Відео

@@NS-tv7wi sure was!

Cheers! One of my best efforts!

Thanks Alan, that’s great to know. I’m a novice too, self taught and learning on every one. I’m just about to do a nice simple Rough Rider body, one colour only. Maybe I should do a video. It’s for the one I smashed up at Knox 3.0 recently.

@@broadband1820 Thanks mate, congratulations! Awesome kit to build, probably one of the trickiest to paint though with all the masking. I’ve never used an airbrush, rattle cans where ever possible then brushes for detail. If you take a look at my other Sand Scorcher paint video, which was done after this, I included the spraying in the video. Hope that helps and good luck with it!

@jason.bochniak Thanks for your help.

@ Any time Alan. Thanks for watching!

PS. Any idea why the lacquer effected the first paint job? It's good to know for future reference.

@@broadband1820 I’m certain it’s because I sprayed a heavy wet coat on which just reactivated the coats underneath. It’s best to do lots of light dry coats with time in-between to dry then one final wet coat to get the gloss.

Hi Karen, yes please, that would be great! You can email to me at: jason.bochniak@hotmail.com when you get a chance. Thank you!

@@russmilton4491 thanks Russ. The old decals are hard to find and they aren’t very sticky either. Mine are lifting and have creases here and there where they don’t stick down. They are super thin and not really flexible. RCdecals2 from the U.K. on eBay sell some decent reproduction versions if that helps. Paint sounds cool though. Good luck with it!

@@jason.bochniak Thanks for the heads up. I've used them before but couldn't find a Ranger set previously, They DO list it on their website & as I'm in the UK anyway, that's a win all round. Cheers mate & keep up the great Tamiya vids.

@@russmilton4491 no worries Russ, if I remember, he lists just one design but as you’ll know the MK1 & MK2 Ranger decals differ due to the front wheel arch dimensions being different so worth emailing him first. MCI in Canada list both options but I don’t think they are as good quality. I haven’t done any new builds recently, been to the vintage bash in Melbourne and bought an old 1/1 scale car which was been taking up my spare time. I do have a backlog of builds to do so will get on with them soon. Thanks again for the support!

@@NS-tv7wi cheers Nick!

@@NS-tv7wi Thanks Nick, yeah it’s lovely. Love, love, love the Rangers!

@@NS-tv7wi Hey Nick, thanks mate! Have a look at my Sand Scorcher paint videos, They came out really nice!

Will do 👍. By the way did you use the same knife for cutting out the transfers as you used for scoring the body ? If not what did you use to score the body

@ Hi Nick, yes same knife. It’s a standard hobby knife with the disposable scalpel blades. I always put a new blade in.

You are a Star. Cheers Jase

@@NS-tv7wi no worries mate, happy to help!

@@NS-tv7wi Hi thanks for watching. I’m no expert but happy to help. Yes it all fits in there but the wires need to be super neat to fit. It was the most fiddly one I’ve done. Motor choice depends on lots of factors but simply the lower the turns, the faster the motor but with that there is less torque, so i believe lower turn faster motors are best suited for on road, drift cars etc. You can then play with the pinion gear to get the right ratio for your application, as per the charts supplied with the motor etc. I use a Noble NB4 transmitter & Flysky FGR4S V2 Receiver. The new NB4+ or Noble pro are other options. They can come with 2 receivers, the small one with no antenna and the larger one with an antenna. I use the larger ones in my SRBs. You can have 20 models stored. I still struggle with it as I grew up with stick transmitters. My vintage RC’s use the old school radio gear. Hope that helps and hope you are subscribed, cheers!

@ . Thankyou so much, really appreciate the information. I subscribed after watching your quality video, it’s the least I could do. Maybe when I finally get round to the body and transfers I can send it over to you to sort that out for me 😂

@ Thanks, it is appreciated. I’m not monitised so don’t earn any money from these videos. The comments & chat keep me motivated. If I didn’t have such a backlog of projects, I’d be happy to help lol. I hadn’t done a clear body for so many years until this one, been mostly doing hard bodies. Lots of components but if you take your time, cut it all out, pre-drill and fit everything before painting, you’ll be fine. I’ve done a paint video for this one too. Lots of light coats is the key with time between to dry. Sorry, what’s your name? Are you in the U.K.?

Sound advice. I need to catch up on the rest of your videos 😉. Nick (Uk)

@ Thanks Nick. Have a good evening. Jase in Australia, originally from UK lol.

@@madanotsob yes

@@mivo7149 No worries! Which driver were you mate?

@@68burnout thanks Ruud

@@AddamsPlayground it’s back on the shelf, looking excellent! I wasn’t expecting him to do a logo design, he did similar on my shirt & cap too. It was a great event, heaps of people there loving it!

@@markconnor269 he’s such a nice guy. He signed lots of cars & merch for anyone who asked.

@@rcicons4915 yeah, was great. I think you were loving it too!

Yeah, it was an epic event and my first to attend!

If you are going to be driving off road and doing jumps then yes, I would say it will be useful. The slipper clutch is designed to absorb power from the motor and help save the drivetrain.

@ merci 🙏

@@ludovicdubois6449 Bonjour, merci d'avoir regardé. C'est super que vous ayez aimé jt et j'espère que cela vous sera utile lorsque vous construirez le même. C'est un très bon buggy à construire. Très différent de tous les autres kits Tamiya. Je serai heureux de vous aider si je peux!

@ merci 🙏

@@brittonguild188 Thank you. The vintage body shell sounds an awesome project. Sorry but I’m not sure what you mean about a push button clip?

@@vigilante351 mate, it’s insane!

@@coygtrc Thanks, no worries. Yeah I’ve never seen so many cool cars in one place!

@@AddamsPlayground Excellent! You’ll have at least 500 designs to choose from! 🤣

@@AddamsPlayground Yeah, he’s a really lovely guy. I wasn’t expecting custom artwork on the body either!

@@All_RC_Fun Indeed!

@@mivo7149 It’s incredible!

@@dannyseville2543 The Ruby Red sounds great Danny. I really struggled with it too, especially having 3 instruction manuals on the go. I must have rebuilt the truck at least 6 times! I picked the pre-painted one because I had other projects on the go and thought it might be a handful. Whilst building it, I was wishing I had just built it stock and maybe added the MFC after but to be honest I don’t think I’d want to dig back in to try and retro fit one. The tanker trailer will be the last bit. I’m off to the Knox Vintage bash tomorrow so hopefully get started on it after that. Thanks for watching and send me a photo of your truck if you like. Cheers!

SRB,S that is. Stupid text software

Thank you. Lots of time, patience and a lot of mistakes too. Each one is better than the last with practice. I started with the single colour ones like Buggy Champ and Fighting Buggy, then the Rangers with the extra black then attempted the mother of all paint jobs, the Sand Scorcher. Totally messed the red & yellow one up and had to start again. Annoying at the time but I learnt a lot from it. My top tips, if it’s any help are good preparation, sanding and priming with light sanding before top coats. Good neat masking with the right tapes, light coats of colour coats with one final heavier coat to finish. If you’re painting two tone, give the paint at least a week to harden before masking. Check the weather, make sure the humidity is low but warm enough and your paint is warm, I put mine in a bucket of hot water before painting and if you get any little bits in the paint, you can wet sand them out with 2-3000 grit sand paper then polish with either car body polish or use the proper Tamiya polishes and sponges, which I have just invested in and yet to try out. I’m planning to do a vintage blue and white version Buggy Champ with paint in the future. Good luck with your painting!

@@XBOXShawn12thman 100%! You must be in the USA because I heard @jackbuildsit use that term (sawsall) last week and didn’t know what it meant until the reciprocating saw came out to chop a car up lol!

@@jason.bochniak LMAO 🤣🤣🤣 .... Yes I am in the USA

@@XBOXShawn12thman Cool 😎! Thanks again for watching my first video mate, it’s terrible lol. Part 4 is OK, I spent a bit of time on the chassis build video.

@@jason.bochniak I just got a new Tamiya Blackfoot and I bought larger Monster truck tires for it .... I put pics on my community page that shows the wheels 😁

@@XBOXShawn12thman awesome, I just found your channel and subscribed, model trains right?Where’s the monster truck!

Thanks for the advice and I think you’re right. I also spent along time adjusting the diff and wondering if it was doing anything. I may also change it back to standard after the event which is only a few days away.

@jason.bochniak yes its better. Drove it already a couple of times with the Axle again, and its just much better overall performance.

@ ok cool. I’m at Knox right now, will be testing very soon!

Thank you! It took many hours, good preparation is the key, good luck with your paint job. What colour scheme are you doing?

@@jason.bochniak I think for this one i will take a more minimalist look - like an S31 dark grey overall.

@@rpcclo that will look great, and no masking!

Awesome! It will be a few weeks before I make any new content, but there’s a few more you can checkout if you like SRB’s, paint videos and other Tamiya stuff. Thanks a lot, the support is much appreciated!

@@jason.bochniak I just got the 2016 re-make Blackfoot and I bought new BKT monster truck tires for it .... I posted it on my community page if you want to see the wheels I got for it. They are bigger then the stock ones

@@TheBusracer I’m 53, awesome memories hey? Please check my other vids where it gets fully finished! Thanks for watching Steve!

@jason.bochniak Sure Jason I will be watching thanks bud..

@@TheBusracer thanks mate, they do get a bit better lol. I’m not a professional 🤣

@@Droidy77 Cheers, that’s the first thing I checked before charging and going again, it was already set for Life/NIMH. I’ll stick with the 2s shorty, lots of power and runtime!

@@jason.bochniak woohoo!

@@amberarc6749 it shouldn’t be? I tightened it to the point where the spur gear will not slip whilst holding the wheel when assembled.

@@jason.bochniak i have the same diff in the sand scorcher. have just setted it like this, so that one tire sometimes spins in the opposite direction and sometimes doesnt. So it most times still grips both in same direction, when turning one tire. But when turned very slowly yeah it should spin in opposite direction.

@@amberarc6749 you may have it tightened too much. If you over tighten, you can damage the bearings and the plates. It should turn the opposite wheel freely in the opposite direction. This is because when one side is turning, it makes the planetary ball bearings spin. This then makes the plate on the other side of the diff turn in the opposite direction.

​​@@jason.bochniakyeah i just drove it today for pretty much first time and saw that its little bit to tight. I have just loosened it with the 1.5mm allen wrench Nut place, where its possible to adjust the diff in build in place. Now it also spins in opposite direction almost any time. The reason i had it too tight is because at first i had it too loose and it would slip all time like a slipper clutch 😅

Thanks Trey, these electrical components are so delicate, especially the pre-soldered joints to the switches. I wish they’d make them more durable.

@@AddamsPlayground I bet it’s the electrical terminals. I had to solder them

Thanks! Was just a mini project before I can get onto the tanker. It’s going to be a few weeks before I can start it, especially with the Knox Vintage Bash trip coming up so sorry for the wait in advance. Trust me, I’m itching to get into it too!

@@EMPTYPOCKETSRC The wiring definitely needed soldering. Just wrapping the wires around the terminals made for loose connections and would not work properly.

3 and a bit weeks and you’ll be here mate!

@@alantaylor353 yeah, my best effort to date, came out lovely!

@@alantaylor353 Hi Alan and thank you. Very much appreciated, and g’day from Australia! 🇦🇺

Thanks Mark, glad you liked it!

Thank you! That’s exactly it! The sound and the feel takes you right back, that’s one of the reasons I changed my mind to take it.

I can’t believe I actually sold my original SRB Rough Rider to buy the Hornet years ago but hey, I was only 13 at the time! They are great fun, and really basic. Nostalgia plays a big part for me. I’m not bothered if I come last Lol. Yeah, I hope the diff stays together too mate!

@@jason.bochniak i never had the tamiya’s when i was little. So im now making up for it 😂

@@lo2713 Glad to hear you’re making up for it now! I only had the two growing up. Combined birthday and Christmas presents from all family chipping in. They were so expensive.

@@noidnomis I’ve never had one either, I think it’s worth doing even though you have to strip it all to bits. I’ll just have to see how it goes, i’m guessing they don’t last forever and need maintenance. Also there’s the plastic gear in between as a weak point. I did have to adjust the diff, it was too tight with 1/8 turn. Let me know how you go with yours!

@@jason.bochniak Good to know! I will have a look for a set. I don't recall every having to replace a plastic gear that I know of and I used to really thrash on the runner I had back then. Going full on reverse while going full speed forward on an asphalt surface. I did make a complete brass gear set as a project in a machine shop class while in high school, I never actually used it though. I was under the impression that using all brass gears under such high loads would make them wear faster, so said the teacher, but mind you that was with no digital measuring done on an analog milling machine made from who knows what kind of brass material, which might be why the teacher said that. I'll have to do some research..

You are probably right mate. If you have all metal, you’re adding weight and stress to other parts. The plastic gears are nice and cheap too. They do disintegrate with age though, which I guess is expected. When I restored the old MK2 Ranger some of the teeth fell off in my hands from that middle gear. Luckily I found a new old stock set. Sorry to ask, but what is your name mate, I can never find it!