Glad to help, if you find some spare time, some of my other videos may also be of help, 55 Years of engineering knowledge hopefully being passed on. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Glad to help Randy. Watch Tom's video if you want to see the whole process from sawn stock to completion, including how to check for squareness. Regards.
Hello Paul. Yes it is so simple to do, should have found out about it 20 Years back instead of all the sodding about you have to do to get it right. Only found out less than 5 Years ago. If you do watch Tom's video you may even learn something else, especially the way he check for squareness. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Thanks Mike, glad you likes it. AND YES I am staying COOL as it is Autumn here now only 16 C today with a wind, needed a jumper on. LOL People often think that Australia is hot / warm all the time. Regards.
Dave, I watched all three videos. So basically you are machining a small register to start your machining process from. All sides are machined square to that initial register then. Thanks again for sharing, have a great day!
Hello Thanks for watching. NO to your question, you must have squared up the block from a sawn block as per the instructions shown by Tom Lipton, using rods to start with as nothing is flat or square. Then use either of my 2 shown methods to square up SIDE 5, this will give you a register. Depending which method you used, If you used the first one, needing the vice trammed in, you can tap it down onto a parallel, finish machining side 6, flip over and recut side 5. If you use the second demonstration no vice tram needed, but DO NOT tap the block. Finish side 6, flip over to recut side 5, you may tap the block down this time. It may be hard to understand is you have never machined a sawn block or casting before. I suggest give it a couple of days for it to sink in and perhaps watch Tom's Video again. All I did extra to Tom's operations was to show an alternative way to get a perpendicular face on side 5. Hope this helps, if not get back to me via E-mail and I will try and sort you out. Regards.
Hello Russell, thanks for the view. Tom's is the better one, he shows what I just did. Tony has a lot of gimmicks in his videos, and all he did was keep sodding about with bits of packing to try and get it right. Regards.
Hi Dave. I've come here via Jon's Workshop channel. Have subscribed to your channel and looking forward to your videos. Regards Kevin (ex POM living in New Zealand)
Welcome aboard Kevin. I hope that you will find some useful information amongst my assorted videos. I don't do machining videos, just hints and tips and a few show and tell ones. Enjoy. Regards.
Hi Dave Here via a recommendation of Mr Crispin Loved the video, very informative, I guess its easy when you know how. Look forward to seeing more, you have gained a subscriber from me.
Hi Dave , Great video mate ! I can highly recommend toms channel and his books - they are a gold mine of info . I use a different technique, i set up the piece in the vice and deck the top then machine a register around all four sides then flip the part so the machined top is against the solid jaw and use a parallel to register on the surface i machined around the outside .It is just a matter of deck the surface and flip in the x axis direction until all four surfaces are machined then flip in the y axis direction and deck the final surface . it think Joe pie showed this in one of his videos . Thanks for showing how to correctly de-burr a part without butchering it! i see so many times where someone has made apart then butchered it by running a file across the edge at 45 deg to de-burr it and all they have done is create a bevel that was not needed and raised more burrs on the edge opposite . For non critical stuff i use an old flat smooth file and lay it flat on the surface (the same as you did with the parallel with wet and dry) and this leaves a crisp edge - one tip here is to look at the teeth on the file and make sure the cutting action is inboard or towards the center of the part so it shears off the burr and doesn't roll it over the edge. Anyhow Dave thanks for another great video and i look forward to the next one !
Hello Ian, thanks for the view and your excellent reply and alternative way of machining the block. That method would indeed work fine, but you would still need to use a rod or ball between the sawn part and moving jaw for the 4 other cuts and your vice would need to dialled in unless you have plenty of oversize stock. Your way guarantees that the squareness of the part is as accurate as your machine slideways. I showed in a previous video how to machine a 6 sided block in only 2 vice moves, similar idea to yours, but my was was only suitable for small blocks. Restricted to the maximum length of the endmill. Regards.
Morning Dave from East Yorkshire. Very few old school toolmakers posting the basics on UA-cam, so most interesting. Many thanks for taking the time.
Glad to help, if you find some spare time, some of my other videos may also be of help, 55 Years of engineering knowledge hopefully being passed on. Thanks for watching. Regards.
That was the best tip I've seen this year. Thank you
Hi Roy, Glad it was helpful Thanks for watching. Regards.
Hi Dave this tip fits my way of thinking work smarter not harder. Thanks
Glad to help Randy. Watch Tom's video if you want to see the whole process from sawn stock to completion, including how to check for squareness. Regards.
came here because of a recommendation from Mr. Crispin,and found useful stuff
Hello Peter, thanks for watching. Glad to you found something of interest. Regards.
Hello Dave,
Spoken like a true Englishman "I've set it up on the wonk" - lol. Interesting video and quite simple to do, thank you.
Take care.
Paul,,
Hello Paul. Yes it is so simple to do, should have found out about it 20 Years back instead of all the sodding about you have to do to get it right. Only found out less than 5 Years ago. If you do watch Tom's video you may even learn something else, especially the way he check for squareness. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Two useful tips Dave, keep them coming mate. Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon, will do. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Nice addition to your "tips" series. Stay cool buddy, Mike
Thanks Mike, glad you likes it. AND YES I am staying COOL as it is Autumn here now only 16 C today with a wind, needed a jumper on. LOL People often think that Australia is hot / warm all the time. Regards.
Dave, I watched all three videos. So basically you are machining a small register to start your machining process from. All sides are machined square to that initial register then. Thanks again for sharing, have a great day!
Hello Thanks for watching. NO to your question, you must have squared up the block from a sawn block as per the instructions shown by Tom Lipton, using rods to start with as nothing is flat or square. Then use either of my 2 shown methods to square up SIDE 5, this will give you a register. Depending which method you used, If you used the first one, needing the vice trammed in, you can tap it down onto a parallel, finish machining side 6, flip over and recut side 5. If you use the second demonstration no vice tram needed, but DO NOT tap the block. Finish side 6, flip over to recut side 5, you may tap the block down this time. It may be hard to understand is you have never machined a sawn block or casting before. I suggest give it a couple of days for it to sink in and perhaps watch Tom's Video again. All I did extra to Tom's operations was to show an alternative way to get a perpendicular face on side 5. Hope this helps, if not get back to me via E-mail and I will try and sort you out. Regards.
I've seen both Tom and Tony's videos, but it's well worth repeating. Thanks, Dave.
Hello Russell, thanks for the view. Tom's is the better one, he shows what I just did. Tony has a lot of gimmicks in his videos, and all he did was keep sodding about with bits of packing to try and get it right. Regards.
Hi Dave. I've come here via Jon's Workshop channel. Have subscribed to your channel and looking forward to your videos.
Regards Kevin (ex POM living in New Zealand)
Welcome aboard Kevin. I hope that you will find some useful information amongst my assorted videos. I don't do machining videos, just hints and tips and a few show and tell ones. Enjoy. Regards.
Hi Dave
Here via a recommendation of Mr Crispin
Loved the video, very informative, I guess its easy when you know how.
Look forward to seeing more, you have gained a subscriber from me.
Hello Alan, welcome aboard, glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Hi Dave ,
Great video mate !
I can highly recommend toms channel and his books - they are a gold mine of info .
I use a different technique, i set up the piece in the vice and deck the top then machine a register around all four sides then flip the part so the machined top is against the solid jaw and use a parallel to register on the surface i machined around the outside .It is just a matter of deck the surface and flip in the x axis direction until all four surfaces are machined then flip in the y axis direction and deck the final surface . it think Joe pie showed this in one of his videos . Thanks for showing how to correctly de-burr a part without butchering it! i see so many times where someone has made apart then butchered it by running a file across the edge at 45 deg to de-burr it and all they have done is create a bevel that was not needed and raised more burrs on the edge opposite . For non critical stuff i use an old flat smooth file and lay it flat on the surface (the same as you did with the parallel with wet and dry) and this leaves a crisp edge - one tip here is to look at the teeth on the file and make sure the cutting action is inboard or towards the center of the part so it shears off the burr and doesn't roll it over the edge.
Anyhow Dave thanks for another great video and i look forward to the next one !
Hello Ian, thanks for the view and your excellent reply and alternative way of machining the block. That method would indeed work fine, but you would still need to use a rod or ball between the sawn part and moving jaw for the 4 other cuts and your vice would need to dialled in unless you have plenty of oversize stock. Your way guarantees that the squareness of the part is as accurate as your machine slideways. I showed in a previous video how to machine a 6 sided block in only 2 vice moves, similar idea to yours, but my was was only suitable for small blocks. Restricted to the maximum length of the endmill. Regards.
good video dave
Hi there, thanks for watching. Regards.