You are a magnificent teacher. You explain everything in a way that is so easy to understand. I don't understand why other people make it so complicated. It is hard to understand them. You have an art. Thank you for sharing.
Very well said Dylan, I understood everything you said, and I know nothing about roofing! ~LOL~ I came here to learn what this blue underlayment was that my neighbor across the street is having put on his roof today. The roofers roll it out, blue side down, silver side up and then they (I assume here) are hitting it with a staple gun, many many times as they go down the roll. Never seen that type of material before, but after watching several other video's on UA-cam and now yours, at least I understand what it does. THANKS FOR POSTING SIR! NiceSeeingYou from the Land of Lincoln, in Illinois🙂
Hey brother thanks for the tips ..Im a bricklayer and I hate to pay people to do things I can do. you make it easier to understand a lot thanks from Portland ,Oregon Stevo
I just watched one of his older videos from 2020 where he explains it exactly like you said, underlayment goes over the drip edge on eave and under the drip edge on rake end. Not sure why he did it differently in this video, maybe because of the ice and water shield was installed, does that make a difference? I'd still imagine it would go over the drip at eave end...
He seems to be more concerned with ice than water all year round. I don't agree with what he did either. It gets wet a lot more than it ices in my opinion.
@@gary24752 Which manufacturer? GAF's instructions for leak barrier is here: ua-cam.com/video/_FdHiX61SIE/v-deo.html. @0:35 they specify leak barrier is installed over the drip edge at the eaves, and under drip edge at the rakes. The video we are commenting to, "How To Install Roofing Underlayment" is contrary, as evidenced by the installation of the drip edge over the underlayment(s) @8:20, to what GAF describes for their products.
Thank you, you have great videos. Easy to see what you're doing, clear instruction and now I'm going to be able to confidently put roofing shingles on my chicken coops on my own:)
Hey my friend, Change your name to ABOVE AVERAGE ROOFER! You have the skills, the talent, and the Integrity to do the job as a Professional! THAT'S NOT AVERAGE!!! That is being a Skilled Profesional! And you can Teach! Take it from a retired Contractor who retired after 40 years! Thanks for your great videos.
Glad to see you cover the ice shield with synthetic to prevent the shingles sticking to the ice shield. I just use Deckbase instead. I really hate ice shield. Its stuck to the roof for life. Who wants that.
Nice video, the company i work for we put a 1 foot strip on the bottom edge first then drip, then the full roll on top of the drip so the drip edge is sandwiched with ice and water
Thank you for this. Very helpful video because you answered all of my questions, comments and concerns. A project like this, do it right the first time
After doing more research with conflicting information, I’ve come to the conclusion that this doesn’t matter what order you install your paper/drip edge.
If your only doing one of the two the drip edge goes on top all metal will sweat and cause condinsation and rot the roof deck best way is to go under the drip with membrane and on top with synthetic
Hi Dylan, another great and sensible video! I've learned so much from the several I've already watched. Question or your opinion. ... i plan on putting up a 10 X 8 shed. I live on Long Island. Do you think both of these underlayments are necessary for a shed, that borders the woods? I appreciate your opinion on this. Thank you again for your videos! Rick
Good afternoon Rick. Firstly, thank you for watching and I’m glad it’s helped you out. I recommend at least synthetic underlayment, even on a shed as it’s an added layer of protection. Ice and water shield is only necessary if the building has an internal heating source. If it’s just a regular shed with no heat inside, I would just skip the ice and water shield and just cover the entire decking with synthetic underlayment. Hope this helps!
I love all your stuff! I'm a fan. Can you do a video on steel roofing? Maybe build a wood frame over shingles and then install the metal roof? Details like what size nails and screws would even be cool. Do nail guns fire steel nails? Is galvanized nails & screws really as good as steel? Do you like nail guns? Is it better to hand nail with steel nails? Are steel nails too expensive? For metal roof installation are drivers (aka a screw guns) a good investment? Thanks! PS- Oh yeah, for the metal roof frame of 1 inch x 4 inch x 10 feet wood, does that need to be attached with a driver screw gun to the roofing joists? How do we easily find those joists for placing the wood frame over the old shingles? Thanks!
@youraverageroofer Love your videos! I have a couple of beginner questions as I begin a small roofing project. 1. I notice you don't use many nails for the storm shield and the synthetic underlayment. Do you only need to nail the corners, and edges every couple of feet? 2. I'm sort of racing with the weather -- If I do the storm shield and synthetic underlay, can I do the shingles in the spring? or is that a bad plan?
I apologize for the late response. Hope I’m not too late, do not rely on underlayment and storm shield to protect your home from the elements as they have a limited uv rating and will deteriorate fast if left exposed. Also, in this video we use a small amount of nails as an example. If it’s not sufficiently secured, it may come lose while installing the shingles or could become a slipping hazard. Use common sense when applying nails to ensure product is properly fastened. Best of luck!!
Very good explanation! I came across other videos, but you explained better than anybody else! I see people suggesting cap nails for the underlayment. Is there any specific reasons you don't use them? I'm planning to build a shed and that's why I have lots of questions. Thanks.
Like the videos, but I'm a bit confused. In your drip edge video it correctly states that underlayment along the eve must go over the drip edge and now it shows you nailing down the underlayment along the eve without the drip edge installed.
well I tried sorting out which goes down firstly yet got lost in all the comments plus I already put down the drip edge then nailed down the underlayment afterwards .....so now im gonna go throw down some shingles and just hope for the best I guess : |
Really dumb question. If you were placing solar panels on your roof, would it make sense to do a ice and water barrier on the entire roof and then cover with underlayment? I’m assuming that you would have to improve ventilation with a roof vent. Any thoughts?
We wouldn’t recommend it as is doesnt allow proper ventilation for the plywood itself and will most likely do more harm then good. Simply add small patches of ice and water at the locations of the anchor point and a full synthetic underpayment everywhere else. Hope this helps!
Cuz he doesn't know how to do that he only knows what he's been taught but yet trying to teach somebody else to do it the wrong way you are absolutely right synthetic you are supposed to install synthetic felt with round cap nails and there's different codes and different states so know your codes because where you live does it make it right in every state
Excelent explanation, but i have one objection as i learn....the sintetick underlayment comes on top of ice membrane but the code says the ice protection should extend for 2 feet...correct? So, we still going to have a layer or two of shingles sticking on top of icing membrane...
@@rekostarr7149 any water that could penetrate the roof higher up the slope due to faulty install, low nail, directional rain or water entry from a wind blown shingle would run down the slope and over the drip edge into the gutter rather than underneath it causing moisture at the fascia board.
I have a concrete tile roof. There is tar paper over a plywood substraight. The hook stripe is nailed down on top of the tar paper. Behind the hook stripe, the tar paper will swell up and Crack and then begin to leak because of standing water. Should the tat paper been glued down with roofing adhesive first. I would just like to know why the paper failed. I am in the process of removing the paper and installing some ice and water shield with synthetic over the top. Your opinion.
Hi. Just curious. In another video you installed the drip edge underneath the synthetic underlayment, but in this video you went on top of the ice shield and also on top of the underlayment with the drip edge. Any reason for this? I thought I understood, but now I'm not sure if I should go in between the ice shield and the synthetic underlayment or not. Can you please explain?
Gutter apron goes under your ice and water so the water runs over top of the gutter apron your synthetic felt goes under the drip edge on your rake edges
Our house is a contemporary roof line with a 2/12 pitch roof and the last time it was roofed(approx 18-20yrs ago), all 98 sheets of original plywood was replaced and ice and water shield was put down over the entire roof along with architectural shingles.(apparently without any underlayment between the I&W and shingles). I needed to replace some rotted fascia board and a small strip of the roofing ply (approx 6" x 64") those shingles were just as you said totally stuck to the ice and water shield and the roof. What a nightmare. I had planned on slipping out a few shingles, replace the decking and slip in some new shingles(I still had some unused new shingles.) I had to hire a roofer(friend of my brother)and he was able to get them in there with thankfully no leaks. Is there a way to separate the shingles from the ice and water? Maybe with a heat gun or torch. I've noticed a minor leak or two in a different area and hopefully it's just a couple of misplaced nails from the orig install and I can fix rather than replace any shingles. I really enjoy your videos.
100% they would be stuck. Most contractors like to use the expression of “f the next guy” but that can cost a homeowner thousands in the long run. Especially if it’s your forever home!
As a 35 year roofer I will tell you asphalt singles are not desined for a 2/12 pitch. Even on 3/12 pitch I drop my exsposer on the shingels to 5" indeed of 5 and 5/8 .
Another great vid man, how about when you get to a hip in the roof can you just stop the ice and water/ synthetic and start again on the other side? Run a piece vertically down the hip??
Most of the time you will go over the hip with your ice and water and synthetic, then the other face of the roof will lap back over to completely cover the roof. Some manufacturers recommend ice and water down all the hips but it’s not necessary. Although it can be an added barrier of protection as hip/ridge is vulnerable to blow offs.
You just have to go over the hip a few inches, because when you put the underlayment on the other side, that side can cover the hip by a few inches and it will be overlapped both ways. Just try not to slice through it when you're cutting your shingles along the hip. Slightly lift it up as you're going or if you're used to using a hook blade you should be able to do it if it's laying flat.
Im about to do my main roof this year and Im kinda old school as in felt paper. So this synthetic stuff Im guessing outlasts the shingles? The only advantage I can find tar paper has is it better for environment after land fill and its cheaper. Any thoughts on felt vs synthetic would be appreciated.
If your in a freeze thaw climate with snow you have to install the ice shield 3" over the plywood and down the fascia. Then install the drip edge. If you have gutters and they fill with ice they will back up the melting water under the drip and between plywood and gutterboard. Read the manual. I have witnessed this firsthand for the past 50 years. I have seen soffits filled with ice back to the interior wall.
What do you do when you're not on a new construction? When the house has gutters already? The gutters sit pretty much flush with the plywood and there's a slight angle to them but still won't be able to get even an inch down. I lived in saskatchewan and we had -50° weather and we never had to take gutters off to do that. You're aren't telling me that you should take every single gutter off to get 3" down the fascia right? That's insane.
I have a 18 x12 catio that I have to reroof. I've been trying to find the best leak barrier and underlayment for it to be a metal roof. Under the osb I will have 1 1/2 r tech to control temp. Any advice
Great video!! I’m so glad you addressed the issue of reroofing with the ice and water issue. My shingles were basically glued down just like you said to the ice and water I ended up taking a hook blade and cutting all the dang half shingles off and going over it didn’t want to replace all the plywood around the whole house ugh!! I wish I would have known about the synthetic underlayment when I originally roofed it!!! Now I know🤓
Some do it first, while some other will install it afterwards. I recommend after so your ice and water membrane fully adheres to the decking to prevent the bottom of the plywood rotting, and it also helps with sealing the nails on your drip edge.
If you’re doing roll roofing (ex. self adhering)first install base sheet, then drip edge. Then prime your drip edge with a bonding agent, then install cap sheet.
what if the synthetic paper installed is all wrinkled and not flat on the roof? Can it be left that way or need to be perfect? I nedd yo know asap because my roofer left it that way.
It can have some wrinkles. Not a major problem as long as it’s not holding shingles off the substrate which is highly unlikely. The only issue is most likely just being ugly to look at while they do their installation of the roof. You’ll never see it again
Great information man!! I have a question do you ever install a strip of ice and water at the peak if there is no ridge venting? Thanks keep them coming👍
So, the shingles dont atick to the synthetic but they stick to the ice membrane under sun heat. that why you choose to cover the ice membrane with synt underlaymnt completely...normally, we should leave 2 feet from the bottom edge to protect roof against freezing.
No, the shingles DO stick to the synthetic underlayment layer, which is easy labour to remove when its time to pull the aged shingles off again, because the synthetic paper does NOT stick to the ice and water shield below it, it simply keeps the shingles from touching the ice and water shield
Was the underlayment you put down first and the second sheet you covered the same thing only inverted bottom face up with the paper still on or were they different products ? also I thought the drip edge was to be under the underlayment as I saw in another of your videos ? sorry to bother you and thanks very much !!!
Not the same. One is called "ice barrier" or "ice shield" the second is felt paper/synthetic paper. Yeah that is the eave drip it should have went on the sides not the bottom.
Is the ice and water shield for the entire roof or just the gable and chimney valleys? Same for the synthetic underpayment, entire roof or just the valleys. My quotes are unclear.
Ice and water shield is recommended along all eaves, valleys and around roofing penetrations such as chimneys, pipe boots, etc. Optional along gable ends.
Yeah but that bottom drip edge should have went underneath your underlayment cuz with you doing it that way water can still run behind there and therefore you got a leak
But one thing I do like how you show is when your shingles stick to your ice guard it's hard to get that off unless you beat your shingles with the hammer it will end up coming off to where you don't have to change the wood but with you doing it the way you say is it understandable and easy way I completely agree with you
You are a magnificent teacher. You explain everything in a way that is so easy to understand. I don't understand why other people make it so complicated. It is hard to understand them. You have an art. Thank you for sharing.
So are you Vicky 😍
Well done. You are a credit to your profession. You are far from average.
Very well said Dylan, I understood everything you said, and I know nothing about roofing! ~LOL~
I came here to learn what this blue underlayment was that my neighbor across the street is having put on his roof today. The roofers roll it out, blue side down, silver side up and then they (I assume here) are hitting it with a staple gun, many many times as they go down the roll.
Never seen that type of material before, but after watching several other video's on UA-cam and now yours, at least I understand what it does. THANKS FOR POSTING SIR!
NiceSeeingYou from the Land of Lincoln, in Illinois🙂
Awesome video man, straight to the point very informative. This is how tutorials should be. Thanks
Hey brother thanks for the tips ..Im a bricklayer and I hate to pay people to do things I can do. you make it easier to understand a lot
thanks from Portland ,Oregon
Stevo
If you can do it, why are you watching a video on how to do it?
You've helped me to roof sheds and chicken coops, so thank you so much for putting out these simple concise videos!
The synthetic is supposed to be installed over the drip edge at the eave end. Then install drip over the underlayment on rake ends.
Yes he did it wrong. Needs read the codes
@@maryglasser404 in NC it’s required by the manufacturer not the state since drip edge isn’t code here
I just watched one of his older videos from 2020 where he explains it exactly like you said, underlayment goes over the drip edge on eave and under the drip edge on rake end. Not sure why he did it differently in this video, maybe because of the ice and water shield was installed, does that make a difference?
I'd still imagine it would go over the drip at eave end...
He seems to be more concerned with ice than water all year round. I don't agree with what he did either. It gets wet a lot more than it ices in my opinion.
@@gary24752 Which manufacturer? GAF's instructions for leak barrier is here: ua-cam.com/video/_FdHiX61SIE/v-deo.html. @0:35 they specify leak barrier is installed over the drip edge at the eaves, and under drip edge at the rakes. The video we are commenting to, "How To Install Roofing Underlayment" is contrary, as evidenced by the installation of the drip edge over the underlayment(s) @8:20, to what GAF describes for their products.
Dude this is exceptionally well done. I’ve been teaching skill trades for decades and this was a top notch video. Thanks for it.
You have an excellent, clear, concise and understandable way of explaining all this. This is a great help... Thanks!
Thanks for making these videos. They are more helpful than a lot of other roofing tutorials on youtube.
Great video, simple and understandable!!!! What if I used staples instead on nails on my underlay, how bad is that? Metal rod going on top.
love the new intro, thanks for the tutorial!
Glad you like it!
These series are invaluable, thank you!
Tks for a very simply explanation. Easy to follow and understand even if english is not my first language.
I was wondering if I should install underlayment over the ice and water membrane. This video answered my question.
Wow. I didn’t know this was the proper way to do it. I thought just put on the house wraps and done. Thanks for the nice video.
Thank you, you have great videos. Easy to see what you're doing, clear instruction and now I'm going to be able to confidently put roofing shingles on my chicken coops on my own:)
Hey my friend, Change your name to ABOVE AVERAGE ROOFER! You have the skills, the talent, and the Integrity to do the job as a Professional! THAT'S NOT AVERAGE!!! That is being a Skilled Profesional! And you can Teach! Take it from a retired Contractor who retired after 40 years! Thanks for your great videos.
Thanks for the video! What was the point of starting the roll with a slight overhang on the left eave?
I don’t understand how you don’t have 1 mil subscribers bro. I love your content!
Thank you. I appreciate it!
Glad to see you cover the ice shield with synthetic to prevent the shingles sticking to the ice shield.
I just use Deckbase instead. I really hate ice shield. Its stuck to the roof for life. Who wants that.
Absolutely it will not come off. That’s why I do this, as it can be done about 3 or 4 times before having to replace the plywood.
Great job explaining how the pro’s do the job right, thank you.
Very well explained
Nice video, the company i work for we put a 1 foot strip on the bottom edge first then drip, then the full roll on top of the drip so the drip edge is sandwiched with ice and water
That’s an insane amount of protection! I like it! 👌🏼
Thank you for showing us and using your materials!
Thank you for this. Very helpful video because you answered all of my questions, comments and concerns.
A project like this, do it right the first time
Nice video overall. I do wonder why you put the drip edge on the eves on top of the underlayment?
Bandaged finger...Priceless...
Cut in a mitre saw.
drip edge on eaves shall be installed under underlayment -- R905.2.8.5.
..it is under the under layment...but on top of ice/water shield. like it should be.
I am not a roofer at all...but I thought the synthetic paper goes over the top of the drip edge in the other video... glad you still have the finger!!
After doing more research with conflicting information, I’ve come to the conclusion that this doesn’t matter what order you install your paper/drip edge.
@@YourAverageRoofer Thank you!
@@paulashford4155 no problem!
If your only doing one of the two the drip edge goes on top all metal will sweat and cause condinsation and rot the roof deck best way is to go under the drip with membrane and on top with synthetic
Very clear, and easy to understand instructions. I feel like i can roof my garage now. Subscribed thank you
Hi Dylan, another great and sensible video! I've learned so much from the several I've already watched.
Question or your opinion. ... i plan on putting up a 10 X 8 shed. I live on Long Island. Do you think both of these underlayments are necessary for a shed, that borders the woods?
I appreciate your opinion on this. Thank you again for your videos! Rick
Good afternoon Rick. Firstly, thank you for watching and I’m glad it’s helped you out.
I recommend at least synthetic underlayment, even on a shed as it’s an added layer of protection. Ice and water shield is only necessary if the building has an internal heating source. If it’s just a regular shed with no heat inside, I would just skip the ice and water shield and just cover the entire decking with synthetic underlayment.
Hope this helps!
@@YourAverageRoofer Thank you so much! Yes, now that you've explained it, your advice totally makes sense! Appreciate you!🤗
Great job man! Doing a roofing project this Saturday and I know a lot more now!
Best to install the ice and water shield on a cool day. I did it when it was hot and it stuck so strongly that it was very difficult to align.
Thanks for these vids. You do a great job, straight forward, no bs...
I love all your stuff! I'm a fan. Can you do a video on steel roofing? Maybe build a wood frame over shingles and then install the metal roof? Details like what size nails and screws would even be cool. Do nail guns fire steel nails? Is galvanized nails & screws really as good as steel? Do you like nail guns? Is it better to hand nail with steel nails? Are steel nails too expensive? For metal roof installation are drivers (aka a screw guns) a good investment? Thanks! PS- Oh yeah, for the metal roof frame of 1 inch x 4 inch x 10 feet wood, does that need to be attached with a driver screw gun to the roofing joists? How do we easily find those joists for placing the wood frame over the old shingles? Thanks!
Man I want to roofer now .thanks for the skilled pro-tips you are the best
@youraverageroofer Love your videos! I have a couple of beginner questions as I begin a small roofing project.
1. I notice you don't use many nails for the storm shield and the synthetic underlayment. Do you only need to nail the corners, and edges every couple of feet?
2. I'm sort of racing with the weather -- If I do the storm shield and synthetic underlay, can I do the shingles in the spring? or is that a bad plan?
I apologize for the late response. Hope I’m not too late, do not rely on underlayment and storm shield to protect your home from the elements as they have a limited uv rating and will deteriorate fast if left exposed.
Also, in this video we use a small amount of nails as an example. If it’s not sufficiently secured, it may come lose while installing the shingles or could become a slipping hazard. Use common sense when applying nails to ensure product is properly fastened.
Best of luck!!
My compliments on excellent practical and easy to understand videos. Way better than average!
Are those round circles on the underlayment where you are supposed to put the nails?
Very good explanation! I came across other videos, but you explained better than anybody else! I see people suggesting cap nails for the underlayment. Is there any specific reasons you don't use them? I'm planning to build a shed and that's why I have lots of questions. Thanks.
Like the videos, but I'm a bit confused. In your drip edge video it correctly states that underlayment along the eve must go over the drip edge and now it shows you nailing down the underlayment along the eve without the drip edge installed.
A do a video on how to corner a drip edge with out cutting a hole peace at the end of roof edge
Do you nail down that underlayment with multiple nails? Or just like how you did it?
Thank you! Everything we needed to know, you told us!!!
Using IKO now, thanks for this
should the drip edge be under the protective layers?
Why doesn't the flashing on the eave go under the underlayment and ice shield?
what do u recommend to install in florida? is it possible just synthetic underlayment?
Great video. Thank you for showing this.
well I tried sorting out which goes down firstly yet got lost in all the comments plus I already put down the drip edge then nailed down the underlayment afterwards .....so now im gonna go throw down some shingles and just hope for the best I guess : |
Really dumb question. If you were placing solar panels on your roof, would it make sense to do a ice and water barrier on the entire roof and then cover with underlayment? I’m assuming that you would have to improve ventilation with a roof vent. Any thoughts?
We wouldn’t recommend it as is doesnt allow proper ventilation for the plywood itself and will most likely do more harm then good. Simply add small patches of ice and water at the locations of the anchor point and a full synthetic underpayment everywhere else.
Hope this helps!
@@YourAverageRoofer yes - thank you!!
Excellent information especially for a beginner like me. Thanks!! Wow easy peasy!!
How come you don’t use plastic caps on synthetic underlay?
Cuz he doesn't know how to do that he only knows what he's been taught but yet trying to teach somebody else to do it the wrong way you are absolutely right synthetic you are supposed to install synthetic felt with round cap nails and there's different codes and different states so know your codes because where you live does it make it right in every state
Quality information as always! Looking forward to more.
Excelent explanation, but i have one objection as i learn....the sintetick underlayment comes on top of ice membrane but the code says the ice protection should extend for 2 feet...correct? So, we still going to have a layer or two of shingles sticking on top of icing membrane...
so should underlayment go over all ice n water in valleys etc?
Shouldn't you put a drip edge underneath and not on top?
Pretty sure it's drip edge over ice shield, under underlayment
@@brandonleblanc9611 Yeah after some more research, this seems to be the correct method.
@@HighTimesTrader why?
@@brandonleblanc9611 why?
@@rekostarr7149 any water that could penetrate the roof higher up the slope due to faulty install, low nail, directional rain or water entry from a wind blown shingle would run down the slope and over the drip edge into the gutter rather than underneath it causing moisture at the fascia board.
Hi, I live in Lake Elsinore California will you help me with my roof please.
what brand n model ru using/recommend for the ice&water underlayment and synthetic underlayment?
On your drip edge installation video, you said the drip edge goes under the underlayment on the eaves, but here you put it over, which is it?
Over ice shield so you get full adhesion to the roof deck with your ice and water.
I have a concrete tile roof. There is tar paper over a plywood substraight. The hook stripe is nailed down on top of the tar paper. Behind the hook stripe, the tar paper will swell up and Crack and then begin to leak because of standing water. Should the tat paper been glued down with roofing adhesive first. I would just like to know why the paper failed. I am in the process of removing the paper and installing some ice and water shield with synthetic over the top. Your opinion.
.Perfect example Dilly...exactly the way I do it. *5 Stars.
Grace ice and water on a hot windy day! Good times! Average Time!!!
Oh the joys of hot grace! 🤦🏻♂️
Hi. Just curious. In another video you installed the drip edge underneath the synthetic underlayment, but in this video you went on top of the ice shield and also on top of the underlayment with the drip edge. Any reason for this? I thought I understood, but now I'm not sure if I should go in between the ice shield and the synthetic underlayment or not. Can you please explain?
Gutter apron goes under your ice and water so the water runs over top of the gutter apron your synthetic felt goes under the drip edge on your rake edges
Why no use of cap nails? Most manufacturers require them for warranty.
Should you install the ice and water on the roof edge and up the roof rake
Our house is a contemporary roof line with a 2/12 pitch roof and the last time it was roofed(approx 18-20yrs ago), all 98 sheets of original plywood was replaced and ice and water shield was put down over the entire roof along with architectural shingles.(apparently without any underlayment between the I&W and shingles). I needed to replace some rotted fascia board and a small strip of the roofing ply (approx 6" x 64") those shingles were just as you said totally stuck to the ice and water shield and the roof. What a nightmare. I had planned on slipping out a few shingles, replace the decking and slip in some new shingles(I still had some unused new shingles.) I had to hire a roofer(friend of my brother)and he was able to get them in there with thankfully no leaks. Is there a way to separate the shingles from the ice and water? Maybe with a heat gun or torch. I've noticed a minor leak or two in a different area and hopefully it's just a couple of misplaced nails from the orig install and I can fix rather than replace any shingles. I really enjoy your videos.
100% they would be stuck. Most contractors like to use the expression of “f the next guy” but that can cost a homeowner thousands in the long run. Especially if it’s your forever home!
As a 35 year roofer I will tell you asphalt singles are not desined for a 2/12 pitch. Even on 3/12 pitch I drop my exsposer on the shingels to 5" indeed of 5 and 5/8 .
Hey I saw a guy just use a hammer staple tacker, can I use that instead of those nails or is the hammer tacker for some other type of underlayment?
Excellent Video thank you.
Plastic Round Cap Roofing Nails, These are the correct nails for Underlayment?
So the bottom drip edge on the gutter eave seems like it will take water down the wood instead of off it.
Another great vid man, how about when you get to a hip in the roof can you just stop the ice and water/ synthetic and start again on the other side? Run a piece vertically down the hip??
Most of the time you will go over the hip with your ice and water and synthetic, then the other face of the roof will lap back over to completely cover the roof.
Some manufacturers recommend ice and water down all the hips but it’s not necessary. Although it can be an added barrier of protection as hip/ridge is vulnerable to blow offs.
You just have to go over the hip a few inches, because when you put the underlayment on the other side, that side can cover the hip by a few inches and it will be overlapped both ways.
Just try not to slice through it when you're cutting your shingles along the hip. Slightly lift it up as you're going or if you're used to using a hook blade you should be able to do it if it's laying flat.
@@Josh-ww5kz thank you Josh! 👍🏼
Thanks fellas!
You put your ice barrier and your underlayment under the drip edge? Do you add one more layer of underlayment over the drip edge?
Im about to do my main roof this year and Im kinda old school as in felt paper. So this synthetic stuff Im guessing outlasts the shingles? The only advantage I can find tar paper has is it better for environment after land fill and its cheaper. Any thoughts on felt vs synthetic would be appreciated.
If your in a freeze thaw climate with snow you have to install the ice shield 3" over the plywood and down the fascia. Then install the drip edge. If you have gutters and they fill with ice they will back up the melting water under the drip and between plywood and gutterboard. Read the manual. I have witnessed this firsthand for the past 50 years. I have seen soffits filled with ice back to the interior wall.
What do you do when you're not on a new construction? When the house has gutters already? The gutters sit pretty much flush with the plywood and there's a slight angle to them but still won't be able to get even an inch down. I lived in saskatchewan and we had -50° weather and we never had to take gutters off to do that.
You're aren't telling me that you should take every single gutter off to get 3" down the fascia right? That's insane.
If you have problems ya take them off . If your a contractor you should have figured that out when you first looked at it.
If you don't fix the problem then you definitely will have a problem later.
I have a 18 x12 catio that I have to reroof. I've been trying to find the best leak barrier and underlayment for it to be a metal roof. Under the osb I will have 1 1/2 r tech to control temp. Any advice
Commenting for support.
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Me to... biggtime
Great video!! I’m so glad you addressed the issue of reroofing with the ice and water issue. My shingles were basically glued down just like you said to the ice and water I ended up taking a hook blade and cutting all the dang half shingles off and going over it didn’t want to replace all the plywood around the whole house ugh!! I wish I would have known about the synthetic underlayment when I originally roofed it!!! Now I know🤓
how come you didn't use round cap roofing nails?
Can you use regular underlayment tar paper
So the gutter apron doesn’t go on first?
Some do it first, while some other will install it afterwards.
I recommend after so your ice and water membrane fully adheres to the decking to prevent the bottom of the plywood rotting, and it also helps with sealing the nails on your drip edge.
@@YourAverageRoofer what if water runs underneath the drip edge? doesn't sound too ideal.
Can you cover entire roof with ice and water shield
If I’m doing rolled roofing. Do I put drip edge under the underlayment , ice n water shield or roll roof ?
If you’re doing roll roofing (ex. self adhering)first install base sheet, then drip edge. Then prime your drip edge with a bonding agent, then install cap sheet.
what if the synthetic paper installed is all wrinkled and not flat on the roof? Can it be left that way or need to be perfect? I nedd yo know asap because my roofer left it that way.
It can have some wrinkles. Not a major problem as long as it’s not holding shingles off the substrate which is highly unlikely.
The only issue is most likely just being ugly to look at while they do their installation of the roof. You’ll never see it again
@@YourAverageRoofer Ok thanks.
Great information man!! I have a question do you ever install a strip of ice and water at the peak if there is no ridge venting? Thanks keep them coming👍
Why small head nails for the ice water shield?
very informative. Thank you!
So, the shingles dont atick to the synthetic but they stick to the ice membrane under sun heat. that why you choose to cover the ice membrane with synt underlaymnt completely...normally, we should leave 2 feet from the bottom edge to protect roof against freezing.
No, the shingles DO stick to the synthetic underlayment layer, which is easy labour to remove when its time to pull the aged shingles off again, because the synthetic paper does NOT stick to the ice and water shield below it, it simply keeps the shingles from touching the ice and water shield
Will this product without underlayment on new sheathing??
Hell yea! Average time!
#StayAverage
Does this process apply to Concrete tiles as well?
Keep up the good work bro
shouldn't you wrap the ice and water shield a couple inches over the fascia boards? I think that would better protect the wood at the edge.
Was the underlayment you put down first and the second sheet you covered the same thing only inverted bottom face up with the paper still on or were they different products ? also I thought the drip edge was to be under the underlayment as I saw in another of your videos ? sorry to bother you and thanks very much !!!
Not the same. One is called "ice barrier" or "ice shield" the second is felt paper/synthetic paper. Yeah that is the eave drip it should have went on the sides not the bottom.
@@Eastahtata Thank you you are awesome !!!!
Is the ice and water shield for the entire roof or just the gable and chimney valleys? Same for the synthetic underpayment, entire roof or just the valleys. My quotes are unclear.
Ice and water shield is recommended along all eaves, valleys and around roofing penetrations such as chimneys, pipe boots, etc.
Optional along gable ends.
Thank you much sir
Anytime! *hat tip*
Yeah but that bottom drip edge should have went underneath your underlayment cuz with you doing it that way water can still run behind there and therefore you got a leak
But one thing I do like how you show is when your shingles stick to your ice guard it's hard to get that off unless you beat your shingles with the hammer it will end up coming off to where you don't have to change the wood but with you doing it the way you say is it understandable and easy way I completely agree with you
Thank you
You’re very welcome!
Ok so let me make sure I got this right...its weather guard, drip edge and side edge, underlayment, shingles and step fascia, then ridge cap?