I also fitted 2 1/2” dropped spindles, to my 66 Aussie Bug, lowered the rear by 1 outer notch, things I noticed over 6 months. I fitted 145 x 15” tyres to the front to clear the guards on full lock. The turning radius of the car increased, and was very hard to turn, the steering wheel would not return to centre, ride comfort gone on the highway, harsh ride up front, soft bouncy ride in the rear, then there were pothole dramas, and speed hump scraping, parking at angle parks hitting the kerb, I finally gave in and refitted the stock spindles and raised the rear to stock. Yes I miss the lowered stance but saved my sanity! 😊
Yes with all that considered, AND the deep sump I’m running, I’ll just leave things alone for now. Maybe adjustable spring plates can get me just half inch drop in the rear but that’s on the back burner for now. I admire your willingness to do the work and learn from actual experience. Thanks for sharing
Thanks buddy! I finally got a carport 😂 not much but I love it! Glad to see your vid today, you’re a busy dude! I love to hear your specific findings about those parts👍
Love your bug. I did this recently to a ball-joint 67; 2.5" drop spindles up front and a ~3/4" drop in the rear. One inner spline clockwise and one outer spline counter-clockwise will drop the unloaded spring plate ~1/2°. I got both sides spot-on at 16° unloaded which put the axle tube at 0° and camber at -1/2° after the suspension settled. Also put new bushings in while I was in there. Also, most of the wear you see on the inside corner of a tire is due to too much toe-out, not negative camber. Get the rear toe at zero to eliminate the inside scrub.
That is a lot of info and it’s my favorite kind….it’s not something you heard, it’s something YOU DID. Nice work, thanks for checking it out and the tips.
Over here in Corpus Christi the streets have so many pot holes if you slammed it would knock the muffler off?????? Rambus is a 1971 and every time I drive to town I have a fear of breaking a ball joint . Once in San Antonio at a light a lady next to me was putting on makeup and when the light changed she hit me on the right tire knocking the ball joint out of the arm . I jacked it up and put it back in hit with a hammer and it made it back home . The next day I pressed a new one in and tac welded it . I didn't want to put a bead because it would melt the nylon inside . I like your 65 like it is !
Thanks Jimmy I appreciate it. I think you’re right my friend gonna leave it how it is…for awhile hahaha. I do like the slightly raked look. Your story about the Rambus misadventure is a perfect example of a real VW dude! Glad you got it sorted out. Dub daily🤙🏼
Thanks, I love them all but some years seem better (or worse) for different reasons. Good luck with the research! I’m happy with whatever I can find a great deal on, but got lucky with my 65. Thanks for checking out the vids!
Mike, Mike, Mike. Only way to fine tune is with adjustable spring plates. Which means forking over the cash. Plan b is to turn to spring plate one notch. Mine is a lowered 65. Not sure how many splines I turned it. I did it a very long time ago. Another option is the stock size tires which are taller and will close that rear gap. Stock will always have that positive camber I think. Mine has a negative camber and I went through one pair of rear tires but I rarely drive my big and I have had it for over 20 years. If you want the stock angle on tube you have to use adjustable spring plates. You can also switch the tranny for an irs one but that will cost more that plates. You car will probably sit level. It will not be higher in the front. Mine is level or lower in back but nose doesn’t stick up. I will try to take pics and send via Instagram.
Brother you nailed it! A little experiment with weighting the rear end clearly showed that I must have adjustable spring plates for the look I want, without compromising component function or comfort. Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@bomberobus Just saw the thumbnail of your newest video. The carport looks even better. I'm in Southern Arizona and have been looking for property with a separate shop or space to build another shop, however, your carport setup looks like it would do pretty good out here.
@@diernosaj it’s a good set up. Don’t know how much rain you get there but it’s a factor here. We get a lot of it and things do get a little wet in there. I was thinking about putting walls up but I just love the open view for now. Good luck with your search!
caster shims for the front and half inch lower in the back. still have the lean with better driveability and not much change in the axle tubes. it's your ride. do what you want.
Right on. I put some weight on the back, and when it dropped 1/2” that’s when I saw some negative camber begin at the wheels, and slight bending of the axle. I hadn’t thought about the shims so thanks for the idea👍
How about temporarily adding some weight on the back, until you get the look you want. Then you can put a level on the axle tubes, to answer your question about the camber, and also get a target dimension as to, how much you want to lower it. FYI, I put a camber compensator on my 62, and it lowered it enough, that I feel it’s squatting in the rear and now needs the front lowered. Here’s another idea. What if you went one spline lower on the rear torsion bars and added air shocks on the rear to fine tune the height? Just an idea. Good luck!👍
Well so far I used your “weight on the back” idea and found: the wheel/fender gap only needed to go down 1/2” to be where I like. Doesn’t sound like much but that’s what I liked. Coincidentally, at 1/2” lower that was the the sweet spot where the camber move into negative territory (just a smidge), and the axle started to point up (just a smidge). So I learned the the freebie route of re-indexing the splines will be too much of a drop for me. Might get some adjustable spring plates one day, but gonna roll how it is for now. Thanks for those ideas it means a lot!
I like the rake. My bug is lowered 1 spine only at the rear and it sits absolutely level at the rear with the wheels sitting nicely in the guards: No big gap but not tucked under either. That might be a good medium for you. Like you I don't like huge camber on the rear!
Thanks man. Honestly, if I didn’t see the positive camber at certain angles then I wouldn’t even be concerned. I like rake, but the no gap untucked look is cool too, and seems to be the outcome I’ll need.
Back again. Was thinking about this video today. Came across a 63 on 71 pan. This is the IRS suspension correct? Does this suspension have the same oil to the bearings issue as the swing?
A lot of people love that. Old school looker sitting on newer legs, just depends on how much of a purist you are. I’d reckon it’s the IRS, which doesn’t get lubricated through the axle like a swing axle does so you’re good there. Buuuuuut it’s a bit wider so if and when ya slam it, there’s more nuances about getting the wheels to clear the fender. Not a big deal though, peeps do it all the time
The car has a good profile The rake looks nice As far as the dilemma, seems your vid answered a lot of your concerns, good luck with your decision Good to see another vid from Bombero Bus 👍👍👍
You said it OTTO! Reflecting on the vid, and experimenting with an idea from Tony B, I realized that re-indexing the the spline isn’t the way for me. Gonna keep the rad rake for now and maybe, maybe adjust it down 1/2” with adjustable spring plates one day. Appreciate the feedback!
Samba…I should’ve known. Turns out that re-indexing the splines isn’t gonna he for me. Gonna keep it comfortable the way it is and maybe adjustable spring plates one day. I put some weight on the rear, and when it dropped 1/2” camber started to move negative and axle started pointing up. I can’t be stressing fulcrum plates and have dry wheel bearings on the daily 🤷🏻♂️
I also fitted 2 1/2” dropped spindles, to my 66 Aussie Bug, lowered the rear by 1 outer notch, things I noticed over 6 months. I fitted 145 x 15” tyres to the front to clear the guards on full lock. The turning radius of the car increased, and was very hard to turn, the steering wheel would not return to centre, ride comfort gone on the highway, harsh ride up front, soft bouncy ride in the rear, then there were pothole dramas, and speed hump scraping, parking at angle parks hitting the kerb, I finally gave in and refitted the stock spindles and raised the rear to stock. Yes I miss the lowered stance but saved my sanity! 😊
Yes with all that considered, AND the deep sump I’m running, I’ll just leave things alone for now. Maybe adjustable spring plates can get me just half inch drop in the rear but that’s on the back burner for now. I admire your willingness to do the work and learn from actual experience. Thanks for sharing
I love the opening image, of Jimi Hendrix the bug and then the cool Bay Window bus!
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\/\/ 🤟🤟🤟
Thanks buddy! I finally got a carport 😂 not much but I love it! Glad to see your vid today, you’re a busy dude! I love to hear your specific findings about those parts👍
Love your bug. I did this recently to a ball-joint 67; 2.5" drop spindles up front and a ~3/4" drop in the rear. One inner spline clockwise and one outer spline counter-clockwise will drop the unloaded spring plate ~1/2°. I got both sides spot-on at 16° unloaded which put the axle tube at 0° and camber at -1/2° after the suspension settled. Also put new bushings in while I was in there. Also, most of the wear you see on the inside corner of a tire is due to too much toe-out, not negative camber. Get the rear toe at zero to eliminate the inside scrub.
That is a lot of info and it’s my favorite kind….it’s not something you heard, it’s something YOU DID. Nice work, thanks for checking it out and the tips.
Over here in Corpus Christi the streets have so many pot holes if you slammed it would knock the muffler off?????? Rambus is a 1971 and every time I drive to town I have a fear of breaking a ball joint . Once in San Antonio at a light a lady next to me was putting on makeup and when the light changed she hit me on the right tire knocking the ball joint out of the arm . I jacked it up and put it back in hit with a hammer and it made it back home . The next day I pressed a new one in and tac welded it . I didn't want to put a bead because it would melt the nylon inside . I like your 65 like it is !
Thanks Jimmy I appreciate it. I think you’re right my friend gonna leave it how it is…for awhile hahaha. I do like the slightly raked look. Your story about the Rambus misadventure is a perfect example of a real VW dude! Glad you got it sorted out. Dub daily🤙🏼
Good information to know. I’m currently researching exactly what Year Bug I want to buy. Thanks.
Thanks, I love them all but some years seem better (or worse) for different reasons. Good luck with the research! I’m happy with whatever I can find a great deal on, but got lucky with my 65. Thanks for checking out the vids!
I put a pair of 12” subs in the back to help getting rid of the positive camber and handled noticeably better. Oh yea it sounds great too lol
Hahaha, two birds with one stone! I’m gonna consider this as a possible solution too. 🎵
Mike, Mike, Mike. Only way to fine tune is with adjustable spring plates. Which means forking over the cash. Plan b is to turn to spring plate one notch. Mine is a lowered 65. Not sure how many splines I turned it. I did it a very long time ago. Another option is the stock size tires which are taller and will close that rear gap. Stock will always have that positive camber I think. Mine has a negative camber and I went through one pair of rear tires but I rarely drive my big and I have had it for over 20 years. If you want the stock angle on tube you have to use adjustable spring plates. You can also switch the tranny for an irs one but that will cost more that plates. You car will probably sit level. It will not be higher in the front. Mine is level or lower in back but nose doesn’t stick up. I will try to take pics and send via Instagram.
Brother you nailed it! A little experiment with weighting the rear end clearly showed that I must have adjustable spring plates for the look I want, without compromising component function or comfort. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Just saw your video. Just wanted to say I really like your clean carport setup. Plenty of room to work around the bug.
Thanks Jason. It’s been so nice to get off of the dirt!
@@bomberobus Just saw the thumbnail of your newest video. The carport looks even better. I'm in Southern Arizona and have been looking for property with a separate shop or space to build another shop, however, your carport setup looks like it would do pretty good out here.
@@diernosaj it’s a good set up. Don’t know how much rain you get there but it’s a factor here. We get a lot of it and things do get a little wet in there. I was thinking about putting walls up but I just love the open view for now. Good luck with your search!
caster shims for the front and half inch lower in the back. still have the lean with better driveability and not much change in the axle tubes. it's your ride. do what you want.
Thats how I run!
Right on. I put some weight on the back, and when it dropped 1/2” that’s when I saw some negative camber begin at the wheels, and slight bending of the axle. I hadn’t thought about the shims so thanks for the idea👍
How about temporarily adding some weight on the back, until you get the look you want. Then you can put a level on the axle tubes, to answer your question about the camber, and also get a target dimension as to, how much you want to lower it.
FYI, I put a camber compensator on my 62, and it lowered it enough, that I feel it’s squatting in the rear and now needs the front lowered.
Here’s another idea. What if you went one spline lower on the rear torsion bars and added air shocks on the rear to fine tune the height? Just an idea.
Good luck!👍
Well so far I used your “weight on the back” idea and found: the wheel/fender gap only needed to go down 1/2” to be where I like. Doesn’t sound like much but that’s what I liked. Coincidentally, at 1/2” lower that was the the sweet spot where the camber move into negative territory (just a smidge), and the axle started to point up (just a smidge). So I learned the the freebie route of re-indexing the splines will be too much of a drop for me. Might get some adjustable spring plates one day, but gonna roll how it is for now. Thanks for those ideas it means a lot!
I like the rake. My bug is lowered 1 spine only at the rear and it sits absolutely level at the rear with the wheels sitting nicely in the guards: No big gap but not tucked under either. That might be a good medium for you. Like you I don't like huge camber on the rear!
Thanks man. Honestly, if I didn’t see the positive camber at certain angles then I wouldn’t even be concerned. I like rake, but the no gap untucked look is cool too, and seems to be the outcome I’ll need.
How would air bags help with the fluid out to the drums? Is the idea that you ride at the height you are at now? And only slam when parked?
Yes I’d have to use the bag cautiously/sparingly or there’d be the same issue.
Back again. Was thinking about this video today. Came across a 63 on 71 pan. This is the IRS suspension correct? Does this suspension have the same oil to the bearings issue as the swing?
A lot of people love that. Old school looker sitting on newer legs, just depends on how much of a purist you are. I’d reckon it’s the IRS, which doesn’t get lubricated through the axle like a swing axle does so you’re good there. Buuuuuut it’s a bit wider so if and when ya slam it, there’s more nuances about getting the wheels to clear the fender. Not a big deal though, peeps do it all the time
Your oil sump will be super low once you lower it. I had a manhole cover take out my oil sump and I went down one click. Have 155 tires on the rear.
You’re right, even though it’s a thin line sump Its not worth the risk of tearing it up, especially on the rough terrain Around here 👍🏼
The car has a good profile
The rake looks nice
As far as the dilemma, seems your vid answered a lot of your concerns, good luck with your decision
Good to see another vid from Bombero Bus 👍👍👍
You said it OTTO! Reflecting on the vid, and experimenting with an idea from Tony B, I realized that re-indexing the the spline isn’t the way for me. Gonna keep the rad rake for now and maybe, maybe adjust it down 1/2” with adjustable spring plates one day. Appreciate the feedback!
INSTALL 205 TIRES OR MOVE TWO NOTCH ON SPRING PLATES
Gonna go 205 next time I need tires. 👍🏼
My 65 1click rear looks good slight negative exact opposite of your positive. Don't know how to send pics
Thanks for that info especially since it’s a swing axle ‘65 too
@@bomberobus you want a slight negative it gives you better traction in churners
Samba has a degrees/chart on how to lower the rear end.
Samba…I should’ve known. Turns out that re-indexing the splines isn’t gonna he for me. Gonna keep it comfortable the way it is and maybe adjustable spring plates one day. I put some weight on the rear, and when it dropped 1/2” camber started to move negative and axle started pointing up. I can’t be stressing fulcrum plates and have dry wheel bearings on the daily 🤷🏻♂️
@@bomberobus You can always build a custom type 1 floor pan,from a parts car.
King pin front end with a irs rear end. Its what the Baja guys do.