer to stock but I'm not sure so it might take some trial. Let me know what you end up at and I'll put it in the description
Jason, just installed and went with exactly two threads. Based on pedal feel it engages at about 2 inches off the floor. Feels perfect with no pressure that I can tell.
You can try to adjust the pedal a little further out (a little less thread showing on the bottom of the adjustment screw). As long as clutch has enough room to release it should operate properly in 4th also. Some people with k-series transmissions have worn sychros from so many years of shifting with the clutch not releasing fully, but you probably just need to adjust a tad more. As long as the clutch releases the rest is up to the transmission. My 3rd gear is a little notchy but with my clutch adjusted it doesn't grind. Let me know and I'll help anyway I can bro
So my release bearing was already toasted, but I watched a video (prior to this) that was not as clear and adjusted the rod until it was super stiff, and rolled it over a few more times after that. I’m not 100% sure if I aided in the throwout bearing doing what it does now (squealing for it’s life whenever the clutch is not engaged, even when the car is moving in gear) but I’d better fix my adjustments. Long story short: The idea is for the rod to just be sort of snug and not fully secured, correct?
Hey buddy, yeah you want the rod to have a little bit of freeplay, so once you thread it in until you feel resistance, then thread it out (counterclockwise) minimum a half turn, maybe more. When you check the the pedal freeplay with a ruler, the pedal has to have 10mm or more of freeplay (dead pedal). If you spin the rod counterclockwise more then it will give you even more freeplay. If the pedal has less than 10mm of dead pedal then its possible that the release bearing will still be hitting the clutch even with the pedal out, and it will damage the bearing and the clutch. I hope the adjustment helps, I know how it is because when I bought my car it already had a noisy/damaged release bearing so I eventually replaced the clutch/flywheel/bearing and it cost me some money, but hopefully you will be ok. And yeah the other videos that don't cover setting the proper amount of freeplay are kinda dangerous honestly, which is another reason why I made this video. Hope it helps bro
just got an fa5 clutch is really hard car action clutch not sure what stage it is wondering if adjusting it will help specially with engage i feel like it engages really hard
Great video. Mine grinds in 3rd sometimes. I just looked at how many threads mine is showing on the back end and it’s prob 7-8 lol it’s all factory also. So I am going to adjust it to only about one thread showing. Thank you so much. This should help my clutch so much.
Hey man, awesome video, but I was wondering when you say with the upgraded EM1 CMC does that include if you change the pushrod from the old stock CMC over to the new upgraded CMC?
I measured the distance between the pedal and the floor board with carpet and insulation and it's only 4" and the factory spec is 6.1". If I deduct the thickness of the carpet and insulation, I would guess it's at around 5" which is still 1" low. At the current position, the clutch pedal is slightly lower than the brake pedal. If I adjust it to the factory spec, it will be about 1" higher than the brake pedal. Is this how it should be? I found the clutch travel is abit short ever since I got the car compared to the 9th gen si. I don't want to overstroke the clutch after the adjustment.
I have a ktuned slave and cmc kit, question is how do I know when to stop turning the rod on the master? Turning the rod with fingers is impossible so I have to use a pliers to turn it
So you can also use a ruler to just check the freeplay instead of stopping and backing out. Also try to push down the pedal a little with one hand while turning the rod, it usually makes it easier. Then check the freeplay amount. The reason you do that is because after you change the height of the pedal, the rod has to be reset also (to the correct range). Lmk if you got any more questions buddy
@@JasonMcMullen one more question actually, before I get into my question I just want to say I have bled my clutch master 3 times and confirmed no air bubbles. My question is, after 30mins of driving my clutch pedals seems to get a little stiffer and also engagement point becomes a little higher. Before driving in the morning I would check my freeplay with my hand without any force and there would be atleast .5inch of freeplay, but after driving for a while the freeplay seems to be gone
@@Itspiyerrrr fluid does heat up a little so it could change a little. If you not experiencing shifting issues then you could give it a bit more freeplay just to be safe. Air in the system will make the pedal softer so you probably did the bleeding just fine. Pedal stiffness will increase after adjusting but you dont want it to feel extremely stiff at the bottom of the pedal travel (if you do feel it at the bottom of the stroke then the pedal height might be too high and you might have to readjust both again)
@@JasonMcMullen I just find it weird, but car is shifting a whole lot better after I adjusted it with your instruction. The ktuned cmc I believe is a em2 style so I have 2 threads showing on the bottom of the clutch switch, I adjusted it like how I would adjust a stock cmc. Unless I need to have 5-6 threads showing like the em1 style?
The k-tuned one is Em1 style, so it does not need as long of a travel. Maybe go a little shorter (more threads showing) and see if the pressure is not as extreme. You can go one thread at a time so maybe try 3-4 and see if you can find a balance between shifting smooth and normal pressure. Also keep in mind that when the car is cold the shifting will be less smooth because the trans fluid has not had time to circulate and warm up. @@Itspiyerrrr
Thanks for the video it really helped but when I am adjusting free play on the cmc rod. I have to slightly push in the pedal or it won’t rotate the rod, if I have it anymore to the left then about 1.5 turns. But I am only at like 8 mm of few play at 1.5 turns back counterclockwise from all the way clock wise
Alex Christian can you rotate it more counter clockwise? If you can go another half turn or so counter clockwise it would be ideal, to try to get to 10mm. Usually it will rotate back out counterclockwise about 5 times before it hits the stopper (I know it’s hard to tell when you gotta push in the pedal). Let me know! Even having 8mm you probably won’t do any harm but it’s best to be safe and go by what Honda recommends
Jason McMullen I’ll try but I think the reason I have to push the pedal is because when the pedal is fully out the rod is contacting the cmc so I have found that point where it is just enough clockwise not to contact it but at that point it only has about 8mm of travel I think I will just have to see how that works
Jason McMullen well I took the car out to get groceries and it doesn’t seem to be having any problems I don’t smell or feel the clutch rubbing and I have just a hair of space in-between the rod and the cmc so It worked out I guess thank you for the tutorial dude. Every other one I’ve seen doesn’t even come close to how clear and detailed yours is
I’ve got the ktuned master and slave coming in the mail, is it definitely an em1 style? Just wondering if that company sells more than 1 style for the 8th gen. don’t want to mess up my brand new clutch and rebuilt trans! Thanks
yes sir, the k-tuned one is a modified EM1 CMC (it has an AN fitting) and its the one that I used. It should be around 5 threads showing. If you run it with 1 thread showing it will over-stroke the system. In my opinion, K-tuned should provide some instructions because I caused issues for me before I learned about adjusting it.
Hey I have a stage 2 clutch w hybrid racing em1 cmc and csc upgrade kit, i cant get the pushrod to spin freely, the nut is all the way loose but the push rod wont move
You can try to push down the pedal a little bit with one hand while trying to spin the rod with the other hand. Just make sure to use a ruler to measure the freeplay after to make sure you are at the right amount
With the stock setting having so many threads showing from the back, engagement is short and tight. I just adjusted it, and it fixed my high rev lockout with 1 thread showing and the clutch release is much longer. Would showing something like 3-5 threads (or just something between stock and this adjustment) be okay as an in-between?
Hey whats up everyone im having some issues with my cmc and slave, I replaced my clutch,pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing with competition clutch 1.5 stage, 8 pound flywheel and also I installed the CMC and slave combo from Ktuned, this was about 10 moths ago, I drive every day this car about 40 miles per day sometimes with LA traffic and some spirit driving on weekends, around a moth ago my problems started, I was at a red light and right when I was taking off( releasing clutch) I feel the clutch “bitting as usual” but before I completely released it I felt the pedal clutch go kinda “soft” and the bite wasn’t as hard and the release point was higher, I had the clutch adjustment rod showing 5 treads since the day I installed everything and the cmc rod adjusted by my mechanic, I’ve been doing a lot of research on how to adjust the rod, I’ve watch videos and I clearly understand I have to spin it clockwise until you feel some kind of resistance, here’s my first problem, the ktuned cmc rod doesn’t spin just with your fingers, you have to use some pliers in order to spin it, so how I’m i supposed to feel the resistance everybody is talking about ? Second problem: I went to my slave cylinder and I try to press it with my fingers and I just couldn’t is hard as a rock...tried again messing with the cmc rod, if I spin it clock wise my engagement feel higher and clutch pedal soft but if I spin it counterclockwise it will Actually feel shorter and more firm, I know my slave cylinder is supposed to be able to move with my fingers so I went under the dash again today and I spin the rod counterclockwise more so I could try to fix my slave issue but when I tried to start up my car It just wouldn’t start, so I put the rod back in the position I adjusted first and everything was “ok” Again, also I would like to address that when I’m in traffic in first gear or second and I completely release the clutch without touching the gas my car still moves, like if I was gassing it a little bit or releasing just a little the clutch, what you guys think is my problem ? CMC or slave? I checked and any of them are leaking... clutch ? Throw out bearing ? I would really appreciate any help, thanks
I've installed a new CMC, I've bleed the system and saw that no air bubbles were in. Now its time for me to adjust the clutch pedal. I try to do it, however the push rod is not twisting... I have a lot of freeplay that i dont want, any suggestions for a dc5
Massi Wakeely push the pedal down slightly with one hand and twist the rod with the other hand, it should make it easier to turn. Just make sure to measure the freeplay after
@@JasonMcMullen I appreciate the reply, yeah I am going to give that a try. By chance does it matter if the clutch pedal pin (the thing that holds the CMC to the clutch pedal) is on while adjusting?
@@JasonMcMullen Hey just an update I got it to work all thanks to you! But just curious my engagement point is pretty high is that normal? I have about 16mm of free play. A lot higher than I had it before
Hey Jason. I’m experiencing notchy shifting in 2nd and 3rd at low rpm’s driving normally rowing threw the gears. I have hybridracing shifter bushing on the trans cables. I’ve changed my fluid to oem. I don’t have this issue at high rpm’s shifts only regular driving. I tried your adjustment but I’m curious as to the free play part. Do you measure the pedal play or until you feel resistance on the pedal? If you know what I mean there is pedal play to where the clutch fluid is felt resistance or the pedal itself has a small amount of play before the resistance from the fluid is felt.
Until you feel pressure. You could try to readjust and make the pedal travel a little longer (less threads showing) and see if that helps with the notchy shifting, just readjust the freeplay after doing the threads
Can I use this guide for my 2005 acura tsx? I just installed the ktuned cmc and csc and I have a stage 2 clutch not sure which brand was used it was done by the previous owner
Anyone know if this applies to a 2014 civic si? Running an em1 cmc with the oem rod swapped over. Trans shifted perfect in the 2013 it came from. Put it in my 2014 with new hybrid racing cmc and slave and can’t get it to not grind and lock me out of 2nd now.. also installed clutch masters clutch and flywheel
if you are having lock out problems you could try to make the throw longer (go to less threads showing and redo the freeplay) Just make a not of where it is now so you can go back if need be
@@Jaydee6.2 not sure for that car but you could try just go a half thread less than you currently have. But if you are worried about that I recommend changing your trans fluid first to see if it smooths things out
@@JasonMcMullen brand new Honda mtf, acuity shifter and cable bushings. Only thing it could really be is cables or synchros I guess besides adjustment. But did shift fine in a stock untuned car.
@@Jaydee6.2 Yeah it could very well be the adjustment. A lot of people (myself included) thought that their synchro's were damaged but it ended up being the adjustment. But You can also have a trusted mechanic do it for you too as long as you let them know what you want
Jason help, I’m trying to adjust an oem em1 cmc on my rsx and the rod completely unthreaded from the end that connects to the pedal. Do I need to remove the pin to reinstall it?
Yeah just pop that pin out, spin the connector back onto the rod and start over. If you have the pedal height where it should be, the rod should be long enough without coming off. Make sure the clutch system is bled properly also. Thanks!
Jason McMullen thanks man. Really quick, how many threads should be sticking out on the clutch height adjuster for an em2 oem cmc with aftermarket clutch and flywheel ? Is it 5?
@@bhadz100 Is the CMC an actual oem em1 CMC? You might have to swap the rod with the stock K20 CMC as Hybrid racing has you do for their Em1 CMC (instructions on their website). Usually an em1 style CMC (K-tuned, Hard Motion, ect) is around 5 threads showing. It sometimes takes a little more threads or a little less because every clutch is different. Carefully test out the clutch operation on a short drive before driving hard or anything like that.
Jason McMullen it’s an actual oem one. I’m struggling to thread back the other end. Do I need to relieve the clutch system of hydraulic pressure to be able to push the shaft all the way and thread the other end back?
bhadz100 you can also loosen (but don’t remove) the nuts that hold the cmc in place and slide it back a little to give yourself more space to get the thing threaded again. Just tighten it all back down after. Sorry you’re having trouble bro, I know how frustrating it can be sometimes. Shouldn’t have to relieve pressure
hmm not sure about the clicking. It might need some urea grease on the end of the slave cylinder rod, or on the spring that is on the upper part of the clutch pedal. There are a few friction points on the upper part of the clutch pedal/CMC that might need grease. Let me know
Question: I have 2010 fg2 115k-kms and i adjusted it exactly how you described with number of threads and spacing, is this okay to do without putting in a brand new clutch? It has stock clutch and hasn’t been changed in a long time. So I’m wondering if I shouldn’t have done it? Thanks
After loosening the nut on the master cylinder, My rod on the master cylinder isn't spinning. At all. It's almost like it's locked in place. Any ideas?
This is by far the best camera work and explaination I’ve seen for cmc adjustment! I can actually see and understand what’s going on.
Very much appreciated, thank you!
Exactly what he said!
Facts
Love you so much for this, My si was hard to shift after a new clutch install and followed this to realize a Honda dealership don't even know how to adjust a clutch on their own cars. Something so easy.
Hey thanks brother! Same thing happened to me, I got my clutch replaced at Honda and then it wasn't shifting smooth. Glad it helped you out, have fun bro!
Go queef those tires now, I want to see a video on that 🤣
@@crankZOD I'll get a nice close up for you
This video was so clear and so helpful. No other video on youtube is close to as useful as this one. Thank you so much bro.
Glad to help!! thank you
I really appreciate your tutorial, this is by far one of the BEST, most informative and clear steady camera video for an 8th gen clutch adjustment. Thank you!
thanks buddy I'm glad to hear! 🙏
how many threads did you go out? mine was at like 4.5 stock clutch i lowered it to 2.5 threads showing and it shifts way better and catches earlier but still has some grinds
Thank you! I just replaced my clutch and I was freaking out thinking I installed the fork or throw out bearing wrong. Followed your instructions and it works perfect! Your camera work in the video is fantastic too.
great to hear bro!
Amazing tutorial! Clear, concise, calm fluent commentary, very helpful visuals, superb info re thread adjustment for different clutch / cmc. Excellent, really helpful; thank you!
Such an amazingly positive comment, I truly appreciate it. These kind of comments I literally show my GF because it means a lot. Glad to help buddy!
I have a stock CMC and Slave with stage 1 exedy clutch and Fidanza flywheel. I Have been driving for a few thousands miles now and lately it has been getting a little hard going into gears. Thought I’d try this since I was told you need to adjust clutch pedal after a new clutch replacement. Did exactly what you said in the video and man, it feels like I got a new clutch. It feels even better when I got the car back with 0 miles on the new clutch. I owe you big time!
this is one of the best videos i’ve seen on adjustment! keep it up watching a year later !
Wow bro I can't tell you how much I appreciate that. Thank you so much!!
Years later still helping people I really appreciate it. My only issue is I'm trying to figure out how to get my engagement lower. I love my pedal feel now but it's grabbing at the top. I tried adding more threads on the stopper and then readjusting the clutch rod but it seems to still be grabbing high. trying to understand the whole dynamics of this but I can't figure out what would give me a lower engagement point.
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply. Basically the freeplay will affect where the clutch grabs a little bit. But if you want it to grab 'a lot' sooner you have to make the pedal stroke shorter. So if you go to a little more threads showing and then redo the freeplay then the pedal will grab sooner because less fluid is pushed into the clutch line, so on the pedal release it wont grab quite as high up. However it might also make the clutch release a little less smooth. If its a comfort thing then just go little by little. Going to a K-tuned EM1 CMC will give you a shorter overall pedal travel but in my opinion makes it more difficult to drive in traffic because it engages right after you let the pedal up from the floor, and its more sensitive in general. But that's preference because I know some people are use to that
@@JasonMcMullen thanks for the reply I'll keep doing some tinkering and find the sweet spot
@@JasonMcMullenhey so I have a stage 2 competition clutch and I’m switching to a Ktuned CMC. Would I need .5-1 threads showing on the sensor?
@datboidell7722 I want to know too, I'm having a similar set up.
I refer so many people to your video. I know our cars CMC gets bad attention but I'm convinced a lot of people just have their clutch adjusted incorrectly and it accounts for a lot of their chunky gear changes.
wow thanks bro! I appreciate that! 🙏And yeah I agree, even I thought that until I adjusted mine
Bro!!! Can not thank you enough, owned my SI for 4 years and its running better than ever! Peace
Awesome bro! Super glad to hear that!!
Thank you SO MUCH. I was having serious high-RPM shift lockout issues in my 8th gen FA5, and this solved everything. Car shifts like new and the catch point is way higher, more like an EP3.
katchF22 that’s really awesome to hear bro!! Have fun hitting VTEC! 🔥
came here to comment the same thing. I got my FA5 6 months ago and finally adjusted the clutch pedal. 7k+ RPM I was locked out of 2nd and 3rd. Now I have no problems. Super high engagement point! Huge gains from a 20 minute adjustment.
@@Visw Super good to hear man!! And thanks for commenting, it helps other people see the video and hopefully it will help them too
Really appreciate you making this video. My clutch was slipping so bad after I installed the Si CMC on my 08 Si. Now it feels like oem!
Hey that's awesome man!! glad to help
Just did this on my daughters civic, your instructions were so clear, it went perfectly. Hardest part was squeezing my oversized melon under the dash so I could see everything…excellent video, thanks!
Adjusted on my FG2. Feels just like my FG1. It really changed the clutch feel for the better
good to hear bro! 👏
Stock clutch? I just got a fg2 to I wanna get the shifting better kinda get notchy feel but I know it’s not synchros
Stock clutch will be very close to the stage 1 adjustment in the video, (about the same amount of threads showing) @@mrslapside
@@JasonMcMullen thanks! These k series are tricky at shifting hehe im new and use to the old 92 civic with b series 😂
thanks for the help brotha, after swapping out my cmc i tried adjusting the clutch and failed miserably, was hard to pop into gear and rear was locking me into gear. After using this information, im getting into gear clean with no problem. crazy how this little adjustment is really important.
"A blessing from the Lord"
🙏🙏
I'm a little late to the game but I got an fg2 a couple months back and this helped a shit ton. Much appreciated thanks for uploading this
Hey thanks so much for coming back and commenting, I really appreciate it. And glad that it helped you buddy!
Best clutch adjustment video I could find for my car thank you man 💯
Great to hear bro!
Excellent video. Super informational, no gimmicks, no extra bs, just straight knowledge. Respect
I'm about to try this soon on my 06 si b/c it engages super low. I'd like it halfway or alil lower than halfway. 1 thread for stock cmc right. And the rod turning is micro adjustments to go "a little" less than halfway. Hope i'm understanding it lol
🙏🙏🙏 thanks bro! It should make your pedal higher for sure, and should make shifting smoother. The height adjustment (threads) will change the engagement point dramatically. The rod (freeplay) changes it a little. You get it. But if you go to 1 thread it will be a little higher than halfway most likely. So maybe go to a little more threads showing if it really bothers you. Also make sure to always redo the freeplay after adjusting the threads. Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks dude, really appreciate it. Ok will do
freaking A man! I'm subbed, not even sure this will fix my problem but it sure was clear and concise.
Hey thanks buddy!! 🙌
This man was sent from heaven! I found so much contradicting information on different forums and this man knows what's up! So much better! You beautiful, beautiful human!
Lol this is by far the best comment I've ever seen. Thanks so much you splendid individual!! Happy to help in any way I can
And he's still actively in the comments, what did we do to deserve this! I was getting so frustrated haha. Someone needs to go hit the 8th civic forum and post this video on EVERY "CMC adjustment" thread!
@@ImPaCTSnYpEr I went through a lot of frustration before too so totally know what you mean! And thanks again!! You're too nice, its very much appreciated. And thanks for the Sub! (subbed back)
This is the best video for clutch adjustment. Thank you
Just installed my cmc , I’m going to try this when I get home. People don’t forget he posted a proper bleeding method as well. Do both and you such be good to go! I cannot wait to go try this because my car is stuccccck 🤦♂️
Hey thanks bro!! I hope the adjustment helps 🙏🤙
what if i have an em2 cmc? do i adjust it as the em1 or the stock cmc?
You made a great video here. Im having what I believe is disengagement issues. Every gear is shifting like i have no clutch and its lurching a tiny bit every time i get it in first gear. Im giving this a shot right now.
James Jetson I hope it helps!!
Clutch stopper was set at about 7 threads showing and the cmc was set all the way counterclockwise. Did the adjustments and it now shifts great. Owned it for 12 years now and never adjusted it till now. I assume thats how it comes from the factory. Vid was a big help, thanks.
@@jamesjetson3812 Great to hear!!
still one of the best videos i’ve seen out there 💯💯🔥🔥
Just installed my em1 cmc and my ktuned slave, and your video helped dial everything up. I cant thank you enough! 🤙🤙
Excellent to hear buddy! Thank you for the super nice comment!
@@JasonMcMullen Okay so I've been driving it for a bit, and I can feel the clutch pedal vibrate now. Everything I've adjusted is to spec, I used all the right pieces. I didnt have any issues with the clutch pedal vibrating before I replaced the cmc and the slave. Is this due to my new setup do you think? Or could it be something totally different?
The Beldam hmm does it vibrate when using it or just anytime?
@@JasonMcMullen When I take up the freeplay and actually shift into another gear. Low rpms there's hardly any, but vibration is extremely high when im in Vtec. Im thinking its just more feedback from the trans due to the braided line?
The Beldam do you feel a lot of pressure on the pedal too, near the bottom of the stroke? If so you might have to make the pedal height lower (more thread showing) and then redo the freeplay. Because the em1 style cmc doesn’t need as much space to release. But the freeplay also affects it, so first try a couple more mm of freeplay. Most likely just adding a few mm of freeplay won’t be enough and you will have to make the pedal shorter then redo the freeplay to about 10mm. By doing so the stroke will get shorter and hopefully get rid of the pressure. If you don’t feel pressure but just weird vibration let me know. It could be that the slave cylinder rod needs urea grease or that something is wrong with the cmc/slave itself (a leak).
After watching this video
You got my car back on the road
Youve earned a new subscriber
ayyyy awesome to hear bro! And thank you, I'm trying to work on some new vids
Just did this adjustment and worked like a charm.
My pushrod on my cmc is hard to spin by hand any one knows why?
Turned too far to the right
great explanation and footage. Thanks for this
Thanks!
This video helped. Only problem with mine is I can't freely move the rod into cmc. Nut is stuck on it. Had to vise grip the rod then wrench the nut tight.
oh, this is on a 08 TSX
9:20 your explanation is great but it was hard to see which way you were turning the push rod. Was clockwise movement turning the rod left (toward centre console) and anticlockwise turning rod toward the right (or toward the brake pedal)? It was hard to tell at the final demo with the unit on the table. Thx
Also will this help my low bite point where I can't help but sometimes drag the clutch where there is a often a horrific squeal where it seems I'm riding the clutch
The direction is correct and yes it will rise the bite point! Thanks for the nice comment buddy!
@@JasonMcMullen Ah thx Jason, just didn't want to mess up the direction of the push rod (being dyslexic and that).
Using my thumb on the bottom of the rod and moving my thumb to the left ((a)clockwise?) and then right ((b)anticlockwise?) (if you get my meaning);if this is correct, which direction (a or b) extends the rod toward the foot pedal stop ( correct?) And then which direction (a or b) is the half turn?
Finally another vid says pedal adjustment on stock clutch is up to 2 threads long and yours just half a thread. What is best?
Really appreciate this. Hope to fall in love with my 8th gen euro accord again if I can just get this darn clutch right from being too low😫
@@bronniesboy Yeah clockwise till you feel a tiny bit of resistance, then half a turn counterclockwise (can go full turn also). Basically this just resets the freeplay after the height adjustment (the thread count showing)
If you go to less threads showing, then the bite point will be higher. So if you go to 2 threads (stock) it will bite shortly after the pedal leaves the floor. But half thread will rise the bite point to about half way up
@JasonMcMullen I have the ktuned em2 style cmc with an action clutch stage 5. Am I still looking at doing 5 threads showing? Also, great video. Seems to be helping out a lot of people. Keep it up.
For a stage five you might need a little more throw, maybe try 4-5 and see how it is. Feel free to go to less (or more) depending on how it operates. Just make sure to redo the freeplay adjustment after the thread adjustment. Also if you already have it adjusted, take a picture of where it's at now so you can have a baseline to go back to if anything
Didn't even realize this could be an issue. I do have occasional grinding, the classic 3rd gear grind on these. Saw that the clutch pedal isn't set up properly, so gonna give this a shot. Think mine had 2-3 threads showing. In a FA1 which I believe uses a different CMC but everything is setup pretty much the same.
Followup. I bought my FA1 used so idk if the previous owner adjusted it but having 1-1.5 thread showing and half turn from resistance point on CMC leaves you with veryyyy little freeplay . It's pretty nice since it feels really responsive and if you allow more freeplay it's pretty easy to have the push rod and cmc touching.
I'm gonna roll with it. It feels a lot more natural to me now
Hey did it fix ur grinding
did it fix the 3rd gear grind?
great video . I had problems banging gears after having Honda put In a new clutch and pressure plate. It shifts way smoother and I can bang gears without waiting for the revs to drop.I found out they had over 5 threads showing on the clutch pedal SMH!!! Thanks I appreciate the Help a lot.
Man it was the exact same for me, after I got my car back from Honda (clutch/flywheel) it didn't shift very smooth, which led me to make this video. So glad you are banging through gears again bro! Have fun
Recently install Hybrid Racing kit for my 2007 Honda Civic Si and reuse the OEM rod and bracket to my EM1 CMC. I follow the instructions and the next day my clutch pedal starts to make clucking/ squeaking nosies. I try to grease CMC but it didn't work. I even double check my work but the same noise happens even after being adjusted multiple time. It keeps on respawning back in the morning. Noise would die down for now.
squeaking can also be from not greasing the Slave Cylinder rod where it touches and moves the clutch fork. Urea grease is the best
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your help ! Really,the best video i've found and it helped me a lot! I did this on my european Civic Tourer 2015,although they are different, the system is the same.There's not that much space down there,like you have.I couldn't reach 12mm nut on CMC,so i bent one of my 12-13mm wrenches to catch the nut properly.And no matter how much I turn the rod on CMC, I got no freeplay.But I left it as you described and it works perfect.Keep up the good work,bro!!!
awesome to hear that its working well! glad to help!
Clutch is fully adjusted but bite point is 1 inch off the ground, no grinds.. help??
Oooooo MYYYYY GOD!!! This was sooo helpful. I have a small question i replaced my OEM clutch with a Exedy stage 1 clutch + EFT fly wheel and im going to install a aftermarket CMC EM1 should i follow that same recommendation you mentioned in this video of leaving 5 threads on the under side? Please if anyone knows would be greatly appreciated thank you
is it the hybrid racing EM1 CMC or the K-tuned one?
Also thank you!!
@@JasonMcMullen its an Exedy cmc and smc thank you so much for replying
@@saitekina_og9271 Yeah should be around 5 threads. If you have trouble shifting then go to less threads and redo the freeplay
@@JasonMcMullen thank you so much! Will be trying this on the weekend once i get my new CMC
hey dude , I read you're coment on Briana's video and thank you for youre suport and she can not waith for the game neather ;)
Thanks bud, yeah its gonna be awesome!
So, what I am taking away from this Is that the free play is the most important part, and that you can raise/lower the pedal engagement point with the stopper - as long as free play is adjusted to in spec all is well?
yeah but also the engagement point changes the amount that the clutch releases, so people who have issues with grinding and non-smooth shifting can change the engagement point in order to fix that issue
OMG... Only if you made this video 10 yrs ago......
I just replaced my clutch to a stage 1 action clutch and have the hybrid racing cmc. The instructions for the cmc said to replace the rod with the stock rod. So do I have half to one thread showing? Or 5 threads showing? TIA!
I believe if you replace the rod then your adjustment should be similar to a stock cmc (1 thread showing)
@@JasonMcMullen sounds good! I’ll give it a shot and let you know. Thanks for replying!
So with a stage 3 action clutch and cmc em1 upgraded slave cylinder I want 5 threads showing?
I noticed in the description you now advise 2 threads for EM1 cmc. I see you credited someone for this info, but how did this come about when it's been the 5 threads for so long? I can't find any other information about this.
Hybrid Racing one is 2 threads because you swap the rod (so its close to stock adjustment), the k tuned em1 style and the aftermarket Em1 are still 5 threads
Great video very Detailed
thank you sir!!
Bro my clutch is releasing too high… so I turn it clockwise ?
Great vid! I'm having issues with my 08 si clutch. Shifts perfectly when cold but a lot harder to shift when it warms up after about 30 minutes driving. Going to give this a shot! Any suggestions if this doesn't work?
Slightly Stoopid thanks buddy, I would say check the clutch lines for any leaks first, then adjust the clutch after. If that doesn’t help, perhaps bleeding the hydraulic system for air will also help
Any update for this im having the same problem
How do you know if you need to replace vs adjust the stock cmc?
07 fg2 currenty having crunchy shifting and can’t shift at high rpm. Have gotten stuck in reverse(have to stall or turn the car off to get out) and not able to shift into first after a stop until I pump the clutch pedal a couple times. I feel like the clutch isn’t fully disengaging at times. Sorry for the paragraph lol
did u find a solution? having the same issue as well.
@@yojerico6057 sadly no, I did the cmc adjustment and it helped smooth out the shifting but still not the fix. I probably have to get the clutch replaced. The only reason I haven’t done it already is because the problems are intermittent so it’s throwing me a curve ball. Don’t want to spend $1000 only to find it’s not the problem
@@5.7tundra it worked for me, it takes a couple adjustments to get it perfect. Just be sure to find out what the actual problem is rather than wasting time and money
Good explanation! What would happen if i do not tighten the nud on the rod again and drive?
I have a ktuned cmc and slave kit on my 05 type s. I've bled the clutch fluid 3x for good measure and confirmed there is no bubbles anywhere. My question is, is it normal to have more than 10-15mm of freeplay after adjusting with 6 threads showing? Since its hard to turn the cmc rod with my fingers i had to use pliers, do I just adjust it till the cruise control switch is fully pressed and flushed? Btw I do have unknown stage 1 clutch and flywheel if that helps. Thankyou!
I have the hybrid cmc and used my stock rod 02 rsx type s. I’m having troubles finding the perfect spot. I had it adjusted to a decent spot but i tried to adjust it again and now I can’t get it back to that decent spot I had
As i believe the hybrid racing clutch master cyliner is a em1 right? In the directions it says change the pushrods from stock cmc so then i wouldnt need as much thread showimg on the button, correct?
if you change the rod then the adjustment should be similar to stock I believe
@JasonMcMullen sweet man thanks
I've owned my 09 civic si since brand new. This was going to be my weekend project, but when i got down there, the cylinder threads were already positioned in your final position!!! 🤔🤔
Oh wow thats interesting. Are you having any issues shifting? Or all good?
@@JasonMcMullen I recently had a high rpm grind from 1st to 2nd gear which lead me to google the fix!!
Thanks to you and your vid. I ended up making a small adjustment to the cylinder where and exposed one more line of thread.
Driving today felt great. Small difference but my heel-toes are much smoother 🙂
Have not yet tried high rpm 1st to 2nd yet. lol
@@aznippy Awesome to hear buddy!! LMK if you have any issues
I'm having issue with adjusting the CMC rod,I can't turn it either way, I also have 5 threads showing(k tuned CMC and slave) bleed the whole system 4 times to make sure there was no air and yeah there's a lot of play in the clutch pedal and the fork barely moves,I tried to do it by pressing the pedal a bit and turning it but it didn't work😕.
do you have a ruler to measure the freeplay? Most likely there is too much. If you thread the nut down then you might be able to turn it with that but the nut might get stuck too. You could also try to go to less threads showing and it might add enough throw to make the fork move. Its really tough to do when the threads on the rod are damaged but it is possible using measurements. Worst case, you can put a little lube in the area, then spray it with a little brake parts cleaner once it is in the right place
@@JasonMcMullen I got it working, guess what was the problem? The pedal was broken from left side and had to weld it 😂FML I spend 4 days and a new CMC and slave on it.
@@abdurkhan6075 damn bro that’s crazy! Glad you worked out a solution 💪
Best tutorial on adjusting clutch pedal by far, thanks 🙏, too bad I didn’t watch it before I almost ruin my clutch by not adjusting properly.
Thanks so much bro! and I hope your clutch is all good buddy! I almost did the same before I found out the right way
I'm little confused first time doing this I have stage 2 master clutch and hybrid racing cmc some how much thred has to be showing on clutch pedal
the hybrid racing one depends if you replace the rod or not, they have instructions on their website. LMK based on that
Needa do this asap for mine
thank you, will try to use this method for my 2010 mazda 6 6-speed, i believe it is the same (except for the clutch stop recommendations on the clutch stop number of threads, which might be different slightly).
Is it suppose to be em2 or em1 clutch master? Im trying to understand what you are saying but I’m not following. I bought a em2 master for my rsx but it has over almost 2 inches of freeplay. Need advice.
Most people use an em1 but some people use an em2. My video is for em1 but the em2 is similar. Basically if you are having trouble shifting then you need to make the pedal longer, and you can do that by going to less threads showing on the adjustment screw. For freeplay, the rod will let you adjust the freeplay after adjusting the height. If you spin it clockwise and then lock it down (with the nut) then it will give you less freeplay. You want about 10mm of freeplay.
i know im late i just got my clutch replaced and my clutch pedal feel wayyyyyy more softer now since i been riding on my first clutch for 130k miles and now its finally changed, but my question is even if i use OEM parts for my clutch will i have to adjust my pedal, and if so how much?
My mechanic did this for me because it was really hard to shift, I’ve noticed though my clutch pedal is getting closer to the floor and it’s coming out of adjustment, before I saw that the nut by the yellow clutch switch the clutch was pushing on the switch/stopper, BUT now it’s very far from the clutch pedal and I can’t engage my cruise control anymore because the switch isn’t being pushed and the car thinks the clutch is pushed in 24/7. Should I readjust and use blue loctite or something? Because it was fine for about a week and now it’s coming out of adjustment again. Not sure if the CMC is just letting the rod sink into itself, I’m not having any leaks, so I’m gonna try and do this today see if I can get it good again. Once he did it to me my car felt like a whole new car, I stalled a few times getting used to the clutch engagement points being different on the pedal haha. Now it’s back to about how it was before I can only assume it’s coming out of adjustment, I want to loctite ? But maybe I should just adjust it like this first and see if I can get it really tight first, and wait to see if it works its way back out of adjustment. It was so bad before I was nearly locked out of 1st and reverse. So hard to shift because I really wasn’t using my entire clutch pedal because of how bad it was.
Nova hmm yeah try to adjust it, tighten everything down, take a picture of the cruise control switch/stopper so you can keep track of the position of it. Measure the freeplay with a ruler so you can check it again later. In my experience there is no need for loctite, but maybe there is some oil or fluid on the threads? Can try wiping it with some brake parts cleaner
@@JasonMcMullen I tried adjusting the nut out so I can spin the rod and the nut is now stuck all the way back on the rod. Also the rod was incredibly hard to twist, I actually twisted the rod using the nut and I’m not able to get pliers in there to hold the rod while breaking the nut free it’s stuck on the threads, didn’t use loctite :( adjustment is ok now but idk for how long with the nut all the way back
@@JasonMcMullen I just had a few beers went out and hit it again and got it first try cracked the nut loose with pliers and tightened down thanks so much for the video Comrade!
@@Novaah803 lol nice! Good to hear bro! Also if you push the pedal down very slightly it will make the rod easy to spin
Quick question, just replaced my master cylinder for an LUK one on my FA5. The bite point was super high so I adjusted the master by turning it counter-clockwise till I felt resistance. You say to go back clockwise half a turn or so; however, when I do, the master cylinder rod becomes very loose to the touch. Is this normal? Thanks!
How many threads should I adjust it to if i have an em1 cmc & competition clutch (oem equivalent)?
4-5 usually (RSX Type-S and Civic Si)
@@JasonMcMullen Thank you for the fast reply.Imma go try it out
When I did the em1 clutch master on my rsx I had to use the original pushrod from the old clutch master I could no get the master to bolt up it kept hitting the pedal even with it adjusted all the way back
With the K-tuned one you dont have to do that, but yes with other em1 units you may have to do that, there is a tutorial on the hybrid racing website for that
Hey Jason,
I have a 2002 RSX. Just got the transmission rebuild and got a 1.5 stage Competition Clutch installed. My mechanic told me he didn't feel like he needed to adjust the clutch pedal. The clutch grabs pretty low compared to before.
Sometimes when I'm at a stop light, I can't shift into 1st and some gears are hard to shift into. At one point I couldn't shift into 1st at all, it was like I wasn't pressing in the clutch.
I will look into adjusting the clutch pedal following your video instructions. Since the clutch is grabbing pretty low, that means I want to adjust the rod for more freeplay, yes?
I appreciate your input!
The freeplay only affects it a little bit, most likely you are gonna want to go to less threads showing, which lengthens the pedal travel. Always redo the freeplay after adjusting the pedal travel because it throws it off when you do. From what you said, an adjustment will certainly help, the pedal will grab higher and the shifting should be smoother after
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the reply Jason! So I adjusted the screw, it was way off. It had like 10 threads over. Once I adjusted it to 1.5 threads, the shifting is much smoother.
But now I have a new problem. When I'm in neutral in idle, I now hear a slight chatter noise. Once I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. Any ideas? This noise was not there when before adjusting the pedal.
Thanks!
@@Shorty15c4007 maybe try to go to 2 or 3 threads showing, but first can you check the freeplay with a ruler? you want to have at least 10mm
@@Shorty15c4007 do you have a Type-S or regular? because the 1 thread is for the Type-S
@@JasonMcMullen I have a 5 speed base with a Type-S clutch and flywheel.
I will go 2-3 threads and see if I can achieve a sweet spot. And I'll double check the free play distance
If I release my clutch pedal too quickly, I hear rattling while in neutral. Any suggestions why. Stage 1 action clutch stock cmc
Old video so no clue if I will get an answer. Have a Hybrid Racing cmc which is a em1 style with a swapped stock rod. Currently have 5 threads showing and my clutch engagement/disengagement is very top of pedal and clutch after almost 6 months is starting to slip. But I think it that it might not be fully engaging. Wondering if adjusting it to 2 threads showing if it will change where the clutch is engaging/disengaging.
yeah if you replaced the rod, the adjustment should be around 1-2 threads showing. Try it out and lmk
@Jason McMullen yea we did a transmission rebuild with hybrid racing slave/master cylinder, cables, shifters detent springs etc. Friend doing it has been a Honda Tech for 15 years and is very picky about his cars. So I am pretty sure if my stage 4 clutch was in need of replacing he would of told me. So going to try this before replacing clutch.
@@johnkrstyen Yeah give it a try, there is a user guide available for the Hybrid Racing CMC on their website btw
Thank you for this video . Just drove my car for 1.5 years with the clutch 5 turns out of spec . Feels like a band new car again
I have a ktuned cmc and stock slave with exedy OEM clutch, how much threads would I be at? 5?
Thanks for sharing. In my Honda manual it also states to adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch along with the other two adjustments shown in this video, did you also adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch or it's not necessarily necessary unless the car gives you an issue with start-up? Thank you
Hey buddy, most people dont have to but if you have any problems starting the car then adjust it according to the manual, I believe it says to adjust it so that the car still starts even with your foot about 10mm off the floor
@@JasonMcMullen Thank you for the insight. I have another question, if I turn the pushrod going into the CMC all the way clockwise till resistance is felt then turn back counter clockwise one full turn and lock it down, with the clutch switch adjusted so that the bottom of the threads just touches the clutch pedal released plus an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn, I still have more free-play than I would like.
From my understanding the above process is to adjust the clutch pedal height from the ground (6.5"), will re-adjusting the CMC rod possibly a half-turn clockwise without touching the clutch switch remove some free-play without affecting the pedal height since it has already been established?
It's tricky to know how far clockwise you can go with the CMC pushrod because when you feel slight resistance with the clutch pedal released, if you turn slightly more it get's very loose almost as if the rod is being removed from the CMC. If I adjust the CMC rod with the clutch pedal slightly pushed in, then its even more tricky to know how far you can turn clockwise before it gets very loose again because the resistance is so slight. The clutch has been bleed and it's an OEM replacement Exedy clutch kit and stock CMC. Thank you.
@@vanquishstorm3806 Hey buddy, the best way to deal with freeplay is with a mm ruler, that way you can make sure you have enough, it can be very tricky to know like you said, especially if the cmc is not turning smoothly. Most likely you can just remove a little freeplay but its best to measure after to make sure you have at least 9-10mm (to ensure the throw-out bearing is not being engaged with the pedal up). Using a brand new cmc it spins easy so its not really a problem. Using a new one I can count the amount of turns it takes to go all the way in and the amount it takes to go all the way out (you dont want it to be either all the way in or all the way out)
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the insight. Being that I'm adjusting the pushrod in the original old CMC in my car, it doesn't turn as smoothly which can make it tricky to gauge if you are too far out in adjustment. I'm going to measure all of my adjustments with a ruler to verify that I am within specification. Thanks again.
@@JasonMcMullenMy apology for all the questions, as far as engaging/disengaging the clutch, if you dont have enough freeplay than the clutch pedal when released may always remain slightly engaged (friction disc applied on flywheel/ release bearing possibly touching pressure plate)? Disengaging the clutch would therefore be the opposite (clutch pedal pressed to the floor/friction disc not applied to flywheel)?
I recently installed a new clutch and the car drove fine for about a month and now I cant get it into gear with the car running. I can get in all my gears with the car turned off aswell the CMC is not leaking. With this issue, the pedal had very little pressure engaging closer towards the ground. I bled the clutch yesterday and regained pedal pressure but I'm assuming I will also need to dial in the freeplay since the friction disc is now most likely broken in.
The issue that I am having with the pedal engagement low to the ground and the car not going into gear with the car running, is that an issue engaging or disengaging the clutch? Also, could this have caused any harm to the clutch/trans not being able to go in gear? When I drove the car everything was functioning properly. Thank you for your time.
Outstanding video!
I just got the hard motion EM1 with slave. I have an Exedy stage one clutch. Hard Moton recommends swapping the piston rod with stock. So am I looking at 5ish threads based on the CMC/clutch or 2ish threads based on the push rod swap? Thank you in advance
P.S. I love the upper strut bar
Thank you so much! Try 2 threads but if you feel pressure at the bottom of the pedal when shifting at high RPM then shorten the pedal and maybe go to 5. Because you swap the rod, I think it will be closer to stock but I'm not sure so it might take some trial. Let me know what you end up at and I'll put it in the description
Jason, just installed and went with exactly two threads. Based on pedal feel it engages at about 2 inches off the floor. Feels perfect with no pressure that I can tell.
I just adjust the paddle adjustment it got rid of my 2 gear lockout but my 4 gear high rpm grinds now, didn't do it before. What u think happen.
You can try to adjust the pedal a little further out (a little less thread showing on the bottom of the adjustment screw). As long as clutch has enough room to release it should operate properly in 4th also. Some people with k-series transmissions have worn sychros from so many years of shifting with the clutch not releasing fully, but you probably just need to adjust a tad more. As long as the clutch releases the rest is up to the transmission. My 3rd gear is a little notchy but with my clutch adjusted it doesn't grind. Let me know and I'll help anyway I can bro
So my release bearing was already toasted, but I watched a video (prior to this) that was not as clear and adjusted the rod until it was super stiff, and rolled it over a few more times after that. I’m not 100% sure if I aided in the throwout bearing doing what it does now (squealing for it’s life whenever the clutch is not engaged, even when the car is moving in gear) but I’d better fix my adjustments.
Long story short: The idea is for the rod to just be sort of snug and not fully secured, correct?
Hey buddy, yeah you want the rod to have a little bit of freeplay, so once you thread it in until you feel resistance, then thread it out (counterclockwise) minimum a half turn, maybe more. When you check the the pedal freeplay with a ruler, the pedal has to have 10mm or more of freeplay (dead pedal). If you spin the rod counterclockwise more then it will give you even more freeplay. If the pedal has less than 10mm of dead pedal then its possible that the release bearing will still be hitting the clutch even with the pedal out, and it will damage the bearing and the clutch. I hope the adjustment helps, I know how it is because when I bought my car it already had a noisy/damaged release bearing so I eventually replaced the clutch/flywheel/bearing and it cost me some money, but hopefully you will be ok. And yeah the other videos that don't cover setting the proper amount of freeplay are kinda dangerous honestly, which is another reason why I made this video. Hope it helps bro
I have a RockAuto replacement CMC but a clutch master fx400... How many threads should be showing? I may have misunderstood
just got an fa5 clutch is really hard car action clutch not sure what stage it is wondering if adjusting it will help specially with engage i feel like it engages really hard
yeah it might help, do you mean its hard to push the pedal down? or that when you let the pedal back up its hard?
@@JasonMcMullen its hard to push the pedal down
Great video. Mine grinds in 3rd sometimes. I just looked at how many threads mine is showing on the back end and it’s prob 7-8 lol it’s all factory also. So I am going to adjust it to only about one thread showing. Thank you so much. This should help my clutch so much.
I hope it helps buddy!
Did it help?
Hey man, awesome video, but I was wondering when you say with the upgraded EM1 CMC does that include if you change the pushrod from the old stock CMC over to the new upgraded CMC?
I believe when you change the rod, it makes the adjustment similar to the stock adjustment
@@JasonMcMullen Thats what I was thinking, I appreciate the quick response!
I measured the distance between the pedal and the floor board with carpet and insulation and it's only 4" and the factory spec is 6.1". If I deduct the thickness of the carpet and insulation, I would guess it's at around 5" which is still 1" low. At the current position, the clutch pedal is slightly lower than the brake pedal. If I adjust it to the factory spec, it will be about 1" higher than the brake pedal. Is this how it should be? I found the clutch travel is abit short ever since I got the car compared to the 9th gen si. I don't want to overstroke the clutch after the adjustment.
I have a ktuned slave and cmc kit, question is how do I know when to stop turning the rod on the master? Turning the rod with fingers is impossible so I have to use a pliers to turn it
So you can also use a ruler to just check the freeplay instead of stopping and backing out. Also try to push down the pedal a little with one hand while turning the rod, it usually makes it easier. Then check the freeplay amount. The reason you do that is because after you change the height of the pedal, the rod has to be reset also (to the correct range). Lmk if you got any more questions buddy
@@JasonMcMullen one more question actually, before I get into my question I just want to say I have bled my clutch master 3 times and confirmed no air bubbles. My question is, after 30mins of driving my clutch pedals seems to get a little stiffer and also engagement point becomes a little higher. Before driving in the morning I would check my freeplay with my hand without any force and there would be atleast .5inch of freeplay, but after driving for a while the freeplay seems to be gone
@@Itspiyerrrr fluid does heat up a little so it could change a little. If you not experiencing shifting issues then you could give it a bit more freeplay just to be safe. Air in the system will make the pedal softer so you probably did the bleeding just fine. Pedal stiffness will increase after adjusting but you dont want it to feel extremely stiff at the bottom of the pedal travel (if you do feel it at the bottom of the stroke then the pedal height might be too high and you might have to readjust both again)
@@JasonMcMullen I just find it weird, but car is shifting a whole lot better after I adjusted it with your instruction. The ktuned cmc I believe is a em2 style so I have 2 threads showing on the bottom of the clutch switch, I adjusted it like how I would adjust a stock cmc. Unless I need to have 5-6 threads showing like the em1 style?
The k-tuned one is Em1 style, so it does not need as long of a travel. Maybe go a little shorter (more threads showing) and see if the pressure is not as extreme. You can go one thread at a time so maybe try 3-4 and see if you can find a balance between shifting smooth and normal pressure. Also keep in mind that when the car is cold the shifting will be less smooth because the trans fluid has not had time to circulate and warm up. @@Itspiyerrrr
Damn finally something that actually works!! Awesome shit dude m.
Glad it worked out well for you buddy! Have fun shifting
Thanks for the video it really helped but when I am adjusting free play on the cmc rod. I have to slightly push in the pedal or it won’t rotate the rod, if I have it anymore to the left then about 1.5 turns. But I am only at like 8 mm of few play at 1.5 turns back counterclockwise from all the way clock wise
Alex Christian can you rotate it more counter clockwise? If you can go another half turn or so counter clockwise it would be ideal, to try to get to 10mm. Usually it will rotate back out counterclockwise about 5 times before it hits the stopper (I know it’s hard to tell when you gotta push in the pedal). Let me know! Even having 8mm you probably won’t do any harm but it’s best to be safe and go by what Honda recommends
Jason McMullen I’ll try but I think the reason I have to push the pedal is because when the pedal is fully out the rod is contacting the cmc so I have found that point where it is just enough clockwise not to contact it but at that point it only has about 8mm of travel I think I will just have to see how that works
Jason McMullen well I took the car out to get groceries and it doesn’t seem to be having any problems I don’t smell or feel the clutch rubbing and I have just a hair of space in-between the rod and the cmc so It worked out I guess thank you for the tutorial dude. Every other one I’ve seen doesn’t even come close to how clear and detailed yours is
@@alexchristian5399 Good to hear bro!! Yeah its probably enough. And thanks man I really appreciate it!!
I’ve got the ktuned master and slave coming in the mail, is it definitely an em1 style? Just wondering if that company sells more than 1 style for the 8th gen. don’t want to mess up my brand new clutch and rebuilt trans! Thanks
yes sir, the k-tuned one is a modified EM1 CMC (it has an AN fitting) and its the one that I used. It should be around 5 threads showing. If you run it with 1 thread showing it will over-stroke the system. In my opinion, K-tuned should provide some instructions because I caused issues for me before I learned about adjusting it.
also the pedal will be shorter with the K-tuned so it will take a week or so to get use to it
Hey I have a stage 2 clutch w hybrid racing em1 cmc and csc upgrade kit, i cant get the pushrod to spin freely, the nut is all the way loose but the push rod wont move
You can try to push down the pedal a little bit with one hand while trying to spin the rod with the other hand. Just make sure to use a ruler to measure the freeplay after to make sure you are at the right amount
With the stock setting having so many threads showing from the back, engagement is short and tight. I just adjusted it, and it fixed my high rev lockout with 1 thread showing and the clutch release is much longer. Would showing something like 3-5 threads (or just something between stock and this adjustment) be okay as an in-between?
Hey whats up everyone im having some issues with my cmc and slave, I replaced my clutch,pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing with competition clutch 1.5 stage, 8 pound flywheel and also I installed the CMC and slave combo from Ktuned, this was about 10 moths ago, I drive every day this car about 40 miles per day sometimes with LA traffic and some spirit driving on weekends, around a moth ago my problems started, I was at a red light and right when I was taking off( releasing clutch) I feel the clutch “bitting as usual” but before I completely released it I felt the pedal clutch go kinda “soft” and the bite wasn’t as hard and the release point was higher, I had the clutch adjustment rod showing 5 treads since the day I installed everything and the cmc rod adjusted by my mechanic, I’ve been doing a lot of research on how to adjust the rod, I’ve watch videos and I clearly understand I have to spin it clockwise until you feel some kind of resistance, here’s my first problem, the ktuned cmc rod doesn’t spin just with your fingers, you have to use some pliers in order to spin it, so how I’m i supposed to feel the resistance everybody is talking about ?
Second problem: I went to my slave cylinder and I try to press it with my fingers and I just couldn’t is hard as a rock...tried again messing with the cmc rod, if I spin it clock wise my engagement feel higher and clutch pedal soft but if I spin it counterclockwise it will
Actually feel shorter and more firm, I know my slave cylinder is supposed to be able to move with my fingers so I went under the dash again today and I spin the rod counterclockwise more so I could try to fix my slave issue but when I tried to start up my car It just wouldn’t start, so I put the rod back in the position I adjusted first and everything was “ok” Again, also I would like to address that when I’m in traffic in first gear or second and I completely release the clutch without touching the gas my car still moves, like if I was gassing it a little bit or releasing just a little the clutch, what you guys think is my problem ? CMC or slave? I checked and any of them are leaking... clutch ? Throw out bearing ? I would really appreciate any help, thanks
I've installed a new CMC, I've bleed the system and saw that no air bubbles were in. Now its time for me to adjust the clutch pedal. I try to do it, however the push rod is not twisting... I have a lot of freeplay that i dont want, any suggestions for a dc5
Massi Wakeely push the pedal down slightly with one hand and twist the rod with the other hand, it should make it easier to turn. Just make sure to measure the freeplay after
@@JasonMcMullen I appreciate the reply, yeah I am going to give that a try. By chance does it matter if the clutch pedal pin (the thing that holds the CMC to the clutch pedal) is on while adjusting?
@@massiwakeely5591 no prob buddy, yeah keep the pin in. LMK if you have any more issues and I'll try to help
@@JasonMcMullen Okay perfect, I'll give it a try tomorrow and will let you know how it goes. Thank you once again 🙏
@@JasonMcMullen Hey just an update I got it to work all thanks to you! But just curious my engagement point is pretty high is that normal? I have about 16mm of free play. A lot higher than I had it before
Hey Jason. I’m experiencing notchy shifting in 2nd and 3rd at low rpm’s driving normally rowing threw the gears. I have hybridracing shifter bushing on the trans cables. I’ve changed my fluid to oem. I don’t have this issue at high rpm’s shifts only regular driving. I tried your adjustment but I’m curious as to the free play part. Do you measure the pedal play or until you feel resistance on the pedal? If you know what I mean there is pedal play to where the clutch fluid is felt resistance or the pedal itself has a small amount of play before the resistance from the fluid is felt.
Until you feel pressure. You could try to readjust and make the pedal travel a little longer (less threads showing) and see if that helps with the notchy shifting, just readjust the freeplay after doing the threads
Can I use this guide for my 2005 acura tsx? I just installed the ktuned cmc and csc and I have a stage 2 clutch not sure which brand was used it was done by the previous owner
Anyone know if this applies to a 2014 civic si? Running an em1 cmc with the oem rod swapped over. Trans shifted perfect in the 2013 it came from. Put it in my 2014 with new hybrid racing cmc and slave and can’t get it to not grind and lock me out of 2nd now.. also installed clutch masters clutch and flywheel
if you are having lock out problems you could try to make the throw longer (go to less threads showing and redo the freeplay) Just make a not of where it is now so you can go back if need be
@@JasonMcMullen any idea how little threads I can go while still playing it safe? Don’t wanna stress the crank!
@@Jaydee6.2 not sure for that car but you could try just go a half thread less than you currently have. But if you are worried about that I recommend changing your trans fluid first to see if it smooths things out
@@JasonMcMullen brand new Honda mtf, acuity shifter and cable bushings. Only thing it could really be is cables or synchros I guess besides adjustment. But did shift fine in a stock untuned car.
@@Jaydee6.2 Yeah it could very well be the adjustment. A lot of people (myself included) thought that their synchro's were damaged but it ended up being the adjustment. But You can also have a trusted mechanic do it for you too as long as you let them know what you want
Jason help, I’m trying to adjust an oem em1 cmc on my rsx and the rod completely unthreaded from the end that connects to the pedal. Do I need to remove the pin to reinstall it?
Yeah just pop that pin out, spin the connector back onto the rod and start over. If you have the pedal height where it should be, the rod should be long enough without coming off. Make sure the clutch system is bled properly also. Thanks!
Jason McMullen thanks man. Really quick, how many threads should be sticking out on the clutch height adjuster for an em2 oem cmc with aftermarket clutch and flywheel ? Is it 5?
@@bhadz100 Is the CMC an actual oem em1 CMC? You might have to swap the rod with the stock K20 CMC as Hybrid racing has you do for their Em1 CMC (instructions on their website). Usually an em1 style CMC (K-tuned, Hard Motion, ect) is around 5 threads showing. It sometimes takes a little more threads or a little less because every clutch is different. Carefully test out the clutch operation on a short drive before driving hard or anything like that.
Jason McMullen it’s an actual oem one. I’m struggling to thread back the other end. Do I need to relieve the clutch system of hydraulic pressure to be able to push the shaft all the way and thread the other end back?
bhadz100 you can also loosen (but don’t remove) the nuts that hold the cmc in place and slide it back a little to give yourself more space to get the thing threaded again. Just tighten it all back down after. Sorry you’re having trouble bro, I know how frustrating it can be sometimes. Shouldn’t have to relieve pressure
1999 Prelude with Competition Stage 2. Kinda the same adjustment? Stock master cylinder. I installed the clutch and my engagement point is way high.
So I have a Exedy oem em1 cmc with swapped rods from my ep3, and Exedy oem clutch , how many threads do I want showing?
could you tell how i might tell if i should do this or need a new clutch in general
So on my 8th gen si. When I press my clutch it clicks twice once about half way and then a second when the clutch is pressed all the way in.
hmm not sure about the clicking. It might need some urea grease on the end of the slave cylinder rod, or on the spring that is on the upper part of the clutch pedal. There are a few friction points on the upper part of the clutch pedal/CMC that might need grease. Let me know
Question: I have 2010 fg2 115k-kms and i adjusted it exactly how you described with number of threads and spacing, is this okay to do without putting in a brand new clutch? It has stock clutch and hasn’t been changed in a long time. So I’m wondering if I shouldn’t have done it? Thanks
yes it works great for the stock clutch too
should be fine
@@JasonMcMullenthx! I noticed a big difference right away, changed the whole feel of the clutch and shifting for the better
Are you still active on this channel?
I just got an Fg2 and randomly driving it stopped going into any gears. Do you think this is a cmc issue?
could be a clutch system issue, is there good pressure on the pedal?
After loosening the nut on the master cylinder, My rod on the master cylinder isn't spinning. At all. It's almost like it's locked in place. Any ideas?
Try to push down the pedal with one hand while spinning it with the other hand. Just measure the freeplay after with a ruler