Dulux Diamond Satinwood & Benjamin Moore ScuffX - scratch test
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Dulux Diamond Satinwood & Benjamin Moore ScuffX are tuff paints, so after a good two weeks allowing them to cure, lets see how they stand up with the extreme coin and key scratch test.
This is going abit over the tp on trying to scratch them, also a paint is only as good as the paint it's been put over.
But that said, how does Dulux Diamond Satinwood & Benjamin Moore ScuffX hold up.
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Not used scuff x. However it seems to be very popular with some guys on the forums. I do , as I ve said, use diamond. I ve been back to jobs I’ve used it on and it’s been doing well. Standing up to typical family wear and tear. That’s the best way for us to judge how a paint performs. To go back to a property and actually see how it’s performing. Example. Tikkurila empire and Tikkurila Helmi. I ve painted kitchen cabinets in both. I ve been back to both houses two and three years after they have been taking daily family life. Empire ( oil based ) has definitely held up better. I know WB is quicker drying, faster drying ( handy on multi trade sites ! ) no smell and whites ( full WB ) stay white. However. Oil paints two coats over previously painted. Flow and level better, better to the touch, harder wearing . IMO. WB three coats. That’s a huge time and cost difference your doing a large HSL for example. Oil paint five litres cheaper than a 2.5 of WB that fair to say. Pros and cons. I mostly use oil still. Doing two rooms in a house. Using jonos acrylic eggshell in brilliant white in one room ( customer supplied ) on all woodwork. Large sandstone property btw. Using jonos oil eggshell in a green on second room woodwork. Used both today. Finding the white acrylic is very white, no issues or moans there. Used Staalmeester sash and 4 inch Staalmeester roller. Added wee bit floetrol. Not bad. Oil eggshell, same kit to apply. Lovely to apply, much smoother finish. Use oil and convince clients “ not “ to use white could be great compromise lol. This debate will always go on. Sorry never intended to write a novel. Apologies folks.
My own kitchen... Previous original kitchen door finish
Otex Alva grip coat.. then two helmi 30 coats.
4yrs on... Still looks like new... Only wear is on top of the door under sink that has general wear from constant hand touching it opening closing... instead of using the handle.
Oil would have still worn.
Like you say the durability is going to be reasonably constant between the different brands for me it’s the constant opacity on different surfaces and even the same brand of paint can differ from job to job which constantly concerns me, there seem to be quite a lot of factors that affect w/b paints that take some getting used to compared to o/b , I’m probably 90% w/b and persevering with it but do sometimes question myself paint systems and types have never been as complicated .
Using Aqua Guard now on all my jobs. One undercoat two top coats. I had the chance to return to a job a month later done the nail test bullet proof.
have you tried bedec aqua advanced Uc & Satin... wow.
Thanks for the information Phil. Your the best.
I appreciate that!
Hi Phill
I reckon a fair tool for a scratch test would be a debit card. Its less brutal than a coin or key and probably show variances between brands. For me its, a reputable brand, value, opacity and application.
I guess manufacturers need to strike a balance with the formulation.....too hard and it'll crack....too soft and wont stand up to knocks
I used a hybrid ronseal product on some wooden gates about 10 years ago. It was unbelievable. It stayed white and didn't crack and lasted.
It would be good to see you review a left field brand like sandtex and ronseal (gloss or satin)
Great interesting vid, be nice to see Jono's aqua guard, thanks👍
More to come! ;)
Helmi? Everal Aqua?
Yea I guessed there wouldn't be much in it, would be interesting to see the scratch test after using correct primer/undercoat then 2 top coats. I think your right though expecting too much from wb paints
These are two coat systems though.
Oh I didn't realise haha I never used either, that makes it even worse lol
Good to see a scratch test where you do more than tickle it with your finger tips.
This has always been my argument about waterbased vs oil.
Oil will yellow eventually but waterbased will chip off before the oil is yellow enough to be noticeable
I think that's a urban moth TBH.
My house was oil based Crown eggshell... Over the years I've turned it all to waterbase.. satin or eggshell.
Family of four with kids.... Cricket bags
. Golf bags football boots all get dumped down.... I've no wooden chopped.
It's all down to prep.. and also as I said to some one recently... Old houses were all oil based that chopped off... Why's that?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator old oil based isn’t the same as nowadays ie lead. Plus if what I paint in oil based today lasts 200 years it would just prove my point chipped or no. Waterbased would be long gone
@@gdpaintingdecorating5704water based stuff has moved on. They even paint cars in it now.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator is that why they scratch so easy?
@@gdpaintingdecorating5704 LoL that's cus your not washing it correctly lol
I've a video on washing a Tesla you may like lol
Nice one Phil....now that you have some , it would be interesting to see the scuffx on a upvc panel like the others you did, at some point, as its meant to be self underctaingit would be interesting to see the
Will do, great idea :)
great video.... but think you expected a bit much as that was a brutal test... but great to see. Looking forward to the test on the Johnstones Aque Guard..... love to know also if you have found the secret of washing the stuff out of your brushes so you can use them more than a few times... that is the downside for me....... but coverage is superb and so still use it. Hope to see more videos soon unless you are too busy with your Porsche.
Great point! lol
Aqua Guard... in a few weeks... I didn't find washing out a problem with it.
Hi Phil, iv,e heard good things about Caparol Haftprimer, and Caparol PU satin, maybe put them to the test. I used WRX satinwood today, you can buy it direct from them or on Amazon, lovely drop of gear, not sure how hardwearing though.
Waiting for a phone call lol
Haftprimer and Caparol PU Satin are better than the Scuff X but not as good as the Aqua Guard Satin
Interesting, I need to redo most of my woodwork including banisters, play rooms etc. They're going to get some abuse with a 5 year old and 3 month old. You should do tests with biro, sharpie, food, stickers, plasters, dried weetabix, lego and other toys bashing it.. That's what I'm contending with lol. I nearly purchased the Dulux diamond until I watched last week. The same goes for emulsion, I'm currently going for crown clean extreme trade I think. Seems diamond emulsion splits opinions, but can be a bit nasty to apply etc
Crown clean extreme is good. Have you tried optiva5?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator nope, I did learn of it last week though. I thought the formula had changed or it was tricky to get hold of. Perhaps I'll look again
Try doing that same test on a Porsche and I’m certain you would get the same result. A true test would be dragging and banging luggage and zippers across the door. What you did sir would be called vandalism not wear and tear lol. In real life though when used correctly they are both great paints.
Yeah we know .. but ppl love a real good scratch test.
Oh and I tend to prime over my old old based with zinsser Bullseye 123, wonder how that impacts the tests
123 take a good 7+ days to fully cure ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator interesting I tend to paint over 123 the next day usually. Are you suggesting It'd benefit from waiting longer or just that 123+ top coats will take a while to fully cure?
dulux themselves said the diamond satin is more durable than the original solvent satin.
I've used rocktop satin over scuff-x, however it is too shiny and more like a gloss then. Was on skirting and beading around laminate flooring. Aquaguard can't be sprayed though can it?
Scuff marks are not the same as scratching. No paint will take scratching
Now you mention it I'm not sure AG does spray.
Hi Phil, one of my customers wants scruffx for their bannister, is this a good idea to use scruffx?.
I'd go with TouchGard from H&G then. It withstands hand fats etc.
I've a video coming out in a couple of weeks on it.
It's about £56 for 2.5ltrs and will withstand hand traffic.
Google it and ring h&G.. speak with Paul Sheppard there. Next day delivery too
To all professional painters out there, what is the best waterbased paint over oil on woodwork in UK?
Oil isn't the problem......
Over oil paint... clean down, sand dust off etc etc.
I say, put a grip/adhesion primer coat on first (like Zinsser 123 or Otex Akva). Then work from that. Use the correct Uc as the 1st coat, then two top coats of the finish.
Some paints like the Isomat Primer/Uc are an adhesion primer in one.
Great video. What about trying the Crown Trade Fastflow system in satin.
Great suggestion! it's on the list ;) other stuff coming up first over the next month and a bit
Just used that dulux diamond satinwood this week. Its garbage!!! Glad I won it in a raffle at dulux 🤣
1x Undercoat 2x satinwood on a cream ish colour door. Didn't cover!! 3x coats of satinwood I had to give it to make it look solid. Runs easily to.
Glad it's not just me.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
I'm gonna try that Benjamin Moore soon. I've got some pre finished new doors to paint. I'm hoping 1x Undercoat and x2 Benjamin Moore 🙏
ideal.
@@bunabuna9287how did it turn out? I tried diamond satinwood and it was horrible, so thinking of buying Scuff-x for my skirting boards etc
@@Ayajul I didn't end up using it. I used the dulux heritage eggshell. Very good.
The scuffx I've not had anyone say bad things about it. But I've just not used it yet. Price being the reason and customer doesn't want to pay the price. But yeah the diamond satinwood is rubbish
love the vids,
Can you do a Caparol test/review ?
If o can get my hand on some I will do ;(
Best undercoat not fan of there top coats yet
Hi Phil brilliant video again, can you tell the viewers what paint you use in your house, cheers mate
Which one?
lol
16yrs ago.. when I did the hous eup... it was all OIL Crown Satin.
Now working my way through...
Last few years its been Tikkurila Helmi 30. Helmi 10, Intact 40. As they all spray well.
Only got two rooms that are still oringinal Crown Oil Satin
Another great video, I was going to go two coats of scuff x over my now keyed up old gloss wood work at the new house, would I get better wear and tear if I used BM Stix primer? My fear, is when the carpet fitter comes to fit all the new carpets and he bangs his carpet kicker against the skirting boards...
With what you're doing.. an extra grip coat won't hurt.. plus you've given it the best chance going forward.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I have a gallon of stix for the kitchen cupboards, I shall use it on the woodwork,thank you for all the great advice, what would you choice of smooth roller make be for the emulsion on the walls? I was thinking purdy or Hamilton perfection..
how much wall area do you have?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Hi Phil, I have prepped up four rooms, I have done the full maths, measured the walls, checked the paints coverage, the paperwork is at the house, but from memory around 90 Sq meters per coat all smooth walls sanded and holes filled (all previously painted, 3 walls mist coated, no lining paper) small dining room wall, around 14 sq meters per coat, lounge around 30 sq meters, main bedroom around 25 sq meters per coat, 2nd bedroom around 20 sq meters per coat, smooth walls, all in Optiva 5, ceilings around 50 sq meters AR2 paint, they have a swirly pattern, bit deep in places Artex, I was going to use a heavy pile on those, or should I use a medium pile roller? I've got my twist on roller cage (happy to buy a purdy frame if it is needed)
i think it might be the chalk paint phil but if you did this to your porsche it would scratch it
all about the surface you go over ;)
Scuff x is so overrated its unreal. The white is actually grey so of course it covers well, and it's not more durable than any other wb out there as anyone who has done a bit of testing themselves will see. It needs conditioning aswell to apply well really. The 2 coat warriors love it tho out of sheer laziness and saving a coat, when realistically if your doing a proper 3coat wb system you can use much better systems for a fraction of the cost
You make a valid point ;)
I have tested it side by side against Aqua Guard Satin, Isolac Aqua Satin and Caparol PU Satin and I would recommend all 3 of those products above Scuff X
@@chrisgreen5953 yeah I've done a test piece with loads different on aswell. The only thing scuffx seems to beat others on (other than opacity but I'm not counting that as its not even a proper white for starters) is rubber marks. Rubber can't seem to mark it whereas it can others, and if it does comes mark it then it comes straight off. That's the 'proprietary scuff resistant formula' there though no doubt.
Other than that everything else is level if not better than scuff (application, finish, whiteness, durability etc). If you like bumping coats then it's good, if you like doing proper systems it's OK but well overpriced and the fact you can't match colours like FB etc or have a proper black or proper white in it is just stupid.
You’ll probably find all three products have differing cure times so getting consistent durability results can be difficult. Diamond fully cures in 7 days and Scuff-x in 14 days.
@@artisandecor mate my test piece was left for two months lol so don't try the old curing times spiel. It's just overrated face it.
To be honest to me it didn’t look like there was much in it between the two. Almost thought the scuffx was coming off quicker. No matter what you put on there would probably fail with a key/coin.
that's true.
Just watching your Johno’s Aqua Guard video. I use it a lot. Great product. Never used Scuffx though.
@@Racelinekarting there is an UC for the aqua Guard, if it's needed , do youo use it and then two top coat?
I have done on occasion. I tend to use the Johnstones multi surface primer under it if I’m honest. Especially when going over previously painted oil based. I was first recommended that primer about ten years ago when I painted over UPVC for the first time. I recommended against painting it but it was a shop front and the client insisted. The shop was in full sun for a lot of the day and he wanted it black. 5 years down the line it was like I painted it yesterday. Whereas the wood facia was starting to fail in the odd place from the heat. Been sold on that product ever since. Never hear much chatter on forums about it as most people go the Zinsser route.
Great video again mate. What about using a BM primer? Not used one myself and believe there quite expensive too.
Great suggestion! I was told it wasn't needed.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I believe scuff x should be able to go on previously painted woodwork with 2 coats. But for peace of mind think I may start using an etching primer
Yeah, i’d like to see a scratch test on aqua guard. I have it on my newel posts and it hasn’t held up well against hand fats at all. thats just my wifes hands as i dont touch them. 9 months it lasted. So interested to see the scratch test. Scratch test the isomat too 👍
I have had the Aqua Guard on my hand rail and newel post at home for 2 years and 4 and its not budged at all despite having 3 dog collars and leads with metal clasps taken off it and thrown back over it 5 times a day. I would suggest that you have used the aqua satin on yours
@@chrisgreen5953 it was aqua guard.
@@user-vw1jv8ef7b
It's application fault then
@@chrisgreen5953 do me a favour chris and kindly go and f*ck yourself you cheeky c*ck. your continued defensiveness of Johnstone’s because you get a hefty discount is relentless. You embarrass yourself.
@@user-vw1jv8ef7b
The only one who's embarrassing himself is you. If you actually knew what the aqua guard contains then you would know that your claim that hand fats wear it off is not possible. Therefore the only conclusion you can draw is that it is an application fault 😉
Not sure how long you let the Scuff-x cure for. BM recommend a two week cure time.
you watched the video?
a couple of weeks is two weeks. lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I think I need to clean out my ears Phil. Great video series by the way 😀
Good to see the brutality needed to make them fail. I’m pretty impressed to be honest. You always get the odd scuff mark but the real test would be impact damage. Things being banged up against the woodwork is far more relevant I think.
I'm not convinced that a coin/key scratch test is real world. Yes maybe a kiddo would possible do this, but to me a real world test would maybe a hammer to simulate blunt impact damage. Maybe that would simulate the potential chipping we all to often see.
The tapping with the coin is a better test. I know, should have watched to the end! Would it be a better test if you did this after priming? Or what about on new wood?
Gotta watch till the end lol
I need a new wood door ;)
No better than each other really in my little opinion.. #sandlandandcompany
Hi ya, yep... and it's only as good as what you go over... :)
With that test 😂oil would still come off
so just the same ... but oil goes off white.. WB won't... or does it?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I agree haven’t used oil based for over ten years.
I see no need to these days
Are you talking about an elsie
tanner.. spanner?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator well seen you've worked with scottish painters phill
Use another paint that you think won’t scratch off like those two paints……..
Frenchic?
Just oil it
Far more hardwearing
Cost wise no comparison
LoL
Don’t waste your time you don’t make the paint paint is paint …. Any problems with the paint let the customer take it up with the manufacturer not your worry you should know what works and what doesn’t work !!
What dya expect it's paint!! You can scratch concrete and metal with a coin!
It's best to say, look, don't touch lol