That sounds like a job for a good machinist, depending on how much of the screw is still sticking out and how much corrosion may be present. If it’s a common sole, it might be easier to replace it. 😬 What size and type of plane is it?
Very cool. I have found AN960-10 (thick) and AN960-10L (thin) are the perfect OD for tote and knob shimming but they need a step up of ID with a Uni-Bit. I normally do a batch once set up to ream them.
On the wartime steel tote/knob bolts, there’s usually also a spacer down in the tote, from what I’ve observed. It doesn’t come out easily, but it’s usually there.
@@justplanefun I believe so. I’ve seen several wartime era planes that were this way. A #2 and 605. It looks like Stanley channeled their inner Pexto during those years, because that’s what they used.
I appreciate the feedback. No new camera yet but I did change the angle / POV fairly significantly. I like the new view and I think it is giving it a better effect.
@@GJHeckman I can’t sell just the screw and nut as I have them advertised with the tote. If it sells and the buyer doesn’t need the screw, I’ll let you know
@@justplanefun The southern tip of NJ. Cape May, NJ and the local beach towns are some of the most beautiful places to vacation in the country. I’d recommend an early season June trip or September trip post Labor Day to avoid crowds. Cops, boardwalks, and there’s even some nature/birdwatching/hiking type stuff in the area as well. We have it all!
@@justplanefun I have been meaning to tell you about a potential type 10 I got from an old machinist who is no longer with us. The sole is lettered similar to a Millers Falls, with the word damaged. Ever heard of it?
I’m self-taught! Now making the content I wish had been available when I was first starting out. No Medicare option for billing - I’m terribly sorry. 😅
Nice work on the tote screws. My 100th problem is the broken tote end in the body. That's a whole other video!
That sounds like a job for a good machinist, depending on how much of the screw is still sticking out and how much corrosion may be present.
If it’s a common sole, it might be easier to replace it. 😬 What size and type of plane is it?
Nice post Michael…very informative once again!
Excellent. I appreciate the positive feedback
Just in time for what I need, and with some knowledge. Thank you.
Message me anytime
Great to know youve got us all covered
You know it!
Great info! Might have to order one of those tap and die sets.
We can definitely get you set up
Very cool. I have found AN960-10 (thick) and AN960-10L (thin) are the perfect OD for tote and knob shimming but they need a step up of ID with a Uni-Bit. I normally do a batch once set up to ream them.
Got a Stanely made Seigley #5-1/2. What kind of tote scew barrel nut did original come with? Same as STAN-Baily's? Your site is a great resource!
Shoot me some pics. If you’re on Facebook, find me there at Just Plane Fun - the parts division
Otherwise, email me at jplanefun@gmail.com
On the wartime steel tote/knob bolts, there’s usually also a spacer down in the tote, from what I’ve observed. It doesn’t come out easily, but it’s usually there.
I wonder if that’s something Stanley did to convert what would have been a conventional tote into one that would take a steel screw. 🤔
@@justplanefun I believe so. I’ve seen several wartime era planes that were this way. A #2 and 605. It looks like Stanley channeled their inner Pexto during those years, because that’s what they used.
Very nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
Video is getting sharper. New camera?
I appreciate the feedback. No new camera yet but I did change the angle / POV fairly significantly. I like the new view and I think it is giving it a better effect.
Do you carry a Stanley No. 1 tote screw and barrel nut. Thanks.
I believe I’m sold out of those at the moment. I have a complete No1 tote that comes with the screw and brass barrel nut
@@justplanefun How much and how do I proceed? Sorry I just need the knob
stud and barrel. Thanks
@@GJHeckman I can’t sell just the screw and nut as I have them advertised with the tote. If it sells and the buyer doesn’t need the screw, I’ll let you know
Thanks for the info very helpful. What is your fix for a loose tote that is tighten all the way down but still moves side to side?
I’m guessing this is on a no4 or a no3?
@@justplanefun yes it is a no 4
99 problems… I knew I liked your personality, but dang! I am certain we’d get along over a carbonated beverage or two.
My wife loves to travel. Someday we’re gonna hit the road and see the sights. Where are you located?
@@justplanefun The southern tip of NJ. Cape May, NJ and the local beach towns are some of the most beautiful places to vacation in the country. I’d recommend an early season June trip or September trip post Labor Day to avoid crowds. Cops, boardwalks, and there’s even some nature/birdwatching/hiking type stuff in the area as well. We have it all!
@@justplanefun I have been meaning to tell you about a potential type 10 I got from an old machinist who is no longer with us.
The sole is lettered similar to a Millers Falls, with the word damaged. Ever heard of it?
Where did you receive your Doctorate In Planology MJ? Do you accept Medicare? I’m 71…😂
I’m self-taught! Now making the content I wish had been available when I was first starting out.
No Medicare option for billing - I’m terribly sorry. 😅
Hopefully everyone forgives you for saying forgiving so many times (8?). Forgive me if I miscounted.
🤣🤣 I got on a roll and couldn’t stop! But no worries, I’ve forgiven myself 😅