Відео

Yes when I switched to this style shroud, I had to use a different fan hub. I had to use the recessed face fan hub that is for generators and not the flat face hub that is for alternators. It still holds the alternator though. Also, through the years it seems that the thickness of the fans themselves changed. You could need a different fan altogether, but it’s worth seeing if you can just shim it properly first. They sell the fan shims at any almost aircooled VW supply place.

Only 6k miles but so far so good. I don’t bang on em too bad though. Inspected pretty close (what I could see) on the last valve adjustment and things looked pretty good. Probably gonna run it pretty good when the Fall weather kicks in!

On the 40s I'm running 55 idle jets, 145 main jets and 200 air correction jets. I'm at sea level.

@@ratsrevengevdubs1606 yeah I am prolly lean my mains are 115 , it will bog out then get past the main jet and take off .iam only a 1600 with a scat c25 cam

​@@shawn9878yeah I had to experiment with my jetting. I had to buy a a few different jets before I found my combination. For best results make sure your carbs are tuned correctly. Tune your carb hot. Play around with the mixture screws then test drive. Good luck man. 👍

EMPI 2 inch narrowed adjustable beam. EMPI 2 1/2 inch drop spindles. Slightly shorter than stock shocks. Still a bit bouncy lol. I think I could smooth it out more if I found the right shocks.

IMHO you don’t need 40’s for a 1600, and you’ll probably have to jet them down to get optimal performance. But, if was going to do it again, I’d probably get 40’s just so I’d already have them when I build a bigger engine. 34 pros are better gas mileage, con is only one barrel trying to feed two intakes. Vice versa for the 40’s. But like I said, id get the 40’s to be prepared for bigger engine plus they can be made to run good on 1600 too. Id have to try the real Webers though, but they aren’t cheap. In my case, I got the EMPU 34’s barely used at a great price so that’s what I ran. They still go perfectly to this day, but you have to get the Redline kit with quality needle and seat. Best wishes with whatever you choose, dub daily!

@@bomberobus Thank you for the feed back i appreciated all information. Thank you again.

It’s not something you see a lot, but there was a short period that I used it on a stock distributor with no problem.

Yeah we learn hard VW lessons all the time. I’m excited for you if you’re building an engine already. You didn’t waste any time. It’s a struggle but so satisfying. Best wishes on getting going.

@@bomberobus I didn’t have a choice. 🤣 I drove it three times on the road before a tick started. Took it apart, found my oiler ring had given up on one piston, all the cylinders were pitted, one had a gouge taken out and one was cracked. So on to the tear down I went. With lots of UA-cam, calls to my hippie friend who breathes VW, and the books. It’s been fun so far though!

Thank you sir. I’m not spring chicken, and VW’s require the patience of a mature man haha

Yea sir, that style is meant to split one on top and one below. Not an easy chore! I learned to to proactively manipulate/tend to the places of the seal AS IM PUTTING THE ENGINE IN. It can be a doozie to try and situate it afterwards.

@@bomberobus I put in a new exhaust and pulled that pan....that is when I noticed the split seal and both "halves" were under the pan. I will get back in there and see if I can put it in properly. BTW - How do you like your Dual Weber 34 ICT? There are some people very against these carbs. Can I ask what jets you are using? Mine came with F78 emulsion tubes and from what I can gather the F6 is the preferred for a VW 1600 motor. What are you using for all your jets?

I think I have a video where I changed the shift coupler and bushing that you might want to see. Also it could just be a simple base plate adjustment, which I think is in that vid too. Pretty easy fixes, you just have to start with the easiest possibility and expand if needed from there. Try loosening the nuts that’s hold the shifter base down (slightly), then make sure you can shift from 3rd down to second. When you find that sweet spot, tighten the nuts back up. Hope it works because you’re gonna love that shifter if it does.

Sounds like the old “hard start” issue where it is flooding. If you push the gas pedal down (when it’s hot) it should start easier but that doesn’t fix the underlying problem, and the oil starts to smell like gas. There’s a good chance that your current pump is pushing too much fuel. Best of luck and I hope the gauge and regulator fix it for you.

So far the CSP linkage is still working like champ. I’m gonna try to stay with that “bellcrank” or “push/pull” linkage if I can ever get some Weber 40’s. Dub daily!

Our fuel prices here are still high too. Cheers across the pond!

@@bomberobus in finland one litre 98 costs almost 2€

@@brianzimmer5532 it definitely was. She good now. 👍🏼

I didn’t know that. Good thing for you though. I still think it’s a great set up, compared to previous ones I’ve used anyway

@@bomberobus Absolutely, I love it. If I want to put Webers on it, I'd have to buy something like this so the length and height are correct. Happy to know this product exists!

@@sidvis7235 Hmmmm, I will try that on the next one I do. That was the original one decades old. I hear that the new polyurethane ones don’t last long. Mines still shifting like new, but I’ll leave it dry next time so I can compare.

@@bomberobus Just a light film on the pin is fine, but's that's all I would lubricate. Gease and oil do not mix well with rubber. Neoprene isdifferent, it will withstand petroleum products. That's why fuel lines are not rubber, but neoprene.

@@alexsantos-o1c I appreciate that.

Souvenir is cool, but even better are the memories! Great hospitality and waves. I’ll never forget ES 😎

Thank you and best of luck 🤙🏼

The ones on this Bug rubbed ever so slightly on bumps. Not gonna lie…very light massaging was done at the fender well. Very light.

@@bomberobus Thanks

Good clean interior is the icing on the cake…I’m not there yet. My shoulder harness bolted into the window B-post. On mine it had a threaded hole there, and I had to order a bolt. Ours are only one year apart so maybe you have that same hole?

Glad it helped. Way more enjoyable to drive when they’re shifting smooth.

Thanks for the tips! I got this shifter sort of on accidental good luck. If I buy one I WANT THE TALL ONE so I’m glad to know it can be done. I agree that tall shift gives a lot of style points…just something cool about it🤷🏻‍♂️ especially I’m a Rat! Thanks again and dub daily.

55 idle, 150 main, 175 air correction works perfect on my 1800 here in southern US. Don’t know the deep physics of it, but when I read my plugs they tell that combo is the best so far, and it just runs great. Best of luck with your 1800…they rip when you want to.

@@bomberobus Awesome! Thanks for responding, I'll try this combo to start with.

@maxburmeister7689 no problem hope it helps. I made a few vids on those carbs/tuning/troubleshooting etc. I have the bug to build another engine (pun intended) but it’s not in my favor right now. I’m excited for you and your 1800🤙🏼

Congrats on getting the Bus! Yeah I’ve seen a lot of homemade ones that worked for short pulls. I went ahead and got this one for long hauls. Enjoy the 72 🤙🏼

I keep mine strictly regulated with a quality fuel pressure regulator. It runs best around 2.5 psi at 3k rpm. Any less and it gets starved, any more and it floods after shut down. I wouldn’t mind a good FI setup because these carbs can be finicky.

Sure, my brother runs one and it works great. In my opinion, they’re great for smaller 1600 and less engines that need the extra advance on take off. Once you go bigger than 1600 and do things like stroker and bigger valves etc, you’re revving past the 009 flat spot pretty quickly. Proper jet combo and it’s unnoticeable.

Si, y 2246 cam de CB Performance

LOL that’s fair if you think about it from his perspective! Have a great Memorial Day weekend.

Thanks. It has been great since I got it ironed out. It’s in the Bus now, but I’d like to get the same set up for the Bug soon. I bet your 914 is fun to drive!

I wished I had done that match porting too. I’m not complaining because it’s still going well. At least this way I’ve become very familiar with how it goes without the porting, so if I do match the intake and exhaust in the future I’ll be able to honestly tell how much of a difference it made. Best of luck with yours. Also, if that’s your Bug in the ID pic, I love that blue 🤙🏼

@@bomberobus honestly, unless your running a really nasty cam on a big stroker the stock ports are fine . Yeah that's my bug. The guy I bought it from painted it with blue house exterior paint. Looks like shit in person. Been stripping the blue off one panel at a time. Original color was tan. I have a short clip of it cruising ocean Blvd. On my channel. I like your channel, keep posting.

Thank you for watching 🤙🏼

Very true. It seems I never stop learning about the cause and effects of those engines. It helped me a lot watching your vids so thanks.

Thanks Mike! Search for J rock on the Samba. He makes and sells them there.

Thanks!

Thanks for that info. I did wonder if any clearancing at all would need to be done on a bigger engine, because it was so close on this one.

@@bomberobus its a tiny amount on a 90.5. almost nothing. I think we did it just in case. I dont think it was actually necessary. such a small amount. the 74 is an easy upgrade. My buddy did the 76 and he said he put it in a few cases he had and it fit right in too. just about the same amount as the 74. But some guys say you need to do full clearancing.

Glad it helped! Thanks for the sub 🤙🏼

My bad for the late response. Those are the 500 series heads from AA. I made a video comparing those heads to stock ones that you can find in the channel. Basically, that whole engine build is in there. I also have several vids of an 1800cc I built which you might be interested in. It takes no machine work and is definitely worth the extra power. The 1800 that I built in this channel is still running like a top. Best of luck whatever you choose!

Thanks buddy!

Yea sir on mine it does work. The instructions even say it will….”tach wire will hook to the same location as stock.” That’s is on the coil. Congrats on three years trouble free. It seems on rare occasions there are duds, but for the most part, when installed correctly these things run great.

@@bomberobus thanks, I'll be looking for a tachometer now.

Cool, maybe let me know how it goes because I had heard similar things as you did on how it wouldn’t work. Something about the variable spark, but I don’t know🤷🏻‍♂️

@bomberobus I'm thinking the reason I thought it wouldn't work was due to not being able to static time the Pertronix ignition. The negative terminal on the coil shows constant voltage, I'm guessing it pulses once the engine is running? I'll post the results once I install the tach. I have a 2110cc in my bug and the gears are definitely lower than stock, especially 3rd and 4th. The previous owner put the transaxle in but I don't know any details. It revs pretty high on the highway so I've wanted the tachometer to actually know.

Looking forward to the outcome. Sounds like that Bug can scoot. I firmly believe that the extra power is needed when trying to drive amongst modern traffic!

I can relate. I don’t even do it anymore unless the leak gets outrageous. I know you dub daily, and your Bug is looking good!

@@bomberobus that and the canyons out here make for some calm days. 😎

Thanks for the info. That was the first time I’d seen one so it looked weird. Apparently that’s normal 🤷🏻‍♂️