Agree. I’ve been messing with these small engines (and bigger ones too) for 40 years and I didn’t know about the acid trick. The rope is straight out of Boy Scouts for fire starting, but I hadn’t thought of that either. 🤷♂️
In my world, this is the perfect video of this kind. It is long; detailed; unusual issues are addressed; suspense; surprises; requires unique approaches to disassembly/assembly, etc. Your controlled demeanor and no frills process makes this one of the best channels out there. Thank you for doing these for us. I recognize how much time is involved in producing one of these quality videos.
You are spot on my friend. James takes the time to make a quality video. Not only educational but extremely entertaining. I did find myself talking to my PC about not lapping the values.
If this guy is a surgeon he will be the one doing surgery to me, very careful and very steady hand. Thanks for another amazing video, awesome step by steps explanation/ instruction. Learning a lot from you thank you sir..
Not bad.. I used to rebuild old lawnmower engines as a kid of 12 -14.. (that was back in the 60's) the compression I always strived for was 105.. But I would hone and cross hatch my cylinders lap my valves, everything was mic'ed and in proper tolerances.. other wise my dad would make me do it again.. I got to do my first car engine at 16.. and to my surprise it actually ran and lasted for many many years until I sold the car... I am to old and broken these days (I did my last car restoration 2 years ago a 62 t-bird) So now I just watch others do it.. thanks for the memories brother I appreciate it.. I also wish you luck with your you tube channel... Carry on!
Thanks. Still new at the rebuilding. Did my first at 47 (this year). I think you have a few more years experience. I hate publishing rebuild videos because there are a lot of more experienced people watching. But that is how I learn. My Dad was never good with tools so had to teach myself. Thanks again.
At 24:00 those are those are not crack in the crankcase. they are heat crack in the die that casted the crankcase. I was a mold maker that made molds for zinc and aluminum die cast molds and have seen lots of those heat cracks. Those surface defects you see in the casting represent an well used die that made a lot of castings. They are nothing to worry about in the casting other than visual appearance.
Hey great video, I am a merchant Marine Chief engineer for the past 25 years working onboard ships, I just wanted to point out something I learned from an old-timer regarding torque, the reading can be off as much as 25 pound feet when stacking hands on tool the higher up on tool the higher the reading not sure if that is true on small torque settings, I bought 3 10000exl for $150.00 all run 1 had blown head gasket, blowing oil out front seal, replaced seal head gaskets lapped valves reassembled now I am getting 140psi each cylinder plan to test later today. Just wanted to say thank great video series slot of help Brian Ryder
Thanks for the tip. Definitely will have an impact on the torque, but sometimes have to do it. The Generac 10000 EXLs are very nice machines. That was a great deal.
Soap and washer and kitchen sink. I use them all the time to clean up stuff. My wife hate it but she is used to it by now. One thing I use it for is to clean up dirty sprocket cover on chainsaws. After cutting wood they are filthy. I scrape off caked up sawdust and oil and then coat them with Dawn and hit them with hot water and a scrub brush. They are immaculate when I get through. I shake off any loose water and wipe them dry with a couple of paper towels. I then put them on my workbench in the sun to dry. I do this as one of my first steps cleaning the saw, so they have time to dry. I also crank up the saw after cleaning to redcoat everything with some bar oil - don’t want metal parts rusting during non use. Have never had any problem doing this. If the sprocket cover is really dirty I may spray it with degreaser before washing. I also use the sinks sprayer to get rid of any sawdust hidden in cracks and crevices. Stihl sprocket covers are much easier to clean than Husky covers.
An old guy showed me something cool. Cut the head off a bolt so you have a stud, then cut a groove (widthwise like a flathead screw) like an inch deep or how ever wide your emery cloth is. Now you put the emery cloth in the slot and wrap it around and you can put it in a drill and have a poverty dremel.
I was supposed to remind you of something. Can't remember what it was. It drove me nuts to see you put back the old black rusty cover. 2 minutes with a paint can. It is still the best video ever.
I don’t think it’s possible to know less than I do about mechanical engineering, much to my late father's disappointment, but I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Can I also compliment you on your filming, it was excellent and we could see everything in detail.
Best episode/tutorial yet.............really useful demonstration of small engine repairs, even for some serious damage. Pro Tip - A lot of people now use a oiled wet stone to clean decks and heads, it keeps the surface true and cleans up well.
The valve hit was clear to see when you first took off the head. Because of it I would fear the valve head was bent. Reseating/grinding the valve would have proved it would still seal at a minimum cost and effort. Nice result all the same. It's easy to see the joy you get from getting them going just right. Congratulations.
hey im from canada my name is guy my phone number is 905 920 3915 i really need your help with a question about a generator please i watch you all the time but please and thank you
I've watched many rebuild vids over the years, and a few of them where the crank journals were smoothed over w/sandpaper - this is the 1st time I'd ever seen that rope/sandpaper technique.
Really enjoy the videos that you are putting together. You are a great educator. Rebuilding for the first time and you have really given me hope I succeed. Thanks.
I loved the video. You teach in a way that makes me feel like I am in a class room. I loved that you spent your time to do this video. I love to learn more each day in life. In my life time I have worked on small one cylinder up to eight cylinder Diesel engine generators. Each unit has a character of its own. Size does not always matter.
Nice work, I'm glad that engine was able to be saved, now it has a fresh rebuild and should provide many hours of service on that generator if taken care of and not run low on oil again.
James, one of my favorite head and cylinder block mating surface cleanup is sandpaper sheets on a piece of tempered glass . The Subaru guys seem to like this method as well since 2 cylinder heads are small , and the blocks are manageable when split.
I rebuilt the exact same motor, exact same damage, I was able to remove all the aluminum that was galled onto the crankshaft with sodium hydroxide. After polishing the crankshaft was still at brand new specs and you couldn't tell it seized. All it needed was head gasket, crankcase gasket and connecting rod. Engine runs perfect now
I have this exact same generator and engine. Same problem as well. Broken rod. It must be a common issue with these engines. Thanks for sharing this video. I have never built an engine before but im going to attempt it because of this step by step. Wish me luck.
Nice video! General practice dictates anytime new rings are installed, 60 degree cross hatch pattern applied to cylinder wall as it helps the rings to seat. Love the trick with the acid, amazed the crank was not harmed.
Concise well made video Good job. Only negative for me is music . Your skill and demeanor are pleasant to watch. I cant believe you worked on that engine on the floor it would kill my back. Thanks for sharing.
You do a great job with your channel and I enjoy your videos. A suggestion, if I may. I spent way too many hours working on the floor on my hands and knees and kneeling and squatting. It took it's toll on me physically and it manifested itself later in life. Please consider getting a lift table or at least move your projects onto a table and work more comfortably. It will pay big benefits when your beard turns gray. You only have one back and two knees. Thanks for what you post. Very informative.
Thanks. Already mostly gray. Trying to use the workbench more. Most of the time I am sitting on a short stool. Will get a lift table at some point. Only do this for an hour or two a day so hopefully not doing too much damage.
Thank you for saving me the time and hassle of pulling the flywheel off of mine. I guess these modern magnetos don't use points and condenser, at least not under the flywheel.
A late comment. You really need a 5 gallon bucket of Evapo-Rust. Even though one won't see much of the flywheel it surely will look better and you can toss in the crank shaft as well. The stuff works great. As always IMHO!
Always a leaning experience watching your videos, I guess that's the point isn't it. You instill confidence in all those who watch, I'm sure. I know you do me. Thanks again, James.
@@jcondon1 I like that you use torque specs, as it's a great way to not over torque a bolt. I have strong hands, and I also don't grip the handle at the very end (using a regular ratchet) but grip further up the ratchet handle sometimes to not accidently over torque too.
I am the god of the lower back - they call me common sense. You have been brought to my attention and I am here to tell you- design a cheap overhead crane (come along) and GET YOUR WORK OFF THE FLOOR". You deserve it and many blessings will follow. Do not hesitate, do not think about it. Just get your work off the floor. PS - You vids are technically perfect- great job.
That refresh on the journal was pretty cool. I had a bad head (Honda ATC) with scored cam journals and I never thought to try and clean it up. Nice work!
An alternative to spinning your valve in a drill press is to roll the shaft of the valve or a pushrod on a piece of glass. Doesn’t have to be anything special, the glass from an old picture frame will do. Glass is very flat and very unforgiving. It will expose any bend in the valve head or bow in a straight shaft. Glass is also a great tool for testing bearings.
It still gets me every time, the ware and force the rings are subject to, the oil control are so thin, now granted they're not under a great deal of tension but they are hot and moving
@@jcondon1 I have 6 kids totally understand that hobby is different then a career I own automotive shops and computer shops and I run full time mobile repair for both computers and automotive so I use it a ton might not be for you right now but it does come in handy for 100 bucks compared to a few of the exspensive 5 grand units I have that have active live bacteria in them
AweSOOOOME. Nice save and even more exciting for you now that you have a machine to put it on already too! $100 for a generator with a blown engine is crime imo. I've gotten good running generators for $100 and $150 here in north central NC! Thanks for the education and keep them coming, James! Was great to see you on Ken's live stream last week too. 👍
I have gotten some great ones too for less the $100. But normally pay more for junk up here. Every time I visit my mother-in-law in the Shallotte NC area, I always look for good deals to drive home with, never find any. Just figured people there just know how to take care of there stuff.
Love these videos! Seems like you get lots of briggs and that is what is cheap around my area too! I have 5 in my garage as we speak and you got me started.
For cleaning the crank I would have used sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner, lye, whatever you want to call it) since it completely destroys aluminum without attacking the steel. Acids will cause steel to rust and corrode while sodium hydroxide will not do anything to steel. Nice trick with the rope and sandpaper btw.
Will give that a try next time. Was worried about the steel corroding/rusting which is why I used that cut rag strip to try and keep it off everything else.
Yup, drain cleaner full strength is the ticket. Restored two cranks that way. Don't waste your time with oven cleaner - it's not strong enough. Oven cleaner does work wonders on getting the burned on oil off, though. Be advised: drain cleaner in high concentration in water creates an exothermic reaction. Don't use plastic to contain it. Ask me how I know.
@@jcondon1 I saw that after watching the whole video. I remember that detail from small engine class the the gasket thickness is part of the clearance and in some cases you can order different thickness to adjust the end play of the crank. Please keep making interesting videos. You have an audience.
Wow one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on UA-cam and I’ve researched a lot of stuff to fix stuff is very educational and methodical the way you do things amazing thank you so much for this I have a troy built that a customer gave me when I was doing their floor that they started during a hurricane but forgot to put oil on it it’s a troy built 5550 and I think just the rings caught on the cylinder wall I haven’t taken the part yet but it moves just fine nothing seems to be broken but I think after watching this video it’s worth investigating thank you so much
I really enjoy your videos. Incredibly interesting and relaxing. Thanks for the effort. Oh, remember to get that lift table so you can save those knees and your back.....
When you consider you could by a hole engine at Harbor Freight for $99 it does seem a bit much. Of course that is only a 5hp engine and a standard crank. If they sold 10 HP engines with a tapered shaft, then would have made more sense to repower with a Predator Engine.
No you are not the only one...recently , the wife failed to miss a low stump with the 21” Craftsman mower. Not only did the flywheel key shear, but the flywheel hub just disintegrated in a major way. B&S wanted just a few dollars less for a key and flywheel that the entire replacement engine sells for. Fortunately there are guys on ebay that know what they have and sell used stuff for a fair price.
you should get yourself an air impact if you have a decent compressor. they are cheap and usually stronger than electric ones. that way you can zip off flywheel bolts easily
@@jcondon1 well thats a diffent story then. From my experience an impact isn't that loud. its just the compressor. depending on how well your worshop is sound proof. might be worth looking in a big tank for reserve air. just a thought
Hey Jim, just a suggestion in place of the muriatic acid, next go round try sodium hydroxide aka lye. It will dissolve the aluminum just as quickly as the hcl, and won't attack the steel like hcl will. It's also very inexpensive if you have a local Ace hardware. Really great video though, nicely done rebuild.
I agree I have also used caustic soda to remove aluminum from a crank successfully in the past, also EM love your channel,thanks for the referral to this one.
@Shepard Titus very good keep up good work God bless you and your family and love ones and your friends and neighbors in the mighty name of Jesus Christ🙏👍🍾🍷🍷
Be extra careful when handling lye, as it will turn your skin or eyes to soap and you won't feel pain until it's too late. But yeah, I was thinking the same thing ... lye is tough on aluminum and easy on steel.
I want to say thank you for this video I learned a lot about the rocker arm assembly for the piston mine has the same exact problem now I know what to do thank you
Very nice job. I think you lapped the valves but I did not see it in the video. I usually take off the aluminum from a crank the way you did and sometimes I just polish it off with a very fine emery cloth. Great video. Thanks
Nice work. I would have put a dial indicator on the valve and measured runout while I had it in the drill press, rather than just eyeballing it. You can get one and a magnetic holder for like $15. 22:34 Still kind of worried about possible leakage from the cracks in the case. But you gave it a good two-hour test after all. I'd probably have tested the case by filling it with hot oil before ordering parts.
I agree, need to get a dial indicator. Since making this, have rebuilt a couple other Briggs engines and the newer ones all seem to have those cracks. Not great, but seems to be normal for this engine.
Seems like I pick something new up with each video of yours I watch. The sandpaper/rope trick is my: “something new I learned today“. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? This old dog still has a thing or two to learn.
@@jcondon1 Sounds like the piston hit that head fairly hard. Perhaps the damage isn't in the valve but the rocker or the head itself. Anyways, that block is in great shape for having thrown a rod. I'm used to there being freshly installed window that the conrod placed.
Rudofaux normally the do make a window in the block. Not sure what I missed, but actually swapped out all the lower and top end and still sounds like a knock.
@@jcondon1 Humm..that's quite the conundrum. I can't be pre-ignition knocking because of how small engine's ignition system works. I'm sorry for speculating. I know your know your stuff & you have the engine with you. I know you'll find the source. Love your content by the way.
Sizzling is hydrogen being released, small amount of aluminum so I wouldn't be too concerned but be careful if you ever use it on larger amounts, hydrogen mixes with oxygen and is very unstable and create explosions. But good choice using hydrochloric acid to quickly dissolve the aluminum and leave the steel maybe slightly etched, smart dude we have here!
I'm honestly blown away at how well that crank journal turned out! Truly incredible to be able to save that
Well worth watching. I learned two tricks, the acid to remove the aluminum, and how to use a rope with the sand paper.
The rope trick!!👍
No kidding! Brilliant.
Lol i was think the very same thing
Agree. I’ve been messing with these small engines (and bigger ones too) for 40 years and I didn’t know about the acid trick. The rope is straight out of Boy Scouts for fire starting, but I hadn’t thought of that either. 🤷♂️
In my world, this is the perfect video of this kind. It is long; detailed; unusual issues are addressed; suspense; surprises; requires unique approaches to disassembly/assembly, etc. Your controlled demeanor and no frills process makes this one of the best channels out there. Thank you for doing these for us. I recognize how much time is involved in producing one of these quality videos.
Thanks for the great feedback.
You are spot on my friend. James takes the time to make a quality video. Not only educational but extremely entertaining. I did find myself talking to my PC about not lapping the values.
the rope with sanding paper....very kleffer. Re-use gaskets is a bad idee, special that from the cilinder head
@@garrydonnelly6433 ügyi út 0:50 😅xyyz😮😮my úgy úgy úgy uxx😮z ytyux 😮7 uca y😮uuyyydy dxxyb
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If this guy is a surgeon he will be the one doing surgery to me, very careful and very steady hand. Thanks for another amazing video, awesome step by steps explanation/ instruction. Learning a lot from you thank you sir..
Thanks
Not bad.. I used to rebuild old lawnmower engines as a kid of 12 -14.. (that was back in the 60's) the compression I always strived for was 105.. But I would hone and cross hatch my cylinders lap my valves, everything was mic'ed and in proper tolerances.. other wise my dad would make me do it again.. I got to do my first car engine at 16.. and to my surprise it actually ran and lasted for many many years until I sold the car... I am to old and broken these days (I did my last car restoration 2 years ago a 62 t-bird) So now I just watch others do it.. thanks for the memories brother I appreciate it.. I also wish you luck with your you tube channel... Carry on!
Thanks. Still new at the rebuilding. Did my first at 47 (this year). I think you have a few more years experience. I hate publishing rebuild videos because there are a lot of more experienced people watching. But that is how I learn. My Dad was never good with tools so had to teach myself. Thanks again.
At 24:00 those are those are not crack in the crankcase. they are heat crack in the die that casted the crankcase. I was a mold maker that made molds for zinc and aluminum die cast molds and have seen lots of those heat cracks. Those surface defects you see in the casting represent an well used die that made a lot of castings. They are nothing to worry about in the casting other than visual appearance.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Hey great video, I am a merchant Marine Chief engineer for the past 25 years working onboard ships, I just wanted to point out something I learned from an old-timer regarding torque, the reading can be off as much as 25 pound feet when stacking hands on tool the higher up on tool the higher the reading not sure if that is true on small torque settings, I bought 3 10000exl for $150.00 all run 1 had blown head gasket, blowing oil out front seal, replaced seal head gaskets lapped valves reassembled now I am getting 140psi each cylinder plan to test later today. Just wanted to say thank great video series slot of help
Brian Ryder
Thanks for the tip. Definitely will have an impact on the torque, but sometimes have to do it. The Generac 10000 EXLs are very nice machines. That was a great deal.
Soap and washer and kitchen sink. I use them all the time to clean up stuff. My wife hate it but she is used to it by now. One thing I use it for is to clean up dirty sprocket cover on chainsaws. After cutting wood they are filthy. I scrape off caked up sawdust and oil and then coat them with Dawn and hit them with hot water and a scrub brush. They are immaculate when I get through. I shake off any loose water and wipe them dry with a couple of paper towels. I then put them on my workbench in the sun to dry. I do this as one of my first steps cleaning the saw, so they have time to dry. I also crank up the saw after cleaning to redcoat everything with some bar oil - don’t want metal parts rusting during non use. Have never had any problem doing this. If the sprocket cover is really dirty I may spray it with degreaser before washing. I also use the sinks sprayer to get rid of any sawdust hidden in cracks and crevices. Stihl sprocket covers are much easier to clean than Husky covers.
Never saw that rope & sandpaper trick before! Awesome! Can't wait to try it myself.
An old guy showed me something cool. Cut the head off a bolt so you have a stud, then cut a groove (widthwise like a flathead screw) like an inch deep or how ever wide your emery cloth is. Now you put the emery cloth in the slot and wrap it around and you can put it in a drill and have a poverty dremel.
Thanks James. I've learnt a lot about gasoline engine repair and rebuild. God bless you.
You're the best mechanic out there for small engines
I was supposed to remind you of something. Can't remember what it was. It drove me nuts to see you put back the old black rusty cover. 2 minutes with a paint can. It is still the best video ever.
The cover was eventually replaced.
I don’t think it’s possible to know less than I do about mechanical engineering, much to my late father's disappointment, but I thoroughly enjoyed this video.
Can I also compliment you on your filming, it was excellent and we could see everything in detail.
Thanks
Best episode/tutorial yet.............really useful demonstration of small engine repairs, even for some serious damage. Pro Tip - A lot of people now use a oiled wet stone to clean decks and heads, it keeps the surface true and cleans up well.
Thanks. In this case did not matter. This engine did not survive the previous damage. It has a knock.
The valve hit was clear to see when you first took off the head. Because of it I would fear the valve head was bent. Reseating/grinding the valve would have proved it would still seal at a minimum cost and effort. Nice result all the same. It's easy to see the joy you get from getting them going just right. Congratulations.
hey im from canada my name is guy my phone number is 905 920 3915 i really need your help with a question about a generator please i watch you all the time but please and thank you
Thanks James. I learn so much from these. I appreciate all the work you put into making the process of diagnosis and repair so easy to follow.
Thanks
The hands of a surgeon! Nice work
Thanks
woah my mind was blown that sanding with rope is some 200iq stuff right there, good video cheers
added it to my future skills really was a great tip.
Thanks
I've watched many rebuild vids over the years, and a few of them where the crank journals were smoothed over w/sandpaper - this is the 1st time I'd ever seen that rope/sandpaper technique.
Really enjoy the videos that you are putting together. You are a great educator. Rebuilding for the first time and you have really given me hope I succeed. Thanks.
Awesome, thank you!
I loved the video. You teach in a way that makes me feel like I am in a class room. I loved that you spent your time to do this video. I love to learn more each day in life. In my life time I have worked on small one cylinder up to eight cylinder Diesel engine generators. Each unit has a character of its own. Size does not always matter.
Thanks Wayne
You are a great mechanic which are hard to find.
Fixn to start a 17.5 broke rod..Ran up on you ..Thanks for the video...Alot work..
You've made my day...my week, James. Great video....you're such a talent.
Thanks
Your the first I've seen that has finished sanded a journal the correct way!
That rope trick now lives in my back pocket. Thank you sir
You bet!
Nice work, I'm glad that engine was able to be saved, now it has a fresh rebuild and should provide many hours of service on that generator if taken care of and not run low on oil again.
James, one of my favorite head and cylinder block mating surface cleanup is sandpaper sheets on a piece of tempered glass . The Subaru guys seem to like this method as well since 2 cylinder heads are small , and the blocks are manageable when split.
Agreed, that is a good solution. Have done that myself.
Nice video! I loved the method of sanding the crank with the rope and strip of sandpaper. Thanks!
Thanks
I rebuilt the exact same motor, exact same damage, I was able to remove all the aluminum that was galled onto the crankshaft with sodium hydroxide. After polishing the crankshaft was still at brand new specs and you couldn't tell it seized. All it needed was head gasket, crankcase gasket and connecting rod. Engine runs perfect now
Nice. I cut the footage, but measured and was well withing spec.
@@jcondon1 the guy I got it from didn't know to add oil after removing from the box it was basically dry inside
I just rebuild a mower I hand picked off the scrap heap.....Great instructions Thank you!
Thanks
Great video! See 9:55 for piston valve strike marks.
I have this exact same generator and engine. Same problem as well. Broken rod. It must be a common issue with these engines. Thanks for sharing this video. I have never built an engine before but im going to attempt it because of this step by step. Wish me luck.
Good idea with the rope to help wet sand the journal came out super nice good as new
Thanks
I luv the way u meticulously do your work
James Condon very well done
Thanks
You are an excellent tutor, I watch your channel more often and learning a lot.
Bless you
I love the rope sanding trick. That's a new one for me. You do great work.
Thanks 👍
Nice video! General practice dictates anytime new rings are installed, 60 degree cross hatch pattern applied to cylinder wall as it helps the rings to seat. Love the trick with the acid, amazed the crank was not harmed.
this was great to watch James! learn things every time i watch! thank you
Thanks
Nothing is "junk". A lot of useful parts there !!!
Concise well made video Good job. Only negative for me is music . Your skill and demeanor are pleasant to watch. I cant believe you worked on that engine on the floor it would kill my back. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I try to work on the bench when possible. Did I put music in this one?
@@jcondon1 Actually it was in a different one my apologies
You do a great job with your channel and I enjoy your videos. A suggestion, if I may. I spent way too many hours working on the floor on my hands and knees and kneeling and squatting. It took it's toll on me physically and it manifested itself later in life. Please consider getting a lift table or at least move your projects onto a table and work more comfortably. It will pay big benefits when your beard turns gray. You only have one back and two knees. Thanks for what you post. Very informative.
Thanks. Already mostly gray. Trying to use the workbench more. Most of the time I am sitting on a short stool. Will get a lift table at some point. Only do this for an hour or two a day so hopefully not doing too much damage.
Thank you for saving me the time and hassle of pulling the flywheel off of mine. I guess these modern magnetos don't use points and condenser, at least not under the flywheel.
Awesome video. I really liked your rope trick to get the flywheel back on.
A late comment. You really need a 5 gallon bucket of Evapo-Rust. Even though one won't see much of the flywheel it surely will look better and you can toss in the crank shaft as well. The stuff works great. As always IMHO!
Always a leaning experience watching your videos, I guess that's the point isn't it. You instill confidence in all those who watch, I'm sure. I know you do me. Thanks again, James.
Thanks!
I love autopsies.
@@Ottie193 I know little but his breaking down the engine and his descriptions are excellent. I'll watch it again.
Great videos suoerb. I just have to say though ive never seen anyone so obsessed with torque specs.
I have been accused of torquing my tooth paste tube to 5 in lbs. Not so obsessed, but figure I would get more negative comments if I did not.
@@jcondon1 I like that you use torque specs, as it's a great way to not over torque a bolt. I have strong hands, and I also don't grip the handle at the very end (using a regular ratchet) but grip further up the ratchet handle sometimes to not accidently over torque too.
This is the most satisfying video I’ve seen in a long time.
Thanks
That head looked better than new when you were done with it!
I am the god of the lower back - they call me common sense. You have been brought to my attention and I am here to tell you-
design a cheap overhead crane (come along) and GET YOUR WORK OFF THE FLOOR". You deserve it and many blessings will follow.
Do not hesitate, do not think about it. Just get your work off the floor. PS - You vids are technically perfect- great job.
That refresh on the journal was pretty cool. I had a bad head (Honda ATC) with scored cam journals and I never thought to try and clean it up. Nice work!
Thanks. Was surprised how quickly it cleaned up.
been learning a lot of new things on the way with your videos have been watching all a few times over and over ...
I've been waiting for this one. Love that rope sanding trick. Thanks so much for another really great video.
Glad you liked it!
I never stop learning, Thanks for this great video James!
An alternative to spinning your valve in a drill press is to roll the shaft of the valve or a pushrod on a piece of glass. Doesn’t have to be anything special, the glass from an old picture frame will do. Glass is very flat and very unforgiving. It will expose any bend in the valve head or bow in a straight shaft. Glass is also a great tool for testing bearings.
It still gets me every time, the ware and force the rings are subject to, the oil control are so thin, now granted they're not under a great deal of tension but they are hot and moving
The 100 doller parts washer at harbor freight works great for me for stuff like this and even large engine parts might be worth it for you
Some day. Got young kids and a garage full of toys! Not much room for serious equipment. This is still a hobby.
@@jcondon1 I have 6 kids totally understand that hobby is different then a career I own automotive shops and computer shops and I run full time mobile repair for both computers and automotive so I use it a ton might not be for you right now but it does come in handy for 100 bucks compared to a few of the exspensive 5 grand units I have that have active live bacteria in them
AweSOOOOME. Nice save and even more exciting for you now that you have a machine to put it on already too! $100 for a generator with a blown engine is crime imo. I've gotten good running generators for $100 and $150 here in north central NC! Thanks for the education and keep them coming, James! Was great to see you on Ken's live stream last week too. 👍
I have gotten some great ones too for less the $100. But normally pay more for junk up here. Every time I visit my mother-in-law in the Shallotte NC area, I always look for good deals to drive home with, never find any. Just figured people there just know how to take care of there stuff.
Great instructions, motor sounds like a new one.
Thanks. Time will tell.
Good restoration
Thanks
Love these videos! Seems like you get lots of briggs and that is what is cheap around my area too! I have 5 in my garage as we speak and you got me started.
I more Briggs videos in the works. Another one that ran out of oil and one with top end issues.
What is the red fluid you used on the crank etc ?
Excellent video bravo! Adjust that governor and you're in business! A+
For cleaning the crank I would have used sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner, lye, whatever you want to call it) since it completely destroys aluminum without attacking the steel. Acids will cause steel to rust and corrode while sodium hydroxide will not do anything to steel.
Nice trick with the rope and sandpaper btw.
Will give that a try next time. Was worried about the steel corroding/rusting which is why I used that cut rag strip to try and keep it off everything else.
Yup, drain cleaner full strength is the ticket. Restored two cranks that way. Don't waste your time with oven cleaner - it's not strong enough. Oven cleaner does work wonders on getting the burned on oil off, though. Be advised: drain cleaner in high concentration in water creates an exothermic reaction. Don't use plastic to contain it. Ask me how I know.
@@danmiller6880 yes, mixing either Sodium Hydroxide,Potassium Hydroxide or Lithium Hydroxide in solution with water makes a lot of heat.
While watching the last video i was thinking: “i really hope the next video will be an engine rebuild”
You literally read my mind😂
Was glad I could make it live again.
Since you had this engine torn down that far, I would have lapped the valves.
I check the leak-down and if not leaking I usually leave them alone. But it would not have hurt.
Wow ... the crank looks really good!
Thanks
Your voice and demeanor are reminiscent of old “Jack Handy”. Great videos.
Also of "this old tony" unless that was what you were referring to.
James, please replace your sump gasket. It is used to set the spacing / preload of the crank and bearings.
I put a new one on.
@@jcondon1 I saw that after watching the whole video. I remember that detail from small engine class the the gasket thickness is part of the clearance and in some cases you can order different thickness to adjust the end play of the crank. Please keep making interesting videos. You have an audience.
That rollock nylon bristle brush is the cats meow for cleaning aluminum mating gasket surfaces.
Wow one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on UA-cam and I’ve researched a lot of stuff to fix stuff is very educational and methodical the way you do things amazing thank you so much for this I have a troy built that a customer gave me when I was doing their floor that they started during a hurricane but forgot to put oil on it it’s a troy built 5550 and I think just the rings caught on the cylinder wall I haven’t taken the part yet but it moves just fine nothing seems to be broken but I think after watching this video it’s worth investigating thank you so much
Great video As always Brother
Much appreciated
I really enjoy your videos. Incredibly interesting and relaxing. Thanks for the effort. Oh, remember to get that lift table so you can save those knees and your back.....
Thanks.
Great video, but am I the only one stunned by the price of a piston and rod for that thing !?!?!?
When you consider you could by a hole engine at Harbor Freight for $99 it does seem a bit much. Of course that is only a 5hp engine and a standard crank. If they sold 10 HP engines with a tapered shaft, then would have made more sense to repower with a Predator Engine.
No you are not the only one...recently , the wife failed to miss a low stump with the 21” Craftsman mower. Not only did the flywheel key shear, but the flywheel hub just disintegrated in a major way. B&S wanted just a few dollars less for a key and flywheel that the entire replacement engine sells for. Fortunately there are guys on ebay that know what they have and sell used stuff for a fair price.
you should get yourself an air impact if you have a decent compressor. they are cheap and usually stronger than electric ones. that way you can zip off flywheel bolts easily
Would like it for flywheels. Most of the time I do this work at night and cannot use air tools without waking up the house.
@@jcondon1 well thats a diffent story then. From my experience an impact isn't that loud. its just the compressor. depending on how well your worshop is sound proof. might be worth looking in a big tank for reserve air. just a thought
I would have lapped the valves. Good job man.
Great detail on repairs!
And again you did a exelent job.
Don't forget to tighten and torque the valves
Thanks!
Hey Jim, just a suggestion in place of the muriatic acid, next go round try sodium hydroxide aka lye. It will dissolve the aluminum just as quickly as the hcl, and won't attack the steel like hcl will. It's also very inexpensive if you have a local Ace hardware. Really great video though, nicely done rebuild.
Thanks, will try it out next time.
I agree I have also used caustic soda to remove aluminum from a crank successfully in the past, also EM love your channel,thanks for the referral to this one.
@Shepard Titus very good keep up good work God bless you and your family and love ones and your friends and neighbors in the mighty name of Jesus Christ🙏👍🍾🍷🍷
Be extra careful when handling lye, as it will turn your skin or eyes to soap and you won't feel pain until it's too late. But yeah, I was thinking the same thing ... lye is tough on aluminum and easy on steel.
@@wryanddry2266 .hi i
Nice great job James
Thanks
Hey Jim, I really enjoyed your video clip. Thank you for sharing.
This mechanic is very skilled as a teacher.
I want to say thank you for this video I learned a lot about the rocker arm assembly for the piston mine has the same exact problem now I know what to do thank you
Im going to have to remember that rope sanding trick. bet it would do great for other sanding projects too.
i love youre videos im a carpenter n cant even change a spark plug
Very nice job. I think you lapped the valves but I did not see it in the video. I usually take off the aluminum from a crank the way you did and sometimes I just polish it off with a very fine emery cloth. Great video. Thanks
Thanks
Nice work.
I would have put a dial indicator on the valve and measured runout while I had it in the drill press, rather than just eyeballing it. You can get one and a magnetic holder for like $15.
22:34 Still kind of worried about possible leakage from the cracks in the case. But you gave it a good two-hour test after all. I'd probably have tested the case by filling it with hot oil before ordering parts.
I agree, need to get a dial indicator. Since making this, have rebuilt a couple other Briggs engines and the newer ones all seem to have those cracks. Not great, but seems to be normal for this engine.
Seems like I pick something new up with each video of yours I watch. The sandpaper/rope trick is my: “something new I learned today“. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? This old dog still has a thing or two to learn.
Sandpaper/rope trick was epic! Definately learned a new one!!!!!!
Have also heard that you should only sand in one direction.. Not sure which, but the professional polishing machines only go in one direction.
James when you hone a cylinder don't use WD40 use old motor oil much better for honing blocks and better for the cylinder good video
Fantastic information as usual.
Thanks
I love it. To bad Harbor Freight can’t sponsor you !
great job James ! ENJOYED..
Thanks
I can only imagine the squeaks and then shrapnel sound it made when that rod locled up on the crank
That has to be the best thrown rod aftermath I've ever seen.
Maybe. I put it on a generator recently and that noise I thought was the tins, is a knock. Maybe I will get it right next time.
@@jcondon1 Sounds like the piston hit that head fairly hard. Perhaps the damage isn't in the valve but the rocker or the head itself.
Anyways, that block is in great shape for having thrown a rod. I'm used to there being freshly installed window that the conrod placed.
Rudofaux normally the do make a window in the block. Not sure what I missed, but actually swapped out all the lower and top end and still sounds like a knock.
@@jcondon1 Humm..that's quite the conundrum. I can't be pre-ignition knocking because of how small engine's ignition system works.
I'm sorry for speculating. I know your know your stuff & you have the engine with you. I know you'll find the source. Love your content by the way.
Nice work. You do very good work. Don’t be afraid to post your stuff. (Engine rebuilds)
Love the low buck ring compressor 🙂
Thanks. People usually comment on how they don't like it. I actually have a real one now.
love your videos keep them up
Thanks
Your video's are great man, I'm learning so much from you.
Glad to hear it!
Sizzling is hydrogen being released, small amount of aluminum so I wouldn't be too concerned but be careful if you ever use it on larger amounts, hydrogen mixes with oxygen and is very unstable and create explosions. But good choice using hydrochloric acid to quickly dissolve the aluminum and leave the steel maybe slightly etched, smart dude we have here!
Great job!!! Excelent video... 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks