Відео

Well I don't know where you purchased your resistors so I cannot tell you exactly what you bought. BUT....Resistors are "readable".....The color of the resistor and the color and number of stripes on it tells you how much resistance the device provides. There are numerous charts you can google and download to help familiarize yourself on how to read resistors. Be sure to go back and watch at that moment as I did mention which wire is intended for ground and circuit completion.

@@jimklein361 Yep the knowledge is universal! It can be used on any car!

So I found that u might need 2 sets of locks because it makes the job faster as you can have both clutch plates compressed and locked, making the exchange quicker. My car was purchased with a modified Sachs 225mm pressure plate, which the fatter spring tool holds perfectly. The 210mm plate from LUK uses the smaller spring locks. Because of this it was actually necessary for me to buy a 2nd set of springs locks because one set just wouldnt fit. It may not be necessary in your case but it would definately speed things up because in order to get the spring locks out...you need to compress the pressure plate. You can compress the old plate with the cars hydraulics as shown in the video, then access a shop press and lock the new pressure plate with a 2nd set of springs. The LUK clutch uses the smaller springs. Not having 2 sets of locks makes the process alot longer if you only have one set of springs to compress 2 pressure plates.

NP!

Glad it helped

😁✌

You're welcome

Once you remove the VTCS system it adds a performance benefit, so there is no need to return the valves back. There is a secondary set of valves in the lower plenum that I reinstalled. Due to the low airflow at lower RPM, I didn't see a reason to remove those. If you remove the lower plenum valves, the effect man be that the engine will have reduced torque output in the lower RPM ranges, which would further reduce daily drivability.

Yeah it sucks. But dont feel bad...my evaporator is now leaking so ill have to replace it, so i gotta do 1/2 of that work again.

The endless summer and heat of Florida

@@RetrocarStyle Texas isn't a lot better. This last winter was great though. Keep up the good work. God Bless you

Yes I just remounted it.

Thanks for the reply! By any chance, would you know if I have to do anything if I were to use the miata airbag? Like, get it recalibrated or something along those lines?

@@TheRecof most likely the airbags are very similar if not the same. You can cross check on any Mazda OEM parts website the airbag part numbers and see if they are the same. The miata and protege are similar so i doubt you would need to do anything else the resistance in the bags likely is the same. But check first. You can also reference service and repair manuals on both cars ( ALLDATA or Mitchells ) and check resistance values for any differences. The small wiring harneses and plugs to the bags are very similar if not the same as well.

Just grab n pull...may have to use a small pocket screw driver to help pry them.

@@RetrocarStyle mhm, i tried to pull with my fingers... didn't work out, seems i need to engage with some toolery

Polo and Pan (same the oil Pan) lol music.ua-cam.com/video/vlqT7cyUlO0/v-deo.html&si=K6g2ZCskZFP1dQ7Z

Or this or that: music.ua-cam.com/video/CgugkEB-q_Q/v-deo.html&si=v-KraqDY1L-QMf5M

3 yrs ahead of ya.....LOL

3 years ahead of ya

LOL

@@RetrocarStyle Good! Transmission is the Achilles' heel, it's fragile...

@@keyzoner What time is it where youre located...???

LUK is a German brand that is usually always available for euro cars

@@RetrocarStyle yes, I'm from Europe... but do you know the LUK reference number? I don't see it on the box you show.

@@keyzoner I can find out. Do you want the part number?

@RetrocarStyle Yes man thanks, if you retrieve it! I've found this LUK reference: 322006816 Diameter 215 mm Number of teeth 17 🤗

@@keyzoner The LUK Part number is 21024. The OEM number is 622311777.

And Proteges..!

Check @ 18:10

Yes, I've noticed that you've hammered it. I just gave this advice in case you (next time) or someone else is stuck at that level... 😉 The trick is to turn the driveshaft to align the dolines with the hole in the center of the clutch disk. Sometimes, this primary driveshaft if hard to pull out... I've put a big washer on the bolt screwed to the driveshaft, and pulled it out with a big pickle fork ball joint separator.

@@keyzoner Rinse, Wash, Repeat....LOL

Betcha that ticket cost more than the clutch.....🤣

Will do....I have a few videos coming. Im just so busy with Alfa Romeo & Maserati training that I dont have time to edit...but its in the works!

The cigarette lighter socket is on the same circuit as the radio, which should be a 15amp bue mini fuse. So first verify if there is or isnt a short circuit issue with the radio. if there are no problems there, check the circuits and make sure they aren't grounded in lieu of the 12v socket. Sometimes the sockets themselves will ground out and cause issues. 3rd, some devices you plug into the 12v socket may pull more volts and amps initially than the 15 amp fuse will allow either by design or the device may be faulty. These steps are by process of elimination. Hope this helps.

Well the 2.1 head and the 2.3 9000 head or B234 head are the same. There is a later 9-3 head that has rectangular ports. I wont be using that head. I have considered taking a 1985-86 SPG head and enlarging the ports to that of the 2.1/2.3 head. The reason for that is the combustion chamber has a special shape and volume that can produce very good flow numbers for the ultimate torque monster. I saw this while watching one of David Vizard's cylinderhead porting and valve unshrouding technique videos. The Mazda head he was demonstrating has a similar combution chamber to the early 900 turbo/spg heads. Definately looking into that.

@@RetrocarStyle I hope you share the road blocks. Im going across the nation to buy an '87 and planning on making the switch. Id like to see 250 HP in it one day.

@@do.u.groove5112 250HP is plenty in the classic 900..... though what I was aiming for was 285-340HP. Still not much by todays standard, but honestly thats enough!!

Unfortunately I do not. I did read somwhere that Mazda did make a seal installer at some point for these cars but I have to find it or even see a actual picture of it. They were dealer only tools. Another tool I researched for was the tool to replace the cam follower shims without removing the cams. I saw a picture of it but there was no price and it was wrote in Japanese Hiragana or Katakana....i assume unable to purchase. The only thing i can tell you is to see if you can find some specs on the seal's dimensions and find a seal installer from another car that will fit. BMW makes these out of plastic and they work well. They have a bunch of differet ones for rear main seals. Research the seal dimensions for these engines: FSDE, BMW N20, BMW B48. See what you come up with. I think they are similarly sized. Maybe you could use one from BMW.

NP. I got another video coming. I'll share some of the saab rare saab goodies i have found over the years the make the car look outstanding.

Yes, id be glad to port a head for you. Contact me at my email in the about section.

email sent!@@RetrocarStyle

It's Getting there!!

YOUR DREAM CAR!!

Well, I installed new belts on the engine while I had it out of the car. On the next video maybe I can do some pointers on how to get this done as well as some tips on extra parts that would keep the belts from wearing.

@@RetrocarStyle I'd appreciate that so much. The previous owner from 20 years ago let the belts rip and the under of the hood is ripped up. Your hood looks mint! Amazing find for sure.

@@stephenmorrissey1254 Yes I agree...amazing find. You can get hoods on ebay. But most of them are far away and out of state and the sellers prefer local pickup only and or high freight costs. Finding them local makes it super cheap and if the parts are mint = Its the ultimate score!

So this shifter from Jordan Pagano's Modern Classic Saab has a shorter thow. Essentially it is a short shifter for the classic 900 SAABs. It remedies the shifter assembly slop problem with older classic 900s that used the nylon ball shifters. It reduces shift lever throw movement and makes shifting feel 100% more positive and precise.

thx for your answer @@RetrocarStyle !

👍👍👍@@Cavyann

The OEM mounts are fluid filled for vibration dampening. And they are not cheap. A while back I spend nearly 800 dollars on 3 OEM mounts because they last the longer than non fluid filled aftermarket mounts. So that day I wasnt happy at all with seeing that.

Ahh I see. So then, what is that pair of tubes going down the body of the car past the mount? Just curious

@@EliHernandezy808 Either pwer steering hoses or conduit for a/c lines. They are both in that area.

Ill definately investigate

@@RetrocarStyle Gear box cover from Protege, gearing from Mazda 6 to be clear.

​@@RetrocarStylei have done same thing with my Ford probe gearbox, little modifications are needed to do in the case, but its not hard, internals from 2007 mazda 6 GG 6-speed, but im changing 4 and 5 gears, they are too long, and im instaling 4 and 5 gears from mazda mx-3 v6 model, if you want some more info text me, i could help 😅

Between the oil pump and the block is an o-ring. As time runs...that o-ring can become " petrified" and get very crispy. When that happens, oil can leak between the pump and the block and you would never know.....this can cause a low oil pressure condition. The only way to remedy that is to change that o-ring. I would also look at the gasket between the oil pickup tube and the pump.

Also: Abolish the EPA. It brought more harm than good to current times

F.... the EPA. The EPA has been the source of ALL the car problems around the world.