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@@mikeyankofsky8003 No idea these days? Prices have changed so much would not even know where to begin. I have been buying tools for over 30 years. Priceless to me for the enjoyment I get from them. Thanks for the question.

@@madjack956 Nice, congrats! Hope yours works well for you. Mine has been great.

@@andrewmattson3299 Good recommendation! Keep is simple and easy. I like it. Thanks for the comment.

@user-tz5bb7cp8b - Yes, appreciate the feedback. Have learned a lot since posting this video. Used it the way my Uncle had, but have learned about gravers since then. Amazing skills those craftsmen had to use them and make the parts they did. Thanks for the comment.

@@Wild_Continental Thanks! Appreciate the feedback and the comment.

@@poolsicario5882 www.zoro.com usually has a good selection. Thanks for the question.

@13abelmendoza - I can't speak to wire colors since that can vary for any installation. For my install I only had to deal with zone wires and the common wire. Some thoughts, are you may have more than one valve and could have more than one common wire? You may need to power on a pump and one of those wires could go to the Pump connection on the timer, or you may have some other accessory powered and need to attach one of those to the 24v connection on the timer? If you are replacing on older unit, you will likely need to see what those wires went to on the old one. If you are starting from scratch, it may take some wire tracing to sort that out. Sorry I can't offer more help than that All the best getting it sorted.

@@mindfulrifleman7198 sure, just took some. Go to my website, hit the contact me form and send me an email and I will send them to you when I get in from the shop this afternoon - www.BladesIIB.com

@@BladesIIB i just sent you my email address on your website.

@@phenylhydride Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Appreciate the comment.

@@freemarket913 Thanks! Appreciate the comment.

@@marceloiannini8199 Glad you enjoyed it. Appreciate the comment. Not sure it is a genius idea but it works well for me. The magnet backed dial does not stick great on the rounded surface. I made a collar for the tail stock so I can put the dial on the flat top of the tail stock and read off the collar and that works much better. You can check that video out here to see what I mean. ua-cam.com/video/iQfGHEMSYnI/v-deo.htmlsi=jrh2OMavZ659y16e.

@rmartinjr420 - Sounds like could be a faulty unit? Hopefully you can swap it where purchased? Have not had that issue so I don't have any insight for you there.

@@BladesIIB thanks for the reply. I actually figured it out, the power plug wasn’t seated right into the board.

@@rmartinjr420 Glad to hear it! Thanks for the update.

@thegraphixfoindry1681 - I am using a 50a 220 outlet that was already there for a welder plug. Your VFD should list what it needs? Bottom line, I have never popped my 50a breaker in the 3 or 4 years running the lathe. Good luck with your install. Thanks for the question.

@timkoss1029 - Thanks for the clarification about the "Functionality" to manually program, vs. the "Instructions" to actually be able to do it. And yes, I have seen a lot of comments about their customers service. Appreciate your comment. To me the real power of this unit is the wi-fi, no need for an additional weather station since it reads online and I love the app. If not using those features, I am sure there are a lot of other options out there.

@@BladesIIB it would take about 15 minutes for an intern to compose a comprehensible set of instructions to manually program the B-hyve with out the app.

@@timkoss1029 Sounds good, maybe Orbit will get the memo and make that happen. 🙂

@timkoss1029 - Guess I was lucky with my WiFi reaching. Good to know it does not have any manual options. Thanks for the comment.

@ypaulbrown - Thanks for the comment and the feedback. Glad you liked the video.

@Mr.CubicFrame - Thanks for the comment. Glad it was helpful and good luck with your welding. I need to get more practice in myself.

@Got2no - Glad it was helpful. Appreciate the comment.

@mihailfelixdumitresc - Sure, on the receipt they sent with it they have P5963067 Motor 3/4HP 110V/220V 1-PH. Hope that helps, thanks for the question.

@@BladesIIB Thanks a lot ! I appreciate it ! 👍👍

@alvarh9398 - yes, I know not a wood lathe. That is how my Uncle used it so that was my demo in the video but I have learned better now.

@RMOR_KNIVES - Appreciate the offer. Should be all set. Have been using it a while now and it is working great. Thanks!

@piccilos - Thanks!

@kimmoj2570 - Thanks for the comment. It is much more trimmed back now. 😅

@RustyInventions-wz6ir - Thanks for the comment😎. Have definitely been happy with it so far.

@jasonalper7898 - Awesome, glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment.

@Chris-ut5ih - Thanks for the questions. If the hole/bore is large enough you can make adjustments in the hole. Just be sure the mic is angled enough to allow an adjustment without wedging and t in the hole. For your second question I will do my best to answer what I think you are asking. There is only one drag you are feeling for and only 1 number you are trying to get to. The back and forth as you stand the mic up in the bore is to ensure you are measuring the center and largest part of the bore. You just keep feeling for the edges until you are sure you have the center then get it where the mic passes through the center with just enough “feel” that you know you made contact. Then you measure that with a calibrated mic and get the same “feel” to see the correct size. You can also calibrate your inside mic to read directly but I find this just takes longer each time you change the barrel on your inside mic and I prefer to just use an outside mic for the actual size.

Only ask as I'm in processes now lol I've got the machine going but getting stuck with the ground where do you ground the 3phase ground ?

@AshLongie - I wanted to keep as much of the built in safety features of the lathe as I could. So preventing accidental start up if a switch left on, the kill button on the front etc. All still work with this configuration. I followed the advice of an expert and went with what I they recommended for this type of build. I know he does a full build out pulling all the wiring from the lathe and goes direct to the VFD but I believe he still uses contractors to add in some safety protocols. I don't have the expertise to give you a better answer than that. You may want to get on the Hobby Machinist forum and pose the question to user mksj.

@AshLongie - I am not an electrician, but on mine, the VFD has a ground that goes to my ground bus/bar. The motor wire has a shielding that is grounded as well at both ends. May need to consult an electrician if your set up is not matching up with that?

@@BladesIIB myn is a Chinese vfd lol has uvw and p- the instructions are so bad I'm not sure what the p- does

@@AshLongie Interesting. Not sure how it compares but here is the nomenclature on mine. Mine was pretty clear with L1-L3 for the inputs either single or 3phase in - also labeled R S and T (R/L1 etc.). And T1-T3 for the output to the motor, also labeled U V and W (U/T1 etc.). So the UVW on yours if the same should be your 3phase out to the motor. I don’t have P- but I have PD/+1 and P/+ that are connected with a jumper. N/- that I don’t use and my brake resistor is connected to P+ and RB. Then I have two clearly marked G for ground with the ground symbol. So based on that, I don’t think P is your ground. Really sounds like you may need to consult an expert familiar with that VFD if the instructions are that poorly written?

@ianeastell3242 -- I think they have changed the hinges. Just tried this and it did not make any difference. I think I have seen hinges that have a tab over or a bump out that creates a stop point, but these ones are smooth and closes the same either direction. I have to stick with keeping the lock in place. Thanks for the comment.

@richardmills5450 - Appreciate the feedback on the videos and apologies for not covering more detail on the boring bar and insert. This is actually a lefthand boring bar with a left hand threading insert to go away from the chuck in reverse. Still cutting a right hand thread but running in reverse you need a left hand insert to get it all going the right direction, relief on the correct side etc. Hope that makes sense, thanks for the question.

@timkoss1029 - Sounds like an interesting story behind that comment. Hope you got yours all sorted out. Thanks for the comment.

@richardmills5450 - Thanks for the comment. Hope you pulled out some ideas you can use.

@shannonkai1540 - I make no claims to be a SAAB expert, and I am not trying to mislead anyone. Based on your expertise, what would be a more appropriate title?

@SavageEuge - Thanks for the comment and I appreciate the feedback. I think either dresser can be used as a stand alone tool and both are not required. Based on that I think either can be first? I just find the diamond removes material faster with less pressure and more control for flattening/squaring and the star gives a better more open finish for better tool grinding. Bottom line go with what works best for you. Cheers.

@user-ix5qy7um6o - Yes, the sound is pretty cool from this one. I don’t have much experience with them so nothing to compare it too. Never thought of them as a white noise generator? Interesting. Thanks for the comment.

@brad7141 - appreciate the comment and the insight. Thanks.

@reidnix - Bummer, maybe you got a bad one. I am sure they come with some kind of warranty? Mine is a few years old and still working great.

@@BladesIIB lol...i was pissed. still nothing works. i have new pump and new orbit manifold. pump wont turn on, then does not prime. maybe i replace the pipe back valve that is 100 ft away. what is the definition of prime? water in the pump and pvc pipe... will let you know...thanx

@@reidnix I get it. Definitely frustrating when new stuff does not work like it is supposed to. All the best. Hope you get it running.

@@BladesIIB my new pump will not prime. i think because it needs 220 volts because the water line is 100ft. but the orbit works only on 115. go figure...lol

@@reidnix I am just using mine as the timer and not to power the pump so did not have to sort through that part of it. Hope you get yours sorted.

@richardcleaver194 - Yes, good challenge for sure. Hang in there.

@rickiejacobs5910 - You should be able to add some plate underneath to spread the load and reinforce? Without seeing what you have that would be my initial thought. Hope you can get it taken care of.

I have the deck off and going to call a welder and go from there. Thanks.

@lowridingtrucks88 - Thanks for the sub, hope you enjoy the channel.

@ForestForTheTrees3283 - Thanks for understanding me! 😀 Buy once Cry Once and enjoy it for a long time. Appreciate the comment.

@RustyInventions - Thanks, this was a fun project as I recall. Customer was happy for sure. Appreciate the comment.

@user-qp3eb4pm1zfatcatreloading - Thanks for the comment. Yes, I think there mechanic series all has the ball bearing slides. For a top box with the thin drawers that us machinists love though, you get the other slides. Which for light tools they hold work very well. Still loving this new combo over a year it. Works great. I expect you will be happy when you make your purchase.

@nicholashacking381 - Thanks for the comment and the sub. Yes, I think we all make plenty of mistakes, happy to share mine and try to prevent some for others. This set up works great, hope it works well for you also. All the best.

@Wszyc - Ha! Thick coveralls, stay safe. :) Thanks for the comment.

@toadjam12000 - Thanks for the comment. Hope you can find one that works for you.

@llnex - Appreciate the comment. I have heard nothing but great things about Fronius and did consider it. In the end it came down to what was locally available for both the initial purchase and parts and service if needed in the future. So far not unhappy with the Dynasty. Maybe one day I will get to try a Fronius to compare.

@mxcollin95 - Thanks, it took me a while to get it right but I love it. Appreciate the comment.

@MrLongpants - Bruce, congrats on the new machine, you are on an amazing life learning journey for sure. I do have PM chucks with my lathe and the cradles are actually made from some of the pallet wood that the lathe came on. I did not do a full video on that but did make a post on the Hobby-Machinist forum. Basically cut the diameter of the chuck with a fly cutter and boring head on my mill. And just used a saw to cut the bevels out of the bottom to clear the ways. If you have a good band saw could likely make the whole thing there as well. I hope that helps, here is a link to the post with some pics. www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pot-knob-and-reducer-and-chuck-cradle.88086/

@essexmirage Thanks, appreciate the comment. All the best getting your space set up. Nothing but enjoyment out of my shop, can’t imagine not having it. 😀