Clanger109 200 tdi Turbo Installation (almost)

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  • Опубліковано 5 бер 2023
  • Addressing a number of the commens from the last video about the prop shafts vs Landrover Workshop Manual etc. Installing the rebuilt Garratt Turbo creating some problems to be resolved later :-) an update on the magic smoke release from the my chinese deisel heater...

КОМЕНТАРІ • 29

  • @maximusironthumper
    @maximusironthumper Рік тому +2

    I'm about to sort my turbo this week, so jolly interesting to see your turbo and manifold to compare to my setup. The 300 manifold makes things easier I reckon but I'm sure there will still be plenty of faffing about!

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому

      It remains to be seen if I can sort the pipework out Max' I used what I had rather than source a new manifold - I may come to regret it. All the best Mat

  • @Rosiesgrandad
    @Rosiesgrandad Рік тому +2

    Best to clock the turbo compressor housing to make hose fitting easier, it does require re-drilling and tapping the two M6 holes for the wastegate actuator though. Very doable for a man of your capabilities. If you don't do it, you will probably be looking at cutting the inner wing away to clear the hose. (Sorry, just saw your disclaimer at the end, ignore my message).

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому +1

      Can’t believe I went through the day to the end feeling chuffed I’d got it all together only to then think about the connections. I’m dangerous left alone 🤣

    • @Rosiesgrandad
      @Rosiesgrandad Рік тому +2

      @@lookcreations Been there, done that, many times. BTW, you don't have to take the whole turrbo off to clock the housing, the compressor housing can be taken off by releasing the circlip and removing it. It isn't the easiest job, especially working alone, but it is achievable.

  • @carlwilson1772
    @carlwilson1772 Рік тому

    Hello Mat, I was really pleased to see a notification of yours today. I enjoyed the film very much. Well persevered with fitting the Turbo. Clanger is really looking the part now. What a difference. Shame about your heater. I think one of them diesel heaters is going to cause a fire one of these days. Thanks for a brilliant video.

  • @midgoog2
    @midgoog2 Рік тому +1

    The heaters are designed for a steady state power source.
    The battery charger has unsmoothed pulsed output which the circuit board is not setup to handle Matt.
    Eric

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому

      I had hoped the battery would smooth things out. Maybe the 'in car' set up they are designed for results in a different charge set up from the alternator /battery/heater ? I might take a look for a suitable 10Amp power supply - just not sure how to set the battery up as backup supply for an emergency shutdown in the event of power cut.

  • @MattysWorkshop
    @MattysWorkshop Рік тому +1

    Gday, it’s starting to come together now mate, job done well, cheers

  • @kimber1958
    @kimber1958 Рік тому +1

    COMING ALONG NICELY,

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому

      bit of forward and then back but its progress of a sort !

  • @bostedtap8399
    @bostedtap8399 Рік тому

    Ref propellor shafts/Hookes joints, it's my understanding that yoke pins need to be inline between each common shaft end, this is to prevent the axial movement ( in and out) caused by the Hookes joint when rotating, due to variable Velocity. They are not very smooth in operation when compared to the modern Constant Velocity joint (CV).
    No doubt, there's a better explanation available.
    Engine looks great to work with no body work 👌 👏.
    Onwards and upwards.
    Thanks for sharing.

    • @carlwilson1772
      @carlwilson1772 Рік тому +1

      You are right about the Hookes Joint.

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому

      Having read quite a bit on line now following Carls comments last video and then a couple of others, its clear there are good reasons for mounting the yokes in line. What I cant find is why Landrover state out ofline for the front (on the later models). I will be removing the front shafts to reverse the installation - while at it I m going to check again for alignment marks and see what remains.

    • @bostedtap8399
      @bostedtap8399 Рік тому

      @@lookcreations Hi Mat, when I was an apprentice, ( Machine Tool / resistance welding machines), and my inside leg measurement was in the same parish as my waist, I was tasked with correcting some prop shafts that were causing issues with uneven speed transmission. This was new to me, trying different spline engagement didn't align them, so I think it was case of re drilling holes on the flanges ( not sure, ref long time ago).
      Interesting to hear further investigation on Land Rovers logic, but as long as 2 pins are in line within the opposing joint, I think its fine, not sure what the accuracy required is, even though I commissioned rotary friction welding machines having two opposing synchronised chucks that welded both steel and aluminium propshafts.
      Have a great week.
      Regards John

    • @bcbloc02
      @bcbloc02 Рік тому +2

      First time I have seen a manufacturer recommend the ujoints be out of phase. Maybe it was so it would remind you it was in 4wd if you got on the road. LOL

  • @zephyrold2478
    @zephyrold2478 Рік тому

    Hi Mat Considering how hard it is to get the turbo supply and return lines of , maybe it would be a good idea to pressure test them for leaks before you get any further, know it is a bit to late saying.

  • @HeinerStorchennest1
    @HeinerStorchennest1 Рік тому

    Wouldn't you mind dropping a line on the Garrett's spec no./code, pls. This 3-stud exhaust flange is more common and easier for fiddling out a tough connection to the downpipe. We have the 5-stud version and have to modify the casted- tube in our LHD S3 200TDi ( ex Discovery). We put the turbo on top( like the 2.5 Turbo up to 1989?)

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому

      I will see what codes are on it. The original ID tag has gone the plate shows WF 2T98A 465175-1 ETC 7461 Garret

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому

      Barratt Part number 465175

  • @philhermetic
    @philhermetic Рік тому

    A tight fit, but it's in!! Just seen a post about the diesel heater pcb's at £12 a pop, was it you?
    Phil

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  Рік тому +1

      They are inexpensive - but you have to get the card matched to the digital display for the heater size - or configure it . The supplier is sending me a replacement card - hope it fires up straight off !

    • @philhermetic
      @philhermetic Рік тому

      @@lookcreations pcb’s are the bane of my life! I am after one for the wifes steam cleaner, i dropped it whilst descaling it and it flashed over, the makers dont even answer my emails

  • @dazp6002
    @dazp6002 10 місяців тому

    Hi, my series 2 is fitted with a 200td engine (no turbo), i'd like to add a turbo, what manifold have you used? Do the 300 TDI manifolds fit? Thanks

    • @lookcreations
      @lookcreations  9 місяців тому

      Mines off a disco- the turbo requires a minor mod (see earlier vid), and the exhaust is from Steve Parker (very good set up). I believe the defender manifold is ideal, then the 300 manifold and mine the disco 200 requires most mods.

    • @dazp6002
      @dazp6002 9 місяців тому +1

      @@lookcreations Thanks, I’ve subscribed and just watching the rest of your build. My series has the disco 200tdi manifold so I’ll stick with that, just need to locate a suitable turbo now 👍