Yeah, that was surprising to see you can remove that much material at that speed with a bench top mill. Round column one at that. I thought you had a Precision Matthews knee mill for some reason. I have the PM-835S.
@robotech - That is a nice mill you have. I found PM after I purchased this Jet. I have the PM 1440TL Lathe and wish I had one of their mills. But this Jet has worked out well for me in the end. Thanks for the comment.
The fact that he had to recenter for every cut tells you the machine moved quite a bit working it like this. Stopping the carbide in the cut, hogging needlessly, pushing the machine past its design limits, its like a "How not to" video. Im seeing sloppy keyways that are canted and P shaped at the end of the cut. You can even see the P shape in the video.
@@memyself3275 Always appreciate another perspective. Thanks for the comment and the feedback. I did recenter after the ¼" cut. Once it cut full depth it likely did pull the table over and move and set the flex in the machine. I did not adjust again for the ½" cutter, so no additional shift with the 3/8" cut, at that point the shift and flex had already occurred. By cutting the key in one shot at full depth, IMO it sets all your flex at the beginning of the cut and if you maintain a consistent feed then the flex stays more or less the same through the cut and you end up with a pretty good keyway. As for pushing the machine to hard, if you watch the intro again, that was one of the main points of this video was to answer a question someone had about how hard can you push this type of mill in steel. I was trying to push it hard to find those limits.
@@memyself3275 Ha, for sure. The beauty of this and most trades is there are a lot of ways to do the same task. I am always happy to learn. You did make me go and check my Machinery’s Hand Book though and the for a class 1 fit the tolerance for the 3/8” key seat is -.000 and +.002 and for the ½ is -.000 and +.003. Even on this machine I feel confident I held to that. 😁
@tomdewinter - Thanks for the comment and the feedback. I guess since it was not a real project, I did not think about that aspect, sorry to disappoint. I did not have any key stock to check the fit but here is what I measured with my digital calipers. The ¼" slot that I back fed after cutting (should not do that) was almost .002" oversize. The 3/8" and 1/2" slots were about .0005" oversize. Should only vary based on the runout of your spindle. Also for a tighter keyway, a 2 flute often cuts a little truer to size than a 4 flute. A 2 flute center cut end mill will also allow you to plunge and cut a keyway in the middle of a shaft. The nice thing about making the key in one cut full depth is any backlash in your machine table is all pulled out at the start of the cut and you should cut the true diameter of the end mill (plus any runout). Hope that helps.
@@BladesIIB Thanks for your reply. You got better accuracy than I expected. I’ve never pushed my round column Enco that hard. Good to know that I could.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work.
@RustyInventions-wz6ir - Welcome to the channel, thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much very grateful for your review on this ❤😊
@tinaliebe5118 - My pleasure. Glad it was helpful. All the best getting your machine up and running. Thanks for the comment.
Yeah, that was surprising to see you can remove that much material at that speed with a bench top mill. Round column one at that. I thought you had a Precision Matthews knee mill for some reason. I have the PM-835S.
@robotech - That is a nice mill you have. I found PM after I purchased this Jet. I have the PM 1440TL Lathe and wish I had one of their mills. But this Jet has worked out well for me in the end. Thanks for the comment.
The fact that he had to recenter for every cut tells you the machine moved quite a bit working it like this. Stopping the carbide in the cut, hogging needlessly, pushing the machine past its design limits, its like a "How not to" video. Im seeing sloppy keyways that are canted and P shaped at the end of the cut. You can even see the P shape in the video.
@@memyself3275 Always appreciate another perspective. Thanks for the comment and the feedback. I did recenter after the ¼" cut. Once it cut full depth it likely did pull the table over and move and set the flex in the machine. I did not adjust again for the ½" cutter, so no additional shift with the 3/8" cut, at that point the shift and flex had already occurred. By cutting the key in one shot at full depth, IMO it sets all your flex at the beginning of the cut and if you maintain a consistent feed then the flex stays more or less the same through the cut and you end up with a pretty good keyway. As for pushing the machine to hard, if you watch the intro again, that was one of the main points of this video was to answer a question someone had about how hard can you push this type of mill in steel. I was trying to push it hard to find those limits.
@@BladesIIB Gotcha. Glad to see you could take a lil ribbing from a fellow tradesman.
@@memyself3275 Ha, for sure. The beauty of this and most trades is there are a lot of ways to do the same task. I am always happy to learn. You did make me go and check my Machinery’s Hand Book though and the for a class 1 fit the tolerance for the 3/8” key seat is -.000 and +.002 and for the ½ is -.000 and +.003. Even on this machine I feel confident I held to that. 😁
I was disappointed that you didn't do any measurement of the finished slots.
@tomdewinter - Thanks for the comment and the feedback. I guess since it was not a real project, I did not think about that aspect, sorry to disappoint. I did not have any key stock to check the fit but here is what I measured with my digital calipers. The ¼" slot that I back fed after cutting (should not do that) was almost .002" oversize. The 3/8" and 1/2" slots were about .0005" oversize. Should only vary based on the runout of your spindle. Also for a tighter keyway, a 2 flute often cuts a little truer to size than a 4 flute. A 2 flute center cut end mill will also allow you to plunge and cut a keyway in the middle of a shaft. The nice thing about making the key in one cut full depth is any backlash in your machine table is all pulled out at the start of the cut and you should cut the true diameter of the end mill (plus any runout). Hope that helps.
@@BladesIIB Thanks for your reply. You got better accuracy than I expected.
I’ve never pushed my round column Enco that hard. Good to know that I could.