Відео

Broke it in with the same type of oil we run with. Changed it right after break in and then again at 500 miles. I don’t know if that’s what’s best, but it worked so well that’s how I do it now because I usually stick to what I’ve seen work…in person. No problem with asking questions and hoping the best for your Bus!

@@anrescue it sure did haha. Grabbed a bag of ‘em.

@ did you ever try putting on the balance tube to see if it made a difference? Or did you ever put some dual for IDF ‘s on it?

Not that I know of 🤷🏻‍♂️

I couldn’t agree more. I also keep an extra pump on board. I appreciate the genius/utilitarianism of the mechanical pump but am preferring other options right now, for many reasons.

@@bomberobus My car has a mixture of modern and old school. I have an electric fuel pump and still have points and condenser. Funny thing is that some guys will argue for the mechanical fuel pump while arguing against using points and condenser.

I don’t think anyone in the vintage VW world should ever argue about some parts over others, but that’s just me. We use what we can find, afford or rebuild. Maybe we find some preferences on that journey, but just get ‘em running and drive ‘em is what I say

@@bomberobus People in the Facebook forums will argue over the color of the sky.

True. Even when they’re advertised as balanced.

That is the “push/pull” or “bellcrank” linkage made by CSP. It’s been really good so I put one on my Bus too. I think I have an install vid on it because it turned out to have so many benefits I enjoy. Thanks for watching!

Thanks. I don’t think I showed actually using it in the vid, but that orange bucket on the left is Gunk brand carburetor parts cleaner. It has a basket inside that you put parts in and soak overnight, BUT NOT THE PLASTIC FLOATS. I also used spray cleaner and a little elbow grease, but the overnight part soaker was really good for knocking off the big stuff. Best of luck moving forward.

@@shaunh2798 thanks Shaun. 🤙🏼

@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle viper green! Yea sir, I’m good. I still drive the dubs ALOT. I have ALOT going on in personal life too, it’s all good and positive, but keeps me from making vids for now. Thanks for checking in bro. Hope you are doing well also.

@@bomberobus Glad to hear you're doing well. I'm doing well also, I got my 76 back on the road. Just miss seeing new videos on your channel, about your dubs projects.

Thanks James, and props for building 3 engines! I know that SoCal weather is probably perfect for cruisin the vdubs. Yep, We can’t even get a case opened up around here.

Glad it was helpful, thanks

Go to thesamba.com and search jeremyrockjock towbar. It’ll show his email too and he was very responsive when I dealt with him. Got it quick and high quality.

6k miles and running strong. I haven’t pulled it apart for inspection yet though. Compression “feels” good. I won’t build another 1600 as long as the 88’s are available. Down side is needing new heads for them.

@@bomberobus thanks for the information I appreciate on mine the previous owner add new head and I will check around if someone do head bore.

@MarsGarage333 best wishes on the build. I believe the extra power is needed to actually drive safe in todays traffic. Otherwise they will run you over! 😂

@@bomberobus I just received my 88 thick wall and they are a big difference in thickness now next step is my deck height and order some new head and I’m curious which head your brother installed and how the deck height was.

@MarsGarage333 I used a 43 thou deck height with a 74mm crank. 88 thick walls with AA heads for 90.5. That’s my 1800 build on this channel. 6k miles and still strong.

Yes when I switched to this style shroud, I had to use a different fan hub. I had to use the recessed face fan hub that is for generators and not the flat face hub that is for alternators. It still holds the alternator though. Also, through the years it seems that the thickness of the fans themselves changed. You could need a different fan altogether, but it’s worth seeing if you can just shim it properly first. They sell the fan shims at any almost aircooled VW supply place.

Only 6k miles but so far so good. I don’t bang on em too bad though. Inspected pretty close (what I could see) on the last valve adjustment and things looked pretty good. Probably gonna run it pretty good when the Fall weather kicks in!

On the 40s I'm running 55 idle jets, 145 main jets and 200 air correction jets. I'm at sea level.

@@ratsrevengevdubs1606 yeah I am prolly lean my mains are 115 , it will bog out then get past the main jet and take off .iam only a 1600 with a scat c25 cam

​@@shawn9878yeah I had to experiment with my jetting. I had to buy a a few different jets before I found my combination. For best results make sure your carbs are tuned correctly. Tune your carb hot. Play around with the mixture screws then test drive. Good luck man. 👍

@@79Keepingitreal thank you. It was a tough job to do and explain

EMPI 2 inch narrowed adjustable beam. EMPI 2 1/2 inch drop spindles. Slightly shorter than stock shocks. Still a bit bouncy lol. I think I could smooth it out more if I found the right shocks.

IMHO you don’t need 40’s for a 1600, and you’ll probably have to jet them down to get optimal performance. But, if was going to do it again, I’d probably get 40’s just so I’d already have them when I build a bigger engine. 34 pros are better gas mileage, con is only one barrel trying to feed two intakes. Vice versa for the 40’s. But like I said, id get the 40’s to be prepared for bigger engine plus they can be made to run good on 1600 too. Id have to try the real Webers though, but they aren’t cheap. In my case, I got the EMPU 34’s barely used at a great price so that’s what I ran. They still go perfectly to this day, but you have to get the Redline kit with quality needle and seat. Best wishes with whatever you choose, dub daily!

@@bomberobus Thank you for the feed back i appreciated all information. Thank you again.

It’s not something you see a lot, but there was a short period that I used it on a stock distributor with no problem.

Yeah we learn hard VW lessons all the time. I’m excited for you if you’re building an engine already. You didn’t waste any time. It’s a struggle but so satisfying. Best wishes on getting going.

@@bomberobus I didn’t have a choice. 🤣 I drove it three times on the road before a tick started. Took it apart, found my oiler ring had given up on one piston, all the cylinders were pitted, one had a gouge taken out and one was cracked. So on to the tear down I went. With lots of UA-cam, calls to my hippie friend who breathes VW, and the books. It’s been fun so far though!

Thank you sir. I’m not spring chicken, and VW’s require the patience of a mature man haha

Yea sir, that style is meant to split one on top and one below. Not an easy chore! I learned to to proactively manipulate/tend to the places of the seal AS IM PUTTING THE ENGINE IN. It can be a doozie to try and situate it afterwards.

@@bomberobus I put in a new exhaust and pulled that pan....that is when I noticed the split seal and both "halves" were under the pan. I will get back in there and see if I can put it in properly. BTW - How do you like your Dual Weber 34 ICT? There are some people very against these carbs. Can I ask what jets you are using? Mine came with F78 emulsion tubes and from what I can gather the F6 is the preferred for a VW 1600 motor. What are you using for all your jets?

I think I have a video where I changed the shift coupler and bushing that you might want to see. Also it could just be a simple base plate adjustment, which I think is in that vid too. Pretty easy fixes, you just have to start with the easiest possibility and expand if needed from there. Try loosening the nuts that’s hold the shifter base down (slightly), then make sure you can shift from 3rd down to second. When you find that sweet spot, tighten the nuts back up. Hope it works because you’re gonna love that shifter if it does.

Sounds like the old “hard start” issue where it is flooding. If you push the gas pedal down (when it’s hot) it should start easier but that doesn’t fix the underlying problem, and the oil starts to smell like gas. There’s a good chance that your current pump is pushing too much fuel. Best of luck and I hope the gauge and regulator fix it for you.

So far the CSP linkage is still working like champ. I’m gonna try to stay with that “bellcrank” or “push/pull” linkage if I can ever get some Weber 40’s. Dub daily!

Our fuel prices here are still high too. Cheers across the pond!

@@bomberobus in finland one litre 98 costs almost 2€

@@jamipatokoski6487 and the costs of VW parts have gone up so much too.

@@brianzimmer5532 it definitely was. She good now. 👍🏼

I didn’t know that. Good thing for you though. I still think it’s a great set up, compared to previous ones I’ve used anyway

@@bomberobus Absolutely, I love it. If I want to put Webers on it, I'd have to buy something like this so the length and height are correct. Happy to know this product exists!

@@sidvis7235 Hmmmm, I will try that on the next one I do. That was the original one decades old. I hear that the new polyurethane ones don’t last long. Mines still shifting like new, but I’ll leave it dry next time so I can compare.

@@bomberobus Just a light film on the pin is fine, but's that's all I would lubricate. Gease and oil do not mix well with rubber. Neoprene isdifferent, it will withstand petroleum products. That's why fuel lines are not rubber, but neoprene.

@@alexsantos-o1c I appreciate that.

Souvenir is cool, but even better are the memories! Great hospitality and waves. I’ll never forget ES 😎

Thank you and best of luck 🤙🏼

The ones on this Bug rubbed ever so slightly on bumps. Not gonna lie…very light massaging was done at the fender well. Very light.

@@bomberobus Thanks

Good clean interior is the icing on the cake…I’m not there yet. My shoulder harness bolted into the window B-post. On mine it had a threaded hole there, and I had to order a bolt. Ours are only one year apart so maybe you have that same hole?

Glad it helped. Way more enjoyable to drive when they’re shifting smooth.

Thanks for the tips! I got this shifter sort of on accidental good luck. If I buy one I WANT THE TALL ONE so I’m glad to know it can be done. I agree that tall shift gives a lot of style points…just something cool about it🤷🏻‍♂️ especially I’m a Rat! Thanks again and dub daily.

55 idle, 150 main, 175 air correction works perfect on my 1800 here in southern US. Don’t know the deep physics of it, but when I read my plugs they tell that combo is the best so far, and it just runs great. Best of luck with your 1800…they rip when you want to.

@@bomberobus Awesome! Thanks for responding, I'll try this combo to start with.

@maxburmeister7689 no problem hope it helps. I made a few vids on those carbs/tuning/troubleshooting etc. I have the bug to build another engine (pun intended) but it’s not in my favor right now. I’m excited for you and your 1800🤙🏼

Congrats on getting the Bus! Yeah I’ve seen a lot of homemade ones that worked for short pulls. I went ahead and got this one for long hauls. Enjoy the 72 🤙🏼

I keep mine strictly regulated with a quality fuel pressure regulator. It runs best around 2.5 psi at 3k rpm. Any less and it gets starved, any more and it floods after shut down. I wouldn’t mind a good FI setup because these carbs can be finicky.

Sure, my brother runs one and it works great. In my opinion, they’re great for smaller 1600 and less engines that need the extra advance on take off. Once you go bigger than 1600 and do things like stroker and bigger valves etc, you’re revving past the 009 flat spot pretty quickly. Proper jet combo and it’s unnoticeable.

Si, y 2246 cam de CB Performance

LOL that’s fair if you think about it from his perspective! Have a great Memorial Day weekend.

Thanks. It has been great since I got it ironed out. It’s in the Bus now, but I’d like to get the same set up for the Bug soon. I bet your 914 is fun to drive!