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Glad you liked it. Hope you found it useful. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes.

Thanks for watching. If your vice is a El Cheapo Chinese one then I agree. Both my vices are Professional ones that I also surface ground the bases referenced off the vice work area. Best Wishes.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching. Best Wishes.

Thank you! 🙂 Thanks for watching. Regards.

Thanks for the view Mike. Glad I could help. Regards.

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching. Kind Regards.

Thanks for the question. Yes you could use a drill bushing providing that the end is perpendicular to the OD and that you know the diameter of the bush accuratley. Regards.

Thanks for the view and your comment. I have seen the ballrace edge finder before, but a small word of warning when using it. The part needs to be oil and coolant free, as for it to work the outer race and the part need sufficient friction for it to work. Also too if it is a sealed bearing that has a rubber seal, you will get some resistance from that as well as the grease inside the bearing. But Hey, if it works for you well done. If you wanted to experiment, do a reading using a standard edge finder if you have one, then see if you get the same result using your ball race. If you don't have a stadard edge finder, use a ground pin and a slip of paper as a feeler gauge, just remember the the offset is 1/2 diameter of the pin, PLUS the thickness of the paper. Regards.

Happy to help. Thanks for watching. Kind Regards.

@@daveticehurst4191 shared with my friends too.. amezing content

Thanks for watching Winky. Pizza wa a bit burnt on the bottom, still not too bad for a first fire up. Regards.

@@daveticehurst4191 Love the creativity! I've made a couple of wood stoves in the past. The first was right after I bought my first home. I found a simple box made of 1/8" steel at a salvage yard and put a few holes in it and wazoo... wood stove. On the first super cold night I filled it up with wood. I woke up sweating during the night and in the morning the whole house smelled like something burned. The stove pipe went up and then horizontal to the chimney. The wood I was using was still a little green and creosote had dripped out of the pipe all over the carpet and my couch. That was learning experience one with wood stoves.

Thanks for the visit. Best Wishes.

Hi Jimbo, Thanks for the view and your question. If you would like to email me davesozzyworkshop@gmail.com and we can communicate easier with pictures if need be , rather than doing it via UA-cam that often will not accept me sending links. Looking forward to hearing from you. Regards.

Thanks for the view. I saw him doing that but I beleive he used hot water and a soap solution. I just spray them with brake cleaner. Regards.

​@@daveticehurst4191 well i assume higly that breakcleaner would work. When not I would go wild and use some washing soda. Then the oil would turn into a soap and could be washed away.

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes.

Hello Rob, thanks for the view and question. Model is the Imperial one with a 0.750" shank. Universal 3 D Taster. part number 80.360.00.IN I got it on Amazon in Australia. I think that they also do a metric version. Hope this helps. Regards.

Hi David. I could only find Metric in the UK, so it looks like I will have to go with one of those. I’ve got 20mm and 3/4” collects for the Bridgeport, so not too much of an issue. There are a few different 3D models out there and I wasn’t able to find out what exactly is the differences in them. But i at least can go with the right series now with that part number. Thanks again. Rob

Thanks for the view and your comment, I had suspected the "Slip" as the stilus is able to move in 360 degrees. Other commenters said I was not using it correctly. I shall just use it for bores if not critical, for accurate jobs I will use a centering dial indicator ( not a co axial one ) to get it correct. Regards.

@@daveticehurst4191 you can use it for bores absolutely. The tip tends to climb roll one way or the other. So light pressure is the key. It's just a reference and the same on the other side, then half way is center. I learned this mapping a compound radius. It was moving both z and x

Your are probably right as there is rather a long TAIL about the whole thing 🤣 Thanks for watching. Best Wishes.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for watching. I hope that you will get many, many happy hours using them. No fear of the cutter pulling out under load and damaging the vice or table. Regards.

Thanks for the view Nobby, I have got the " Old Grey Matter " working on several ideas for videos. Not a 5 minute job as you know, to make a video. You must have "Time" on your hands as you seem to knock 1 out every week. Best Wishes.

Thanks for watching. Kind Regards.

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes.

Thanks for watching. The pipes across the back are industrial foam lagged. The filter would be a bit difficult to do. He has been using the same filter setup with the pond for at least a Year and had not complained about heat loss. I will pass your comment onto him. Regards.

Great job Dave. Keep that brain active! Cheers Andrew

Thanks for the view. I did use a machine fixed extract nozzle when I made the next pair. I got fed up holding the hose by hand. 😊 gets tiring holding it and it also stopped me doing something else whilst it was auto grinding. Regards.

My pleasure. Thanks for watching. Regards.

Thanks for watching and this comment. Glad I was able to help. Good luck with your engineering learning, there is so much to take in. Some information is not much use in todays CNC machining but it is invaluable for oldie World manual machines. Regards.

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching. Regards.

Hi thanks for the view and question. Yes you can adjust the sensitivity by adjusting screw 9 shown on the instruction sheet. As far as I know it changes the tripping point if say the tool jams or is too big a cut. If you email me davesozzyworkshop@gmail.com I can send you the instruction manual as a .pdf. If you scroll to page 3 paragraph b of the manual, it mentions it there. I have never needed to adjust mine. Hope this helps. Looking forward to your email. Regards.

Thanks for watching. Glad that you found it of interest. My wallet is getting rather bulky again so watch this space. Regards.

Glad it was helpful. All you need now is to buy is a bandsaw to take full advantage of this video. 🤣 Thanks for watching. Regards.

There is no need to dress the wheel. My wheel is some type of bonded diamond, it started off with 4 mm depth of diamond. I have made 12 sets of these stones and there is still over 2 mm left. The crisp sharp edge that you get when new, wears down to radiused corners and a slight crown in the center. As long as you pass the wheel fully over the stone you will be fine. I seem to recall when I was working that the diamond wheels we had were of the plated type and were dressed using a green grit block. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and asking questions. Regards.

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the view. Kind Regards.

Thanks for watching. Good luck finding some and using them. Old technology now superseded by a DRO unit. Regards.

My pleasure. Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it will help you out. Regards.

Thank you for watching and telling me about your Country's Import Duties. As you say it make it impossible for you to purchase Professional tooling at a sensible price. These heads are quite complicated inside so would be difficult for you to replicate. Replacement small parts are available but not the main body. I do have a parts list of the small bits that are dimentioned. If you would like a copy of that then send me an email to davesozzyworkshop@gmail.com and I will send it to you. Regards.

Thanks for watching. There are a few other videos that may be of a practical use to you. Regards.

Glad you enjoyed it. Hope you can put the information to good use. Thanks for watching. Regards.

Thank You For The View. Regards.

Thanks for the view and your story. Regards.

Thanks for watching. I appreciate your comment too. Need to get the old knowledge out to the youngsters of today, especially as some schools have stopped teaching the mechanical trades and tend to go for computer subjects and such like. Regards.

Thanks for the view and your not so funny story. The smell of burning skin will haunt you for a few hours. Good luck with building your loco. Regards.

Thanks for watching and this comment. Never a Truer Word Said. Mind you my neighbours are ace, if I need help and ask I always get it. It may not be straight away as most of them are still working age.Regards.

Me neither until I saw Blondihacks using one that was sent to he as a gift. Bummer really as I then wanted one at almost 500 GBP. Thanks forwatching. Regards.

Thanks for the view. The screw are probably 6-32 or about 3 mm. No problem tapping if only people were taught properly and did not go about it like a Bull in a China shop.Gently, Gently, Catchy Monkey. Best Wishes.

Thanks for the information, I will certainly do that. I have been strongly advised by several people to mount this in a permanent holder and mark which driving dog on my NT 30 spindle engages with the holder. Once everything is dialed in it should always go back in the same location providing everything is cleaned each time.. Looks like I wasted my time in making a storage box for it. 😊 Will probably go for a fishing tackle box next tome with foam insert. Thanks agin for the view. Best Wishes.

Hello Peter thanks for the view and this very long and interesting article. I have spent several hours trying to find a NT 30 to Weldon holder in Imperial as my Haimer is a 3/4" shank. Can only find Metric 20 mm from China. Have orderd a precision 3/4" ER 32 collet and will order another NT 30 to ER 32 Chuck and dedicate permantly to the Haimer. Several people say that it will not be accurate in keep swapping it out of a holder each time. Also been advised to mark one of my spindle driving dogs and NT 30 so that they always go into the spindle in the same orientation. Will now need new storage for the whole item, probably go for a plastic fishing tackle box with foam inserts this time. Your drill operated wood maching tool has been shown on UA-cam on Mr Petes channel a couple of Years back, quite a tool. With regards to a Haimer repair, I would think the shipping costs and repair costs could almost be the same as buying a new one. Postage costs seem to be fantastic unless you buy anything from China where is seems to be free, I'm told the Chinese Government pay it, so they can flood the Western World with Chinese goods. Take care. Regards.

@@daveticehurst4191 Mine has a 3/4" shank on my digital model of Haimer as well. Strangely I've don't know of any that seem to be built with metric shank dimensions. I'm sure there made, but possibly the choice of what's stocked might be up to the tool dealer your buying from. You could also buy a 25 mm or even larger bored Weldon end mill holder and machine a shop built adapter sleeve to then fit your Haimers 3/4" shank. Slot the adapter for at least one of the set screws in the end mill holder so it can bear against the shank on your Haimer and it should work fine. As long as it's well fixtured within the holder to where it's tight and can't move and then zeroed to that position it will work. And yes permanently mounting it in it's own dedicated tool holder is going to require different storage. If you build or use a larger box, watch that ceramic probe as it goes in and out of the box. They can break fairly easy if there bumped hard enough and obviously there not exactly cheap to replace.

@@Pete-xe3il Thanks for that. The Metric version has a Metric shank but I like Imperial best, so hence me having a long search to find one here in Australia. Plenty of Metric ones being sold. Just bought an $ 8 plastic fishing box with a handle that fits the setup fine. I use the waterproof foam that seems to come protecting domestic appliances custom cut to fit the box and Haimer setup. Regards.

Thanks for watching but I disagree. I have redone the setup this morning, dialed in the probe tip usig the 4 set screws on the top. Any more than 0.004" pressure applied to the probe tip when first making contact gives approxamatley 0.007" deviation if the Haimer is rotated. This I suspect is due to the probe being on a gimbal and any friction / resistance to the probe against the part is causing side slip. I have even set the Haimer on the exact center of the ring using a centering dial indicator and did a retest so that ther would be no side pressure on the probe if it was off center. Exactly the same results. Regards.

@@daveticehurst4191 Firsty of all fitting the Haimer in a collet, It must be fitted in the same location every time otherwise you don't take into account your own spindle runout. Secondly you need a tenth dial gauge (on the .200" ball) to centre the probe, which should have virtually no pressure at all to show its indication. Once set in this way you will have no diviation at all, but you may need to re adjust the dial to zero. I have two of these on both my mills and once setup properly you will be within tenths NOT thousands. The other thing I will point out is that if you don't try to do this on centre you are risking deviation on the curvature pressure.

Thanks for the view Mike. Happy Easter. Regards.