How To Install Drip Edge On A Roof
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- Опубліковано 10 кві 2020
- In today’s video we go over the basic techniques to installing drip edge and rake edge on your roof.
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In the next video we will show you have to install starter shingles and begin your shingle courses.
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Thanks for the lesson !!
That was probably one of the worst instalations I have seen!
@@stephansomerset6967 and a few things you
Good job Dylan 👍
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What if you started the rake drip edge so that half the length goes past the apex of the roof? That way you can make a cut right at that apex and fold the remaining drip edge down the other end of the roof. This would prevent having to marry up the two drip edges right at the apex
You are so kind, your instructions are clear, and easy to understand. Thank you, Dylan!!
Like your style Dylan, no BS, fluff, and irritating music, just good, well presented, instruction. Good job!
Clear and concise. Everything I need to know and no blahblahblah. Thanks!
I love this format -- concise and to the point. So many out there put out videos that are 50% filler information just so they can talk. Thanks for the information.
Exactly what I wanted to confirm, presented in a clear and concise manner. Thank you.
I have been watching all of your videos for the basics of roofing because I have a small project. I have to say you're very talented and your videos are clear and precise right to the point. Thank you for putting in the time to create these videos. This was such a big help.
You’re welcome. Best of luck with the project!
Very good. I will playing these videos and taking notes. Will be studying these videos.
Are you in Ontario, CANADA ?
@@PIANOSTYLE100 following his instructions is the worst thing you could do
This was very helpful. Even if Im not a roofer I can check out a roofers prior work before hiring. Knowledge is power . You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you for providing a great resource for the "average homeowner". I'm finishing up a DIY 8x16 foot shed and if the weather holds today, I'll shingle it confidently now.
Thank you for taking the time to show us about the importance of drip edge. I bought a house and discovered later no drip edge around roof perimeters and substandard work / lack of flashing on chimney and gables. Valleys were "basketweaved" with architectural shingles which I was told voids their warranty. I am able to go to view UA-cam and see videos like this where I can see and learn. Roofs are expensive to replace/repair and I didn't expect to worry about a re roof for several years; now I do. Again, thank you and I appreciate your time and trouble. It is so easy for some of the others to make snarky comments but then again, it takes very little to type some degrading comments and a whole lot more to take the trouble, time and resources that you did. Not to mention it bespeaks the lack of character of the snarks.
Wow! I have been trying to learn about ice & water shield, synthetic underlayent and drip edge. I watched several videos and still did not quite get it ... now I get it. You used that small mock roof which really placed everything down on my level and finally as you explained how cutting the back end of drip edge and tucking it around the corner seals the whole corner of the house much better than just butting it up together, it suddenly became clearer. I even gained more clarity about underlayment being installed UNDER EAVES and ABOVE RAKE edge. Hey, what can I say except thanks? Now I'm ready. LOL
Valuable lesson for free. Much appreciated. Just had my gutter fall off my back porch roof from wood rot. The roofer who installed the previous drip edge must have done something wrong. The water used to drip right before the gutter, forming icicles in the winter, and after years of this problem the wood that the gutter was nailed into rotted and down came the drip edge with the gutter. I am getting a whole new deck but looking at the failed gutter it is easy to see the water got under the shingles and in-between the drip edge and gutter. If I was younger and had a long ladder I would have attempted a repair many moons ago and that is only if I saw your video showing how to first. Thanks and stay safe! 👏👏👍
I really appreciate how concise this video is. All information is straight to the point and relevant. Awesome video!
Really good video - a straight run is fairly easy, but the devil is in the details and the corners and ridges
Good to see a regular guy doing quality work
and he speaks perfect English
Thank you! Clear, quick and to the point. Exactly what I needed :)
Great video, man. I drive a desk at a large roofing company, but love our trade and always appreciate the opportunity to learn from experienced guys. Keep up the good work....!
Great video series! I couldn’t have reroofed my old shed by myself without this awesome video series with so many detailed tips.
I hope to God you didn't follow his tips
Am building a 10x12 shed right now. Tomorrow I will put on the roof, corrugated metal panels. Watched this video so I could put a proper drip edge on it. Thanks for making this. I'll do it the way you suggested!
Average Roofer is nice guy but the drip edge must be away from the facia board (most recommend 1/2" - 1") so the water does not get pulled back and drain along it.
I love this “no nonsense” very good instructional video. Really well done.
Straightforward, no more, no less. The best roofing instruction video out there.
Appreciate your time on this video!
I appreciate the effort that you gentlemen put into these tutorials. I'm an adjuster and it helps so much!
Good video. Although usually with steel drip, if you cut a notch out of the inner intersecting piece, you can get a tighter and more flush overlap. This way along 60-100 foot sections, you don't have a bump out or wavy drip along the fascia.
Very clear for all of us less than average roofers. Bless you.
Great explanation. To the point and no fluff. Excellent
Agreed. Use a 3/8" gap over gutters to prevent weeping back to facia board. Noted on This Old House.
If the fascia is wrapped in aluminum, no gap is necessary because the gutter board is protected by metal. Let the shingles hang over the drip edge by 1 inch to ensure the water goes in the gutter and not behind it. Leaving a gap opens up the possibility of wasps and carpenter bees having access to the wood.
Good Job, you helped me out today thanks
Great video - thanks for being direct and clear with your instruction!
I really appreciate you are taking your precious time to teach us all your Tricks and your knowledge about installing roof. I am looking for a great roofer, and the reason why I am watching your videos is just to be knowledgeable about this procedure, so I know what the roofers are talking about, when I discuss the price and their procedures how they would install it. Thanks again. Your videos are awesome! 🎉🎉🙏👍
Hey man , Videos are great and descriptive , followed your advice and my drip edge turned out great !! Thank You !!!
Good video. Very informative and well presented. I appreciate you taking the time and making the effort. Keep making this kind of useful work.
You’re a great teacher sir. Thank you.
You are so talented and you explain each step so well. Thank you for making these videos. They have been very informative and easy to understand. Love it!
Good job man! I appreciate your time and intention. 👍
This is actually the latest design of drip edge and he’s doing what the manufacturers requirements.... right on d 💰 money👍 thanks for this video ✌️😍
Thank you, I appreciate the lesson. Video will made, after viewing half dozen others, yours gave me the knowledge I was looking for. Made for the avg homeowner.
I start my roofing training today. You’re videos are great.
Great video mane, keep it up, you’re an awesome dude
Are you his relation, are you for real
Good quality work. I am a roofer & that's close to how we do it. If you're overlapping & cutting angle on ridge, it's all good. Most homeowners who see that are very pleased
Boy am i glad that I found you !!!!! you make it seen so simple thanks I am skilled but thanks to you I will be able to do the right sequence on my roof and my vent Again Thanks
Great video! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experiece. Your instructions were clear, concise and professional.
Great job brother!!! Love the simplicity of up your vids I do all my roofs the same way you guys do yours ! Love to come out an work a day for you guys!!!
Louie Perri that would be awesome to have some viewers come out for a day or two!
@@DoItWithDill let me know lol!! I have my WAH ticket and all my own equipment I am down brother!!!
I wish I had a dad to teach me this stuff but thank god for good youtube video like this!
Hey my dad was dumber than a nail. oh and he still is. ha. good luck with everything vadimxp
Thank you for this video . It helped me with my problem
On my old roof, a couple of places, the drip edge on the rake overlapped other way around. Too many junk roofing companies. Thank you for the video.
It's very important to leave a decent gap between the drip edge and facia board to keep the water draining straight down (most recommend 1/2" to 1"). A 1 x 2 furring strip works well Also, be sure to extend the shingles 3/8" - 1/2" beyond the drip edge to prevent water from getting sucked back and up - This Old House has a great short video showing why and how.
ua-cam.com/video/9wMMqsBAXlM/v-deo.html
Yeah not true.
I saw the same thing and it is indeed true
whats the point if you're installing facia metal and gutters?
Much of today's house's seem not to have a furring strip, which I believe is the best way to do it.
Do put it on, up the rake also. Wish I would have done that 30 years ago. Now have some rot on the end of the roof boards, and perhaps into the end rafter also.
I wanted to comment and repeat what most have already said-EXCELLENT video and explanation. You have done so much right that the majority of youtubers screw up-QUIET background music, CLEARLY HEARD easily understood instructions, WELL LIT and stable video, and best of all-NO BS "entertainment" factor. ALL meat and no bones. You should make a video on "how to make a UA-cam instructional video" for other people to study. You may be "Your Average Roofer" but there is NOTHING average about this video! THANKS so much....liked and subscribed.
Good video my man , very basic and straight forward to the point, I’m sure like myself most of us are doing sheds and small projects, thanks for the heads up.👍
Deadly exactly what I need dude thanks
Wish all roofs where 5 foot off the ground 😉
John Wightman wouldn’t that be the dream?
Well...if you are 4 ft tall or less....it'll work!😁👍
Someome should invent some kind of tower apparatus or platform that can be constructed on site to the level required then be able to be taken down and moved to another site.
@@booshallmighty there already is one , his name is Fred Dibnah
@@carmineredd1198 Fred’s dead Redd, Fred’s dead.
Very well explained! Thank you.
Great job, I have a 6 year old roof, the roofer took shortcuts, they installed rake edge but not drip edge. That’s not the ONLY shortcut they took either.
Great video & instruction.
Buy the Midwest blue handle long blade aviation snips . They arw the best!
At the top of the rake, you should silicone the where the two drip edges meet, other wise wind driven water WILL get under it and go all the way down the rake, possibly into the sheathing edge your trying to protect.
While I'm not a roofer, as a home owner I appreciate your explanation of this.
Nice work. Very clear and professionally executed. Thank you!
It's better to leave a gap between the drip edge and fascia. With direct contact, the drip edge will run the water right down the fascia and rot it out. A gap is also ideal for gutter installation.
My fascia has aluminum on it, and the back of the gutters slipped up easily between the drip edge and the fascia.
There's a fascia install that fits behind the drip edge before the gutters go on...
I was gonna say the same, but saw your comment.
Leave a small 1/8" gap. I have repaired many fascias water damaged by too tight drip edge.
@Fred Bush III were in Canada with our climate we all do aluminum fascia the drip edge needs to be tight to hold your facia. If you leave a gap it will flop and youll have to screw it and it will oil can badly. The gap thing is for old houses with wood facia.
Right on man! Thanks a lot. You get right to the point! You helped me a lot….house and 2 car garage about to get done…4000 square feet!! Wish me luck!
I like that you show each step, even the ones some people might think are common sense. For beginners such as myself, nothing is common sense. Good Job!
Good video! The only thing I would do differently is to have the drip edge about half inch to a full inch from the fascia. If you don't, the water won't go into the gutter but down the front of the fascia and rot it out. The gutter needs to be installed behind the drip edge.
Good point. If there's no gap, water WILL dun down the fascia in moderate to heavy rain or during sustained light rain. Using a 3/8" gap is usually enough to prevent this... I'd be very waty of more than a 1/2" if living in a high wind region. 1" is far too much in very windy areas, allowing wind to tear off the drip edge if additional fastening is not done to keep it in place.
Additional fasteners can be used, but you run the risk of heat/cold expansions and contractions doing strange things to the drip edge that can affect the integrity of your roofing, as well as creating a degradation of the professional appearance of the roof's edge.
@@jkbowers56 I don't even measure, I just do a finger width. I have never had issues with wind.
Great idea using a smaller mock up to demonstrate techniques for teaching. Have you any tips or videos on repairing Hardie Plank ? I had a shed made out of Hardie panels years ago and top right corner has some damage. Need to seal and protect, doesn't need to be perfect.
Michael Blast you’re looking for a video example of how to fix the decking?
@@DoItWithDill no not decking, it's a cement board type of material that's called " Hardie " panel or Hardie Board... The shed was custom made... I was wondering how you'd approach such a repair ? I figure you may have come across a variety of materials. * I think it's like cement board. I'll look again at the sticker.
@@MichaelBlast Have you considered using thin set and mesh to correct damage if it is a small enough area that you could finish it to blend well enough? Not speaking from experience but rather adding to the conversation if anyone has a reason this wouldnt be correct im interested.
Thanks for taking the time man. Appreciate it!
This video is extremely helpful. Thanks!
He explained it so easy,,made it seems so easy..But How do I install a drip edge if I already have shingles on if i bend the shingles too far back they will break..
cause he explains what you think is correct how can you easy explain wrong way whats funny is other
so called roofers correcting his fault or do i say faults
That’s why you install the drip first always
Should cut 1/4 inch long on either end, bend the face around the corner and cut rake edge accordingly. You may like it.
Great video! Makes the installation instructions so much easier to understand.
Your roofing explanations are the best
We call it "Drippy" here in Canton, IL.
Macomb here
drippage
Hi, first thank you for the awesome video man. My question is about the bottom drip edge. Do you overlap the same way as the side? Or what's the proper way to over lap it?
Pixel2 Xl as long it’s on the roof gable it’s preventing wind driven rain. As for overlap we generally say do the eaves (bottoms) first then overlap your gable (rack edge) I top of the eaves metal.
Yes you overlap your drip edge joints the same way he showed for the rake edge joints.
Thanks! I am making a small roof over my daughter's archery target stand. I've never used flashing before, so this was really helpful!
I'm a new material handler for ABC SUPPLYS INC the reason I'm watching this video is so that I will have a better understanding of the materials I handle everyday and also so I will have an understanding of what the Roofing contractors I've build a professional relationship with on a day to day basis
For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge.
For low slope roofing you must install your base sheet, drip edge (with primer adhesive over all metals) then install your cap sheet.
@@DoItWithDill Thanks. It actually detached from the shingle roll. The drip edge metal had been painted by the Mfg. And the mastic still won't come off of it after 33 years. I bought Loctite polyurethane roof and flashing sealant this time.
As a seamless gutter installer - huge pet peeve - when the drip edge is bent at the eaves🤬 i also use gutter apron on the eaves & drip edge on rake. Midwest offset aviation snips - red and green👍
Yea I do seemless gutters and shingles everyday. I prefer it not bent around corner. That way when I go to install gutters it’s not a pain in arse.
Gutter apron!!! Why did he use drip edge smh lol
Question. Some roofers have said paper over drip edge, but direction on shingles says paper under drip edge. Which way is right
@@allennewman632 ice and water barrier over your gutter apron at the eaves👍
This guys a hack. Cut your corners flush no wrapping. And when you got drop around drop like he did when he over lapped it it makes it stick out. You cut a relief to stop that. And he used a tape to cut the easiest piece you out on a roof. I do whole roofs not tape
Excellent video. Very helpful!
Thank you so much for sharing your time and experience with us, DIY'ERS.
The drip edge should not sit against the fascia.
Then where the hell does it go
Hey please don't spread that information to put the drip edge tight to the fascia. You need to float it out at least 1 inch past the fascia. The gutter will only go under the drip edge at one end then you need to have slope. Thats why the drip edge needs to float out so it can still drip into the gutter when you add your slope.
Having your drip edge tight to the fascia will cause water to drip in behind your gutters.
I've owned my own gutter business for 11 years and I speak from experience. Customers would always call us after a new roof installation was done, saying that their eavestrough were leaking all over and the roofer said they needed a new gutter system. But really they installed the drip edge wrong!
If you think I'm wrong add a gutter to a 20 foot run have your proper slope at the other end. Yes you tuck your one end under the drip edge. But by the time you slope your eavestrough to the other end it won't be under that drip edge. In that section do a water test. Grab a water hose and let it run off the roof and you will see the water drip in behind the eavestrough. Most roofers don't install gutters to understand the importance of floating it. And you cannot tuck the whole length of gutter under the drip edge or else it would be straight with no slope. You need to have slope!
Roofers for years have been installing drip edge the way your explaining it and its wrong. Thats why you believe that's how you actually install it because you were taught that way.
Jason Lajaro is right. There is a TOH video demonstrating this. Not only the (important) gutter issue, but even if no gutters are present, having the drip edge tight against wood fascia will allow water to crawl back up between the drip edge and fascia due to capillary action (especially in wind blown rain, which most rain here in New England is). I just ripped out a bunch of rotted wood fascia due to the drip edge tight against it- it's best to leave a gap, although I'm not sure of the ideal gap - Tommy of TOH says "a finger"- I was hoping for something with more precise units but I think about a 1/2". Some people use a furring strip to create that gap but I don't see the point as then the furring strip will rot (and look nasty from below for runs visible from below) and in turn will eventually cause the fascia to which it is nailed to also rot. I think a decent quality/gauge drip edge doesn't need a furring strip to support the required gap.
is 1'' too much.. I was told by a roofer to leave it 1/4'' off?
Good info, but does that advice also apply to the rake edge or just the eaves edge?
@@jeclose Just the eaves edge.
@@christopherr7195 1/2 inch for the drip edge and shingles should extend a further 1/2 inch for a total of 1 inch.
Thanks! Clear, Concise, Professional!!!!
much appreciated the lesson bro. Awesome, straight to the point. this is what i need. thanks a bunch.
This guy looks like Sean O'Malley!
They’re not left handed snips, genius, they’re actually “right-cut” snips
Ok cool np
just what I needed.... Thanks bro!!!!!!
Thank you for the information,straightforward and well presented.
Any suggestions how to nail the drip edge after shingles installed. My shed needs a drip edge
True North Muskoka using a flat pry bar, carefully remove nails along gables approximately 4 inches inside from the gable edge. Do this all the way up the gable. Insert drip edge by tucking it in below the shingles ensuring not to damage the shingles, and making sure it is fit securely to the roof decking. Once in place, replace the nails you removed along the gable edge and make sure you nail the drip edge during your re nailing process. Do no face nail shingles. Also make sure nails are covered by shingle course to prevent the nails from rusting and leaking.
Your Average Roofer thx. Appreciate it
I have a question. On the first Z flashing, you put it under the felt paper but on the gable end, you put the flashing on top of the felt paper. Wouldn’t you want that flashing underneath the felt paper for the gay boy and also?
It should be on top on the gable. This way if any water get under it stays on top of the felt.
On top of the fascia drip edge to allow any penetrating water to drain off without touching your plywood decking.
Great drip edge teaching. Somebody did the roof on my garage that has a patio and failed to install drip edge and wreck edge. As you can imagine, now the edge of the play hood is getting wet and will spoil soon if I don’t install it. Thanks again for that great video.
Excellent video! It’s obvious you know the trade. Thanks
What's your opinion on having the drip edge over hang by a 1/2 inch? This Old House has a video describing that it is needed to keep rain water from contacting the fascia board.
Mike Mays it does work however it’s an extra preventative measure and isn’t actually necessary. Drip edge made by a good manufacturer is already bent out a half inch from the fascia board.
@@DoItWithDill True, but it can still wick up behind the drip edge if it's in contact with the facia board. That's why some manufacturers make a "double" drip edge (see Rite-Flow drip edge to see how it works.) I've never seen the usual drip edge, pressed up snug against the facia board that didn't sheet water down the facia board. Go out during your next rainstorm and watch. It needs to stand off from the facia board a bit or use the double drip edge. Otherwise wood facia boards have rot in their future.
How about bending the top piece and cutting a relief below? This way no water can enter.
That's what I do...I would never install it with 2 pieces butting each other...your asking for a leak
Spencer Hall absolutely. I ve seen a lot of guys do a lot of different things re drip edge and flashing. Lot of code confusion sometimes and /or common sense. So of the new stuff like ice/water barrier vs felt stick to the roof as you put it down leaving some confused - drip edge under? Roll the material down the fascia then drip edge? I just watch an experienced roofer do it the wrong way. At the rake do you put drip edge over it or under? Again he got wrong.
Come on.. Do you really think that there's going to be enough water hitting that area to cause a problem? Fascia boards are meant to resist some rain. They are on the outside of the house right?
All you have to do is when your piece hits the ridge, cut it slightly so it doesn't poke out the other side of the roof, then snip off the bottom lip of the drip edge, then when your drip edge comes from the other side, cut it flush with the fascia angle. There's a overlap underneath and the two peices should be snug to eachother. You can even have the bottom lip of the drip edge that's overlapping, clip onto the piece that's behind it.
@@Josh-ww5kz yah I mean both ways will work no ones disputing that, but the relief cut won’t allow any water in at the peak.
Awesome video, love how you care about the details, great craftsmanship.
You the man! Got a big double wide and have had hell with the gutters....leaking behind them etc....took them off and long behold....no drip edge in alot of places 🤦🙍 so fixing that then a new ridge cap...thanks bubba
I do the corners different. Instead of cutting it all the way, I cut a slit and bend it around the corner. To me it looks better
You should rap all faical up the Gable two inches
You could even wrap it.
Fascia not what u said lol
Seeing it on the ground in the small model really helped me understand the concept
Great tips and excellent speaker ! I learned a couple things that i can definitely apply. Thanks!
Parker Schnabel doing roofs now?
That’s my doppelgänger 😂
Why would you cut your rake dripage at the top of the roof line instead of putting a bird's mouth in the bottom of it and folding it over so there's no gap for water to get in? That makes as much sense as wiping before you poop.
Fu***** thank you. How is what your saying not standard by now. Looks better too. I make a perfect ^ then the drip edge seems are equal length the rest of the way down just tuck underneath so your seems are not catching water
Can you recommend a video that demonstrates what you are talking about ?
Super useful and directly to the point - thanks!
I liked the way you explained the process.