SAAB 900 Engine Start
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Today the SAAB engine breathes FIRE!! But it didn't com easy. It was a crazy roller coaster ride with lots of twists and turns but in the end I finally got the hear the engine run following a rod bearing failure and subsequent engine refresh....And its still not out of the water!! But I will get it roadworthy little by little. Hearing it run drives the anticipation of another drive through the roof.....But gotta work out the bugs first. So keep watching!!
Soundtrack: David Cutter - Splash
www.DavidCutterMusic.com
I'm collecting spare parts like Air Mass Meter AMM, Electronic Control Unit ECU, Crank Position Sensor CPS, to keep 900 classics on the road!
Like you say, many parts manufacturers which propose adaptable parts.
I love working on these cars.
Pressure bleeding seems to be the only way. Even then sometimes the clutch seems to not disengage where it should. Pressure bleed again, run a quart of fluid through it,
No air in the system , works great. A few days later the clutch is engaging too soon. Very puzzling.
I also cut the slave out. It felt wrong, but it worked.
Also did the CPS.
So much to learn on these cars.
Keep at it. Everyone is happy to see an old SAAB drive by !
I almost cannot go anywhere in it. The day Hurricane Ian made landfall here in Florida, I was driving it around. I stopped at a 7-11 to gas up and get some snacks....I couldn't even get out of the car good. some guy in a Chevy pick-up followed me for like 5 miles....I had no idea until he told me....😳He made offers to buy it on the spot! Then I left from there to wash it...( it had lots if mold on it from sitting) at the carwash....I got surrounded by three people who were x-military, these guys told me stories of how they were in Europe and they all owned some sort of SAAB or BMW...900s 99s turbo versions, 9000s.....I'm not an attention seeker period...but this car ALWAYS attracts somebody!! EVEN BEAT UP AND OLD LOOKING!
Reverse bleeding works great, with a syringe + plastic tube or mytivac pump.
This technic is spread in air planes mechanics.
Also of note, since the gearbox is mounted on the same axis as the shift linkage and it's a direct fit to the gear selectors inside the gearbox, the alignment of the gear shift linkage is extra important in these cars. I'm sure you have the Bentley manual, it describes aligning the linkage to the gearbox. It does require a special tool but others on the internet have already worked around the problem of not having that tool :)
Yes I have the "L" shaped tool and a new shiftrod coupling wedge pin. Im looking into all these issues. One thing I mistaked on is when I put the engine in I left out the metal disc spacer on the right engine mount. So the engine is sitting 3mm lower on the right. All the mounts were total trash when I took them out. Now all three are new. I dont have Bentley manual but I do have access to ALLDATA service manuals online. It basically has the same info. Another reason Id like to replace the clutch is because when the slave cylinder exploded brake fluid got all over it...so more than likely the disc is ruined.
In 1994, a 1983 900T saved my life when a woman ran a red light @ 45mph and hit me in the drivers door. Saab made great autos, sad that they are now gone.
U can still get these. Parts are available. Just because SAAB'S financial team made some bonehead moves and sunk the company doesnt mean u cant enjoy another 900 classic!!
Yes you have 2 crank pulses.. but your distributor will select the right cilinder.
Ps I had sensor fail as will but only when engine was warm.. so after every 4 to 5 km it stopped, and wouldn't run for at least an hour.. it took me 2 months to figure this out..
Yeah sometimes these cars can be a headache!!
Buddy!!! Happy to see she starts up! Great video update bro
Yes im glad too...I needed to hear it run so I could adress any issues it may have...surprise oil leaks, coolant leaks, etc., so far so good...No leaks or bad noises...the anxiousness was killing me!!
Bout to get a 1988 Saab 900 vert turbo, subscribed and yes please hook up with your parts source! 🔥🔥💯💯💪
Ya, getting a slave cylinder off without the special tools or separating the engine from the gearbox is basically impossible. Ask me how I know :/
Also, I like the Lee Kelso method. I actually just had my wife lower the engine on the gearbox while I held the release bearing back a few weeks ago. Let's just say, I'm lucky I still have all of my digits.
Its possible. Ill show how i did it in my video. I just gotta finish the edit....it is not a fun task.
Hello, you also looked at an Alfarrarivideo from "homebuilt by jeff" and were put on his list for a win.
Did he choose you in the end?
I saw that...but here is the thing. A few months ago I was chosen as a random winner for Demolition Ranch armory videos. You txt a number, and then they contact you stating that u can pick any number of guns or somthing like that and that they would ship them to your state's liscened arms dealer. The catch is that you must pay for shipping. In my case the guy said i had to pay like 275 for shipping...i asked why so much and he stated " oh its for insurance"...It did not seem legit....i went most of the way without fully getting involved to " find the catch " which is it seems like a scam to get someone to pay for shipping on something....then that something NEVER ARRIVES. Besides....Homebuilt by Jeff, as far as I know, has NEVER mentioned a giveaway of any kind or any prizes for his viewers.
@@RetrocarStyle Fu**, fu**, fu**!!!😡😡😡
@@dirkdutzmann9250 YEAH.....WATCH OUT.
I just picked up a new sensor, that doesn’t have a diagram. Do you happen to remember which colors matched up?
Good question. On the back of the sensor it is marked + - for the outside wires. But this isn't correct. I tried that first and the car wouldn't start I had to reverse the wires. I'll go look at the wire arrangement and update this post.
UPDATE: So this should be simple. If you have the old sensor, simply put the wire where the corresponding ones are on the old sensor. On the factory connector, the center wire should be green with a red stripe. Then there is a black wire and a solid red. The sense or pulse signal wire is the green and red. You will need to crimp or solder the wires to the original connector to make it work so before hard wiring the sensor, twist the ends of the black connector end to the black sensor wire and the red connector end to the red part of sensor the wire. See if the car starts or tries to sputter. If you get nothing, swap the black wires to the red and red to black. Its hard for me to get a good look on my car because the wiring is covered by a long high temp protective boot.
Did you also replace the pilot bearing?
When the engine was out, I replaced the pilot bearing. But Yesterday I went to mess around with it and I actually was able to get it into gear without scrubbing gears. BUT I had to press the pedal super hard. The car moves but barely....clutch is slipping. I assume the fluid did it's toll when the slave cylinder burst at the dealer....and damaging the pressure plate springs trying to get out the slave cylinder when it failed didn't help either.....
I re-bled the system...but its the same result......SO my fears of a damaged clutch was true. New LUK Repset on the way.
@@RetrocarStyle I think I'm going through exactly the same thing. I was hoping to see video of replacing that pilot bearing.
@@Pr0fess0rx29 Should you need to replace the pilot bearing, it will be easy. There are two ways. You can use a hook with a small sliding hammer and pull it out or the easy method would be to remove the flywheel and use a punch or drift to drive the old bearing out and drive the new one in and re-install the flywheel bolts with thread lock.