Hi Phil after watching your first video with scuffex I went a brought a tin … I was shocked how good it was easily the best flow and coverage for a water based and Iv tried them all .. since then this is all I use on woodwork far superior to other leading brands ..🙌🙌… and always with two fussy blokes mini rollers 😆👍
Hi Phil, I'm one of them semi pro DIYers you are on about. I just done a 3 bed semi plus extensions using the scuff x, fantastic stuff, put it straight over old oil in one or two rooms after a really good key (on recommendation of my supplier) and other where the oil has been a bit iffy put a coat of 123 on first. The only thing that the customer has questioned is that in certain lights it has a bluey grey hue but she loves it anyway. My only gripe is that it doesn't seem the best on your brushes (I also use the arroworthy) so i have to get regularly washing them out, but i guess thats why you guys are the pros and im not. Regarding the cost £108 split over a whole house is neither here or there, considering the dulux diamond trade satin is now £27 for a litre and scuff x knocks it sideways.
So Phil, im an aquaguard user. Yes i put 3 coats on and love it. I know you ve reviewed both but for me if your going to put 3 coats of both scuff x or aquaguard then the latter gets it. Great finish and half the price. Goid vids mate. Keep them coming.
I've found the best mini roller for Scuffx are the old-fashioned, short-pile gloss rollers used for oil-based gloss back in the day. I think they are 100% wool if not mistaken. I've used most of the micro-fibre mini rollers in this paint and it pulls the fibres out which are then left on the painted finish and need re-sanded.
I'm with you on the hinge side, just did a hall, stairs and landing in a 4 bed house with natural slate doors facing the landing, white inside, plus I had changed all the hinges and door furniture to brushed stainless, looked similar to yours when done
Another good video Phil. I’ve been using Benjamin Moore paints for around 8 years now and they certainly have been game changers in our industry. Being old school, I still like to prime first to get that perfect finish. Scuff-X is a bit overkill for normal woodwork unless it’s in a very high traffic area. On walls in commercial spaces it’s brilliant. My preferred paint for woodwork is Aura. The new formulation has Scuff-X added so you get a tough finish with far better opacity than with Scuff-X on its own. This is more evident with colours where you can guarantee it will cover in 2 coats. As for cleaning any edges, you definitely need to wipe immediately with a damp cloth, but like you say, you’ll still have problems with a pitted surface. I alway remind people of the 3 L’s when using water based paints on woodwork…. 1 - LAY IT ON 2 - LAY IT OFF 3 - LEAVE IT ALONE These are just my views and have served me well over the years. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Another good video Phil, particularly like your comments around the contrasting colours around the door frame. The one frustrating thing about Scuff X is it doesn’t come in 1 litre tins which are ideal for where a customer wants only 1 room done (woodwork)
That hinge bit of the frame I’d always paint it in with the room that it’s in. Imagine the doorframe with the door taken off. It makes no sense ever being in with the blue. It’s a different room from the blue side
Officially, as a door opens into a room... (Let's call that room you enter room B) The hinge edge should be painted in the colour of the woodwork/door of the room that you're leaving..( let's call that room A) If the door opens into your room (room B). The latch/lock edge is painted with the door of the room.... The top inner edge and the side that has the catch will be painted the same as the woodwork in that room (room B)
Paint what you can see from the room you're in with the door ajar is the correct way ime. But I'm on the south coast. No idea what you northerners get up to😂😂
Loving the flat renovation. I was given some WRK satin from crown to today. So looking forward to using that product. Stil yet to try scuff x, but loving the isomat eggshell quality paint and finish.
Great video Phil. All these years of decorating & I never realised the hinge edge of the frame (using your video as an example) should also be in blue. I've always painted it white as you can see it from the room with the white side. I thought the whole point was when not in the blue room, you see no blue, if that makes sense!
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I admit I didn't go to college but my sister went years ago & qualified at NVQ L2, we work together. She doesn't remember ever learning that, maybe she was away that day lol!
What i like about scuff x is it’s so easy to use . Drys quick and flows great straight out the tin . Opacity is 100% so usually 1 coat over your undercoat. Ps . Couldn’t u paint the check blue and cut it in a couple millimetre back from the edge ??
On the edge situation, I paint it blue, then tape a fraction in 1/8 - 1/4 inch from the edge which I paint white or other side colour, that way you don't see from other side & don't have a white stripe on the dark side when the doors open, think that makes sense??
When you said about wiping down the creep on the door-stops and latch side with a damp rag, i did think you'll have to catch that straight away! Leave these high acrylic content paints for any longer than a few seconds and they'll go off on you! Have you tried spraying the scuff x yet? Great channel mate, keep it up 👍
you ever had a customer ask if they can pick you up from your house Phil cause you can't get to them when your van broke down day before and they can't wait till its out of the garage
Hi Phil Love your videos. I have a question I’m going over old oil based paint in my house what method would you use to get the best finish ? Many thanks Richard
Have you seen this one yet.. ua-cam.com/video/tSFUSQJF2gw/v-deo.html Prep is key.. then a first coat of something that will act as an adhesion primer UC first. Isomat aqua primer undercoat is also an adhesion coat too.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thank you. Ive used Helmi 10 (by brush) but i really find it quite difficult to get a good finish with it on door frames that have natural light hitting it, as i find unless you lay it off absolutely perfect it doesnt really level that well but for me thats easier said than done with a rapid drying water paint. Do you think the Scuff X would be better in this regard?
£108 for under 4l Phil that want to cover in 1 coat for that price and be as hard as concrete. around 20% of my customers have wanted a breakdown price they want to know how much is going in my pocket and how much is going into their house.
Hmmmmm you know what I'll say to that. You've 20% of your customers you need to get rid of and replace with those not penny pinching and on lemonade budgets. Alarm bells ring when they ask for a split break down on labour and materials. Had it the other week.. new customer/quote.. asked what we paid for paint, as they can buy their own at XYZ price.... We knocked that one on the head.
See I’m not a pain in the arse customer Phil but if you think about it some people like to know what’s going on. If you price a bedroom at for example £600 and someone else comes along and prices for £450 it could be cheaper labour or materials but I don’t think it’s unreasonable to wonder what the rate is if you are hiring a trade and why the difference. Sure there’s enough work for everyone but if you are open with people about why the cost is higher i.e. better quality materials I think that reflects well. If you hide that in one price it’s difficult for your average consumer to know if they are paying over the odds if someone comes along offering a top level price but uses shit paint. A cleaner will have an hourly rate, a solicitor has an hourly rate, a landscape gardener might have a day rate. Why hide it and claim it’s a pain in the arse customer?
The materials being used will be written in the quote and discussed with the customer at the time of viewing the job, you don’t hide what paints are being used, different tradesmen like to use different sundries etc. some customers prefer just a day rate, I don’t mind that sometimes but a quote is a quote. Imagine breaking down every penny being spent where on a five bedroom house, don’t need it.
@@t.dizzle83 the paints may be included but not costs. I just don’t like the idea that people interested in who they hire and invite into their home, what they charge and what the materials cost are dismissed for showing an interest.
Hi Phil after watching your first video with scuffex I went a brought a tin … I was shocked how good it was easily the best flow and coverage for a water based and Iv tried them all .. since then this is all I use on woodwork far superior to other leading brands ..🙌🙌… and always with two fussy blokes mini rollers 😆👍
Hi Phil, I'm one of them semi pro DIYers you are on about.
I just done a 3 bed semi plus extensions using the scuff x, fantastic stuff, put it straight over old oil in one or two rooms after a really good key (on recommendation of my supplier) and other where the oil has been a bit iffy put a coat of 123 on first.
The only thing that the customer has questioned is that in certain lights it has a bluey grey hue but she loves it anyway.
My only gripe is that it doesn't seem the best on your brushes (I also use the arroworthy) so i have to get regularly washing them out, but i guess thats why you guys are the pros and im not.
Regarding the cost £108 split over a whole house is neither here or there, considering the dulux diamond trade satin is now £27 for a litre and scuff x knocks it sideways.
You're talking total sense.
More need to think like that.
Yep.. wash brush regularly ;)
You'll like my other videos coming up
So Phil, im an aquaguard user. Yes i put 3 coats on and love it. I know you ve reviewed both but for me if your going to put 3 coats of both scuff x or aquaguard then the latter gets it. Great finish and half the price.
Goid vids mate. Keep them coming.
I've found the best mini roller for Scuffx are the old-fashioned, short-pile gloss rollers used for oil-based gloss back in the day.
I think they are 100% wool if not mistaken. I've used most of the micro-fibre mini rollers in this paint and it pulls the fibres out which are then left on the painted finish and need re-sanded.
I'm with you on the hinge side, just did a hall, stairs and landing in a 4 bed house with natural slate doors facing the landing, white inside, plus I had changed all the hinges and door furniture to brushed stainless, looked similar to yours when done
Another good video Phil.
I’ve been using Benjamin Moore paints for around 8 years now and they certainly have been game changers in our industry. Being old school, I still like to prime first to get that perfect finish. Scuff-X is a bit overkill for normal woodwork unless it’s in a very high traffic area. On walls in commercial spaces it’s brilliant.
My preferred paint for woodwork is Aura. The new formulation has Scuff-X added so you get a tough finish with far better opacity than with Scuff-X on its own. This is more evident with colours where you can guarantee it will cover in 2 coats.
As for cleaning any edges, you definitely need to wipe immediately with a damp cloth, but like you say, you’ll still have problems with a pitted surface.
I alway remind people of the 3 L’s when using water based paints on woodwork….
1 - LAY IT ON
2 - LAY IT OFF
3 - LEAVE IT ALONE
These are just my views and have served me well over the years.
Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks.... Very true, get it on and leave. So many treat wb like oil and over play with it.
Another good video Phil, particularly like your comments around the contrasting colours around the door frame. The one frustrating thing about Scuff X is it doesn’t come in 1 litre tins which are ideal for where a customer wants only 1 room done (woodwork)
That gets mentioned in an up and coming video about ScuffX . We're thinking the same!
That hinge bit of the frame I’d always paint it in with the room that it’s in. Imagine the doorframe with the door taken off. It makes no sense ever being in with the blue. It’s a different room from the blue side
Officially, as a door opens into a room... (Let's call that room you enter room B) The hinge edge should be painted in the colour of the woodwork/door of the room that you're leaving..( let's call that room A)
If the door opens into your room (room B). The latch/lock edge is painted with the door of the room.... The top inner edge and the side that has the catch will be painted the same as the woodwork in that room (room B)
Paint what you can see from the room you're in with the door ajar is the correct way ime. But I'm on the south coast. No idea what you northerners get up to😂😂
Works good with their extender.
Loving the flat renovation. I was given some WRK satin from crown to today. So looking forward to using that product. Stil yet to try scuff x, but loving the isomat eggshell quality paint and finish.
Great video Phil. All these years of decorating & I never realised the hinge edge of the frame (using your video as an example) should also be in blue. I've always painted it white as you can see it from the room with the white side. I thought the whole point was when not in the blue room, you see no blue, if that makes sense!
LoL...... All stuff you learn at college lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I admit I didn't go to college but my sister went years ago & qualified at NVQ L2, we work together. She doesn't remember ever learning that, maybe she was away that day lol!
What i like about scuff x is it’s so easy to use . Drys quick and flows great straight out the tin . Opacity is 100% so usually 1 coat over your undercoat. Ps . Couldn’t u paint the check blue and cut it in a couple millimetre back from the edge ??
6 & two 3s Phil regarding hinge face. I'd oaint it blue but pull it in 3 Mill. Either ebay it looks right pal. Good work
just bad hanging of the door with it not sitting well in the fame, annoying.
On the edge situation, I paint it blue, then tape a fraction in 1/8 - 1/4 inch from the edge which I paint white or other side colour, that way you don't see from other side & don't have a white stripe on the dark side when the doors open, think that makes sense??
I do that too mate. Great to hear someone else does. I tend to only do it on the strong colour changes though such as Phil did here. 👍
When you said about wiping down the creep on the door-stops and latch side with a damp rag, i did think you'll have to catch that straight away! Leave these high acrylic content paints for any longer than a few seconds and they'll go off on you! Have you tried spraying the scuff x yet? Great channel mate, keep it up 👍
well, the problem was more the Velspar blue, its so dry and rough to the touch. I think any other interior paint a damp cloth would have been fine.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator future video there mate! 🤣
you ever had a customer ask if they can pick you up from your house Phil cause you can't get to them when your van broke down day before and they can't wait till its out of the garage
Nope, why?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator cause it happened to me today
Lovely product lovely finish but it doesn't go straight onto old oil gloss without undercoat like a lot of people say
It's why I go with a grip primer over surfaces I have doubt with.
Hi Phil
Love your videos.
I have a question I’m going over old oil based paint in my house what method would you use to get the best finish ? Many thanks Richard
Have you seen this one yet.. ua-cam.com/video/tSFUSQJF2gw/v-deo.html
Prep is key.. then a first coat of something that will act as an adhesion primer UC first.
Isomat aqua primer undercoat is also an adhesion coat too.
Thank you that helps I was going to use bullseye 123 the Johnstone Aqua undercoat then finish with Aqua guard 😊
Can it be painted over previous oil with out a primer, just a key and two coats?
If you want. :)
Hi Phil would you recommend this in eggshell also for trim?
Personally I much prefer the satin finish.
But it is personal preference.
Eggshell will be just as good. A flatter finish shows less defects.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thank you. Ive used Helmi 10 (by brush) but i really find it quite difficult to get a good finish with it on door frames that have natural light hitting it, as i find unless you lay it off absolutely perfect it doesnt really level that well but for me thats easier said than done with a rapid drying water paint. Do you think the Scuff X would be better in this regard?
@@Strong1rdJosh yes.
Also look at Isomat... But remember that needs 5-10% water. 5% I find enough
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks Phil much appreciated
£108 for under 4l Phil that want to cover in 1 coat for that price and be as hard as concrete. around 20% of my customers have wanted a breakdown price they want to know how much is going in my pocket and how much is going into their house.
Hmmmmm you know what I'll say to that. You've 20% of your customers you need to get rid of and replace with those not penny pinching and on lemonade budgets.
Alarm bells ring when they ask for a split break down on labour and materials.
Had it the other week.. new customer/quote.. asked what we paid for paint, as they can buy their own at XYZ price....
We knocked that one on the head.
Agree with Phil on this one, never really have customers ask that and if they were to I’m not interested, too much work around to bother with that.
See I’m not a pain in the arse customer Phil but if you think about it some people like to know what’s going on. If you price a bedroom at for example £600 and someone else comes along and prices for £450 it could be cheaper labour or materials but I don’t think it’s unreasonable to wonder what the rate is if you are hiring a trade and why the difference. Sure there’s enough work for everyone but if you are open with people about why the cost is higher i.e. better quality materials I think that reflects well. If you hide that in one price it’s difficult for your average consumer to know if they are paying over the odds if someone comes along offering a top level price but uses shit paint. A cleaner will have an hourly rate, a solicitor has an hourly rate, a landscape gardener might have a day rate. Why hide it and claim it’s a pain in the arse customer?
The materials being used will be written in the quote and discussed with the customer at the time of viewing the job, you don’t hide what paints are being used, different tradesmen like to use different sundries etc. some customers prefer just a day rate, I don’t mind that sometimes but a quote is a quote. Imagine breaking down every penny being spent where on a five bedroom house, don’t need it.
@@t.dizzle83 the paints may be included but not costs. I just don’t like the idea that people interested in who they hire and invite into their home, what they charge and what the materials cost are dismissed for showing an interest.
Always show the customers what materials I'm using, but never show the cost.
Got this for £64 from Brewers, won’t buy anything else.
I disagree, hinge side should be blue! Use frogs tape!
What about where the frame isn't fitted well and you see a blue line off and on?