Відео

awesome video!

Very informative, thank you. I just acquired one today for $14 in a garage clearance and at first thought it was a British Record brand router plane. Closer inspection showed the Stanley logo. Your video now tells me its a type 2 router plane! However, it has been modified by some previous owner. The knobs look to have been replaced but that can be rectified. The single blade it came with is not the type it came with but has the notch for a height adjuster. Finally, a threaded height adjustment post and adjustment nut was added to 'modernize' it to make it like the type 2. 71 1/2... Still fully functional and great to have in my toolset. 😀

Wd 40 and a hunk of flat cast iron (table saw. Get some sticker-type automotive sand paper and you can remove rust and flatten the iron.

On one of mine the threads were dinged up on the very end. I used a small triangular file to smooth them out. It was a type 17, WW2 era plane with a steel adjuster nut so that helped in getting it off.

Looking for a history of an eclipse smoothing plane.

Can u get me a 45 for a decent price

Nice K3

Would it be the same for the made in England planes??

How for the knight plane ?

How much for the 271 ?

Translate Japanese: Smart phones have apps that work thru the camera. Needs to be downloaded.

It is pronounced vine land . But a nice haul for sure. Love your videos. They are very informative.

Nice finds! Especially those stones

I have an ECE Primus #4 smoother. It is sort of like the transitional equivalent of the ECE you showed, with a wooden body and mechanical innards. The sole is lignum vitae and it has an adjustable mouth. I love it. The horned body took a little getting used to, but it adjusts on the fly with zero backlash and leaves a beautiful burnished surface.

Those Greenlee chisels are tempting too.

Are the two Stanley Gage planes spoken for?

Of Note - the Greenlee chisels are socket firmer chisels and not timber framing chisels. Thanks Big Lou for the correction on that Sold items include, but are not limited to: Narex mallets (both round ones) The K3 The Greenlee chisels Scorp Perfect handle screwdrivers No151 Veritas edge plane No271 Original Gage plane

I like that mortise chisel, do you have an online store?

Bunch of very cool finds! Those Knight planes are neat, cool to see them around.

Great video!

Looks like another good haul MJ. Hopefully you will find chuck for that egg beater soon. I have struck out on my searches here. Take care bud Semper Fi.

Looks like another good score.

Another grate video of finds. Being from England I see alot of those European tools. I like Narex tools. I have the No4 plane rare but even more rare is the No3 plane. The only one I've ever seen, is the one I own 😁 brilliant plane's and a very unique design. Different to any other plane. A little like the Veritas or Marples X4. With the sliding frog. If you've not seen one I can send you a picture. I know I still haven't sent you pictures of my gunmetal router planes yet. Been busy renovating my house. (Full top to bottom and inside and out renovation) But I have found a little time to make some lovely knobs for the 71 and 71,1/2. Just so I could show them off to you. 🤣

Thanks for sharing all your smarts.

I want that Stanley 4 square hatchet.

You can quickly and easily remove that copper coloring from the overly aggressive wire wheeling with a 5 minute bath in a 50/50 mix of 30% vinegar and 12% hydrogen peroxide. Make sure use gloves and when neutralizing, just dunk the plane in water. Do this outside and wear protection. EDIT: the reason why this happens is when you use a brass coated steel wire wheel that is larger diameter at too high of an RPM. Brass itself is an alloy of copper and zinc; when the brass moves too fast, it generates enough heat and energy to cause de-zincification where the zinc and copper de-alloy. You can use this to your advantage if the goal is to copper-plate something, but to remove it requires vinegar to eat the copper off, followed by some polishing (I use E5 Emery compound). EDIT2: at first the copper from the overly aggressive wire wheeling will appear pink; it will almost appear as though you have turned your plane into a rose gold. It might even be attractive for a spell. But over time the copper turns to cuprite and before you know it, you’ve got an ugly brown mess. Everywhere there was a slight copper hew, now there is brown. To make matters worse, sometimes planes were double-plated; first with copper then with nickel. The reason for this has to do with the sticking ability of one metal to another; nickel does not bond well to steel, so if you have a non-stainless steel that you want to make corrosive resistant, you can first plate it with copper then the nickel bonds well to the copper. Even using a soft steel wire brush by hand can make the copper surface if the nickel is thin from age. In these cases, again, vinegar can help, but so can a buffing wheel. Either way, the solution is to remove the plating. EDIT3: when neutralizing the bath, it will turn from green to blue when you slowly titrate in the baking soda a little at a time until it no longer reacts. Before starting the neutralization process, make sure the bath is in a larger empty container to contain foam over. The blue solution at the end is pH neutral copper acetate. Set this in the sun for 2 weeks and it will grow copper acetate crystals as the liquid evaporates. These can be dumped in the trash; do not handle. Alternatively you can add clay cat litter (not clumping cat litter) to speed the process. Never ever dump copper acetate down a drain as it is toxic to life. If your intent is to grow crystals by dissolving copper into vinegar then evaporating off the liquid, you can grow huge crystals in months but have to keep adding more solution in a jar with a string suspended through the solution. The resulting crystal is also toxic even if held, but can be encased in a medium for safe observation

Enjoyed your video. The only video to touch on the bullnose plane aspect. For myself, the duo rebate plan, is the best plane to have if you can only have a few tools. It's my favourite plane, apart from my homemade planes that utilise a chisel. What is a Rebate? A rebate in woodworking refers to a specific type of joint commonly used when constructing furniture or other wooden structures. Also known as a rabbet or a dado, a rebate is created by cutting out a groove or channel along the edge or face of a piece of timber. This groove allows another piece of wood to fit into it, creating a secure and seamless connection between the two pieces. So, it is the more or less same as the moving fillister. The difference is in the extra depth stop. Off market planes can be bought for a modest prices if you get them complete in the uk. www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?s=Rebate+plane&et_pb_searchform_submit=et_search_proccess&et_pb_include_posts=yes

I am planning to buy Truper 5, It is the only option in my area. I heard that the sole of Truper 5 is some kind of metal? But they write that the best option is cast iron. I don't know which is correct. Does anyone know if the old American Stanleys were cast iron or metal and which are better?

I bought some Veritas blades because the internet told me I could flip the adjuster and it does work on mine. Not sure what I would have done if it didn't work, probably just put it in a drawer to work on later like everything else that has a problem. Actually, it took me a minute to find it just now and it was in a drawer.

Michael -- you talked about using the nicker "i.e. you don't have a No. 46". Is that because the skew blades on the 46 are more meant for cross grain work? Is there a reason that the 46 would have a rosewood face on the fence but the 50 does not?

I've got one of these with all the blades. Bit rusty and not sure how or if to restore before trying to sell it - any advice appreciated 👍

I need something even more basic than this.! Block planes for dummies!

I’m in England. I have a complete and almost mint No.50 (I’m missing the 3/16” blade) but every thing else is in place. I get regular use out of it too!

My Stanley No4 has a high knob, a small wheel, a Typ 12 frog and a V-Logo Iron. I think its a typ 12... But what is better at a Typ 11 then at a Typ 12?

I just got a type 15 plane with a diagonal kneeled adjuster. Would you assume that is just a borrowed part?

Sold so far… (this is not an exhaustive list) Small Stanley pocket level Brass caliper (made in W. Germany) Roached no4 1/2 No4 & no5 Type 17 planes No4 - T10 No2 sole & tote One set of blacksmith tongs One of the 5 1/4s Couple of the no66 beading tools

I was wondering where you got those Stanley SweetHeart stickers, very cool!

Yes, that is a speed indicator.

Free sticker for sticking around. Nice. What would you need for that roached 4 1/2? Is the back of the iron too far gone?

Your videos are interesting, I'm sure I'm not the only one that doesn't know a lot of this stuff, If you ever come across a Record 43-44 let me know even if I got into a Stanley 45 I'd only need 2 of the smallest irons for making box grooves.

Whattttt??? Stickers! Can go with the ‘Just Plane Wellness’ !

My mom just gave me my Grampy’s planes last night! There’s a no 7 , corrugated sole that was my great grandfather’s. Thanks again for your videos ! They’ll be users even though they are from initial examination, in great shape !

To the end! I have to come by and see that core box plane.

Frankie you're famous LOL!! 😂❤

That MF No 22 was straight-up tool porn material. 😮

Is the tote on a No 112 interchangeable with a No 4? My 112 has a tote that's completely broke in half. 😢

i am looking for a #5 type 11 cap and iron in decent shape. And yes I watched the video all the way through the end.

I loved the video actually all your videos. I could use some #1 parts maybe the soul or at least the frog screws.

Nice haul!!!!! I now have to make a trip up north! Thanks for the video and of course the knowledge!!!!!

I always watch to the end!