No chokes, non heated intake manifold, dual carbs Can equal the typical cold eng. bog when trying to acclerate. Air/fuel mixture turns back to raw fuel running into the eng. I live in British Columbia Canada, lots of rain , cold damp weather. Happy VDub days , always.
I feel that going to a wider than stock plug gap is only useful when your engine is prone to fouling plugs, from oil, or too much fuel. Having a high output ignition is more necessary with high compression or boost, to overcome the extra resistance of a more dense cylinder charge. I think, doing you seat of the pants test revealed that the stock plug gap was doing a good job for you, and there was nothing needed to improve. 👍
Similar thoughts from me Tony B. I probably don’t have enough CR, CC, or carburetor. I’m just glad it’s finally running so smooth. Man I went round and round with this thing😂
I feel bad because drove it today for the second time, and felt like I actually did notice some extra punch (barely). Too bad I had already posted the vid. I had same thought, gap a little more and go from there.
Nice to see this topic, like you say you dont really need this kind of stuff to have a great runner. I have had some distributors like the 123, petronix simple, the one in this video and some kind of MSD. After playing with all the expensive stuff over the years i have sold it all and im sticking with the one that works the best for me, im running it in all my engines now. The best price/quality still is to use a original bosch distributor, 009 or SVDA whatever you need for you application and installing a set of Aliexpress electric points in them. Those ali kits are good en little better than the ones from empi and better or same as other knows brands. (for some distributors you need to file down the mounting plate a little from the points, but thats because they some distributors are slightly different inside. Like the ***F and ***J types. The ali cost 1/4 of the price from the expensive brand. Also i like to put a extra relay in the engine compartment and use direct current from the battery, results in direct start and hot spark at all time. Have installed those set-ups for some customers to, and they all tell me their car has never ran that good and strong at all RPM's. The spark is so great you can get a good carb tune to, running with -5 to -7 degrees timing at idle, so their engines idles extremely smooth (SVDA). 123Ign has lots of issues with software and the warm start and cold program kicks in at random times. Just stick with Bosch if you can. If you can, i advise you to try out a set of ali points.
This is awesome. I love when people share such great info based on their experiences. I haven’t heard of the Aliexpress. Sounds like a fair trade if they’re more reliable than the Empi ones. I’ll probably never go all in with an expensive set up again, but if I can ever find a fairly priced and fairly reliable electronic set of points to run in a Bosch distributor, then I think the best middle ground has been found. Thanks for sharing!
mechanical points are an rpm compromise so the spark gap needs to handle the bad parts of the compromise. electronic ignitions compensate for rpm so open up the gap. i run .035 on a similar sized engine, cr and carb setup. the change will be subtle so as you said seat of pants may not notice.
Excellent explanation as always from Scotty C! I felt like .038 would’ve been too much, so I played around with .033, and meh….it feels negligible. Glad to get some numbers from your experience. I do intend to bump the gap up again so I’ll try the .035 for sure.
Not exactly, but I have a theory. Ultimately, it is more beneficial to stay in the Bus, but I will eventually put it back in the Bug to confirm my suspicions. Basically, I don’t think the Bug was the problem, but will confirm it in the future. Thanks for checking it out my friend who’s holding down the West Coast.
@@bomberobus wow. Well if you ever figure what the heck is going on let us know. I plan to go electronic but keeping dizzy just replacing the points with electronic ignition.
@@SanDiego_VDubLife I know right?! 😂 You’ll probably enjoy dropping in some electronic points. I mean from what I can gather, the electronic points are working proper, which was my biggest concern (or so I thought) initially.
White lithium initially, very light smudge where the top weight slides. Recently I saw some witness marks (not bad) where that weight slides over the bottom part. That’s where I then dabbed some WD-40 and also a drop on the springs.
Awesome man glad you're making progress on the pertronix. She sounds good! 👍
Getting the kinks ironed out!
Thank you for displaying Old Glory in your shop! But please flip it over so the stars are on the left.
I’ve never displayed one vertically, but I see it should be the left as I view it, per US flag code. Glad to fix it.
Thank you!
No chokes, non heated intake manifold, dual carbs Can equal the typical cold eng. bog when trying to acclerate. Air/fuel mixture turns back to raw fuel running into the eng. I live in British Columbia Canada, lots of rain , cold damp weather. Happy VDub days , always.
Well it was cold that day, but I don’t know if it was Canada cold LOL. I’ve never been, but seems like beautiful country there. VDubbin on the daily
Nice 👍🏻 congrats great job
Thanks man. Almost everything that could’ve went wrong did go wrong. I learned a lot though
I feel that going to a wider than stock plug gap is only useful when your engine is prone to fouling plugs, from oil, or too much fuel. Having a high output ignition is more necessary with high compression or boost, to overcome the extra resistance of a more dense cylinder charge.
I think, doing you seat of the pants test revealed that the stock plug gap was doing a good job for you, and there was nothing needed to improve. 👍
Similar thoughts from me Tony B. I probably don’t have enough CR, CC, or carburetor. I’m just glad it’s finally running so smooth. Man I went round and round with this thing😂
You need to keep increasing it until it runs crappy then decrease the gap until it runs good again.
That's your max gap.
I feel bad because drove it today for the second time, and felt like I actually did notice some extra punch (barely). Too bad I had already posted the vid. I had same thought, gap a little more and go from there.
Nice to see this topic, like you say you dont really need this kind of stuff to have a great runner.
I have had some distributors like the 123, petronix simple, the one in this video and some kind of MSD.
After playing with all the expensive stuff over the years i have sold it all and im sticking with the one that works the best for me, im running it in all my engines now. The best price/quality still is to use a original bosch distributor, 009 or SVDA whatever you need for you application and installing a set of Aliexpress electric points in them. Those ali kits are good en little better than the ones from empi and better or same as other knows brands. (for some distributors you need to file down the mounting plate a little from the points, but thats because they some distributors are slightly different inside. Like the ***F and ***J types. The ali cost 1/4 of the price from the expensive brand.
Also i like to put a extra relay in the engine compartment and use direct current from the battery, results in direct start and hot spark at all time. Have installed those set-ups for some customers to, and they all tell me their car has never ran that good and strong at all RPM's. The spark is so great you can get a good carb tune to, running with -5 to -7 degrees timing at idle, so their engines idles extremely smooth (SVDA). 123Ign has lots of issues with software and the warm start and cold program kicks in at random times. Just stick with Bosch if you can. If you can, i advise you to try out a set of ali points.
This is awesome. I love when people share such great info based on their experiences. I haven’t heard of the Aliexpress. Sounds like a fair trade if they’re more reliable than the Empi ones. I’ll probably never go all in with an expensive set up again, but if I can ever find a fairly priced and fairly reliable electronic set of points to run in a Bosch distributor, then I think the best middle ground has been found. Thanks for sharing!
mechanical points are an rpm compromise so the spark gap needs to handle the bad parts of the compromise. electronic ignitions compensate for rpm so open up the gap. i run .035 on a similar sized engine, cr and carb setup. the change will be subtle so as you said seat of pants may not notice.
Excellent explanation as always from Scotty C! I felt like .038 would’ve been too much, so I played around with .033, and meh….it feels negligible. Glad to get some numbers from your experience. I do intend to bump the gap up again so I’ll try the .035 for sure.
Did you ever figure out why the bug didn’t like the distributor?
Not exactly, but I have a theory. Ultimately, it is more beneficial to stay in the Bus, but I will eventually put it back in the Bug to confirm my suspicions. Basically, I don’t think the Bug was the problem, but will confirm it in the future. Thanks for checking it out my friend who’s holding down the West Coast.
Maybe the plug and coil wire can’t handle the coil and dizzy
Except those wires were the very specific ones recommended by Pertronix and came from them. 🤷🏻♂️
@@bomberobus wow. Well if you ever figure what the heck is going on let us know. I plan to go electronic but keeping dizzy just replacing the points with electronic ignition.
@@SanDiego_VDubLife I know right?! 😂
You’ll probably enjoy dropping in some electronic points. I mean from what I can gather, the electronic points are working proper, which was my biggest concern (or so I thought) initially.
Which grease did you use to lube the distributor?
White lithium initially, very light smudge where the top weight slides. Recently I saw some witness marks (not bad) where that weight slides over the bottom part. That’s where I then dabbed some WD-40 and also a drop on the springs.
@@bomberobus
Thanks for the information. 👍