Відео

Why not just use a whetstone ? Just curious.

Best way to remove the floor pan?

hello hows clanger109 getting on not seen any videos for six months

Im pretty sure thats gonna be a precision lathe 😂😂

Excellent. Ive seen scraping on a flat surface but never on a cyclical one

I love the colour of the block

I have no doubt that a lot of Experts have learned from your excellent video. Thanks.

can you suggest alternative paints?

DSG the lathe they want to be .

No videos lately? Everything okay?

My man, you put a lot of effort into this video. Many thanks from everyone out here. Most babbitt repair is needed for countershafts or whatever. I'm glad you took the time to do one on a lathe headstock; quite different. Thanks!!!

I tàķe my hat of to you mate

Buy Mig mate 37 years ìn trade

While I admire your work and think it's of excellent quality the idea that using any original surface as a true reference is not wise. As a drafter designer I can assure you that the machining tolerances on that machine were never tighter than +- .002. It would have been cost prohibitive to call for anything tighter than that and would never ever been called out. Good luck with your efforts and for your own piece of mind it will be far better than it ever was when produced! Your lathe will be super accurate compared to original!

Hey mate, Did you account for bar sag in the horizontal plain?

Nice!

Hi, 4 years later, I am pleased found your work > I have an prewar MG where the wm bearing is oil fed from the bottom. Rebuilding it is 'stuck', wil not turn and after measuring, it needs scraping.... The engine was not 'running' when I got the car, no history known... only 'barned' for more than 35+ years... and a crank 'possibly reground in its life'... as was smaller than factory dimensions.... Thanks for your upload, if you still see this...

Ive been using shapers since i was 16 (now 47)… the Elliott 10M is a banging machine, i have one & there an unstoppable lil’ beast

Just rewatching this as now working on cross slide myself. Really useful yet again

The mysterious green bracket mounted on the bulkhead is the anchor point for the Bowden cable clevis on the 2.25 litre diesel cable (as opposed to second rod) operated throttle. Trunnion in the lever of the cross shaft then operates on cable shelf. Similar arrangement at injection pump with the Bowden cable clevis anchored to a bracket secured off 2 of the pump mounting studs. I'm sure your improvisation will achieve the desired result!

Great video. Does anyone know where I can get straight edges here in the UK?

scraping spindles... whoa, all I know and hear about is about scraping surface plates and straight planes.

too much talking, then only a view of your head for the actual scraping part.

Amazing work!

By far the best scrapping video on UA-cam. I’m in middle of a reciprocating saw conversion to help me power scrape. I’ll post on my channel soon. This helps a lot. Thanks for taking time to make the video.

Traduire en Francais.Mercie

Thank you

Looking good, I love the colour of the Landie! With your wiring, have you not got a Haynes manual for the series 3 ? The wiring diagram is in there and it gives all the colours of the wires. You can identify everything from that. Yes the red/ white cables are your sidelight nd illumination. I'm not sure if you had it on yours but my 1978 series 3 109" had a switch that turned off the dash illumination I think yours has a rheostat to vary the brightness? I think the one bulb holder you were looking at that has a whole glass bulb like a sidelight push in bulb is for the ignition/ charge light from the alternator. I hope that helps.

Coming along! Did you ever have a video discussing painting? Primer, finish, hardeners, accelrators, and how you protected your lungs?

On the wiper switch pretty sure the plunge is to operate the washer pump and the other switch is for a vehicle with no washer only wipers.

Look up plastic welding and also superglue and bi-carb fixing videos for hints. Mike at Britannica Restorations can supply wiring diagrams so you can make sense of colours. 👍🏻🙏🦘

Great videos. Love watching the work on this Land Rover. Happy New Year. Marc from Australia 🇦🇺

My memory says: Those door cill plates had smal "L" shaped l return plates underneath for the 2 bolts (into bulkhead) , this would raise them up at the front! HTH

Jeez some amazing progress made on this Mat, although teasing the poor lass while she's doing you a favour while not exactly being sensible is exactly what us dads do 🤣🤣 Really pleased that you go the sill problem sorted out to your satisfaction mate, that was a sickener to watch and I can't even imagine what it felt like for you, but its all sorted now and its onwards and upwards into the confusing world of wires and Lucas electrics but hopefully not annoying the angry pixie gods who live in the cables enough to let their anger smoke escape 😉 All the best for the bells, stay safe and we'll see you in the New Year 🥃🥃

Great job on the binnacle. All the best.

That little dial icon…. I think it’s to signify “dash lights”…🤔 Also I looked at GPS speedo’s for my camper, motorbike speedometers are round but when fitted inside and behind a dash, I got the impression they will need a square block/antenna with a wire link , sticking to the windscreen somewhere distracting and obvious… but I didn’t pursue after seeing all the trip-up points waiting like an Indiana cave trip but without a leading lady… 😳

Try fixing that broken hole with superglue and baking soda use some old fashioned masking. tape first put some glue then through the baking soda then again some glue then file. Evapo rust?

Mat, that young lady did a marvelous job. She might throw paint at you if you keep bugging her while she works. The results of the whole thing are fantastic.

Purely a guess... but the mystery indicator lamp between the guage clusters seems it should be the high beam indicator. Great progress.

The wiring is the slightly daunting bit. I got help from an electrician in the end and the binacal miraculously looks brand new.

I just finished a frame off nut and bolt restoration of an ‘81 SIII and I restored my instruments. Watching your video brought back some and bad memories. Great job recording your experience. Love your videos. Also, beautiful place you have for walks!!!

I didn't realise the binnacles i sent had corrosion! I can only apologise! Though i never removed the glass and with the accumulated crud and the bezel still in place, it was very difficult to see, though as you say, miles better than what you started with, and the finished result is brilliant, you should be proud!

Hello Mat. I am not a big fan of Christmas either. Your video has brightened my day. Great progress you have made. Showing your usual perseverance in all things. Great job with the binnacle and instruments. Well done Amelie with the painting. Things are really coming together now. Happy New Year to you when it arrives. 2024 should see you driving Clanger.

Looking good mate! The “button”/ badge with the speedo looking face is the label for the instrument gauge lights. As for rust removal, I go with a product called naval jelly , it also works great to brighten up galvanizing.

Cracking work on the binnacle , looks really good Mat!! Phil

Mat, I watched Max Ironthumpers last upload re electrics on 'Kermit'... might be some useful information contained therein..

Great...Just in the nick of time. There's nothing on the box better...😃👍🤣

A bronze bearing in a lathe is inherently quite similar to a journal bearing in a car`s engine, supporting the crankshaft... The major difference is that the journal bearing in an engine has an oil pump plumbed to it, well, not exactly, but the oil does travel from the pump and gets to the bearing, so you get the point... The oil here is under pressure and force fed into the tolerance, resulting in a hydraulic film that as you said, should be the only bearing for the crank - the j. bearing and crank should never have any contact between them, and the only real reason why a perfectly made and maintained engine wears the bearings out is the cold starts where the oil film has drained and the crank rests upon the metal bearing for a short while as the pressure sends the oil where it needs to be... It`s almost the same principle as with an air bearing spindle, but using a much more viscous fluid than air to provide for greater support of higher radial forces on the shaft... Speaking of this, i would check and lap the spindle bearing areas round, if the journal bearings are worn, they are worn due to contact with the spindle shaft, while the bearing is softer than the spindle, the spindle wears aswell, and if you are match scraping to a worn shaft, you could induce trouble... Nothing that won`t wear in, but nothing good at any rate if we are talking precision restoration... All the best and kind regards! Steuss

About shims John Deere recommends pushing shims in snug to shaft so you don't lose oil pressure

That dent on alignment pin could mean it was loose so hit with hammer to tighten it up