@@PaintSocietyPLEASE HELP. Ive watched your alot of your videos on paint guns but I am still confused on what to get for my project. Im looking for a hvlp spray gun that will spray both basecoat and clear coat. Can you please recommend a few options. I would like to stay around the $500 price range if thats possible
@@ghettohey2388when I first got into this I bought a 14 dollar sprayer for harbor freight and honestly it will spray primer, base, and clear just fine with a 1.4 but each of these sprayers has an advantage and disadvantage. If you don't have a big compressor I'd recommend the r500 lvlp gun, the one on Amazon with a 1.3, 1.5, 1.7 & 2.0. use your 2.0 or 1.7 for the primer, 1.7 or 1.5 for your base, and 1.3 for your clear. 1 gun with different nozzles and it will come out beautifully. Hvlp's are awesome and the biggest advantage is that you hardly have any over spray and very little waste of your paint. Your disadvantage to an hvlp is most guys don't have a compressor but enough. The other disadvantage is some guys say there is too much orange peel with an hvlp, where you don't have that as bad with a conventional old school sprayer, the ones that had overspray everywhere😂, but they sprayed flat hence why they came out with an hte sprayer which is like a hybrid of an hvlp and conventional old school. The orange peel isn't as bad as you would get with an hvlp gun so a lot of guys like hte for base coats and clear coats. Lvlp is kinda like an hte gun from what I understand, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not really sure what your disadvantage of a lvlp or the would be
I seldom ever leave comments, but I wanted to say thank you for the videos. I'm a primarily self-taught painter that has had a local retired painter help me along the way from time to time. I have owned and operated an auto body repair shop for a few years now. I've learned different techniques and tips from your videos that have improved my painting. Keep up the great content, it's appreciated more than you know.
@@PaintSociety It's true- you and the Gunny have vastly helped me improve from the siphon guns of the 70's to the gravity guns of today and all the new materials. My favorite uTube pastime!!!
Now that blend is simply AWESOME. I've watched your vid's for a while, and doing paint in my own garage I've made more mistakes than people sin. Learning with useful info surely helps.
Thank you! First off thanks for being a fan for a long time, and you got that right mistakes are the only way we really learn, glad to help as many people as I can
@@PaintSociety Seeing as how I am going to be retiring soon, I thought maybe a painting gig could bring in some extra green, then found out it just is not as easy as it seems.
@@anonimous2451 honestly it’s one of those gigs that you do on your own for fun because it can be very frustrating when you’re trying to learn, but also very rewarding when things go well
Funny to see such a small adjustment make such a big difference. I typically paint motorcycles so tubular frames, small panels with a lot of shapes & corners. My gun is never (or rarely) set to full fan/full fluid nor is the tip set to spray horizontally. There are many times when my fan is almost a circle in order to get into small voids. And I'm changing the fan & fluid pattern constantly while I'm painting. This is just another great video showing how dynamic you need to be when painting. Thanks Brian!!
Great video once again. Like the explanations of adding the mid coat to the base base then use of blend additive. Ironically just explained the use of air cap to my high school students so I will be showing them this video when we get to spot repair techniques. Generally have my friend mix my spot repair colors on his mixing bank because the two part stores in my very rural area only sell generic line paint and the match on a color like this would be a complete disaster.
I think your channel is perfect! The of the level of consistency through the explanations. I can sit through and not have an ounce of boredom and really learn. While searching for channels to grow in the auto repair scene, Paint Society has taught me more in a single video than hundreds of channels I've searched. Paint Society also remove many fears that were holding me back and gave me understanding with so much clarity . You may not know, Paint Society, you've allowed a dormant seed to sprout. With that, Thank you Paint Society. Continue what you do best! Remember, It's just paint.
I do something similiar except after my sealer and wet bed I mix my Basecoat and top coat 2:1 to get my foundation then I blend out with my top coat. I learned that trick from Romario Chambers I dm’ed him and he told me to try it this way because I painted a Chevy Blazer and the paint code was 252F cherry bomb red and my blend areas came out blotchy from struggling trying to blend. I will definitely try the vertical adjustment for sure
Thank you Brain!! You help me a lot ! My name is Marco I’m from Bronx NY ! I need to told you that you are a good man and God Blessed you!! Keep making more videos because person like me we keep watching you thanks again!!😊
I haven’t sprayed in a body shop for over 30 years . Pearlescent paints or 3 stage were quite rare ! Sprayed my daughters Mazda cx3 outside .. The whole side , bonnet and wing ! They was a learning curve lol ! Took the bonnet off the car and sprayed upright , it was very windy and pressure was a fraction to high ( and I had a hangover ) the bonnet ended up being patchy. … Is what it is … not easy spraying outside , remember spraying in booth … So much easier !
Just a tip but put some foam tape into the door edge before u put sealer, then pull it off after. Most times paint overspray wont get in as far as sealer does.
Turning the tip is a old school trick Laquer painting guys would do back in the covered wagon days when spotting in little areas in tricky places on a car or truck
Hey Brian. I saw in the intro your shirt was soaked. Nice cool 100 degree evening in Florida?😂. Hope you and family are safe after Helene. The vehicle came out amazing. Looks stunning in the sun.
That was the second shirt by 10am lol. It was 98 in the booth when I started painting. Helene gave us a day off from school and some downed branches. It was a nice little break for us. Thanks for the comment Jim !
I want to say thank you for all your videos, they helped me so much painted my 1st, a Jag MDZ color (Silver Metallic) and looks great cuz of you and Rex at ColorVision Spfld, MO!
Great videos. A little request would be some info, maybe in one of the corners on actual time (so we could see the intervals), temperature, humidity, Etc.
Would u say the dv1 is the best gun for base coat and what set up would u recommend After a new gun been using the 3m one for base and primer I use iawata series 2 for clear which is quality Thanks
I finish with my blends using the top of the fan. There is less overspray. That red car I would of kept the cap turned up and down for a better blend. On a blend panel that has curves like blending into a fender or quarter. I paint in a circular motion using the top of the fan for my final blend coats. I too will thin my final coats to reduce the harsh edge and finish with a drop coat blend to get the metallics on silver ,light golds and light blues. Using the top of the fan to cut the overspray down gets me the seamless blends that I look for. The last 3 young painters that I have shown this technique to have improved there blending finishes to undetectable on most of their jobs. Surprised more painters haven't picked up on this. Started my career in 1971 and now just help the young bucks( been sick 3 times from the paint game).
@PaintSociety I started doing this 1985 because I didn't like how dark my golds were coming out. Typical blends show good color and motility control until you see a dark vertical band with a darker blend with motiling. By arching your gun in a circular motion you eliminate any rainbow and motility in the blend. Of course color must not be too red or green or gold and not too dark( with the correct size metallic even if you have to change that a little). I was able to blend the hoods only using the first 6-9 inches of the hood on silvers, golds, pearl whites and have them undetectable from any angle. Play around with it. The pattern doesn't have to be a circle as long as you use the top of the fan. With this technique I have been able to blend in as little as 4 inches blending the first couple of coats and sand with 1,000 or 1,200 wet or dry. Then thin the paint for the final blend keeping any color off the edge of the tape line. I think you will be very happy with the results. I telltale young bucks to plan out your primer areas( keeping them small as possible) and where you can hide the blend areas in the the curved panels as well as where you might get a run or sag. So you know where to back off a bit. P.s Have you rried System 51 polish for your cut and buffs. Does not break down and gray out your clear coat blacks. It can be hand rubbed with no hazing or swirls. Use a micro finish cloth wet and rung out. Water base so even if bakes in the cracks for a day in the hot sun. It will pressure wash right out without staining the paint.You can find it online. Watch the instruction video. Helped my buddy get his Sema car ready in 2007 using this product. He told me they never would have finished in time without it. Does not stain moldings or rubbers. Well, past my bedtime for these old bones.😉
@PaintSociety p.s keep your gun square to the panel on the blends and not fan it out. People tell me I shoot like a robot. That's what it takes to duplicate those factory robots
@@PaintSociety I was in New Zealand at the time working on rich men's cars.. so using mostly Glasurit products. We had educators from Europe come over and show us the how to with three layer Pearls... and we got to beat up the panels before repairing and refinishing. That was fun. We were the first to import HVLP gravity feed guns in various sizes for different layers, and when I returned to Australia 4 years later no one had heard of HVLP guns other than the old pressure vessel type.
I sprayed a bicycle with metalic blue with added mica elpoxy pigment it took about 8 coats and if you look close you can still see mottling i guess epoxy pigment aint ment to be added to spray paint i was putting about 1/2 teaspoon to oz
I bought primer with hardener... it is suposed to be a surfacer primer. But it seams to be to thick for my setup. it comes out to patchy and i have to move close to get it somewhat nice and wet. Today im going to corect it with sand paper and reaply. But this time im going to reduce it acetone.. about 10 percent. Ho smart or.. not smart is it to use pure acetone? By the way this is my first paintjob ever. I was so scared to do it. Bu had plenty of material and a fender i can mes around. At the end of the work i thoutgh to myself.. dont worry.. its just paint :D Thank u for what u are doing here!
Brian, wanted to ask you a technical question. I have almost finished my 1st attempt at painting an entire car. I painted my 69 Camaro black which I knew would stretch my ability. My question is around orange peal in my clear coat. My tech sheet for my paint says PSI should be between 25 and 40. Being one never willing to give up I solved my orange peal by spraying 4 coats of clear and cutting/buffing to a nice finish. You always seem to spray clear at a much lower PSI than 25. I haven't tried going lower (yet). My biggest concern is the cost of clear is HIGH, and the time it takes to make the job look good is a problem. I'm using the Astro Eurohe103 for clear. Any recommendations you could provide would be much appreciated.
But lowering PSI around 23-26, you will have more fluid going on the panel instead of air drying up that fluid in the form of overspray before it hits the panel. Slow down the passes and lower the psi a little and watch what the clear is doing. 😀
Geniune question. This is the first time I saw your sprayed base coat looked blochy/patchy right before clear. Like the sprayed area looked different than original paint. I thought it should always look super smooth like satin. I deal with same problem on various colors especially black. Is that a normal thing? Clear covers it up? Because clear does not cover up silver metallic blotchyness, so why this color?
Can you do a video where you paint a car using some paint from the waste barrel to tint some base and spray sumn with it for a jungle juice paintjob. I just think that would be hilarious to see.
Brian or anyone viewing this: if you have a traditional gun washer, start putting your pps cups in there. Yeah they come out a little spotty but it keeps that loose junk off of there.
@@PaintSociety I just wasn’t sure what it was. I am actually going to paint the bumper on my truck to repair some scratches and know I need to blend it. First time trying this so it should be interesting.
Do u have any videos about beginner compresors? I bought myself silent non oil compresor about 13 gal. It gets realy hot and produces alot of water in my filters. Although i have lvlp the preshure drops slowly after like 1.5 mins of use. But suply preshure is much higher than my 20-30psi... so im clules why it starts to drop. :(
As a sole trading bodyshop I would quite happily pass on a car that came in with this repair and colour ,I’ve painted it once and that was enough for me it’s not worth the hassle and there’s plenty other repairs to fill the gap
@@PaintSocietyyou will love the Spies! I spray Standox water which is the same as Spies. It will be so much faster than your Sickens. However I have to say the new 100 line from BASF looks really good as well.
I'm getting famous for my horrible paint jobs. Cause when they see beautiful work like yours, they still ask, "Who did this gorgeous paint job?". But when people see my work, they immediately know who did it! With my paint jobs, I schedule an appraisal date, a primer date, and a paint date. Then when my customer sees the job, they schedule a court date.
@@PaintSociety I love your videos, even though I can't remotely consider myself a painter. I like to lighten things up and hopefully give some people a little laughter in the process. Thanks for all the great videos!
that colour like mazda 46v code, this colour is very hard to spray ,I made a mistake once and sprayed too much and the color turned darker，and most of the time it’s hard to get the color right if you don’t spray it with other parts.
Back to using a real Devilbiss I see rather than that chinese copy shit. I really like Devilbiss DV1-B. Especially for metallics and pearls. IMO the Dv1's and the ANI 200 Skull Edition that comes with 3 different air caps are about the best guns out there. I have been putting a lot of time in with the ANI lately. Not crazy about the skulls on the body and would sooner it be all black but the performance is good enough for me to deal with the cosmetics. Digital guage on it works awsome too
@@PaintSocietyfor a budget gun I feel Porphis made in Taiwan is about the best budget guns out there. I have a couple and suprised in how well they work for the price and they are Sata type clones for the most part as far as the body but with features that are different. Taiwan is a little better than china made stuff. You should do a review on one, will suprise you
is that the new Iwata Supernova you cleared with? I know you like Iwata's. Does it make a lot of overspray like the original Supernova clear gun did or is it a little better now?
That intro hurt my feelings
Had to Pin this 😇😇😇
@@PaintSocietyPLEASE HELP. Ive watched your alot of your videos on paint guns but I am still confused on what to get for my project. Im looking for a hvlp spray gun that will spray both basecoat and clear coat. Can you please recommend a few options. I would like to stay around the $500 price range if thats possible
@@ghettohey2388when I first got into this I bought a 14 dollar sprayer for harbor freight and honestly it will spray primer, base, and clear just fine with a 1.4 but each of these sprayers has an advantage and disadvantage. If you don't have a big compressor I'd recommend the r500 lvlp gun, the one on Amazon with a 1.3, 1.5, 1.7 & 2.0. use your 2.0 or 1.7 for the primer, 1.7 or 1.5 for your base, and 1.3 for your clear. 1 gun with different nozzles and it will come out beautifully.
Hvlp's are awesome and the biggest advantage is that you hardly have any over spray and very little waste of your paint. Your disadvantage to an hvlp is most guys don't have a compressor but enough. The other disadvantage is some guys say there is too much orange peel with an hvlp, where you don't have that as bad with a conventional old school sprayer, the ones that had overspray everywhere😂, but they sprayed flat hence why they came out with an hte sprayer which is like a hybrid of an hvlp and conventional old school. The orange peel isn't as bad as you would get with an hvlp gun so a lot of guys like hte for base coats and clear coats. Lvlp is kinda like an hte gun from what I understand, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not really sure what your disadvantage of a lvlp or the would be
I seldom ever leave comments, but I wanted to say thank you for the videos. I'm a primarily self-taught painter that has had a local retired painter help me along the way from time to time. I have owned and operated an auto body repair shop for a few years now. I've learned different techniques and tips from your videos that have improved my painting. Keep up the great content, it's appreciated more than you know.
Thats awesome. What a pleasure for me to be able to help you even without even knowing you!
Same goes for me Brian.
I wouldn't be at the stage that I am without your videos.
Keep up the good work 👍
@@Carl-l5b love to hear this!
@@PaintSociety It's true- you and the Gunny have vastly helped me improve from the siphon guns of the 70's to the gravity guns of today and all the new materials. My favorite uTube pastime!!!
Currently painting a ford cortina 30S as a project, your videos are very insightful and helpful .
Now that blend is simply AWESOME. I've watched your vid's for a while, and doing paint in my own garage I've made more mistakes than people sin. Learning with useful info surely helps.
Thank you! First off thanks for being a fan for a long time, and you got that right mistakes are the only way we really learn, glad to help as many people as I can
@@PaintSociety Seeing as how I am going to be retiring soon, I thought maybe a painting gig could bring in some extra green, then found out it just is not as easy as it seems.
@@anonimous2451 honestly it’s one of those gigs that you do on your own for fun because it can be very frustrating when you’re trying to learn, but also very rewarding when things go well
Funny to see such a small adjustment make such a big difference. I typically paint motorcycles so tubular frames, small panels with a lot of shapes & corners. My gun is never (or rarely) set to full fan/full fluid nor is the tip set to spray horizontally. There are many times when my fan is almost a circle in order to get into small voids. And I'm changing the fan & fluid pattern constantly while I'm painting. This is just another great video showing how dynamic you need to be when painting. Thanks Brian!!
Great info.Not a car painter. But have painted back in the day With Dupont Centari an a binks #7 gun....
I just enjoy watching your talent and you explain so well on what you are doing
Great video once again. Like the explanations of adding the mid coat to the base base then use of blend additive. Ironically just explained the use of air cap to my high school students so I will be showing them this video when we get to spot repair techniques. Generally have my friend mix my spot repair colors on his mixing bank because the two part stores in my very rural area only sell generic line paint and the match on a color like this would be a complete disaster.
Another great video brian 👏🏻 always a pleasure watching your content.
I think your channel is perfect! The of the level of consistency through the explanations. I can sit through and not have an ounce of boredom and really learn. While searching for channels to grow in the auto repair scene, Paint Society has taught me more in a single video than hundreds of channels I've searched. Paint Society also remove many fears that were holding me back and gave me understanding with so much clarity . You may not know, Paint Society, you've allowed a dormant seed to sprout. With that, Thank you Paint Society. Continue what you do best! Remember, It's just paint.
I do something similiar except after my sealer and wet bed I mix my Basecoat and top coat 2:1 to get my foundation then I blend out with my top coat. I learned that trick from Romario Chambers I dm’ed him and he told me to try it this way because I painted a Chevy Blazer and the paint code was 252F cherry bomb red and my blend areas came out blotchy from struggling trying to blend. I will definitely try the vertical adjustment for sure
I will never do this, but I enjoyed this lesson. Thanks
I love cars, i dont own a compressor but this guy makes me want to learn how to do body work
Thank you Brain!!
You help me a lot !
My name is Marco I’m from Bronx NY !
I need to told you that you are a good man and God Blessed you!!
Keep making more videos because person like me we keep watching you thanks again!!😊
Ty for watching !
Thanks for the great tips! Looks like you're going to get a little more than just 'cooler weather' than you hoped for! Keep safe dude!
I haven’t sprayed in a body shop for over 30 years .
Pearlescent paints or 3 stage were quite rare !
Sprayed my daughters Mazda cx3 outside ..
The whole side , bonnet and wing !
They was a learning curve lol !
Took the bonnet off the car and sprayed upright , it was very windy and pressure was a fraction to high ( and I had a hangover ) the bonnet ended up being patchy. …
Is what it is … not easy spraying outside , remember spraying in booth …
So much easier !
Just a tip but put some foam tape into the door edge before u put sealer, then pull it off after. Most times paint overspray wont get in as far as sealer does.
Ty great tip. This inner edge has a rubber
Ty great tip. This inner edge has a rubber
Great work.
Sometimes - Overthink it.
It's not just paint.
Haha sometimes you do!
9:25 understood that perfectly 👍🏻
Thanks for the great video’s
Turning the tip is a old school trick Laquer painting guys would do back in the covered wagon days when spotting in little areas in tricky places on a car or truck
Great job and thanks Brian! I'm spraying an RSX this exact color right now! Can't wait to see how your RSX comes out 😀
An excellent tutorial Brian. Thanks so much!
Hey Brian. I saw in the intro your shirt was soaked. Nice cool 100 degree evening in Florida?😂. Hope you and family are safe after Helene. The vehicle came out amazing. Looks stunning in the sun.
That was the second shirt by 10am lol. It was 98 in the booth when I started painting. Helene gave us a day off from school and some downed branches. It was a nice little break for us. Thanks for the comment Jim !
Amazing talent!
greetings from The Netherlands
Excellent job Brain…
Thank you kindly
Thanks for making this video that I was asking how to blend tri-coat red Bryan. Looking to see some day for Tesla PPMR red 😊
I discovered the "outside in" blend method years ago and it works great for me!
It works!
Always a great watch learn something new everytime 👌
Glad you like them!
I want to say thank you for all your videos, they helped me so much painted my 1st, a Jag MDZ color (Silver Metallic) and looks great cuz of you and Rex at ColorVision Spfld, MO!
That is awesome!
Learned something new. Came out great. Thanks
Thank you!!
Cool instruction. Thanks for posting.
really liking the 'pyramid' from-base-up blending approach 👌 might try it soon
Also, no feelings hurt 😁
Haha ty!!
Nice job buddy…Well done.😊
Great videos. A little request would be some info, maybe in one of the corners on actual time (so we could see the intervals), temperature, humidity, Etc.
Yes this is a great idea, I will add for next
@@PaintSociety And tip size and pressure...
Phenomenal job Brian! Nice one.. 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it!
AMAZING JOB!!
Thanks ❤❤❤
Very nice work!
Awesome advice! Thank you 🙏
Wow great job
Awesome info. Thanks for sharing brother!! Good stuff. Awesome skills…
Thanks for watching!
Would u say the dv1 is the best gun for base coat and what set up would u recommend
After a new gun been using the 3m one for base and primer
I use iawata series 2 for clear which is quality
Thanks
I finish with my blends using the top of the fan. There is less overspray. That red car I would of kept the cap turned up and down for a better blend. On a blend panel that has curves like blending into a fender or quarter.
I paint in a circular motion using the top of the fan for my final blend coats.
I too will thin my final coats to reduce the harsh edge and finish with a drop coat blend to get the metallics on silver ,light golds and light blues.
Using the top of the fan to cut the overspray down gets me the seamless blends that I look for.
The last 3 young painters that I have shown this technique to have improved there blending finishes to undetectable on most of their jobs. Surprised more painters haven't picked up on this. Started my career in 1971 and now just help the young bucks( been sick 3 times from the paint game).
Wow! Been in the game a while! My honor to have you watch my videos! Great tips. Will try this
@PaintSociety I started doing this 1985 because I didn't like how dark my golds were coming out. Typical
blends show good color and motility control until you see a dark vertical band with a darker blend with motiling.
By arching your gun in a circular motion
you eliminate any rainbow and motility in the blend.
Of course color must not be too red or green or gold and not too dark( with the correct size metallic even if you have to change that a little). I was able to blend the hoods only using the first 6-9 inches of the hood on silvers, golds, pearl whites and have them undetectable from any angle. Play around with it. The pattern doesn't have to be a circle as long as you use the top of the fan.
With this technique I have been able to blend in as little as 4 inches blending the first couple of coats and sand with 1,000 or 1,200 wet or dry. Then thin the paint for the final blend keeping any color off the edge of the tape line. I think you will be very happy with the results. I telltale young bucks to plan out your primer areas( keeping them small as possible) and where you can hide the blend areas in the the curved panels as well as where you might get a run or sag. So you know where to back off a bit.
P.s Have you rried System 51 polish for your cut and buffs. Does not break down and gray out your clear coat blacks. It can be hand rubbed with no hazing or swirls. Use a micro finish cloth wet and rung out. Water base so even if bakes in the cracks for a day in the hot sun. It will pressure wash right out without staining the paint.You can find it online. Watch the instruction video.
Helped my buddy get his Sema car ready in 2007 using this product. He told me they never would have finished in time without it. Does not stain moldings or rubbers. Well, past my bedtime for these old bones.😉
@PaintSociety p.s keep your gun square to the panel on the blends and not fan it out. People tell me I shoot like a robot. That's what it takes to duplicate those factory robots
Your a legend 💯
Thx for the Vid Brian, just picked up a DFT
Enjoy it
Thanks for sharing
Good work
❤ boom what job that is 👍👍👌
You born to do this
I enjoy it most of the time!
I’m 19 F and I just painting my first fender last weeek , so much to learn but ur so helpful!
Rock on!
I like this technique 👍
It helps. Anything to help with this color 😂
@@PaintSociety yup it’s always a tuff one. 😁
Very similar approach to some industry training I had when Pearls first began to appear on new cars around 1990.
Can you imagine! 90s when the pearls started rolling😀😀
@@PaintSociety I was in New Zealand at the time working on rich men's cars.. so using mostly Glasurit products. We had educators from Europe come over and show us the how to with three layer Pearls... and we got to beat up the panels before repairing and refinishing. That was fun. We were the first to import HVLP gravity feed guns in various sizes for different layers, and when I returned to Australia 4 years later no one had heard of HVLP guns other than the old pressure vessel type.
@@oldieman730 good info! Wow. Seems like you been around paint for a while !
@@PaintSociety Last century hahaha. Retired now. I like what you're doing on this channel, it must help a lot of up and coming painters.
Thats the aim! I really hope it is! Ty😀😀
good job
I sprayed a bicycle with metalic blue with added mica elpoxy pigment it took about 8 coats and if you look close you can still see mottling i guess epoxy pigment aint ment to be added to spray paint i was putting about 1/2 teaspoon to oz
great tip wonderful i do enjoy the whole process from prep to finish
Ty for watching
I noticed that you taped up your spray cup to eliminate any chance for material to leak out or create any drips when you were doing the Clear Coat.
No, I tape it up because old paint starts to flake off the cup from previous paint jobs
I bought primer with hardener... it is suposed to be a surfacer primer. But it seams to be to thick for my setup. it comes out to patchy and i have to move close to get it somewhat nice and wet. Today im going to corect it with sand paper and reaply. But this time im going to reduce it acetone.. about 10 percent. Ho smart or.. not smart is it to use pure acetone?
By the way this is my first paintjob ever. I was so scared to do it. Bu had plenty of material and a fender i can mes around. At the end of the work i thoutgh to myself.. dont worry.. its just paint :D Thank u for what u are doing here!
Try and use 1.8 fluid tip. You dont want to thin out the primer
Brian, wanted to ask you a technical question. I have almost finished my 1st attempt at painting an entire car. I painted my 69 Camaro black which I knew would stretch my ability. My question is around orange peal in my clear coat. My tech sheet for my paint says PSI should be between 25 and 40. Being one never willing to give up I solved my orange peal by spraying 4 coats of clear and cutting/buffing to a nice finish. You always seem to spray clear at a much lower PSI than 25. I haven't tried going lower (yet). My biggest concern is the cost of clear is HIGH, and the time it takes to make the job look good is a problem. I'm using the Astro Eurohe103 for clear. Any recommendations you could provide would be much appreciated.
But lowering PSI around 23-26, you will have more fluid going on the panel instead of air drying up that fluid in the form of overspray before it hits the panel. Slow down the passes and lower the psi a little and watch what the clear is doing. 😀
Geniune question. This is the first time I saw your sprayed base coat looked blochy/patchy right before clear. Like the sprayed area looked different than original paint. I thought it should always look super smooth like satin. I deal with same problem on various colors especially black. Is that a normal thing? Clear covers it up? Because clear does not cover up silver metallic blotchyness, so why this color?
Sometimes the appearance can appear patchy due to the different sheen levels that it actually is drying, but once a clearcoat hits it, it clears it up
What clear cout you recommend for the garage? 20°C
Fc710
What was the clear liquid(in the squirt bottle) that you added after adding thinner to your blend coat?
Extra slow reducer
Awesome video Brian!
Glad you think so!
So you use blending agent as a wet bed, right?
Not really
Using it to smooth the finish
Can you do a video where you paint a car using some paint from the waste barrel to tint some base and spray sumn with it for a jungle juice paintjob. I just think that would be hilarious to see.
Nice tips!
Waiting on the resto series !
Brian or anyone viewing this: if you have a traditional gun washer, start putting your pps cups in there. Yeah they come out a little spotty but it keeps that loose junk off of there.
Great idea!
Are you using a clear base after applying the sealer?
Thats the blending additive. Did you see that part? Its the shot right after the sealer 😀
@@PaintSociety I just wasn’t sure what it was. I am actually going to paint the bumper on my truck to repair some scratches and know I need to blend it. First time trying this so it should be interesting.
@@johnsabia3793 you can scuff the sealer after it dies if its rough 😀😀
That motivational intro 😂
Do u have any videos about beginner compresors? I bought myself silent non oil compresor about 13 gal. It gets realy hot and produces alot of water in my filters. Although i have lvlp the preshure drops slowly after like 1.5 mins of use. But suply preshure is much higher than my 20-30psi... so im clules why it starts to drop. :(
I dont but get yourself the largest compressor you can run off 120v, usually 30 gallons will do for small DIY projects
Reverse blending is the stuff on these tri coat reds
My paint gun here now mate, next I'll going for on this ford ka, I'll drop you a link 👍
It 22.50pm in UK 👍
Nice!
As a sole trading bodyshop I would quite happily pass on a car that came in with this repair and colour ,I’ve painted it once and that was enough for me it’s not worth the hassle and there’s plenty other repairs to fill the gap
Exactly. As a painter I feel like some jobs I just need to pass on.
What if when you apply the clear coat you see some contour mapping ? Would it be a redo ?
Maybe it can be buffed later on
@@PaintSociety 🤞I’m waiting until Monday to buff it and find out ty for your advice and expertise I learn so much every video
@@mushiriderchannel9087 try 2000 grit and buff
I would like you to paint the hood and the roof of my 2014 Red Honda Civic Si
What is this transparent basis that you applied over the Conza Fund?
Blending additive
What psi u clear at with the series 2 iwata
26psi
How do you fight clear coat blushing?
keep it warm and or add slow solvents...
Beautiful result my friend ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Drink some pedía lite to hydrate or at least some Jupiña 😂
You seen jupina on my channel before. Keep watching. Youll see it again!
Florida.OMG
I would’ve played it safe and did the whole side especially since the fender and 1/4 are so small.
I was spraying sherwin 7000 🤮 and had to watch waterborne UA-camrs to save my job. They called it reverse blending. 👍
Reverse blending on these jobs really helps out
Does sikkens have a waterbase system
They have autowave. Never used it. Theres a chance we might see spies water in the future
@@PaintSocietyyou will love the Spies! I spray Standox water which is the same as Spies. It will be so much faster than your Sickens. However I have to say the new 100 line from BASF looks really good as well.
@@JR-ho5qm i feel like we can get some smoother n cleaner jobs with water. I seen kandy man do it with ppg. His work comes out smooth. No buffing
@PaintSociety kandy man has switched over to glasurit water but I'm sure you know that
@@nickmadding5013 yea. Waiting for him to invite me to shop and make me pizza. Maybe he will read this
Why the tape over clear coat gun?
So I had no flaking, peeling clear or paint into the paint
@@PaintSociety around the pain't cup on the gun?
Mann how you holding up on in Florida after the storm
East coast was just some wind, prayers for the west coat and up north
I'm getting famous for my horrible paint jobs. Cause when they see beautiful work like yours, they still ask, "Who did this gorgeous paint job?". But when people see my work, they immediately know who did it! With my paint jobs, I schedule an appraisal date, a primer date, and a paint date. Then when my customer sees the job, they schedule a court date.
Hahaha great laugh ty
@@PaintSociety I love your videos, even though I can't remotely consider myself a painter. I like to lighten things up and hopefully give some people a little laughter in the process. Thanks for all the great videos!
@@torydz Good laugh- thanks.
do this on white haha
💪😎🎸 KILLA 🎸👻
😀😀
Been out of the booth for years, remember my first intro to a 3 stage paint (Acura NSX early 90s).. challenging to say the least!!!
Oh yes. Those tri coats will make you think twice about your job hahha
that colour like mazda 46v code, this colour is very hard to spray ,I made a mistake once and sprayed too much and the color turned darker，and most of the time it’s hard to get the color right if you don’t spray it with other parts.
Yes that can happen too quick. You gotta start over when it happens
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Thank you!
Family is gone and back at it again?
Finally got time to edit this previously recorded one
Why are you using blender and letting it flash. Literally no point in having it on the panel if it's dry and can cause problems.
$90 wow😢
But if you consider the ease of use compared to having to spray etch or epoxy over a much bigger area stripped to metal, it makes more sense
Algorithm
Back to using a real Devilbiss I see rather than that chinese copy shit. I really like Devilbiss DV1-B. Especially for metallics and pearls. IMO the Dv1's and the ANI 200 Skull Edition that comes with 3 different air caps are about the best guns out there. I have been putting a lot of time in with the ANI lately. Not crazy about the skulls on the body and would sooner it be all black but the performance is good enough for me to deal with the cosmetics. Digital guage on it works awsome too
I only use the DV1. The knock off video was for folks unable to spend the $700
@@PaintSocietyfor a budget gun I feel Porphis made in Taiwan is about the best budget guns out there. I have a couple and suprised in how well they work for the price and they are Sata type clones for the most part as far as the body but with features that are different. Taiwan is a little better than china made stuff. You should do a review on one, will suprise you
is that the new Iwata Supernova you cleared with? I know you like Iwata's. Does it make a lot of overspray like the original Supernova clear gun did or is it a little better now?
Please can i get your Facebook account please because am a sprayer too