Відео

Just bought a 2014 tdi with 210 000kms on it. Bought the whitebread cp4 prevention kit for it. Went to replace my fuel filter right after buying the car, and low and behild, there was a bit of metal flakes on the filter. SMH. Looks like I will be flushing the lines, and rail, then installig the kit and cat filters. Thanks for vid.

I tried that with a egr from a 2002 Jetta tdi but after 3 hrs of running my heater shut off and I had to clean it than it tried with another diesel heater and same thing how many hrs have u ran it like this

That's one awkward nasty access job, you defiantly need to think out of the box to access the bolt head

You sir are a saint, thanks for all the info

Temporary. …. Insert Dr.evil “RIGHT”

Lots of good info in this video thank you, for warned is for armed very useful

Hi, enjoyed this video as l have a VW Golf Mk6 1.6 tdi here in the UK. Please may l ask for any purchase info you have on the engine support bar you used. As l feel l would like to have one of these

Interesting info on the timing belt year of manufacture, l will be looking at mine

Brill all the shit I need toknow

Will this work on any? I have a LF Bros split T2

Can you send a link to where you bought the timing kit? I am in Canada as well

Very nice job

Can you cancel the factory controller, and use a home thermostat only with 3 wires? (Red black blue)

I put a radiator of a out door wood burner on my exhuast and it sinks away all the excess heat. The out put from the radiator is room temp. But i have a fan that blows though the radiator and it works awesome. Old water all metal radiators would work too. None of that plastic stuff.

Hello Josh. Unsure of how else to contact you. I have just purchased the same equipment as in this video. I have both ecu's for a V10TDI. Is IMMO in both ecu's? Is there a way to identify master and slave with this equipment? Thinking, if only master has IMMO that would identify it. I am a subscriber (and long suffering mechanic) and appreciate your "real world" approach.

Fck the law do what see fit my friends.

any idea of the part number of the black seal on the turbo where you've taken the pipe off? i've lost mine :(

Your flow of liquid too fast should slow it down .. pumpe too big

Y si pudieras el radiador enfrente de la salida de la calefacción? Así aprovechas el ventilador

There's a major reason by the Bureck works better than that 2-relay system. That 2-relay system does nothing more than shorts the on/off button on the controller. It has no way to know if the unit is actually on or off. The Bureck works because it's using radio frequency and knows the hidden codes for ON and OFF. So it's not just shorting the one, on/off button. It's sending an actual ON signal and actual OFF signal to the unit. If I do order my unit and if it doesn't already have this built in (supposed it's the "upgraded" version with temperature control) I'll investigate if anyone who does Arduino/ESP32 projects has figure out how to tap into the radio signal and "pair" to the remote. Then, a really nice project can be developed.

My daughter had a p2002 code with her 2012 TDI Jetta she had to replace particular filter in past with dealer. She’s looking to fix and sell. She does not drive long distances. If you have any info that would help. Thx u

Would jumping it off the connector still work if I changed the aux fuel pump?

Having the engine support bar and engine hoist makes this so much easier even on the smaller O2j saves a wrestling match.

I am still learning what to do in preparation for the delete. Great tutorial! Question on the egr’s though. All that I really need to do is the EGR blocker plates and the delete tune, and leave everything plugged in, correct? I would rather just drive up to BC with cash and have it done while I enjoy your area in a rental car. However, I am concerned about going back south and crossing the border with my old components.

Josh, as a electronics/computer technician, I do need to correct you one something. Those wires that you connected to the remote are not sending 5V to the remote. You'll notice that when the units "click" and their LED comes on, that's a relay engaging. The wires you connected are attached to those relays. When the relays "turn on" (led on), it literally shorts the 2 wires together. This acts like the switch. When you press a button on the remote, it shorts the the 2 lines going to it and the heater's controller knows then that the button is pressed. From what I'm seeing here, when one of those units turns their LED on and energizes the relay and it remains lit, that means that it's the same as pushing the button on the remote and holding it down. As long as that LED is on and the relay is on, it's a constant "hold" on the remote's button. The issue there, while it may not mess up functionality of the heater, it will drain the battery in the remote quickly. I don't know if you can configure those units, so that when the turn on the relay, that you can tell it to only do so for perhaps 2-4 seconds then release. That would be the same as pressing the button, which I'm seeing, really only needs one quick press and release to turn it on. I'm not sure if you have 2 wires on the "on" button and 2 wires on the "off" button. I hope that's how that remote works. But the battery will drain quickly when on for so long.

With what I've just seen, for those who know how, it seems that it would be really easy to design an Arduino or better yet, ESP32 device to do this job. If all it has to do is short the switch once to turn on then short again to turn off, that's really easy. Perhaps there's a point too where one could tap into that has a logic line that could be used to confirm that the heater is on or off. The coding would be very easy. In fact, I suspect the code I just finished for a project that monitors the temperature inside of our tall palm tree structure, could be moded for this. What it does, is monitor the temperature at the top (approx. 12 feet up) and the temperature at the lower side (about 1.5 feet off the ground. When the temp at the top hits 30C (or whatever I set it to on the display) the top fan, "exhaust fan" turns on, opens a vent to expel the really hot air on a sunny day. When the temperature goes below my "lower trigger point" the fan turns off. When this fan turns on, it also turns on the "circulating" fan. This is a fan that is located low and has a 6" diameter hose (like a dryer hose) that goes to the top. This circulates the air. When the exhaust fan is not needed, like on cold days/nights, the code monitors the 2 temperature sensors and if the difference between the 2 is greater than say, 2C, then the circulating fan only turns on in order to balance the temperature top and bottom. I can easily see this code being modified to work with this and it uses a really nice Nextion display, which could show trends and thigns. I'm close to ordering my unit (supposedly the "upgraded" version with Bluetooth) but when I reached out to Vevor about ordering a 2nd remote (to be used for the above) they said that they don't sell that separately. Other comments I got was to use the app and the smart phone. LOL So this video is encouraging to make this device, if the unit I ordered doesn't really have a thermostat. The thing is, those with this unit do say that this new controller does have the thermostat, that you set to an actual temperature and the heaters operates like a furnace..... on and off... but who knows!?

For the cost I just put two heaters in my sled trailer. But I would like to recover the exhaust heat. I was thinking either a small radiator with a fan or use a copper pipe with heat sink fins on it. Thanks for sharing your idea.

Thoughts on the Stevenson tunes and delete kits. I noticed that you didnt include them yet they are typically mentioned in other forums

Im telling myself as you're on the turbo at the end, I'd just weld that thing, and then you say that. Now welding that casting probably wont be a ton of fun but I can manage.

great video! did you have to do dsg adaptation through VCDS?

Attempted to purchase but Shopify or PayPal disallows shippyto my location. Sent you an email.

what size torque bit are those 2 tiny screws? to take the blinker off

В моем туре 2009 года нашел проблему в фарах , на проводке осыпалась изоляция и контакты замыкали но ошибок небыло , только один раз когда замкнуло сильно выскочила ошибка. Компютором не снималась, решение ремонт фары и установка biled linz . Да если кому нужно поменять проводку на алиэкспресс есть жгут проводов цена 50$.

Also doing this job this weekend. Thanks for the tips!! LUK doesn’t bag the pilot bearing and I had more cardboard fibres than grease in mine. I had to wait for a replacement from the dealer.

i had my coworker do mine second week of november after having the noise since feburary

Perfect timing! I'm literally doing this exact job this weekend.

Hey man, love your videos. I have a 2011 Sportwagen that i just did the DPF "replacement". Ive been hearing that sound ever since i bought it, I thought it was one of those noises that diesels make lol. My question is what are the risks of not replacing the DM flywheel?

Nice job getting that done in a day. I need to do this to a 13 Jetta w/135K miles that I picked up for my son as it was bought with a noisy DMF. Was that the Rock Auto available LUK DMF126 you used? Did you end up having to cut the outer hub off the flywheel to get to the bolts (I had a 05 Golf that it was so twisted the only rescue was an angle grinder and cutoff wheel). Fortunately my 12 Passat is only just starting to make a little noise at 225k miles so I can wait on it, lol.

Damm that’s a heck of a job by yourself.. I really enjoy your videos Josh bc I myself am doing everything alone and I’ve learned so much from your content on the TDI JSW .. the DPF went in great .. but I’m not sure I’d be able to tackle DMF .. well maybe .. I think I’m gonna check out that kit bc I’m hearing a similar sound on start up.. just been putting it off .. I think it’ll be a summer project

Is there two different size bolts for the transmission? Seen some videos where someone put a hole through their block because the bolts were different length.

KESS3? Dealer for Malone/tunezilla now?

I gotta say thank you for all the videos you put out on the v10, just finished the kessy repair and you saved me hundreds of dollars. I’ve used at least 5 of your videos to repair issues on my v10 and I probably wouldn’t have been able to without your videos. Thanks again Josh!

Hope you changed the rear main seal :)

Why cant you just put a resistor in maf?

once you have a bolt on the bottom and it almost all the way on - pushing from the drivers wheel well helps get it on the last bit.

Got a CKRA and im removing the egr cooler completely. noticed the egr gases flow through the cylinder head, and im wondering do i need to block off both sides? or is it just a port specific for the egr gases, do the exhaust ports connect inside the head?, like can i just leave it open?

Hi, your video is very informative, would you please put a video for how to remove the cover and remove obd socket and the light

I like the air intake mod

Good morning Josh, A question for you. I’m getting my computer ecu flashed to not operate with the system. Where you said to hollow out the DPF and cat with a drill bit or just straight piping it, I was told I could leave all other components in place such as EGR, SCR, the adblu tank. With the flash, it would code out those. Would I need to do anything else or remove anything other than DPF system?

• Grade 316: Best for corrosion resistance, including rust prevention, particularly in harsh environments. • Grade 304: Adequate for most general uses but less resistant to rust than 316. • Grade 409: Prone to rust in comparison to 304 and 316 due to lower chromium and nickel content.