Christ...finally done. Had to stop lastnight because I ran out of daylight. By far one of the more difficult things I e done to a car in recent memory, mostly because I'm now old and had 4 back surgeries....but its done thanks in huge part to this video
Happy to hear that! Very fulfilling once you're done, but god does it suck working through it sometimes lmao. I feel you on the back pains tho, going through all that VA shit rn for it 😅 very prevalent in the Sub force.
omg god tier vid... Just got my Whoosh catted DP gonna install it tonight or tomorrow morning; this great to because Ill be doing a complete LED conversion on my headlights! Many thanks! 🙏
That's awesome to hear! I'm glad it helped in more ways than one 😁. Let me know if you run into any problems during the process, and I will try to help the best I can.
@@happyhills_garage oh man, what a process! I’m currently stuck with taking the DP out from: it’s stuck where you have the DP around 6:15-6:20 of the video. It seems the lip (top) catches just the edge of the outer H.S.; so close yet so far... and I snapped the top bolt (PB blasted the rest and they came off: lesson learned lol) so I’m taking that second lol.
Just finished. Don't the job exactly how you said. Took me 6 hours lol All went well nothing broke nothing is touching the cat I had to check because I had a small amount of smoke during warm up . Do you think this was because I used a bit of copper gasket sealer on the DP to the centre section gasket ? Other than that I think it's all good.
Great to hear everything went well! As for the light smoke, it might be from the sealer but I wouldn't know for sure. I never put any on and had no smoke. Is it still doing it?
@@happyhills_garage I found the problem I had a tiny tiny gap from the flex section to the resonator delete section as I used bad clamps. Found out The original u bolt type is best. So a little bit of sealer and a u bolt clamp and job fixed 😁👍😁👍
Yup. It would not be a good idea to run it without a tune once this is installed cause the ecu will not be cool with the increased exhaust flow, the o2 readings, and turbo spooling differently.
Thanks! For the engine light, I had my tuner make it so the light wouldn't come on at all. Plus, I didn't want the extra back pressure from another cat, even a mini one.
Waiting for my catless Whoosh DP to arrive, should be here on Christmas Eve and plan on installing on Christmas. I already have a Cobb exhaust, intercooler, and an access port with a tune. I know you had mentioned a new tune would be a good idea, but with a tune already, and the defouler for the rear O2 sensor, would it still need a new tune? Probably does
In my opinion, you should get another tune after the dp is on. You can run the current tune probably, but with the higher flowing cat, your o2 sensor readings and turbo spooling will change and make the ecu wonder what's going on
@@happyhills_garage I forgot to ask you, what brand is that bottom rear engine mount? And would you suggest them? I've been looking at getting one but there's too many choices for me to decide
@@SegwayBossk The rear motor mount is a MUST HAVE on the FiST! Totally changes the dynamics and feel of the car, and is at the top of my list for first mods for sure. In the video I had a REVO RMM, but I swapped it out for a stiffer race Whoosh Motorsports version a few months back. They both provide excellent quality and handling, but the Whoosh one definitely stiffened it up a tad more. The only thing you should be aware of is that it WILL increase cabin vibrations...but racecar things, so we don't care about all that 😅.
yooo, so one important question I did not ask and I’m sure many people would want to know eventually; do you know the bolt size for the Turbo to DP? I’m almost certain it’s M-8x1.25x30; maybe the hardware whoosh sold is (going to a hardware store to get a stainless steel set everyone is out of stock until January!) I’m gonna be tapping all the threads to clean it out to lol.
Soooo I don't off the top of my head lmao. I think I have the bolts and nuts lying around somewhere, but would have to look. I think your best bet would be to take the stock bolts and nuts and take it to a hardware store so they can possibly match studs to the bolt size.
@@happyhills_garage most definitely, I’ll drop it all here for you and everyone else so if any bolts snap we all got the specs for bolt hardwares and tap size. 🤣🤙
@@happyhills_garage Lmaooo so 8 days later yes... it is m8x1.25 and I tapped and inserted threads on the hole. Used m8x1.25x30 bolts w/ nord lock washers and verified any leaks. We are tio top magu 🤙
@@indianjoe3493 haha damn! Well awesome to hear everything worked out for you in the end. Appreciate the info as well. Solid job with tapping new threads and no leaks 🤙
Realistically how long do you think it would take someone (me) whos definitely not an expect mechanic🤣 I’m contemplating if I want to do it myself or just take it to a shop
Ahaha I hope you're not assuming that I'm an expert mechanic. But, I'd say 3-4 hours, including breaks(getting mad at the car and wanting to punch things, as well as eating and drinking). Not a terribly hard project honestly, just annoying at times.
@@happyhills_garage oh okay awesome, I’ve heard from other people it takes anywhere from 6-10 hours lol, looks like I’m gonna do it myself after all lol
@@baxty8126 yeah, it will honestly vary depending on how much time you take on certain portions of it. If you follow my video, it should save you quite a bit of time though. The trickiest part for me was maneuvering it out from that gap, other than that it was fairly smooth.
Tried to do mine today was defeated by two of the three turbo bolts. Only took me about an hour to get to that point. Took me three hours of strong words and wishing I took it to a mechanic to realise this can’t be done on a driveway😂
Considering that Cobb only offers the catted version, I'd say it would be a safer bet to get a custom e-tune through someone like JST if you plan to run a catless. They have an unlimited tune package that will be great for if you are still upgrading your parts.
Technically if you already had an aftermarket dp on the car that needs replaced couldn’t you do this all from below without removing any of the top of the engine?
You can give it a shot, but regardless you are gonna need to have enough room to get the upper O2 sensor. You may be able to get it by just removing the CAI, but doesn't hurt to try.
I have kind of a dumb question, I was looking at getting the whoosh catted downpipe, do I need to get the "J" style defouler for the O2 sensor? Or do the stock ones still fit?
The high flow catalytic converter and increased size of the downpipe allow the exhaust gases to flow a lot quicker. Allowing the turbo to create boost a lot quicker and more efficiently. This helps produce better performance when tuned.
@@adamday9632 yup!! Check out my video if you want to hear the before and after difference when I put the downpipe on to my catback(the before is with the catback only): ua-cam.com/video/VsvNTqBNHHE/v-deo.html
@@happyhills_garage These downpipes are great with a tune , as the engine accelerates they allow the turbo to keep accelerating , unlike the OEM cat which diminishes turbo acceleration as engine accelerates hence a drop in power in the higher rpm's.
No. There was only one heat shield for the downpipe itself that needed to be taken off and removed. You just had to work around the heat shield wrapping bs on the undercarriage to pull the downpipe out.
Christ...finally done. Had to stop lastnight because I ran out of daylight. By far one of the more difficult things I e done to a car in recent memory, mostly because I'm now old and had 4 back surgeries....but its done thanks in huge part to this video
Happy to hear that! Very fulfilling once you're done, but god does it suck working through it sometimes lmao. I feel you on the back pains tho, going through all that VA shit rn for it 😅 very prevalent in the Sub force.
omg god tier vid... Just got my Whoosh catted DP gonna install it tonight or tomorrow morning; this great to because Ill be doing a complete LED conversion on my headlights! Many thanks! 🙏
That's awesome to hear! I'm glad it helped in more ways than one 😁. Let me know if you run into any problems during the process, and I will try to help the best I can.
@@happyhills_garage oh man, what a process! I’m currently stuck with taking the DP out from: it’s stuck where you have the DP around 6:15-6:20 of the video. It seems the lip (top) catches just the edge of the outer H.S.; so close yet so far... and I snapped the top bolt (PB blasted the rest and they came off: lesson learned lol) so I’m taking that second lol.
@@indianjoe3493 I had the exact same thing happen with the heat shield lol. I just pushed up on the heat shield and pulled the DP through.
@@indianjoe3493 Sucks to hear about the bolt...I did the stud conversion as well while I was replacing the DP. So much easier to work with.
@@happyhills_garage stud conversion? Is it the ones provided? Or you bought some? I’m thinking of buying a new set right now to lol.
Thank you so much for this.
My pleasure!
It will be great if you show the results with sound, great video!
Already have! Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/VsvNTqBNHHE/v-deo.html
Very helpful, thanks! Why did you need to remove the headlights?
Glad it helps! I removed them so I could remove the bolts for the cross beam.
I'm doing this today. It's occurring to me working on a Focus ST is SO much easier.
Not wrong at all 😅
This looks hard asf
There's not necessarily an easier way lol
Ain’t hard jus tedious
Awesome job!
Thank you!
🙌 thank you
No problem 🤙
Man you failed to mention you have to be borderline magic to get that one bolt put of the heat shield. My God lol
LMAO yeah, it was a tight space to work man 😅. Typical car engineering to not be kind to DIYers/mechanics in general
@@happyhills_garage now I'm stuck on the exhaust bolts. Totally seized on a car with only 20k miles on it, in Texas.
@@collincutler4992 damn 😢 I mean, if you don't care about the stock downpipes studs just saw them off lol
The new downpipe should come with bolts and nuts
When you mentioned to remove the top bolt from the downpipe but leave the other 2 loosened confused me a bit.. But other than that, awesome vid!
Appreciate it 👍
Holt crap dude I just realized you're a fellow Bubblehead....USS San Juan?
I was a sonar tech on Ohios...9 years and 9 deployments....
Heyyyy, my man! Yup, SSN 751. I was a Nav ET. Was in Groton for 5 whole years lmao. Wound up getting NOTU as a shore duty. What coast were you on?
Just finished. Don't the job exactly how you said. Took me 6 hours lol All went well nothing broke nothing is touching the cat I had to check because I had a small amount of smoke during warm up . Do you think this was because I used a bit of copper gasket sealer on the DP to the centre section gasket ? Other than that I think it's all good.
Great to hear everything went well! As for the light smoke, it might be from the sealer but I wouldn't know for sure. I never put any on and had no smoke. Is it still doing it?
@@happyhills_garage I found the problem I had a tiny tiny gap from the flex section to the resonator delete section as I used bad clamps. Found out The original u bolt type is best. So a little bit of sealer and a u bolt clamp and job fixed 😁👍😁👍
@@conorscobbie9230 solid! Great to hear man!
Did you have to retune after this? I’m installing mine right now!
Yup. It would not be a good idea to run it without a tune once this is installed cause the ecu will not be cool with the increased exhaust flow, the o2 readings, and turbo spooling differently.
What MM size of the O2 sensor removal tool?
God tier explanation and good angles. Only thing I need to know tho🥲
Haha appreciate the compliment! The socket was a 22mm
Howsit great job on the downpipe. Why didnt you install a mini cat in second downstream o2 to prevent the engine light from coming on?
Thanks! For the engine light, I had my tuner make it so the light wouldn't come on at all. Plus, I didn't want the extra back pressure from another cat, even a mini one.
Waiting for my catless Whoosh DP to arrive, should be here on Christmas Eve and plan on installing on Christmas. I already have a Cobb exhaust, intercooler, and an access port with a tune. I know you had mentioned a new tune would be a good idea, but with a tune already, and the defouler for the rear O2 sensor, would it still need a new tune? Probably does
In my opinion, you should get another tune after the dp is on. You can run the current tune probably, but with the higher flowing cat, your o2 sensor readings and turbo spooling will change and make the ecu wonder what's going on
@@happyhills_garage damn computers. Ok thank you
@@SegwayBossk haha anytime!
@@happyhills_garage I forgot to ask you, what brand is that bottom rear engine mount? And would you suggest them? I've been looking at getting one but there's too many choices for me to decide
@@SegwayBossk The rear motor mount is a MUST HAVE on the FiST! Totally changes the dynamics and feel of the car, and is at the top of my list for first mods for sure.
In the video I had a REVO RMM, but I swapped it out for a stiffer race Whoosh Motorsports version a few months back. They both provide excellent quality and handling, but the Whoosh one definitely stiffened it up a tad more.
The only thing you should be aware of is that it WILL increase cabin vibrations...but racecar things, so we don't care about all that 😅.
yooo, so one important question I did not ask and I’m sure many people would want to know eventually; do you know the bolt size for the Turbo to DP? I’m almost certain it’s M-8x1.25x30; maybe the hardware whoosh sold is (going to a hardware store to get a stainless steel set everyone is out of stock until January!) I’m gonna be tapping all the threads to clean it out to lol.
Soooo I don't off the top of my head lmao. I think I have the bolts and nuts lying around somewhere, but would have to look. I think your best bet would be to take the stock bolts and nuts and take it to a hardware store so they can possibly match studs to the bolt size.
@@happyhills_garage most definitely, I’ll drop it all here for you and everyone else so if any bolts snap we all got the specs for bolt hardwares and tap size. 🤣🤙
@@indianjoe3493 For sure!! That'd be great! Haha
@@happyhills_garage Lmaooo so 8 days later yes... it is m8x1.25 and I tapped and inserted threads on the hole. Used m8x1.25x30 bolts w/ nord lock washers and verified any leaks. We are tio top magu 🤙
@@indianjoe3493 haha damn! Well awesome to hear everything worked out for you in the end. Appreciate the info as well. Solid job with tapping new threads and no leaks 🤙
Realistically how long do you think it would take someone (me) whos definitely not an expect mechanic🤣 I’m contemplating if I want to do it myself or just take it to a shop
Ahaha I hope you're not assuming that I'm an expert mechanic. But, I'd say 3-4 hours, including breaks(getting mad at the car and wanting to punch things, as well as eating and drinking). Not a terribly hard project honestly, just annoying at times.
@@happyhills_garage oh okay awesome, I’ve heard from other people it takes anywhere from 6-10 hours lol, looks like I’m gonna do it myself after all lol
@@baxty8126 yeah, it will honestly vary depending on how much time you take on certain portions of it. If you follow my video, it should save you quite a bit of time though. The trickiest part for me was maneuvering it out from that gap, other than that it was fairly smooth.
Tried to do mine today was defeated by two of the three turbo bolts. Only took me about an hour to get to that point. Took me three hours of strong words and wishing I took it to a mechanic to realise this can’t be done on a driveway😂
@@joshheap9465 a garage helps, but yeah cursing is inevitable with the annoyance of this one lol. 😅
Why didn’t you use a new gasket ?
There wasn't a need to replace it tbh. Never failed on me after this either. Doesn't hurt to put a new one in, but isn't absolutely necessary.
would the catless dp run good with cobb ots stage 2 tune? or would it need to be professionally tuned
Considering that Cobb only offers the catted version, I'd say it would be a safer bet to get a custom e-tune through someone like JST if you plan to run a catless. They have an unlimited tune package that will be great for if you are still upgrading your parts.
Technically if you already had an aftermarket dp on the car that needs replaced couldn’t you do this all from below without removing any of the top of the engine?
You can give it a shot, but regardless you are gonna need to have enough room to get the upper O2 sensor. You may be able to get it by just removing the CAI, but doesn't hurt to try.
I have kind of a dumb question, I was looking at getting the whoosh catted downpipe, do I need to get the "J" style defouler for the O2 sensor? Or do the stock ones still fit?
It's been a few years now, but if I remember correctly, I used the stock ones with no problem!
With such a small turbo the OEM cat is adequate , aftermarket downpipe is really a waste of money.
Solid opinion, however, my tunes were able to push a little more boost out with the downpipe swap. And it sounds awesome at that
@@happyhills_garage With a tune it's worth it 👌 .
Check engine light?
I get a code on bank 1 every now and then lol.
Had you already removed the lower Cat? FiST has 2. i only see one
There is only one catalytic converter in the downpipe. I think the other one you're thinking of is the resonator on the stock cat back.
What does the Downpipe actually do?
The high flow catalytic converter and increased size of the downpipe allow the exhaust gases to flow a lot quicker. Allowing the turbo to create boost a lot quicker and more efficiently. This helps produce better performance when tuned.
@@happyhills_garage Alright nice. Does it affect the sound at all when paired with a cat back system?
@@adamday9632 yup!! Check out my video if you want to hear the before and after difference when I put the downpipe on to my catback(the before is with the catback only): ua-cam.com/video/VsvNTqBNHHE/v-deo.html
@@happyhills_garage nice one mate👍🏻
@@happyhills_garage These downpipes are great with a tune , as the engine accelerates they allow the turbo to keep accelerating , unlike the OEM cat which diminishes turbo acceleration as engine accelerates hence a drop in power in the higher rpm's.
So you removed both heat shields?
No. There was only one heat shield for the downpipe itself that needed to be taken off and removed. You just had to work around the heat shield wrapping bs on the undercarriage to pull the downpipe out.
HappyHill's Cars & Stuff so the headers heat shield goes back on and the downpipe one gets removed ?
@@Sagesiix yeah, I don't think I did anything with the header heat shielding.