This is one of the best how to videos on this. I've been trying to make sense of this setup for a while. Showing the struggles actually provides useful info. I'm tired of the edited videos that bypass the struggle with stuff like this.
I'm glad you're archiving this knowledge. A lot of vehicle models will be forgotten but the SAAB 900 is an odd enough duck that people will be watching your videos in decades to come. Lee Calso, Terje and a few others are doing this. Maybe that's weird to think about.
Well....recently there seems to be a trend of classic SAAB enthusiats that have showed more interest in these cars especially on youtube. Autoautopsy recently bought a 87 900 turbo and converted it to a manual. There are various clips and videos scattered across youtube on the C900 and seems more get uploaded every week. So far SAABS are featured on these channels. Lee Kelso Retrocar Style The classic saab guy Nodar Performance Auto Autopsy My Boosted life Tjeries Saab Channel Cars with Bij Memphis
Good work. Not easy, but very satisfyingly job to complete. I saw the wear marks on the springs of the old clutch right away. Thanks for showing that. Most would edit that out...
Can do mine in 30 min , use a 1/4" cable to keep the fingers back on the pressure plate. 30 min after i got pulled over doing 80 in a 55. Clutch worked great
I am actually in the middle of this job on my saab 900 t16. Was hard to get everything out. Now i just need to get a flywheel bearing, and of course stuff all the shit inside again. My brother who is a proper mecanic will help me. he had never done this job on a saab and found it very intresting.
To insert back the clutch shaft: 1- screw the same bolt you used to extract the clutch shaft, then 2- use your pry bar as a lever, for this put the end of your pry bar against the nose silent bloc (on the front of the gearbox), and push with the pry bar against the bolt you've screwed at the end of the clutch shaft.
Yes, I've noticed that you've hammered it. I just gave this advice in case you (next time) or someone else is stuck at that level... 😉 The trick is to turn the driveshaft to align the dolines with the hole in the center of the clutch disk. Sometimes, this primary driveshaft if hard to pull out... I've put a big washer on the bolt screwed to the driveshaft, and pulled it out with a big pickle fork ball joint separator.
For the clutch receiver, you can reverse bleeding it, with a syringe or mytivac... It works great, this reverse bleeding technic is used in air planes.
I have fitted hundreds of saab 99 and 900 clutches, worked on saabs 1978 till 1998 with saab dealer and as an independent specialist never used ties and always replaced seals. In slave cylinder .
Great video, thanks ! My experience was the same. " Half an hour " is a lie. I actually cut the old slave out with a sawzall. Also had to use a pressure bleeder to get the air out. Doing it any other way just didn't work for me
im having issues trying to get the shaft back in. it seems like i can get it through the disc, but it wont go any further. since it looks like you are just baby tapping it in, what am I missing here?
So you will have to lift the clutch disk and center it while simultaneously placing the shaft through the center of it. This can be achieved by holding the disk with a large pair of tweezers. You can see this being done at 17:28. Unfortunately outside of the visual demonstration, this is something you must " feel ". When aligning these two parts, you must " feel" when the splines of both parts align. When achieved simply tap the shaft in lightly with a hammer. NOTE: The center of the disc and the flywheel bearing MUST be aligned. The nose of the drive shaft rests inside the flywheel bearing. Be sure that a complete alignment of the parts is occuring.
(20:30) you say if your doing job solo you need 2 sets of spring locks, Why? Is it because the first set is stuck in old pressure plate? or because of better fit? First timer,
So I found that u might need 2 sets of locks because it makes the job faster as you can have both clutch plates compressed and locked, making the exchange quicker. My car was purchased with a modified Sachs 225mm pressure plate, which the fatter spring tool holds perfectly. The 210mm plate from LUK uses the smaller spring locks. Because of this it was actually necessary for me to buy a 2nd set of springs locks because one set just wouldnt fit. It may not be necessary in your case but it would definately speed things up because in order to get the spring locks out...you need to compress the pressure plate. You can compress the old plate with the cars hydraulics as shown in the video, then access a shop press and lock the new pressure plate with a 2nd set of springs. The LUK clutch uses the smaller springs. Not having 2 sets of locks makes the process alot longer if you only have one set of springs to compress 2 pressure plates.
What's the luk reference? I've installed quinton hazell qkt487af, and qkt486af, but there's tons of others. I'm looking to rebuild the clutch disk with new linings (like in old days)!
Oh really?...Is it a Genuine SAAB Tool? Got a part number? At what point in the clutch hydraulics would you place this tool to pressurize the slave cylinder?
A very important part is getting the disc in the proper direction...so, some clarification is important for viewers. Don't JUST SAY " IT'S MARKED" Clarify PLEASE?
The first clarifying point would be the inclusion of admitting the error of putting the disc in backwards. As a second clarifying point...the disc is, in fact "marked" Since the clutch is produced by a German manufacturer, it should say " Getriebe Seite " which translates loose as Gearbox Side. On the Sach unit it is usually stamped or etched into the clutch disc plate but since it was so rusty, the stampings could not be read.
This is one of the best how to videos on this. I've been trying to make sense of this setup for a while. Showing the struggles actually provides useful info. I'm tired of the edited videos that bypass the struggle with stuff like this.
It’s great 👍, that you shared your mistakes. I really appreciate this. Thank, Jm.
NP. I got another video coming. I'll share some of the saab rare saab goodies i have found over the years the make the car look outstanding.
really appreciate all your C900 videos, if you like the cars and keep driving / fixing them, hope you make more videos.
Will do....I have a few videos coming. Im just so busy with Alfa Romeo & Maserati training that I dont have time to edit...but its in the works!
I'm glad you're archiving this knowledge. A lot of vehicle models will be forgotten but the SAAB 900 is an odd enough duck that people will be watching your videos in decades to come. Lee Calso, Terje and a few others are doing this. Maybe that's weird to think about.
Well....recently there seems to be a trend of classic SAAB enthusiats that have showed more interest in these cars especially on youtube. Autoautopsy recently bought a 87 900 turbo and converted it to a manual. There are various clips and videos scattered across youtube on the C900 and seems more get uploaded every week. So far SAABS are featured on these channels.
Lee Kelso
Retrocar Style
The classic saab guy
Nodar Performance
Auto Autopsy
My Boosted life
Tjeries Saab Channel
Cars with Bij
Memphis
@@RetrocarStyle Focus in on your experience and trip ups with this car. Us non-mechanics appreciate it.
If you know what you're doing, these are cake. Loved clutch jobs on 900s!
😎............................
Great real instruction video on the dreaded clutch job!
Good work. Not easy, but very satisfyingly job to complete. I saw the wear marks on the springs of the old clutch right away. Thanks for showing that. Most would edit that out...
Yeah I wanted to show that mistakes happen and that the job could be done without specialty tools...patience is required.
Can do mine in 30 min , use a 1/4" cable to keep the fingers back on the pressure plate. 30 min after i got pulled over doing 80 in a 55. Clutch worked great
Betcha that ticket cost more than the clutch.....🤣
I am actually in the middle of this job on my saab 900 t16. Was hard to get everything out. Now i just need to get a flywheel bearing, and of course stuff all the shit inside again. My brother who is a proper mecanic will help me. he had never done this job on a saab and found it very intresting.
To insert back the clutch shaft:
1- screw the same bolt you used to extract the clutch shaft,
then
2- use your pry bar as a lever,
for this
put the end of your pry bar against the nose silent bloc (on the front of the gearbox),
and push with the pry bar against the bolt you've screwed at the end of the clutch shaft.
Check @ 18:10
Yes, I've noticed that you've hammered it. I just gave this advice in case you (next time) or someone else is stuck at that level... 😉 The trick is to turn the driveshaft to align the dolines with the hole in the center of the clutch disk.
Sometimes, this primary driveshaft if hard to pull out... I've put a big washer on the bolt screwed to the driveshaft, and pulled it out with a big pickle fork ball joint separator.
@@keyzoner Rinse, Wash, Repeat....LOL
For the clutch receiver, you can reverse bleeding it, with a syringe or mytivac... It works great, this reverse bleeding technic is used in air planes.
And Proteges..!
Well done!
I have fitted hundreds of saab 99 and 900 clutches, worked on saabs 1978 till 1998 with saab dealer and as an independent specialist never used ties and always replaced seals. In slave cylinder .
Great video, thanks ! My experience was the same. " Half an hour " is a lie. I actually cut the old slave out with a sawzall.
Also had to use a pressure bleeder to get the air out. Doing it any other way just didn't work for me
There is a tool for compressing the Pressure Plate. I used an extension cord after using a press on the Pressure Plate Fingers.
Yeah..ive seen the tool...cost like 680 quid....basically a large lever with a fulcrum
Thanks. Good tutorial. Hey, come to New Mexico - cops don't really care if you have tags or not.
LOL! I might consider that!
im having issues trying to get the shaft back in. it seems like i can get it through the disc, but it wont go any further. since it looks like you are just baby tapping it in, what am I missing here?
So you will have to lift the clutch disk and center it while simultaneously placing the shaft through the center of it. This can be achieved by holding the disk with a large pair of tweezers. You can see this being done at 17:28. Unfortunately outside of the visual demonstration, this is something you must " feel ". When aligning these two parts, you must " feel" when the splines of both parts align. When achieved simply tap the shaft in lightly with a hammer. NOTE: The center of the disc and the flywheel bearing MUST be aligned. The nose of the drive shaft rests inside the flywheel bearing. Be sure that a complete alignment of the parts is occuring.
Where can I buy that filter? 🤔🤔🤔
ROTFLMAO 🤣
I missed the point where you disconnected the line coming from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder?
Due to it being a minor detail, It was probably not shown.
(20:30) you say if your doing job solo you need 2 sets of spring locks, Why? Is it because the first set is stuck in old pressure plate? or because of better fit? First timer,
So I found that u might need 2 sets of locks because it makes the job faster as you can have both clutch plates compressed and locked, making the exchange quicker. My car was purchased with a modified Sachs 225mm pressure plate, which the fatter spring tool holds perfectly. The 210mm plate from LUK uses the smaller spring locks. Because of this it was actually necessary for me to buy a 2nd set of springs locks because one set just wouldnt fit. It may not be necessary in your case but it would definately speed things up because in order to get the spring locks out...you need to compress the pressure plate. You can compress the old plate with the cars hydraulics as shown in the video, then access a shop press and lock the new pressure plate with a 2nd set of springs. The LUK clutch uses the smaller springs. Not having 2 sets of locks makes the process alot longer if you only have one set of springs to compress 2 pressure plates.
What's the luk reference? I've installed quinton hazell qkt487af, and qkt486af, but there's tons of others.
I'm looking to rebuild the clutch disk with new linings (like in old days)!
LUK is a German brand that is usually always available for euro cars
@@RetrocarStyle yes, I'm from Europe... but do you know the LUK reference number? I don't see it on the box you show.
@@keyzoner I can find out. Do you want the part number?
@RetrocarStyle
Yes man thanks, if you retrieve it!
I've found this LUK reference:
322006816
Diameter 215 mm
Number of teeth 17
🤗
@@keyzoner The LUK Part number is 21024. The OEM number is 622311777.
I did this yesrs ago..There's a hand pump that pressurized the Clutch Slave cylinder to do this job..took me 30 minutes total..Your way is weird.
Oh really?...Is it a Genuine SAAB Tool? Got a part number? At what point in the clutch hydraulics would you place this tool to pressurize the slave cylinder?
A very important part is getting the disc in the proper direction...so, some clarification is important for viewers. Don't JUST SAY " IT'S MARKED" Clarify PLEASE?
The first clarifying point would be the inclusion of admitting the error of putting the disc in backwards. As a second clarifying point...the disc is, in fact "marked" Since the clutch is produced by a German manufacturer, it should say " Getriebe Seite " which translates loose as Gearbox Side. On the Sach unit it is usually stamped or etched into the clutch disc plate but since it was so rusty, the stampings could not be read.
@@RetrocarStyle If you grab the spring offset and set it into the pressure plate...you are good.