@Eggollofdoom - I still do a bit of everything. I have been working on some Bronco mods lately. I have a few Bronco parts I will be manufacturing and will get those videos out soon. Thanks for the question.
@wags9777 - As I mentioned in the video opener the precision on some of these parts is not critical. In the case of the drill chucks, they will never go on a drill again and will just be turned my hand, clamped onto a not precise rod in a not precise hole so the runout will never be a factor. If they were going to turn fast then I would have to machine them a different way for sure.
that can not be good for yr lather turning it on and stoping it tapping they are not made for that type of operation ,, you are def killing the life or yr machine ,,, that's why they have tapping machines and also handles on the tap to do it manually ,,,, I just dont get it .. its not that much work to do it by hand
@MrMrbowhunter001 - I appreciate your concern for my lathe and your comment. Power tapping on a lathe may be more common than you think. Yes, there are definitely better tap holders for the lathe than just the tap handle like I am using in this video. Many people just hold taps in the chuck, however, I find they tend to slip in just a chuck. There are also special tap holders you can get that go in the tailstock and hold onto the square of the tap for power tapping see with a spring to help feed the tap. The motor is a 3 Phase so all the starting and stopping is no issue. Also, I believe Knurling puts more side load and strain on the headstock bearings than you could put with a tap held this way and Knurling is a standard machining process.
@wags9777 - I was actually just hand feeding for that step since it was so narrow, trying to push the depth and feed as hard as I could just to see how fast I could remove that material. Most of the noise is because the chip liked to roll onto the inside of the carbide rather than break and the loose chip string getting wedged against the face is what makes all the noise and what leaves the gummy surface on the face of the part. Noisy yes but again the goal is remove the stock as quickly as possible to get to the finish cut. I did start taking lighter cuts to get the chips to break after a bit. Fun to experiment and push things to see what you can do. The other option would be to face in from the outside to the step but I find it easier to feed over and face out instead. All about trade offs to find out what works best for you and that project.
Do you mainly manufacture knives now or do you still work on machine parts?
@Eggollofdoom - I still do a bit of everything. I have been working on some Bronco mods lately. I have a few Bronco parts I will be manufacturing and will get those videos out soon. Thanks for the question.
are those custom handles on your tool post?
@robotech - Yes they are. Here is the video with the details and on making those a couple years ago, ua-cam.com/video/QViAjcexSs8/v-deo.html
You can see the run-out on every chuck you showed. There is nothing precise about a hand tap.
@wags9777 - As I mentioned in the video opener the precision on some of these parts is not critical. In the case of the drill chucks, they will never go on a drill again and will just be turned my hand, clamped onto a not precise rod in a not precise hole so the runout will never be a factor. If they were going to turn fast then I would have to machine them a different way for sure.
that can not be good for yr lather turning it on and stoping it tapping they are not made for that type of operation ,, you are def killing the life or yr machine ,,, that's why they have tapping machines and also handles on the tap to do it manually ,,,, I just dont get it .. its not that much work to do it by hand
@MrMrbowhunter001 - I appreciate your concern for my lathe and your comment. Power tapping on a lathe may be more common than you think. Yes, there are definitely better tap holders for the lathe than just the tap handle like I am using in this video. Many people just hold taps in the chuck, however, I find they tend to slip in just a chuck. There are also special tap holders you can get that go in the tailstock and hold onto the square of the tap for power tapping see with a spring to help feed the tap. The motor is a 3 Phase so all the starting and stopping is no issue. Also, I believe Knurling puts more side load and strain on the headstock bearings than you could put with a tap held this way and Knurling is a standard machining process.
Your feed is waaay to much per revolution. Look at what the chip is doing and sounds coming from your insert. this was painfull to watch.
@wags9777 - I was actually just hand feeding for that step since it was so narrow, trying to push the depth and feed as hard as I could just to see how fast I could remove that material. Most of the noise is because the chip liked to roll onto the inside of the carbide rather than break and the loose chip string getting wedged against the face is what makes all the noise and what leaves the gummy surface on the face of the part. Noisy yes but again the goal is remove the stock as quickly as possible to get to the finish cut. I did start taking lighter cuts to get the chips to break after a bit. Fun to experiment and push things to see what you can do. The other option would be to face in from the outside to the step but I find it easier to feed over and face out instead. All about trade offs to find out what works best for you and that project.