Clutch pedal adjustment explained
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- Опубліковано 10 жов 2016
- We go over how clutch pedal adjustment affects the clutch hydraulic system. Clutch pedal adjustment should be checked after a new clutch has been installed. Also if you are having disengagement issues this should be your first check.
*Please keep in mind that not every vehicle has this type of adjustment. - Авто та транспорт
Thanks so much man. Just fixed my manual ls1 down here in Australia. Saved me at least 300 bucks!!!
Thank you.. this helps me out with my situation… all I needed to see was it in motion
Thamk you sir! took me an hr to find your exact video here but in 2 min time you told me exactly what i needed to understand lol great video!
This video really helped clear things up for me thanks very much!
Thanks, this worked on my 1st gen 4runner. Toyota calls for 1/4th to 1/2 inches of pedal free play at the footpad. Once I adjusted the rod like this, it seemals to begin to engage the clutch at about 1" off the floorboard, which is pretty much how I remember it being.
dang my clutch doesn't engage until like 7 inches off the floorboard
This exlpanation makes too much sense 😎 thanks
So glad I took photos it didn't help till I saw my photos thank you
I have a tick performance clutch master cylinder in my 2002 Camaro SS. I shortened the travel of the clutch pedal and it has better take off from a dead stop and it doesn't hesitate like it used to when it was at full travel.
Anyone know the factory spec for a 05 350z?
I just replaced my clutch and it doesn’t feel right.
So update , I was recently experiencing issues with my new clutch engaging and shifting into gears, long story short I installed a new clutch shortly after the installation it was difficult for me to get into gears, yesterday I adjusted the clutch pedal similar as shown in this video and so far I've had no issues, looks like the fork wasn't in gaging the new clutch all the way so it didn't let me get into gears as easly . Now that problem has gone away since I did the adjustment thanks to this video . Hope this can help someone else 🙏
Did you have to adjust it to where you had more or less pedal play to get it to engage?
New update the clutch for wasn't replaced , so it broke where the pivot ball attached, my mistake of not replacing the clutch fork. That was making my shifting feel horrible
@@mrsemifixit yes less pedal to play with .
@@C7Tmac Cool. I can’t get mine to engage properly unless I eliminate a lot of pedal play. If I do it to factory spec it won’t go into gear. Is that normal for a clutch that has 190k miles? Maybe it needs more pedal travel to properly disengage
@@mrsemifixit I have a 2012 Camaro fifth generation not going into reverse or first seems I have plenty of clutch yet when I shut the car off I can go into gears but when I start the car in gear it starts taking off the pedal is just off the floor now under the hood on the line going into the master clutch cylinder there is a pedal adjustment does that allow more fluid to engage all the way
What if it can't work right even after loosing some fork travel and a new clutch, readjustments couldnt work at redline.
@EXEDYUSA Can you guys post the service manual page where the oem specs are listed? I need to prove the Subaru dealership there is such thing as oem spec adjustment for master / slave cylinder.
Ok cool, but how do you adjust it. You never showed us how? You just showed us what it looks like when it has been done.
Hahaha yup. What the
He just said in the beginning. You turn the rod if it’s threaded
@@Alexander_l322 he said 'you never showed us how' .... . 🤦
hey i own a 07 subaru impreza wagon 2.0R 5speed and i install the exedy fjk 2018 clutch and i cant it fell like the pedal clutch movment is too long
WOW just found this video and it prevented me kicking a 17 years olds ass!!! Thought hydraulic self adjusted
Great video
Would it be safe to say u can measure the distance from the flex plate and the bearing to find a good base to how much adjustment is needed? I say this bcuz some guys swap a dual flywheel for a lightweight and im sure that size difference would need to be accomodated by fork adjustments. Is that right?
can i adjust it below spec for faster engagement? or is that not ideal?
The reason people think clutches can't be adjusted is because so many mechanics tell customers that so they can get $1000 for a 5 minute adjustment, and they did it so many times that it's become a myth.
HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHhHhHhHHh soooooo. FREAKING! Trueeeee!!!!!
First thing you need a new clutch 😂😂
@@yazznalsawaeer131 hahahahaha
I'm sorry to tell that here in Italy it happens EXACTLY THE SAME
I'm not a mechanic,but my cluth in my cobalt chevy 2007 5 speed need's to be adjusted, i heard it is just a little clip that need's to be pushed back in and a scew to tighten it in place, is it easy to do ? And is that the problem?
How do aftermarket clutches effect Factory recommended clutch fork travel? For example does exedy have recommendations for each vehicle or is there absolutely no difference in travel distance?
So if i unscrew towards firewall, the clutch will have less travel?
Do you need to adjust over time
question. if there is some judder on late release?
In the 300zx is the same work after change the clutch disc?
That makes sense, since I replaced my old clutch to my new one I'm having issues going into gear at times , I feel like the fork isn't engaging the full potential for the new clutch and no I haven't trying to adjust the rod on the paddal yet so maybe that would help ?
And it helps or not?
Just ad my clutch/ transmission glued drained and replaced as part of a device. Now I have excessive clutch pedal travel Help, advice please.
Wow thanks so much
my shoelace got hung up behind my clutch pedal on my 2004 grand am, in my frustration, i jerked my leg upward. After that my pedal pushes down with no RESISTANCE and stays down, until i grab it and pull it back up. i see what looks like an aluminum rod with a ball at the end of it jus flopping there. i think it jumped on the other side of where it's suppose to be. please help
Can I do this to fix a sensitive clutch?
Lord our savior.... Thank you for showing how adjusting the Master cylinder rod affects the slave
what is an overstroke clutch?
Would this fix a problem where my clutch pedal feels pretty stiff or hard to press down? Or does anyone know why that happens? I replaced the clutch master and slave master cylinder, but now my clutch pedal is hard to press down. It still works fine though. Anyone please help. Thank you
That just gonna be the clutch spring. A lighter one will fix this and general clutch feel
I like a low bite point is it okay to adjust this pushrod to something other than the factory specs or does that put more wear and tear on the clutch? Thanks
So long as your clutch is completely engaging/disengaging it should be fine. The shop service manuals usually state a range of acceptable measurements, go for the far end of yours.
So which is better? Max or min?
From what i read having the rod further out of the pedal assembly means the clutch bite point is higher. If so would this allow for more clutch fluid to go through the system from Slave to master?
what are you reading lol
What causes the clutch pedal to ONLY return properly (not get stuck at one point) when the rod is threaded all the way out? Master and SLave both BRAND New, AND bled 100% properly .
I also just replaced my Master and the pedal won't spring back all the way. It seems like the pushrod for the master does not return all the way back with enough force to push the pedal back to resting position (!). Full travel on the actual clutch fork (at the Slave) but the pedal position is not behaving!!!! Help!
the angle from the ballpoint to the pedal is probably catching the housing on the cmc because it's full out, spray that sicker well with white lithium, if that doesn't help screw the rod in a bit towards pedal to reduce the angle until cmc is broken in around the ball. if you want full out with the rod then you will need to modify where the rod connects to the pedal with a drill to make the pin hole bigger so the angle can drop at full length
So on the toyobarus.... Is there a way to just move the friction zone? From the factory the clutch does not grab until the very top of pedal travel. That is unlike all of my other cars and it drives me nuts. I do not want to lower the pedal height or mess with how much the fork moves as shown in this video. Ideally I would like to keep the pedal travel the same but move the bite point lower in the pedal travel. Is that possible?
I also want to know how to do this but for my 93 corolla lol. Also drives me nuts man. Hill starts are so annoying because it let's out right where the free play starts.
So is there a certain distance you're supposed to have with the "sponge" the area where the pedal goes down, but doesn't actually start to disengage the clutch?
Yes that seems normal, every manual car I’ve driven has a small amount of ‘sponge’ as you put it before the clutch disengages as you press it down and a small amount when you lift the pedal up off the floor.
@@Alexander_l322 I drove a car with a tight clutch the other day, with no 'sponge' as you folks been talking, found it a quite difficult compared to my own.
Great video thank you
I just change my clutch to exedy and it act so weird.. Now my car will jump when starting from 1st gear into 2nd.
Very good material.
The manufacturers provide in servicemanual such cluch setting to destroy the spring early (in such seetings from servicemanual clutch work in overstroke condition).
Honda Civic 1.7 CTDI
In may car the clutch spring was damaged after 133000 kilometers.
The clutch was adjustment according to the honda servicemanual.
Iton Man does your clutch on Honda was very hard to press and is it catched very high?
I just installed a exedy stage 1 clutch and looking for the proper adjustment level. The paper work just says to adjust it where the clutch engages lowest to the floor.🤷🏻♂️
So it's supposed to be a short stroke
What if the clutch pedal is lower
I just replaced my Master and the pedal won't spring back all the way. It seems like the pushrod for the master does not return all the way back with enough force to push the pedal back to resting position (!). Full travel on the actual clutch fork (at the Slave) but the pedal position is not behaving!!!! Help!
Did you fix problem?
Did you ever fix the problem im having the same issue
what do you do on a car without a fork???? I have a 350z that has the clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing, there is no fork on it at all, the slave inside moves the pressure plate.
You make a to clip on adjusting the clutch for a positive church engagement?
It would sincerely help me.
after someone adjusted my clutch pedal rod and bled the system, it made a unsmooth disengagement and they couldn't fix it and showed the driveshaft u joints clunking on the lift when disengaging
bro,you might wana try adjusting the one shown by the exedy technician.i've tried it and it worked well on my new clutch.higher engagement point usually makes your u joint clunk due to delayed pull.
@@isaganiortiz9749 I'm now on changing the u joints and rear shaft seal cause no adjustment works.
At last! Johnson Rod discovered!
I put a stage 2 kit and flywheel in my 14 wrx and it drove good besides a little noise for about 10k miles. And then boom my master cylinder blew out. I replaced it, and blew that one out and so on for about 3 times. I have a new OEM one that I’m going to adjust to not put so much pressure on it and hope that helps. But I’ve been reading and ppl seem to be having this problem. Idk if it’s from Subaru’s master cylinders or exedys clutches. But please somebody come up with a upgraded master cylinder for a 14 wrx!
This is an old comment. But I’m having the exact same issue with my exedy stage 1 in my 2011 wrx. I’ve gone through 3 master cylinders. And tried every engagement. Gonna swap it out for a act stage 2
0:25 in other words an external clutch assembly.
I had install a clutch on my 2004 tsx and didnt change the adjustment.. so now after 8 months feels like my clutch is slipping.. i wonder if i burnt out my clutch?? Oh yea i install the Exedy racing clutch as well.. is it normal for those clutch to shutter when engaging? Whole engine shake when accelerating.
Jae O Oh yeah that’s totally normal LOL fuck kind of question is that
You probably glazed the disc by not breaking in the new clutch correctly.
@@Germfishclutches don't require breaking in.
is it possible to adjust it too much that it wont start with the clutch all the way down
Sounds like a neutral safety switch is bad
I don’t think you should do this. By changing this wouldnt you affect how much fluid pressure builds in the hydraulic system? Heard of people blowing their cmc this way
How to adjust it is the information some are looking for
Hi. What to do If the slave cylinder is not going completely all the way back after release clutch? I can push it back in the housing with force with my hand but it comes again out.
Ever figure it out?
Whats wrong with my car if my clutch pedal engages almost at the floor
I'm looking for the answer
...Are we human? Or are we dancer?
Which way lowers the bite point
Turning the adjustment rod counter-clockwise if you’re looking from the firewall to the back of the pedal. It will raise the clutch pedal height & lower the bite point
How about a old-school guys I drive a 69 F100.
I would think its a cable adjustment at the clutch fork ..
well thanks for not showing us how to adjust it
Well it would of been nice. 2:05
Explained shit all
This doesn't make any sense.
Shortening the rod just moves your pedal down. If you don't have a pedal stop that you're bottoming out on, adjusting this won't make any change to throw at the fork. You'll still bottom out the master and get the exact same movement at the slave.
I had a closer check on the fork travel against the adjustments and you are right. Regardless of how much in or out you adjust the rod, the fork travel is the same.
i hate clutches