Wow, that was awesome! I love how you just did the basics and left it in its original state. I never thought that thing would run again after having all that water contamination inside, just goes to show you how durable and great those old flat-heads were. Things don’t need to be right on spec, as long as they’re close it’ll run just fine. We used to rebuild these in power mechanics class back in high school, now they don’t offer shop classes anymore. A lot of mechanically clueless people out there anymore!
Thanks! You might be the only person who's commented that you like the exterior in it's original state. I like the patina finish, too. But everyone else is saying to paint it. To the point that I am considering painting it in a future video... We'll see.
I rebuilt a Tecumseh 3HP horizonal shaft engine that pretty much looked like that B&S 2HP. Nice to hear them fire up after you take the time to fix whatever was wrong with them. Thumbs Up!
Thank you for posting this! I’m rebuilding a ‘67 right now and didn’t know how to get the valve springs back in without buying the $35 tool. Great trick with the wrench!
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets it's quite easy, I compress the springs fully, put them in, then take snips and cut them. After that y< take needle nose pliers and lightly pull the zip ties out.
That's a good point. Part of the reason I took the whole thing back off was to inspect the ID of the starter clutch and the crankshaft surface. After that squealing I wasn't sure if there was any galling or damage. I was not aware of there being felt in there, however. That's interesting. I'll take a look next time. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks a lot for uploading this content. I bought a clapped out garden tiller from the 60's for ten dollars hoping that at least the gearbox worked. Now I think I may be able to get the engine running, too.
Great job! I've finished one week ago to rebuild one from "97...I believe is quantum 50 from Briggs and Stratton...for a lawnmower...it was negligent for the last 10-15 years...and installed on a 2012 Husqvarna LC 48 EV....the 675 series from 2012 it was damaged (and to expensive to rebuild).... It's running perfectly, and I only clean it and replace al the gaskets....( And the flywheel from 675 because I've wanted to start it with the starter)
First lawnmower I built from a box of parts had the horizontal version circa 1960. Rebuilt the motor when I was about 8-9 with my dad but did lap the valves too. Didn't see you do that. Liked that you left some of the patina but would have cleaned up the carb rods and springs. OA pretty good rebuild of rugged old beast and parts still available.
I did not lap the valves on this. I probably should have but didn't want to wait for the spinny tool and lapping compound to get here. I got impatient. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video, greatly helps. I have a similar engine that I am trying to rebuild that's off a 1967 Tiller. Both intake and exhaust valves are seized up so I was taking the crankcase cover off to fully remove everything, clean things up and rebuild, replacing whatever needs replacing. The only difference I see with my build vs what you are showing. At your 6:07 minute mark, once I pulled the cover I have a bearing flush with the crankcase gear/timing. Any idea how to pull that bearing off?
The easiest way to pull those is with a bearing separator/ puller. There are other ways that are sure to trash the bearing, like clamping it in a vise and tapping out the crankshaft, prying, or cutting through the races with a Dremel. If you don't intend to replace them, I'd probably suggest you just leave the crank bearings on the crankshaft.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets Thanks, I do have a pulley puller that may work. Otherwise I'll look for the bearing separator as I do need to get it removed as it's currently flush with the gear so when I put this back together I won't be able to see to accurately place the cam back so the timing is right. And all parts could use a good cleaning. Most looks clean but so much oil has turned into this thick sludge. Figured while I have it opened up and fixing the valves I'll give it a good cleaning. Thanks for the tip.
Just saw your video...Few pointers if you don't mind... Missing a ball inside the pull cord hub assembly, and always put a bit of lube (lithium grease) in the crankshaft end before installing the hub assembly, should have checked the ring gaps before assembly, may require .005 oversize rings (chrome) if the cylinder is worn out, especially this is a used engine plus you honed the cylinder, might be a good idea to torque the con-rod to factory specs, how a bout hand lapping the valves before assembly, recoil assembly spring has a large "S" bend in it, doesn't seem normal, when I saw you put a new pull cord and just tie a knot, I knew that at one point it would undo itself because that happened to me before (tie your knot and use a pair 2 pair of pliers and pull the knot from the top and hold the bottom)
You did a very good job I'd have to say you have more balls than I do but for future reference...heat whatever metal is surrounding whatever you're trying to get out like a bowl or whatever expand that metal not what you're trying to get out make the muffler pipe & so on It works for me
Thanks! I did spend some time heating the block, it just didn't make the cut in the video. In the case of the muffler on this thing, its steel in aluminum so I think the aluminum is going to dissipate a lot of the heat. I was just hoping the heating and cooling cycles with the dissimilar metals would eventually break the corrosion between them. 50+ years of galvanic corrosion is tough to beat!
the hole atop the starter clutch is where oil can be dribbled down. there is a pad that holds the oil underneath the hole. use engine oil not wd40 or similar
I can’t figure out who the original equipment manufacturer was. I can read Clipper but it can’t be a Cooper Clipper because they were based out of Marshalltown Iowa and it would be orange not white. Anybody know who made the equipment this Briggs was on?
I'm not sure either. I thought maybe it could have been a Whipper Clipper edger, but then it looked like they weren't based in Florida - at least by what I could find online. Maybe someone else will know.
Need to use the box end of the wrench, also should have put oil in the pull cord starter instead of wd-40 and grease the ball bearings on the starter cord assembly.....
I understand the value of keeping it original. I have this exact engine and am in the same process of cleaning it up. But id like to modify mine with an aftermarket carburator. Do you know how id determine the size ?
While the rebuild is nice, one thing I would suggest is that instead of hammering something directly, you put a block between the hammer and the object as to avoid percussive damage.
Complimenti per il lavoro.. peccato che quella generazione di motori aveva il cilindro in alluminio consumavano tanto olio! Poi sono arrivati con il cilindro in ghisa ed è diventato duraturo
Nice post! I'm working on the same engine. Mine is a 1976. Did you notice that the valve springs are different in height? I believe the taller is the exhaust. Is that also what you saw?
Thanks. Yes, I'm finding out that you and many others would have painted it. I guess paint makes for a more visually satisfying before and after, but to me the mechanical restoration is the interesting part. Maybe I'll paint the next one.
I wondered about that for a while when I was getting parts. On various forums, I saw differing opinions (surprise!). Some said Kool-bore had to have chrome faced rings, others used cast iron rings. I saw posts that said they came with cast iron rings originally and chrome faced rings were provided as an option for rebuilding to help the rings seat in a glazed cylinder. And so on. I decided to just run these and see how it goes. Thanks for watching, and good eye.
@@JosephStalin1941 I believe I got the ones for this particular rebuild from ebay, but small engine supply websites like Jack's small engines or even Amazon might have them.
I am rebuilding one of these atm The flywheel has a woodruff key, like the one in the video. The points cover says "Caution Do not use a steel key. See Instructions" as doe the cover in the video The key that came out looks to be steel. What am I supposed to use? Is there some other kind of key than steel? Thanks to anybody who can shed some light.
I’m working on the same engine. This video is insanely helpful, thank you! Noob question: is the thread on the muffler a standard ‘righty tighty lefty loosey’ thread? I’m having the same stuck issues as you but I wanna make sure I’m not making my problem worse!
I don't know how it ended up with water in the case and no oil. The only thing I can think of is they drained the oil for some reason and then left it outside? Who knows. Your guess is as good as mine.
That kink in the recoil starter spring should most definitely have been straightened (not at all hard to do) and may cause easily avoided problems in the future.
It's interesting you were able to find the parts, I had a hard time finding the parts for a 12.5 horsepower B&S. When I had a shop find the parts, it was cheaper to buy a new engine than the replacement parts. That is an excellent job Sir. Did you replace the piston with a standard size, or over size? With mine the cylinder was worn so bad, it would need a .020 over. Very expensive.
I actually found the piston on ebay for a reasonable price. Someone had it for sale as new old stock. And I used a standard piston in this one. It's a shame that it sometimes costs more to repair than replace. Seems like that's how it goes for more and more stuff today.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets Yes sir, I found a few items on e bay, the problem is, they wouldn't garrentee what I bought would be what I needed. I know it sounds crazy, I bought a 25 horsepower Briggs and stratton, on line for $70. They said ANY order over $50 had free shipping. The problem is, it's coming from China and can take up to 30 days. For that price for a NEW engine with double the horsepower is worth it. Again, an excellent video sir
Mod N weren't they when they had the float carb. We used to hotrod them where were 12 years old and put them on go carts we made with 2x4s, an old reel type mower (Even old in 1958 ) and race them. Real trick with the rope steering and no brakes, but we learned enough to end up in 600 HP A/P Corvettes 10 years later. Too bad there are no more engines like that for kids to abandon their smart phones for today. You can learn a lot more from an old Clinton Motor then you ever learn from playing Pac Man. And Hey, all that work and no paint. Krylon works wounders,,,,,,if you don't go for Chevy orange.
Your mom is gonna spank you good for using the kitchen sink to clean parts. I used my mom's 12-quart stock pot to boil the block & other aluminum parts clean.
I wouldn't pour used oil or antifreeze down the drain, that all goes to a recycling center. But I think occasionally getting the grime off some parts is fine, at least where I am. I wash the oil and grease off my hands all the time.
![1974 Briggs & Stratton 3HP Motor Restoration [Part 1 of 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L6L-XYpRmqM/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, that was awesome! I love how you just did the basics and left it in its original state. I never thought that thing would run again after having all that water contamination inside, just goes to show you how durable and great those old flat-heads were. Things don’t need to be right on spec, as long as they’re close it’ll run just fine. We used to rebuild these in power mechanics class back in high school, now they don’t offer shop classes anymore. A lot of mechanically clueless people out there anymore!
Thanks! You might be the only person who's commented that you like the exterior in it's original state. I like the patina finish, too. But everyone else is saying to paint it. To the point that I am considering painting it in a future video... We'll see.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets ❤
I enjoyed seeing a no-frills rebuild, using the tools, methods, and materials at hand. Nice job.
Thank you!
Extremely helpful . Great editing . Straight and to the point. Only wish the job could actually be done in under 30 minutes. Thanks for sharing
Your Mom had to love you washing parts in her sink... I really like your dish washing gloves... Cool old engine..
Thanks for watching. It is a cool engine. However, it's my sink in my house. And since you like them, those are pvc coated chemical resistant gloves.
Thank You for this no nonse approach to a complete rebuild and repair of this little workhorse.
Fantastic video !!!
My son in law gave me a project a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower to overhaul
Your video will be a grate help
Thanks! Glad it's helpful.
I rebuilt a Tecumseh 3HP horizonal shaft engine that pretty much looked like that B&S 2HP. Nice to hear them fire up after you take the time to fix whatever was wrong with them. Thumbs Up!
Agreed! Thanks for watching
Thank you for posting this! I’m rebuilding a ‘67 right now and didn’t know how to get the valve springs back in without buying the $35 tool. Great trick with the wrench!
Glad that trick was helpful, thanks for watching!
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets When I put my valves back in I use mini zip ties to compress the valves then cut the zip ties out when I'm done.
@@Aidenmarin03 That seems like it would work too. But is it potentially harsh when you cut the zip tie? Unless you compress it just the right amount.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets it's quite easy, I compress the springs fully, put them in, then take snips and cut them. After that y< take needle nose pliers and lightly pull the zip ties out.
@@Aidenmarin03 and The Zip ties Were JAMMED ! UP ! TIGHT !!
Thanks. I needed that. I'm almost done with the removal. Need to order parts, and rebuild.
I love seeing these flathead engines getting heavily modified
Video was so good ive watched it 3 times . Good job ! Thank you . Maybe because I have the same engine made in 1987 .
Thank you!
That little hole in the top of the starter clutch is an oil hole. It should have a little piece of felt in it to soak up oil. You should oil it there.
That's a good point. Part of the reason I took the whole thing back off was to inspect the ID of the starter clutch and the crankshaft surface. After that squealing I wasn't sure if there was any galling or damage.
I was not aware of there being felt in there, however. That's interesting. I'll take a look next time. Thanks for the feedback.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets yeap a drop or 2 synthetic is what they say.
The torque wrench "click" sound when tightening the bigend bolts was a nice touch. 😂
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. However, there's no way I would have gone through all that trouble without painting it.
Exactly what I was thinking. Wasted opportunity while it's fully stripped down
Thanks a lot for uploading this content. I bought a clapped out garden tiller from the 60's for ten dollars hoping that at least the gearbox worked. Now I think I may be able to get the engine running, too.
That sounds like a good project. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Same here. Got an Ariens tiller with an early 60's Tecumseh H22 motor. Thankfully it's in much better shape than this one... whew.
Great job!
I've finished one week ago to rebuild one from "97...I believe is quantum 50 from Briggs and Stratton...for a lawnmower...it was negligent for the last 10-15 years...and installed on a 2012 Husqvarna LC 48 EV....the 675 series from 2012 it was damaged (and to expensive to rebuild)....
It's running perfectly, and I only clean it and replace al the gaskets....( And the flywheel from 675 because I've wanted to start it with the starter)
First lawnmower I built from a box of parts had the horizontal version circa 1960. Rebuilt the motor when I was about 8-9 with my dad but did lap the valves too. Didn't see you do that. Liked that you left some of the patina but would have cleaned up the carb rods and springs. OA pretty good rebuild of rugged old beast and parts still available.
I did not lap the valves on this. I probably should have but didn't want to wait for the spinny tool and lapping compound to get here. I got impatient. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video, greatly helps. I have a similar engine that I am trying to rebuild that's off a 1967 Tiller. Both intake and exhaust valves are seized up so I was taking the crankcase cover off to fully remove everything, clean things up and rebuild, replacing whatever needs replacing. The only difference I see with my build vs what you are showing. At your 6:07 minute mark, once I pulled the cover I have a bearing flush with the crankcase gear/timing. Any idea how to pull that bearing off?
The easiest way to pull those is with a bearing separator/ puller. There are other ways that are sure to trash the bearing, like clamping it in a vise and tapping out the crankshaft, prying, or cutting through the races with a Dremel. If you don't intend to replace them, I'd probably suggest you just leave the crank bearings on the crankshaft.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets Thanks, I do have a pulley puller that may work. Otherwise I'll look for the bearing separator as I do need to get it removed as it's currently flush with the gear so when I put this back together I won't be able to see to accurately place the cam back so the timing is right. And all parts could use a good cleaning. Most looks clean but so much oil has turned into this thick sludge. Figured while I have it opened up and fixing the valves I'll give it a good cleaning. Thanks for the tip.
That’s a great video. I’m about to start rebuilding one myself
Thanks! Enjoy your rebuild.
I love to restore old engines !
Hey , I'm Chris and next you want to break a bolt free next if you have it try PB Blaster for a little more help.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Some people will never understand the feelings of something starting again
Just saw your video...Few pointers if you don't mind... Missing a ball inside the pull cord hub assembly, and always put a bit of lube (lithium grease) in the crankshaft end before installing the hub assembly, should have checked the ring gaps before assembly, may require .005 oversize rings (chrome) if the cylinder is worn out, especially this is a used engine plus you honed the cylinder, might be a good idea to torque the con-rod to factory specs, how a bout hand lapping the valves before assembly, recoil assembly spring has a large "S" bend in it, doesn't seem normal, when I saw you put a new pull cord and just tie a knot, I knew that at one point it would undo itself because that happened to me before (tie your knot and use a pair 2 pair of pliers and pull the knot from the top and hold the bottom)
Pointers are always welcome. Thanks for watching.
Love it man!! Good stuff!!
Thanks!
awesome job. i got a 5hp im going to buy soon and this is the motivation that i needed.
Thank you
Nice. Watch and learn. What was the cleaner? Simply Green ?
Thanks. Yea in the spray bottle that was concentrated Simple Green
You did a very good job I'd have to say you have more balls than I do but for future reference...heat whatever metal is surrounding whatever you're trying to get out like a bowl or whatever expand that metal not what you're trying to get out make the muffler pipe & so on
It works for me
Thanks! I did spend some time heating the block, it just didn't make the cut in the video. In the case of the muffler on this thing, its steel in aluminum so I think the aluminum is going to dissipate a lot of the heat. I was just hoping the heating and cooling cycles with the dissimilar metals would eventually break the corrosion between them. 50+ years of galvanic corrosion is tough to beat!
You are a magician. Awesome work on that restoration. God{Bible] Bless.
Thanks!
Hola haces un trabajo d relojeros, con materiales d desecho, 🙂 bravo x ti,,
the hole atop the starter clutch is where oil can be dribbled down. there is a pad that holds the oil underneath the hole. use engine oil not wd40 or similar
This was really fascinating to watch. You earned yourself a new subscriber
Awesome, thanks!
Good content. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Will this motor work for a mini bike
I can’t figure out who the original equipment manufacturer was. I can read Clipper but it can’t be a Cooper Clipper because they were based out of Marshalltown Iowa and it would be orange not white. Anybody know who made the equipment this Briggs was on?
I'm not sure either. I thought maybe it could have been a Whipper Clipper edger, but then it looked like they weren't based in Florida - at least by what I could find online. Maybe someone else will know.
Need to use the box end of the wrench, also should have put oil in the pull cord starter instead of wd-40 and grease the ball bearings on the starter cord assembly.....
I understand the value of keeping it original. I have this exact engine and am in the same process of cleaning it up. But id like to modify mine with an aftermarket carburator. Do you know how id determine the size ?
While the rebuild is nice, one thing I would suggest is that instead of hammering something directly, you put a block between the hammer and the object as to avoid percussive damage.
I have that exact same POS Chinese ultrasonic cleaner! Works great for pistol cleaning!
Yea it seems to do a pretty good job. Starting with a warm solution helps.
Where did you buy all those gaskets and other parts like the muffler buddy
Why didn't you show us how you recut the valve seats? Or did you blow that step off?
On this one I did not recut the seats or lap the valves.
Complimenti per il lavoro.. peccato che quella generazione di motori aveva il cilindro in alluminio consumavano tanto olio! Poi sono arrivati con il cilindro in ghisa ed è diventato duraturo
What was the cost on the rebuild? By the way great video thank you for showing the process 👍
Mam taki sam silnik tylko 3.5 km do pompy wodnej
Why did you not lap the valves
Bro made a homemade ring composer good vid
So, what did you put it on?
Nice post! I'm working on the same engine. Mine is a 1976. Did you notice that the valve springs are different in height? I believe the taller is the exhaust. Is that also what you saw?
I know you said you liked how it was but I would have repainted it not really a restore but still a great video
Thanks. Yes, I'm finding out that you and many others would have painted it. I guess paint makes for a more visually satisfying before and after, but to me the mechanical restoration is the interesting part. Maybe I'll paint the next one.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets there is nothing wrong with that you did a great job on that rebuild
You may use the classic word "PERKELE"? Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk in Finland.
The rings that went in are for a Iron bore engine. You need chrome faced rings for the aluminum bore. The bore is going to wear out fast.
I wondered about that for a while when I was getting parts. On various forums, I saw differing opinions (surprise!). Some said Kool-bore had to have chrome faced rings, others used cast iron rings. I saw posts that said they came with cast iron rings originally and chrome faced rings were provided as an option for rebuilding to help the rings seat in a glazed cylinder. And so on. I decided to just run these and see how it goes. Thanks for watching, and good eye.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets I'm rebuilding a 1976 right now and I just snapped the oil ring, where did you get your rings from?
@@JosephStalin1941 I believe I got the ones for this particular rebuild from ebay, but small engine supply websites like Jack's small engines or even Amazon might have them.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets thank you very much, and standard rings for the 60100 series should work right
Back at a time when camshafts weren’t mostly plastic 👍
Gostei da recuperação do motor, mas poderia ter feito o embelezamento do exterior com uma nova pintura. 👍🏻
I liked the patina on this engine and decided to keep it instead of painting. Thanks for watching!
I am rebuilding one of these atm The flywheel has a woodruff key, like the one in the video. The points cover says "Caution Do not use a steel key. See Instructions" as doe the cover in the video The key that came out looks to be steel. What am I supposed to use? Is there some other kind of key than steel? Thanks to anybody who can shed some light.
I’m working on the same engine. This video is insanely helpful, thank you!
Noob question: is the thread on the muffler a standard ‘righty tighty lefty loosey’ thread? I’m having the same stuck issues as you but I wanna make sure I’m not making my problem worse!
Glad the video is helpful. Yes, the muffler is right hand threaded, so "righty tighty lefty loosey" is correct.
thank you
Can you please help me out with a model number on this??
The Previous owner ! Just RAN ! THIS ! ON ! WATER !! VAPOUR !!
I don't know how it ended up with water in the case and no oil. The only thing I can think of is they drained the oil for some reason and then left it outside? Who knows. Your guess is as good as mine.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets So why didn't you put this in the Metal Shreadder ! Then !??
please get yourself a torque wrench. other than that. excellent video :-) is this a 60102 2hp engine ? if so i have the same 🙂
I have a torque wrench. Maybe I'll use it next time. It is a 60100 series engine. Thanks for watching!
That kink in the recoil starter spring should most definitely have been straightened (not at all hard to do) and may cause easily avoided problems in the future.
Should have put a smidge of grease for the slider on the pull rope area
Do you mean where the rope passes through the cover? Thanks for watching.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets no sir the little socket piece with a ball bearings rod
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets where are you sprayed the WD-40
👍 Got it
Nut in pulling rope ie. Knot it's a double nut put role in to knot twin .
I had this same exact engine
Thanks. Nice .
Pretty good. He didn't have a few of the tools that he needed though.
Bravo👍👍💟👏
Thanks for watching!
No boot on that sparkplug wire is a shocking omission.
Haha! That's just how it used to be. And the stop "switch" was just a piece of metal you push over to ground out the plug. Shockingly simple.
uh you forgot to add grease to that pull starter.
It's interesting you were able to find the parts, I had a hard time finding the parts for a 12.5 horsepower B&S. When I had a shop find the parts, it was cheaper to buy a new engine than the replacement parts.
That is an excellent job Sir. Did you replace the piston with a standard size, or over size? With mine the cylinder was worn so bad, it would need a .020 over. Very expensive.
I actually found the piston on ebay for a reasonable price. Someone had it for sale as new old stock. And I used a standard piston in this one. It's a shame that it sometimes costs more to repair than replace. Seems like that's how it goes for more and more stuff today.
@@Sockets_and_Sprockets
Yes sir, I found a few items on e bay, the problem is, they wouldn't garrentee what I bought would be what I needed.
I know it sounds crazy, I bought a 25 horsepower Briggs and stratton, on line for $70. They said ANY order over $50 had free shipping. The problem is, it's coming from China and can take up to 30 days. For that price for a NEW engine with double the horsepower is worth it.
Again, an excellent video sir
We usually just replace it with electronic and don’t even fool with the points
Yea I agree. Electronic ignition is the way to go.
Ohhhh ! No wonder ! The Electronic points ! Are more ! JUNK !! Than there ! Worth !!
Mod N weren't they when they had the float carb. We used to hotrod them where were 12 years old and put them on go carts we made with 2x4s, an old reel type mower (Even old in 1958 ) and race them. Real trick with the rope steering and no brakes, but we learned enough to end up in 600 HP A/P Corvettes 10 years later. Too bad there are no more engines like that for kids to abandon their smart phones for today. You can learn a lot more from an old Clinton Motor then you ever learn from playing Pac Man.
And Hey, all that work and no paint. Krylon works wounders,,,,,,if you don't go for Chevy orange.
I’d recommend investing into a torque wrench. Cringed at the con rod and head installation.
👏👍
And the start cord come righ out and wips in face.
Tôi cũng có một máy như vậy nhưng là 5hp và tôi đã làm cho nó hoạt động tốt
Saludos
Your mom is gonna spank you good for using the kitchen sink to clean parts. I used my mom's 12-quart stock pot to boil the block & other aluminum parts clean.
Not really the best to do all the cleaning in the sink. Here they water treatment plants can track the oils and give you huge fines
I wouldn't pour used oil or antifreeze down the drain, that all goes to a recycling center. But I think occasionally getting the grime off some parts is fine, at least where I am. I wash the oil and grease off my hands all the time.
But great job
not a complete restoration unless you repaint everything
Thanks for the video you should have painted it also
I keep getting that feedback... Maybe I need to make a part 2 with paint and reproduction stickers.
Valve clearances (lash) should have been measured before installing springs in case they need adjustment (filing).
Agreed and having gone that far into it might as well have gotten some valve grinding compound and reseated the valves
I’ve seen too many faults in there you’re in too much of a hurry to get it back together again you could’ve done part two of it
THAT ENGINE IS IN BAD SHAPE..
Wd4 in the honer 😂😂 never sen that
Don't you believe in paint
Paint ! Just ! Makes an ABSOLUTE ! MESS !! OF JUNK !! ALREADY ! THERE !!
Put some wd 40 on pissnit is
No t quedo pintura para la carcasa, " lo has desmerecido "