Thanks Dave, great tip. I like the term instrument screws for the smaller sizes, i spent my working life in the construction industry where we called bolts less than 3/4” (20mm) “watchmakers bolts”.
At 6:24 yes some of us Americans call it a flathead, others call it countersink. The drive of yours was Phillips. Some rare people call it a crosspoint. And the straight slot in the top screws are usually called flathead. And since screws were nearly all flathead / slotted screws back around 60 years ago most old timers called the flat bladed screwdriver a flathead screwdriver. And it basically just stuck. Anyway I just found this channel. Well done. Thank you The best thing we can do with a lifetime of knowledge, tips, and tricks is to share them. Taking it to the grave makes it worthless.
Hello and thanks for the view and this excellent comment. Your American words of wisdom may also help out others that are often confused by some American Terminology. I know at times you catch me out when mentioning something, that I know as something different. I know it as a SLOTDRILL you and other Countries know it as a Two Flute Endmill. Like you call the car part a Trunk, we call it Boot, you call it Hood and we call it Bonnet. LOL Regards.
I did a tapping exercise like that as an apprentice. 50 years later Dave comes along and shows me how to use it! Mine was all BSW, so I'll have to do the M-thing. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Dave, thanks for watching. These days I find that 1 inch screws cost the same as 1/2 inch, so why not buy 1 inch and cut to any length shorter. Regards.
I had to shorten a couple dozen M3 screws to replace the thumbscrews in my micrometers with, I just grabbed them with a 3 jaw drill chuck held in a milling vise with a couple v blocks and off I went with an end mill. It was a remarkably fast way to do it. If a screw fell down into the chuck I'd blow it out with an air gun.
Nice one Dave been using that method for years, the simple ideas are always the best, keep passing your knowledge on there's always people out there needing it to learn this hobby we do. take care Kev uk
Hi Kev, funny how great minds think alike. Glad you have been using the idea too. Was not my idea, was shown it as an apprentice 56 Years ago. Regards.
Very handy.....back in the day I had a collection of split nuts that I drilled out and used them to hold various diams of screws (and tubing) without danaging the threads......mostly for reducing the length of a screw by a MM or two.......there is a device called a lantern chuck that does the same thing but is more tedious to make......you'll find most of these tools in the boxes of the old timers after they go to rest and someone who gets lucky wonders what they were for. Anyone make machine jacks with a nut and bolt?
Hello Ian, thanks for this comment, nuts work OK if you need thread a lot longer that the depth of a nut. Also using a nut can be problematic if the screw is shorter than the length of your chuck jaws AND the head is larger that the nut. Seen it and done it with the nut and bolt jack as a quick get me out of trouble jack. Regards.
Hi Dave. Now that is a great idea. I must remember that one. Letter stamping would look better than insulation tape. Even better, make an engraver 😉. Looking forward to some high quality footage. No pressure! All the best. Andrew
Hi Andrew, thanks for the view, the block will just go into a drawer now as I said on the video I am a 50 Year PLUS Long Screw Saw Off Merchant. Old habits die hard. Regards.
Great tip Dave, so simple but very effective. I have spent years faffing about trying to grip on 3 or 4 threads in the vice! Will definitely be making one of these. Cheers, Jon
Hi Randy, NO GOOD as a tap guide as it is already threaded. You would need just a plain clearance hole as a tap guide. Thanks for your view and comment. Regards.
I wonder if you could use a hard and sharp cold chisel to shear off the excess? The threaded plate would need to be made of hardened steel too but I think it could work...
Hi Charlie, thanks for the view and your comment. Shearing could be a possibility, but the cost and effort of a hardened tapped plate would be quite prohibitive. Also too the end of the bolt would be quite nasty and still need a sand or file. Probably for the few times it would be used, use a soft tapped plate and hacksaw and finish file or if you feel lucky try a belt sander but it will wear the plate. Regards.
@@daveticehurst4191 Thanks for the reply Dave. Yeah your right that the threads could be a bit of a sticking point (literally). Still, if the plates hardened it might be able to double as a crude thread reformer as the screws removed, even if it does leave a bit of a rough edge. I’m kinda curious now, I might try it if I get another batch of parts hardened. I’ll post a follow up if I get round to it anytime soon.
Thanks Dave, great tip. I like the term instrument screws for the smaller sizes, i spent my working life in the construction industry where we called bolts less than 3/4” (20mm) “watchmakers bolts”.
Thanks for the view Barry. Enjoy your retirement. Regards.
At 6:24 yes some of us Americans call it a flathead, others call it countersink. The drive of yours was Phillips. Some rare people call it a crosspoint. And the straight slot in the top screws are usually called flathead. And since screws were nearly all flathead / slotted screws back around 60 years ago most old timers called the flat bladed screwdriver a flathead screwdriver. And it basically just stuck.
Anyway I just found this channel. Well done. Thank you
The best thing we can do with a lifetime of knowledge, tips, and tricks is to share them. Taking it to the grave makes it worthless.
Hello and thanks for the view and this excellent comment. Your American words of wisdom may also help out others that are often confused by some American Terminology. I know at times you catch me out when mentioning something, that I know as something different. I know it as a SLOTDRILL you and other Countries know it as a Two Flute Endmill. Like you call the car part a Trunk, we call it Boot, you call it Hood and we call it Bonnet. LOL Regards.
Great idea, simple, easy and very useful when you need it, thanks for sharing!
Hello Bob, thanks for watching. Glad you found it useful. Regards.
I did a tapping exercise like that as an apprentice. 50 years later Dave comes along and shows me how to use it! Mine was all BSW, so I'll have to do the M-thing.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi Russell, glad I could show you how to use a tapping plate / exercise. Have Fun. Regards.
Thank you for yet another interesting and useful tip. 👏👏👍😀 Andrew
My pleasure Andrew, thanks for the view and comment. Regards.
Hello Dave,
I have not seen this one before... very good idea indeed... Thanks for sharing.
Take care.
Paul,,
Glad you enjoyed it Paul. Sometimes the simple tools are the best. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Cool tip! I do the same and only buy long screws, and I keep the cut offs to make set screws if needed
Hi Dave, thanks for watching. These days I find that 1 inch screws cost the same as 1/2 inch, so why not buy 1 inch and cut to any length shorter. Regards.
I had to shorten a couple dozen M3 screws to replace the thumbscrews in my micrometers with, I just grabbed them with a 3 jaw drill chuck held in a milling vise with a couple v blocks and off I went with an end mill. It was a remarkably fast way to do it. If a screw fell down into the chuck I'd blow it out with an air gun.
Hi there, thanks for the view and your comment about an alternative method. Regards.
Nice one Dave
been using that method for years, the simple ideas are always the best, keep passing your knowledge on there's always people out there needing it to learn this hobby we do.
take care
Kev uk
Hi Kev, funny how great minds think alike. Glad you have been using the idea too. Was not my idea, was shown it as an apprentice 56 Years ago. Regards.
Very handy.....back in the day I had a collection of split nuts that I drilled out and used them to hold various diams of screws (and tubing) without danaging the threads......mostly for reducing the length of a screw by a MM or two.......there is a device called a lantern chuck that does the same thing but is more tedious to make......you'll find most of these tools in the boxes of the old timers after they go to rest and someone who gets lucky wonders what they were for.
Anyone make machine jacks with a nut and bolt?
Hello Ian, thanks for this comment, nuts work OK if you need thread a lot longer that the depth of a nut. Also using a nut can be problematic if the screw is shorter than the length of your chuck jaws AND the head is larger that the nut. Seen it and done it with the nut and bolt jack as a quick get me out of trouble jack. Regards.
good video dave
Thanks for the view. Stay Tuned more to follow soon. Regards.
Hi Dave. Now that is a great idea. I must remember that one. Letter stamping would look better than insulation tape. Even better, make an engraver 😉. Looking forward to some high quality footage. No pressure!
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew, thanks for the view, the block will just go into a drawer now as I said on the video I am a 50 Year PLUS Long Screw Saw Off Merchant. Old habits die hard. Regards.
Great tip Dave, so simple but very effective. I have spent years faffing about trying to grip on 3 or 4 threads in the vice! Will definitely be making one of these. Cheers, Jon
Glad it helped Jon. Stay tuned for more. Regards.
Great tip Dave for model Makers, you could also use it for a tap guide I would think. Cheers
Hi Randy, NO GOOD as a tap guide as it is already threaded. You would need just a plain clearance hole as a tap guide. Thanks for your view and comment. Regards.
I wonder if you could use a hard and sharp cold chisel to shear off the excess? The threaded plate would need to be made of hardened steel too but I think it could work...
Hi Charlie, thanks for the view and your comment. Shearing could be a possibility, but the cost and effort of a hardened tapped plate would be quite prohibitive. Also too the end of the bolt would be quite nasty and still need a sand or file. Probably for the few times it would be used, use a soft tapped plate and hacksaw and finish file or if you feel lucky try a belt sander but it will wear the plate. Regards.
@@daveticehurst4191 Thanks for the reply Dave. Yeah your right that the threads could be a bit of a sticking point (literally). Still, if the plates hardened it might be able to double as a crude thread reformer as the screws removed, even if it does leave a bit of a rough edge. I’m kinda curious now, I might try it if I get another batch of parts hardened. I’ll post a follow up if I get round to it anytime soon.
@@charmio OK Charlie, your choice, thanks for the reply. Regards.
👍👍👍
Thanks for the view. Regards.