FK8 Civic Type R Clutch Pedal Adjustment (Gear Grind Fix)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 жов 2019
- The adjustment from factory isn’t always perfect. This adjustment will ensure that your clutch disengages fully and quickly to get a smoother shift. With too much slop and not enough travel, the clutch can drag which causes notchy shifts and gear grinding.
- Авто та транспорт
Thank you so much! Now I can red line first gear all of the time now and not worry about grinding gears to second. Best type r video for owners.
It shifts so much faster and smoother! Thank you so much! Pedal feels stiffer and feel more connected to my car
Wow this was such a well demonstrated and explained video. It applies to so many other cars as well. Thank you!
Your a genius thank you this has been bugging me for four years
Yoooo 🙏🏼 thank you, I finally understand how to adjust the play in my clutch pedal.
Thank you!! although this did not fix my sometimes crunch feeling in second gear it did fix my inconsistancy in clutch grab and release. i found shifting slower at lower gears prevents the crunch. if i shift really fast then i get it. i did grind second tho when i first got the car 😬
I was skeptical, but a week after adjustment and no grinds. I previously deleted slave delay and changed to friction modified fluid and would still get grinds in 2nd. Took it to Honda and they could not duplicate. Advice I got from Honda's mechanic was NOT to push clutch in all the way, which is preposterous. So thanks for this.
Glad this was able to resolve your issue!
Did this on my DE5. Night and day difference.
Thanks man!
So with that rod, there's not supposed to be any play at all or just a very tiny bit?
Do you leave a slight amount of free play in the rod? Or would you suggest tightening the 12mm lock nut once all the play is taken up
I have to adjust mines now
Hello, what is the modified clutch master that you recommend? Thank you, greetings from Spain.
I was wondering if you know the easiest way to access the clutch bleed nipple when doing brake fluid change? I noticed either the intake pipe or the o2 sensor that connects to the down pipe is in the way. I want to find the easiest way to reach that nipple without doing extra work like removing all the stock intake parts to make room for my arm to get down there
I'm a skinny guy so I can maneuver my hand straight through the top. You might need to lift the car or remove the intake box.
Wherw u located can u do mines??
So i can adjust mines from the stopper can i have 3 threads n from there adjust the Freeplay
If I will be tightening/extending the CMC rod ever so slightly, just enough to take out the initial free play, do I need to still worry about the slave cylinder plunger and messing up the self-adjusting feature?
be careful buddy
Hey, hoping you might be able to help. I've got a 2018 accord that has a clutch pedal that's actually a bit higher than the brake and engagement point a little high as well. No slippage or grinding, but would this mod be able to drop the pedal down a little bit but also have the engagement point move with the pedal? Thx.
Leave it. That’s how it’s intended. By lowering the grab point, you’re reducing the amount of clutch travel which can cause grinding
@@AirsoftFanatics, thanks a lot. Coming from a GTI which ad engagement in the midpoint of clutch and clutch and brake pedal pretty much even to this different setup. Thank you for the quick reply.
On my s2000 I made sure I adjusted the cmc rod after I had replaced the cmc due to leaking. I have a bit of slop up top. I used the cruise control switch that the pedal connects as a gauge. It’s enough slip where the CMC rod pressure is not depressing the button for the cruise control, and only the spring tension for the pedal is pushing the cruise control button.
Long story short, the clutch pedal grabs where I need to around 70% mark and no grinds.
I didn’t like how when I turned the CMC rod clockwise , it made the clutch grab point high which is not typical.
Having issues, after bitepoint adjustment under throttle it rev hangs a bit and engine is fine. It’s clutch what’s your helpful suggestion I’ve been adjusting bitepoint and making sure the extension rod has a fair play
Make sure you didn’t add too much pedal pre load
Hi!! Thanks for the video! Where can i order the modified CMC? I also have the gear grinding problem in the civic type R so i hope this will solve the problem!
naperformanceftw.com
They been out of stock so long I wonder
I just got my type R. 300 miles now. The third gear is sometimes hard to get in, and I end up accidentally going to 5th when trying to shift from 2nd to 3rd
I traded mine in
You probably need to change the way you shift. Try this adjustment and see if it makes going into gear easier.
Wouldn't turning the rod clockwise till you feel it resist make the engagement up at the top? Since turning it counter will lower engagement?
Yes that’s correct. Having it bite up top would help the clutch release sooner.
Michael Wiellett thought most clutch companies say the clutch should engage in the middle and not the top or floor?
Kevin a little bit above the middle is fine. Definitely nothing lower though
Michael Wiellett how far out did you back the pedal on your car? I have Eman’s modified cmc
Kevin I only added maybe a 1/2 to full turn of pedal. I went a little past the resistance point when adjusting preload
Can this be done with the pedal still on or do I need to remove it?
You can leave the pedal. I took out the CMC to have it easier to see.
Hey man great video if im not deaf did u mention u switched ur cmc and slave to a 8th gen si? I guess if thats the case i can use the hybrid racing right?
I did switch the CMC but not to the 8th Gen Si. I bought a modified fk8 cmc from NAPerformance / k20z3allmotorftw on IG
Thank you for the explanation. What would happen if I do not tighten the nut again and drive?
The adjustment will not hold and can cause damage to the clutch components
Do you recommend the upgraded clutch master from the k20 guy? What's the difference in feel when you're driving?
I definitely recommend it. It has improved shifting a bit in terms of smoothness and how fast I can move the gear lever.
@@AirsoftFanatics that’s great! Did you do any other upgrades to the clutch slave or to the lines? Racing brake fluid?
@@vladsatchouk3323 I only upgraded to Endless RF650 fluid
@@AirsoftFanatics sorry for the questions did you do a full brake and clutch fluid flush and replaced with the endless or just flushed the clutch fluid and topped off with the endless RBF?
@@vladsatchouk3323 full flush of the brakes and clutch
Before switching out the cmc, did you have a buzzing sound when shifting between 4k and 6k?
I’m not sure if it happened with the stock one, but I do get the buzzing with the modified CMC.
I also get a buzzing sound
I get the buzzing sound too.. did you get it fixed?
@@kushmaster131 Ever get a solution to this?
@@ryancolvin1736 adjusting the clutch line near the battery helped.. But I still feel it once in a while. I just learned to live with it.
Also how come my 2020 type r is sluggish off the line in first gear like an automatic transmission
This will help with that issue but ctr is more for corners than straight lines
So when I twist the rod initially. You stated that the rod needs to be hitting the back of the cylinder or the front of it.
Daniel Lopez when you turn the rod clock wise you will feel it contact. The rod will be going further into the CMC.
Michael Wiellett ok so as it goes into the cylinder it should hit the back of it and I stop.
Daniel Lopez yes. Make sure it doesn’t fully max out. Just enough to make contact / resistance. You can probably go a quarter or half turn past just be sure to manually check your clutch slave cylinder. I have a video on that too
Any idea how to get the lock nut to break loose?
I imagine with an adjustable wrench and clockwise turning.
What’s the size of that jam nut?
Most are 12mm in previous models
IM GOING THRU THIS IN MY 18 SI, right after getting a clutch kit
Same dude
@@MnHondaSi clutch adjustment was the fix. It's pretty easy. And just make sure you adjust the clutch pedal sensor as well. I didn't take it out, I just adjusted the cylinder from behind the pedal
Hey im david icenhour and I live near Atlanta ga. And im having issues with my new 2020 type r grinding in 2 and locking out in 3 and 4th gear. Im having to push the clutch all the way to the floor some times to shift gears i have the extended warranty on the car i have only had it for 2 months i have a appointment at the Honda dealer in the morning they are claiming they don't have issues out of these cars what do I need to do about this
David Icenhour you should always push the clutch all the way to the floor before moving the shifter.
@@AirsoftFanatics I have been doing that too but still have the issue and this car only has 2.500 miles on it. I am taking it to the dealership tomorrow to show them what u said in the video I hope this fixes the issue it will lock me out of 4 and 3 gear sometimes too.
David Icenhour see what the dealer says. I would recommend adjusting your clutch pedal too. This will ensure your clutch is releasing properly
@@davidicenhour1106 I have a 2020 Type R as well and getting 2nd gear grind too. Mostly happens when I try to shift fast from 1st to second. My Type R was also purchased in the GA area. Crazy how yours is from the same state and doing the same. What did your dealer say? Is your problem solved? Thanks!
Yeah they said they could not replicate the problem
Dear Michael, many thanks for your video. I'm an owner of 2017 fk8 type r and ı have had transmission issues like stuck in 1st gear and sometimes difficulty in changing between 1st and 2nd gear. The feeling is not smooth and it makes me feel discomfartable while driving. How can ı buy this modified CMC? Will it correct my transmission issues? By the way, I'm living in Kayseri /Turkiye..
Mert Ali Karadağ have you tried this adjustment first to see if it helps? I would also recommend changing your transmission fluid to something like AC Delco Synchro Mesh Friction Modified. If all else fails you can contact k20z3allmotorftw on Instagram and purchase the CMC from him.
Dear Michael, ı still can not try this modification due to Corona precautions. I will do this as soon as going out😀. Some people also strongly advice to use CMCs of 01-05 Civic Em2 (05 Civic Ex) instead of 17's OEM CMCs. They claim that they are very strong. I look at the photos and they are very similar. Do you have any idea about this?
@@karadagmert Do not use EM2 CMC.
welp, mine was setup pretty good from the factory. the hunt for what's causing my problem continues...
what’s the problem buddy
Upshifting to 2nd was pretty crunchy. I'm not speedshifting or anything. Double clutching sometimes helped and waiting in neutral a sec would sometimes help but I would still get some crunch or slapping through the gear shift. @@Toosmoothtolose I also raised the pedal a touch and that sort of helped. Had the dealer look at it and I think they raised it even more because it's like 95% better now. The tech drove with me and he shifts like a madman and he said it was fine. I've got hondacare for the next 4 years on it as well and they've replaced trannies as well so I'm not gonna sweat it anymore. If it ever pops out of gear or grinds, they'll replace it. Don't have any complaints with the trans anymore honestly.
I hate to say it but they were supposed to be play before you feel stiffness when you push down the clutch
Correct. We’re just removing the excessive play and not removing it completely.
So I have to take out the the master. Lol make a video on it
Taking out the master isn't needed and can't actually be adjusted outside of the car anyways. I have an old master cylinder here to show it should be adjusted in car. Kinda hard to record underneath.