Hey everybody watching, I've made an update videon this topic where I asked a physio about how all this works: ua-cam.com/video/0rAkLqk3UXM/v-deo.html As well as a follow along video for anybody looking to try it themselves, with the new protocol presented in the video above: ua-cam.com/video/3FNZdixeuZw/v-deo.html
Hi Emil, My searing question about the hangboard training is. Why does everbody train by only hanging? Isn't it way more effective for the tendons/muscles to grow by opening and closing the fingers/hands under tension/while hanging.
Been doing this now for a couple weeks… noticeable strength gains aside, this is the first time in probably 6 years that my middle finger pulleys stopped hurting. I could cry from happiness.
@@normanng3863 I have problems with the exact same pulley on my middle finger too, nearly one year too now and rest has never helped. After the first climbing session it would hurt just as much as before. I'm confident that this program will truly help!
This is a fucking awesome video. Straight to the point, lots of information without artificially drawing it out over the 10min mark, no ads or sponsors. In today's times I can really appreciate these kinds of videos.
Hey folks I'm noticing a lot of curiosity from you all in the comment section, which is awesome! I'm currently setting some bangers with Nikken and wont be able to respond to everything for a while, and I doubt I can respond to everything tbh. If you see a comment you're curious about, upvote it and a few of the ones with the highest upvotes I'll make sure to post an answer to later today/tomorrow!
Been struggling with finger injuries or fear of them for a while now and sort of hit a plateau. Your experiment is now my experiment as of 5 min ago:) My fingers feel nice and warm and the mild pump I get from gently loading the fingers individually feels very nice and different from what I'm used to! Thanks to you and your brother👊
Did you take callogen or geletin supplements before you did the protocol? It's mentioned in the paper you highlight and seems to be an important factor included in the study. Would be interesting to know if you did supplement or not.
An interesting technique. I decided to check it out, and trained on it for exactly a month. Twice a day, morning and evening for 10 minutes. I used 2, 3, 4 fingers, never one. I worked 60-80% of my normal strength. In most cases, I stood on the ground. I only made clean hangs on four fingers. For the purity of the experiment, I did not change anything in nutrition and climbing. Throughout the month, I felt like I was getting weaker and wasting my time. At the end of the month, I repeated the measurements I made at the beginning. Total, at the beginning, Hanging on 10 mm plank - 18.05 s. Hang on 20mm plank - 28.54 s. In the end of the month Hang on 10mm plank - 36.59 s. Hang on 20 mm plank - 56.43 s. That is, my results have improved by about two times. It's funny, but sometimes, contrary to subjective feelings, science works.
It seems like you went for a higher intensity approach that would be closer to power endurance. Have you trained specifically on power endurance on small holds before?
@@gamotousername I have climbed small hold boulders in nature, but have never trained this ability in the gym. In this case, I just decided to check the conclusions of the article for myself.
UPDATE: First off, thank you all a ton for the input. Lots of critique and lots of love, exactly what I like to see! Now it’s time for some further explanations and answers. Q: What did the rest of your training and climbing schedule look like during this period? Did you add or remove anything from your usual weekly training with the addition of this new protocol? A: I kept my training almost identical from December to January. No form of periodization and similar session-lengths. However, about 1 week after I started doing this my fingers started feeling a lot more durable, which consequently made me have climbing sessions where I pulled harder on small holds without my fingers opening up. I think a big part of the strength increase could’ve come from that. However, since there’s no good way to prove that that is why I got stronger, I left it out. Q: did you warm up before each session? A: Most of the sessions I did some very light finger warm ups, sometimes nothing at all. Warming up never hurts though. Since the intensity was so low it felt harmless, felt like the same risk as when carrying a heavy grocery bag honestly. Q: Two questions: How strongly did this increased finger strength affect your climbing ( do you think you can climb harder grades on crimps now )? and will you continue with this training after these 30 days (or at least do another 30 day block in a month or so)? A: This increase in my finger strength was incredibly noticeable in my climbing. My fingers have never felt this solid on small holds before. I’ll continue doing the program until I have a good argument against it (since it takes very little time and I sacrifice nothing for it) :-) Q: So in your benchmarking video 4 months ago you were able to hand the BM 20mm edge 1 handed for 7s. I was wondering what happened between then and the start of January and if your improvements could be more attributed to re-recuitment rather than actual improvements in strength? A: I would’ve included this, but my strength there is quite incomparable to my current state. I’d been bulking and trying to get really strong, I weighed like 4kg more than I do now. It had both upsides and downsides to it! (it was also shot ~ 6 months ago) The result I got in January better reflect how I most often perform on a hangboard. Re-recruitment could most definitely play a big part in it, but since I broke every record I’ve had before I’ll at least give some credit to the new program. Q: Did you do any other hangboard training during this period? A: I didn’t lift off the ground from a hangboard for a single second during this period (I did the 9c test before new years) Q: Did you take any collagen or gelatin supplements? A: The study states that this has a big impact on sinew health, but I was just curious about how the hangboard protocol would affect me so I made no dietary changes from december - february. Q:Do I understand it correctly that you did 10 sets in total, where each set was 1 minute in total, but consisted of only 10 seconds actual work and 50 seconds rest? That would be 1:40 minutes (100 seconds) of actual work and 8:20 minutes of rest. Which is much less than the 10 minute maximum advised in the paper. A: Good point! Potentially my gains would’ve been much greater if I did, for instance, 10sec on 10 sec off for 10 minutes. I was scared it could potentially be harmful and that it would be hard to find a good level of intensity, and therefore opted for a more careful method. I As mentioned, there’s a sample size of 1 in this video, so it would be arrogant of me to claim that this protocol is THE protocol people should try. Hopefully this can spark some interesting new experiments, and maybe in 5 years time we’ll have a perfect formula. To clarify, I hung for a total of 100 seconds in 10 minutes yes (with the exception of stretching my pinkies). Also, when it comes to the % of weight I take off when doing the weighted hangs: If you try the program, find your own limit and what works well for you. Ideally you should have a pulley system to see how much weight you take off, I just went with my gut feeling since I don’t have one. As somebody suggested I tried using a scale to see, and put in some approximations of how much weight I took off in the description. Why do I think this program is good? Basically it’s all about tendon health. If your tendons are good you can climb more which will get you stronger and better. This program is what I’m trying out in order to get my sinews, tendons and ligaments as solid as possible. Lastly, I did this two times per day including days when I climbed (except one or two maybe). You can consider a climbing session to be the same as a hangboard session, if you view it from a “molecular response”-perspective. The only big rule to try and follow is to give your fingers 6 hours rest between each session where you engage your fingers (hangboard, no-hangs or climbing sessions for instance), and then try and do as many as your schedule will allow. If it’s once per day, that’s all right. Three times? That’s probably great too! Rant over, I hope you enjoyed the vid and that I answered some of the many questions that would arise from this type of video!
TY! Maybe someone should put a quick description on how to adapt that to a lower level? I see people hyping, and wondering about 8mm edges + intensity percentages..
@@VAN_production.mp4 I lasted 3 weeks before slipping out of the habit. This reminded me--gonna get back on the horse now! In those 3 weeks, and since, I genuinely have seen huge improvement in all-round pulling strength. There's a doorframe in my house that I couldn't even hang for a millisecond from before, and I now can do 3/4 seconds!
This definitely worked for me. First off, been only climbing for 2 years and I’m 52 years of age. My baseline was a 9 second hang on a 15-20 mm on beastmaker 1000. Used a slightly different routine than Emil for the 30 days and got 23 seconds this morning. 156% increase and stronger on crimps when gym bouldering - thanks for the challenge Emil!
@@Sarah-rv4pv I still did the 10 minute sessions twice daily (unless I was climbing). One in the AM and one >6 hours later (all with low intensity assisted hangs). I started out on 4 finger pockets to warm up - 10 seconds on, 10 off and repeat up to 1 minute. Take 1 min rest and then begin again, using either the same or more difficult holds depending on how I felt. The hardest part is the discipline to make it happen consistently - but the results will happen.
I started doing this program the day after this video was posted. At the time I was nearing the end of rehabbing an middle finger A2 pulley rupture (probably 2-2.5 months out) and modified my grip accordingly. I’ve gone from hanging ~10 seconds off a 24mm edge pre-injury/intra-recovery to now hanging for 10 seconds off of a 10mm edge with ease!!!
I will say that over the past 1-1.5 months I’ve also done 2-3 extra sets to include either 3 finger crimps, minimal edge, or slopers. I also use the Tension Flash board for most hang sessions
For anyone who's interested in squeezing some strength training in these 13 minute sessions: Warm-up (feels like it's enough for me) * 30 sec dead hang 4 finger deep pocket/jug * 30 sec wrist circles (switch sides after 15 sec) * 30 sec squat * 30 sec finger squeeze/extend (keep tension actively) * 30 sec jumping jacks * 30 sec rest Workout : 10 second hang, 50 seconds for each exercise 1. Four finger half crimp on chosen edge 3x hang (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 10x pull-ups after hang 1 (jug or 4 finger pocket) 10x push ups (wide grip) after hang 2 10x hanging leg (of knee) raises after hang 3 2. Three finger-drag in deep pocket 3x hang (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 10 sec rest 30 sec jump squats 10 sec rest 10x push up (close grip) after hang 2 6x body tucks after hang 3 3. Middle two finger-pocket drag 1x hang (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 10 sec rest 30 sec plank 10 sec rest 4. Front two finger-pocket drag 1x hang (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 2x 3 offset pull ups (switch sides after every rep) 5. Middle two finger half crimp 1x hang (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 10 sec rest 30 sec jumping lunges 10 sec rest 6. Front two finger-crimp 1x hang (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 5x negative pull up (explosive up, 4 seconds down)
Been doing a similar thing during lockdown and it definitely works! I use the beastmaker app (the 7a workout on the 1000 of which I’ve never even got past the first set) but I now use one foot on a 30mm foothold. Not only has my forearm endurance increased but every hold on the hangboard feels easier now. Prioritising volume over intensity is now the way forward for me, especially being quite injury prone!
Im 2 days into training like this, went to the gym a day later and my fingers are already WAY STRONGER! Maybe its a mental thing, but this training is awesome! I love how you train by keeping your feet on the ground; as a hangboard newbie I thought you had to hang with feet off the ground. This was tough and also felt like I was going to injure myself. The training in this video seems to be way better to start and has already provided results.
Awesome to hear mate! Hope you keep feeling great and get good results. To this date I still do it regularly :-) I'm sure you know it, but just be careful so you don't overdo it and injure yourself when climbing!
@@karatewithelian9014 it's been one of the 2 most beneficial training focus areas for me to climb stronger. I haven't followed it as intently as I should due to life stuff going on, but if your muscles in your arms/shoulders are strong for hard climbing, I feel like it still doesn't compare to finger strength, and this would be the technique to follow. It's much easier to stick with in my opinion then a full hanging board routine cause it isn't as brutal, produces results, and is not as injury prone as other hanging training.
@@karatewithelian9014 Results were almost instantly good. You know those holds in the gym or outside that you can get a pad or 2 of your finger on that sometimes you have to desperately throw for, and it seems impossible to stick it? This training will make those types of moves possible. Also cranking down on a crimp to pull up to the next hold, this training will help with that. You could probably make your own board of sorts (2x4 board or thinner), but the grit from a hangboard helps strengthen your finger pads as well.
@@KennethThys not yet, annoyingly having a bit of work done right on the doorframe where the hangboard was... as soons as its up next week (fingers crossed) ill start it
@@timignatov7394 I started yesterday with more active hang time. I have a total active hangtime of 360 seconds. I'm curious on how this is going to work out :) good luck with that doorframe.
@@KennethThys 360? how are you splitting that? ... Thanks but i cracked after your comment haha. Went and hung the hangboard up somewhere else so ive officially started today
Hey Emil, I don't know how people do it, but there is some "new" feature in youtube - you can split video's timeline and assign a title to each part of timeline. This way you won't need to put "video schedule" as a text in your videos. Trackmania player Riolu uses it already and it's really convenient.
Just finished 1 month of your hang board protocol. I have added 10kg to my max ½ crimp hang. I am quite new to crimping so mabye newbie gains. Anyway thanks for sharing your results it motivated me to do something during lockdown.
Two questions: 1. Warm up? 2. Did you do any other hangboard training during this period? Im thinking of incorparating it into my training week (2 sessions of max hangs and one session of repeaters)
@@lebikSNB @Corey Munn I'm guessing this was more or less the only hangboarding but he continued his climbing training. Hopefully @emil will reply to this so we know 🙏
I'm 2 months in. I definitely didn't increase in strength the way you did. My hangboard results shows that compared to this winter I'm between 5-10% weaker (even 2 months into your proposed protocole). I did hangboard during those 2 months (not in max strength though (doing the 10-5 protocol of the Andersons), did quite a lot of ARC too. But my fingers DO feel really great right now! No injury in sight. No crunchy fingers of elbow problems. I'm using pulleys to have exactly 70% of my BW. Thanks for sharig anyway! I'll keep doing this protocole since I'm convinced it helps my fingers stay healthy!
Wow, that results are crazy. I really want to learn to train better, especially my finger strength. And I hopped that you will publish more about your training. So after the last videos I have to say that your channel has become my favourite. Thank you so much for your time and effort! :-)
Very interesting, thanks for sharing! Two questions: How strongly did this increased finger strength affect your climbing ( do you think you can climb harder grades on crimps now )? and will you continue with this training after these 30 days (or at least do another 30 day block in a month or so)?
Urgh.. I got an uncomfortable chill down my spine, when I saw the Calculus book in the intro.. Great video! I'm looking forward to seeing more people trying this, and the long term results.
When the video came out I could hang for 4.8 seconds on a 20 mil edge, after 2 weeks I could hang for 15 seconds and now after 1 month I can hang 5 seconds on the 10 mil edge
Emil i need to thank you for that workout routine! A few days after seeing your video I started to do it. Only with a few differences: 1. My smallest edge is a 16mm one. 2. I could not even hold myself on a 20mm edge so I just pulled as hard as I could without immediate risk of slipping. 3. I never did a real routine on a Hangboard before. I did not do it 2x every day but I tried to. It has not even been 30 days and I can really see a Difference already. I first noticed it when I almost kicked over the chair I'm always standing on when training. I did not slip off and I could pull the chair back into its position. So a few days ago after the workout I tried to hold on to the 20mm edge and to my surprise I could hold onto it for around 8 seconds. Totally blew my mind! So after another Minute of resting I tried the 16mm edge. And there I could hang for 3 seconds!! This was completely impossible before! This routine helped me a lot and I will continue to train that way. Maybe add some extra exercises as well. Thank you very much!
I think this show again how you benefit from lower stress over time, adds up its so nice for beginners to see that you dont have to hang with full weight to get results
What did the rest of your training and climbing schedule looking like during this period? Did you add or remove anything from your usual weekly training with the addition of this new protocol? Thanks
@@LukeRockCimber he is waiting 6 hours between each session right? I mean morning 10 minutes session, wait 6 hours, climbing training, wait 6 hours and then evening 10 minute session. I don’t find a clear answer to this. Or did I just miss something?
I do this for almost 2 months 5/7 days a week, my open hand strength becomes much stronger, i was pretty strong in full crinps +thumb overlay before, but not that strong in open hand crimps, that changed!!! Thanks for making this video!!!!
Amazing results! Interested to hear what the rest of your training looked like during the month and how you fitted the hangboarding in around it. Thanks!!
Dude. That is so nuts. Hang boarding has got to be the highest return for effort training ever invented. You improved astronomically, in only a month. Wow
This seems like a good idea, but I'd imagine alot of the real strength gains come from having healthy fingers which feel good for a month. Being able to crimp hard with no tweaks for a month would help alot of peoples strength probably.
Also seems like an extreme version of greasing the groove which is very well known in calisthenics. Just do submaximal sets throughout the day. My understanding of how that works is that it refines the neuro pathways. (i. E. Instead of getting more muscles, most gains come from a very efficient neuron firing pattern. So your body pulls "smarter" to pull harder with the same amount of muscle)
This is super inspiring. I haven't been training recently but have done a lot of hangboarding. For the last year or so I've just been climbing and doing calisthenics and stretching. I've been wanting to reboot some training and I am going to try this program for 30 days and will post my results in a reply to this comment, including baseline before and after. I'm an advanced but not expert climber (solid V6/5.12; max V8, 5.13-), 43 years old, climbing about 8 years.
Baselines taken today, all 4 finger fully open hand: On deep 4 finger (32mm on my BM 2000): +26kg = 22 seconds +35kg = 10 seconds +44kg = 4 seconds On shallow 4 finger (14 mm on my 2000): +16kg = 8 seconds +26kg = 1 second My weight doesn't vary much (65kg +/- a couple of kg).
So in your benchmarking video 4 months ago you were able to hand the BM 20mm edge 1 handed for 7s. I was wondering what happened between then and the start of January and if your improvements could be more attributed to re-recuitment rather than actual improvements in strength? Thanks
Maybe this protocol is effectively active recovery, which lead to a performance peak and let the finger recover for 30days, as he was obviously able to hang the Beastmaker 2000 4 months ago for 7s it could just mean he trained himself into overtraining and this light hanging left the fingers shining now
@@lebikSNB yep I would say the same. Impressive nevertheless his body goes from not being able to hang the Beastmaker edge to 14s. But I guess climbing would be a bit too easy if we could just hang a bit around and have impressive gains. Translated to the extreme it would mean I can go to olympic sprinter by just walking to the train station twice a day right?
I climb v6. I've altered your program slightly to suit my needs. In this article and in Keith Baar's collection of work, he highlights collagen as an integral part to this. I take 15g 30 minutes prior as he recommends Also, I added a single arm quarter pull up for shoulder integrity. I'm also quite a bit weaker than you guys! So 40% of my body weight is adequate. I weigh 109kg. I've been doing this for two weeks. Mine is: 10on:20off half crimp 25mm x 4 35mm 1/2 crimp single arm quarter pull x 3 each side 10:20 Pinch blocks 4 sets 10:20 Total time= 7 minutes I tried a set of both front three and back three the first week and my forearms actually hurt so I took that out and replaced it with the pinch blocks. So far, I'm definitely climbing stronger and have 0 finger pain. I'm missing a few pulleys so that's a nice change.
Such a helpful video. Informative and some fun moments (I saw that zoom-in on the beaver/squirrel with blue sunglasses). You even provided exercises that we can all easily do at home to strengthen our fingers while we may not be able to climb. Many thanks to Felix and you!
I'm definitely going to try this for numerous reasons but I also want to say that even if it doesn't do anything at all for me it's just crazy to see you getting such great results and for your sake I'm glad you thought it was worth a try Congrats dude !
I think Eric Horst has a hangboard routine for tendon health, and although that doesn't involve "no hangs", it involves just body weight on a big edge every day. That's the closest I've heard to this program I guess.
I would love to see more climbing focused research like you see in powerlifting and bodybuilding with folks like Mike Israetal, Brad Schoenfeld, Eric Helms, et al....
There is some, but climbing is a complex sport - strength etc is only a (necessary) fraction for success, eg movement skills, and the mental aspect. Check out Bobat's 9c test - JP has fb 8c+ strength and does a 6c route outdoors.
I started to hang (with my feet on the ground) on the smallest edge I have on my ocun fingerboard, which I was not able to hold before for more than a few seconds. After about three weeks practising very irregularly this kind of hangs, for no more than 10" a day I started seeing significant gains. I started working my moonboard 2016 about two months ago and had to spend a lot of time to top a single benchmark problem. After these three weeks I gave it a good session, where I flashed 5 problems and sent projects, I gave so many tries before. So for me. Yes
I've been doing this most days excluding days I climb and I'm impressed with how much stronger I am in my fingers. I was hanging around the 6B/C sports grade for a long time and now I'm much more comfortable on 7a/b garde climbs and even harder boulders which I didn't used to like climbing as much. Flashed a 7a today too! Thanks for the video
Hey Emil, thanks for that great routine. I'm still a beginner (1,5 years climbing), so I reduced it to one session per day for the last 30 days. My results are crazy, i did not expect that at all. My half crimp time on 15mm doubled and because of a soft injury a few months back I was not able to even hang 3 finger open. Today I did it without any pain for 20 seconds on a bigger edge. I did not climb before that 30 days because of local lockdown in Germany. So I was absolutly fresh at the beginning of the routine. I saw Hoopers video and I really respect his arguments but in my case it seems like I actually got stronger. I will have some days off now and start another 30 days. Thanks a lot for that great routine and all of your other videos. You're a great guy, like Erik and the others. Have a good time and stay healthy.
I’ve been doing this for about 4 months and have experienced great results! Thanks for this Emil! I would love to know your routine for someone who’s been hanging for a while.. as I’ve basically just been doing this same routine, but at 100% effort all the time
That's fantastic to hear! So what I can say is that my brother has kept doing it consistently for about 1.5 years now, and I've done it in a periodised form to play around. My only conclusion for myself is that doing it periodised only makes the effects more apparent for me (because every time I re-start it my fingers feel great), but it doesn't really improve anything for me. I'll probably start doing it continuously soon and just never stop. I've kept the same load throughout, and I believe my brother has done the same!
Considering you already boulder really hard and have previous videos of you training for v15, do you not think this is just a case of you learning to apply the strength you already have to a fingerboard, rather than making new gains?
Humble v9 boulderer here. I cannot for the life of me hang on the 20mm lattice rung one handed without having a 12kg assistance from a pulley. I am starting the program today, I will let you know if that makes any difference at all for us mere mortals.
Plus maybe a long period of active deload which has given the accumulative micro tears in the flexors/pulleys time to consolidate years of hard training. All resulting in being able realise his actual potential on the fb (as you said above)?
@@josephearley9530 yeah, it's definitely interesting. I'm not not convinced that it's all purely new gains. Would be pretty exciting stuff if it was all legit!
@@1989SeanSmith So I was happily dong the program when I started wondering if it could have any negative impacts and started doing some research. I Highly suggest this talk: ua-cam.com/video/CgcR5J1dwcY/v-deo.html which was kind of an eye opener. Tl;dr Emil's protocol is a great way to induce tendon stiffness and therefore perceived strength gains, but with an increased risk of injury. It is important to keep slow, heavy loads in your training routine to allow the tendons to keep their elasticity. I am still going to go through the program, but will cycle straight to a heavy load period.
Love this style of video! As i'm from a science background i'm loving the actual reference to an actual journal article to optimize training. I might try this myself!! Increase the sample size haha
One thing you don't really mention at all that and is mentioned in the paper is whether you took callogen or geletin supplements before the protocols. The study seems to emphasize this heavily. It points out that taking 15g before exercise has shown to almost double the callogen synthesis that took place and could be a factor in helping your tendons gain strength. I would be very curious to know if you did this to complement the training stimulus protocol?
What kind of collagen supplements do you take? I think a lot of collagen supplements are actually just snake water humbug, cause they claim to target the building of the collagen in your ligaments/sinews etc.. but really all it does is getting metabolized just like any other fat/protein when ingested. Or do some supplements have something in them that makes your collagen targeted by the supplements?
This is really interesting. Do you think some of the gains could be from an active de-load? I.e. the super compensation from all the hard hangboard training done prior to this program. Nice video...Sam✌️
if you have 1 year heavy training and then do 1 month light or no training at all results will be much bigger then before. Because when we climb or do other activities we constantly in non recovered state.
@@АндрейСарнавский-у9т He mentioned in one of the comments that he didn't change any of his other training and he believes he may have been pulling/training even harder during this time. He only added this routine twice per day.
Dave Macleod says he increased multiple grades in several disciplines after a half year of hangboarding 6 times a week. A frequency that's way higher than most traditional schedules. Thanks for making this video. I climb at a much more moderate grade (V7s outside) and have actually been experimenting with a more frequent no-hang protocol myself. I'd really be curious on how an intermediate boulderer responds to this high of a frequency!
It's really amazing to me that this worked so well, that's so exciting! I would have assumed the in vitro model translating rather poorly to real people's training but apparently the results are super significant. I love that Felix decided to give this a try and that it's paid off for both of you. Also, tendons are different from ligaments in some ways but considering the pulleys in the fingers are ligaments too, much of the pain resulting from finger strength training I would say can be classified as ligament pain. Plus it seems likely the in vitro results obtained in the study could be reproduced with in vitro tendon models. This is really cool to see and I might just give it a try to be part of your sample group :)
For those looking for the article, the one in the description only references the main article on optimizing the ligament stretch. here is the link www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267962/ TLDR: Optimized protocol 0.5HZ loading for 10 minutes. That means load 0.5 seconds followed by rest 0.5 seconds for 10 minutes. The amount of load (weight) is hard to translate but the graphs favor a lighter load vs heavier (remember you are training your tendons and not your muscles).
I'm about to start this program, it makes a lot of sense. I would add, for those who can't hang board, just climb. Your fingers and body are not strong enough yet. Let it work by it self for two years. For those complaining about the injury part, comparing to total hangs this can never give you an injury ( once again, you are supposed to climb for two years before starting finger training). And the most important thing, make sure you are having fun, trying things that are not in your level is not fun, it is stupid and there's no point on being a lunk: we are climbers, not body builders. Thanks for the video, let's see the results in one month.
Did a max hangs test session on sunday and tried your program today. I'm excited to see where it gets me! I will let you know in the comments. On the 20 mm Beastmaker 1000 edge 7 sec hang. Results:BW 80 [kg] Added 36,5 [kg] Total 116,5 [kg] % 146 BW
Against your advice, I did try this at home. I modified the schedule so it suits my level but basically relies heavily on the 'no hang' principle but with longer times on the hold (30sec on and 15sec off) which then require more weight remaining on the feet. I feel is a good start for lower end climbers in order to avoid going too hard on the board bust still allows strength gains. My Fingers feel super comfortable and reliable when climbing now. Now attacking 6c problems💪
We have to be VERY careful with this causality! You are doing a submaximal SHORT DURATION tendon stimulus repetitively - which is shown to increase tendon STIFFNESS (yes alongside some collagen synthesis from using the knowledge of refractory periods of the tenocytes) - so of course you are getting a huge strength application improvement from your flexors - at the risk of INCREASED injury. If you did the SAME program with 40seconds submaximal hang you would be improving tendon health and you would likely find your strength did not improve - as you reduce tendon stiffness and improve tendon health through mitigating stress shielding if you have injuries. Please understand the physiology as a complete picture. I'm not saying this wont help people improve performance phases - but to do it as their standard protocol will likely lead them to catastrophic connective tissue failure eventually.
@@bouldersuechtig Thanks! Appreciate the feedback. As time goes on we should have some more great info up there for climbers, also have some other climbing PTs and researchers lined up for some in depth talks around some of these subjects :) Stay tuned!
@@verticaljunkie3127 watching and outstanding video thus far! Are you aware of a ‘happy medium’ regimen between the two scenarios above- where you can capture optimal balance of performances gains and health?
Fascinating video, would be great to see when you fit these 2 hangboard routines, either side of a climbing session for example 8am first hangboard , 2pm to 4pm climbing session and 10pm second hangboard session. Climbing at 2pm allows 6 hours either side. Might be difficult to get those 6 hours either side for me personally, so I might omit one hangboard session on climbing days
Do I understand it correctly that you did 10 sets in total, where each set was 1 minute in total, but consisted of only 10 seconds actual work and 50 seconds rest? That would be 1:40 minutes (100 seconds) of actual work and 8:20 minutes of rest. Which is much less than the 10 minute maximum advised in the paper.
Hey so the paper that is being referenced is this one www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267962/ it shows that the best protocol is 0.5Hz for 10 minutes. which means 0.5seconds of load followed by 0.5 seconds of no-load for 10 minutes. They mean the whole exercise (loading AND rest) last 10 minutes, not only the loading.
@@sailinggaia3582 Thanks Tom, so Emil is not as far off as I first said, but doesn't that mean he's still quite a bit short of their recommendation? I.e., his load/rest ratio is 1:5, rather than 1:1
@@alexaverbuch1 thats right. and his frequency is also much lower than the study recommends. but at the end of the day its uncertain how similar in-vitro ligaments are to our fingers' ligaments. so as long as you do something somewhat similar it should help you eg: light load, high frequency, ~10 minutes, and 6h or rest.
Isnt this (although "only" recomending one session per day, as far as my memory goes) exactly what eric hörst is "prescribing"/talking about in several of his podcast episodes? Hanging with extremely light force/on bigger holds a little (ideally after having collagen, or something with leucin and prolin to support collagen synthesis) in order to strengthen the pulleys?
@@iliasp10 yes he does sell collagen but, he isn't really that radical in promoting his product either... You could argue that he is trying to sell stuff, but its not like: product -> ad with lack of scientific backup (like some big supplement companies are doing things), but rather: science-> trying to improve stuff-> collagen supplement I wouldnt suspect any egoistic/bad intent with erics statements... But you do have a point.
Almost exactly what my dad discussed in his podcasts in years past lol. Except the protocols he discussed (derrived from what he learned from Keith Baar's studies) are beneficial for the strengthening the tendon it self/repair. These workouts are not effective for training max finger strength as less than bodyweight hangs do nothing to increase the strength of your finger flexor muscles, shoulders etc...
@@iliasp10 he's a strong climber and I would believe he does a lot of training outside of this routine that I am sure helped improve his finger strength. He just wrote a bunch of remarks to comments that touches on some stuff!
Well I just started this today since gyms are still in lockdown here and tomorrow being a new month seemed like the perfect timing. Will be interesting to see how my fingers feel end of may.
After 104 days without bouldering due to the 'rona, I was able to climb in a closed gym all by myself. It was very depressing seeing how much progress I lost. Guys, keep training at home as good as you can.
My experience after the first lockdown was that is it far easier to REgain the progress than to get it the first time. The first time was terrible but the strength came back relatively fast.
Had corona during last spring. 7 weeks nothing but sofa and then many weeks just walking etc. Slowly started adding things during the summer and before the snow came I nailed my new best outdoors (7b). Just take it slowly and you can push through in the end! My indoor grade dropped to 6a so it was a long journey =)
@@Xeno87 lucky for u - i see our olympic lass in my local gym posting insta pics and vids where we are not allowed in - pretty annyoing to be fair ;/ bit of a rub in ya face
I just had my first finger injury so am really psyched to see if this can addapt to not just adding but regaining strength! Thx for the video awesome per usual!
This is presented in a way that looks very misleading. That kind of intensity can't produce those kind of gains in strenght, those "results" must be the product of other variables in your previous/current training/lifestyle imho
The result is from short duration loading utilising the refractory period of lysyloxidase and tenocytes 1. yes creates more collagen but more importantly 2. increases crosslink density creating increased tendon STIFFNESS. This is likely the primary driver for the strength gains. Tendons don't generate force - they transfer it to the bone. The only issue is that increased stiffness also puts people at increased risk of injury. So you will get some super crushing performance phase from this protocol - then you will end up with catastrophic connective or soft tissue failure eventually. They really don't understand tendon physiology but hey who cares its the internet!
@@verticaljunkie3127 Thank you! I was happily dong the program when I started wondering if it could have any negative impacts and started doing some research. I Highly suggest this talk: ua-cam.com/video/CgcR5J1dwcY/v-deo.html which was kind of an eye opener. Tl;dr Emil's protocol is a great way to induce tendon stiffness as you say rightly and therefore perceived strength gains, but with an increased risk of injury. It is important to keep slow, heavy load phases in your training routine to allow the tendons to keep their elasticity. I am still going to go through the program, but will cycle straight to a heavy load period.
@@fbimagesphoto Great understanding of the physiology. I ended up writing a reddit article on climbharder for it as well to help others digest it, as it can be difficult to wrap the brain around! It's not a bad program at all if stiffness for a performance phase is your goal and you are a well conditioned climber. Great addition to add in the slow heavy load phases for tendon health too if you are prone to issues.
@@verticaljunkie3127 Could you please help share the link to the article you wrote. I'll go check it out to get more understanding on the topic. Thank you very much!
It wont let me link reddit :( go to the Climbharder reddit - its called Clearing up Confusion on Emils New Twice a Day Hangboard Routine - can search for it or just scroll down a few posts.
This looks very promising! I am impressed and going to try this routine for the next 30 days and then update with the results! :) This has potential to be made into a real study and possible change the approach to finger training in climbing :o
@@johnmoore1867 yup, Im doing a variation of it as a test for if pulley injury rehab time improves compared to using the climbing doctor method. So far (12 days) The pulley healing rate feels like its at least 30% faster. Pleasantly surprised.
Very inspiring. I moved, no climbing, no gyms, gotta build my own wall now... but i need to train on somthing for the time being. This look perfect for me since all i have right now is a hang baord. Thank you so much for sharing this technique. I can't wait to get back in it (how many times have we said/heard that?).
I did a variation of this training and in 6-weeks I went from being able to full crimp the Beast Maker 2000 15mm edges going from 1 up to 9 seconds. I did a core exercise then half load hang boarding then repeat with different core exercises and hangs for about 20 minutes. I did this roughly 3-5 per week as well as climbing outdoors roughly x3 per week with the occasional bouldering session. Mainly my fingers felt healthier and became recruited much faster when climbing outdoors. Hanging full weight from the monos always felt ridiculous and to start with, even half load hanging on the small mono's felt uncomfortable but after 6-weeks I could almost fully load the deeper mono hold.
Hey Guys, Thank you for this interesting video. I had decided to try this approach, ie: twice 10 mn per day. To me specific, I did Four finger crimp - 3 sets, Three finger-drag in deep pocket - 3 sets, Middle two finger-pocket - one set, Middle two finger-crimp - one set and that is it, all of this at around 70%. Yes, I left out the Front two finger-crimp. I did all this twice/day for about 2.5 weeks. I did not measure my baseline finger strength at the start and what I can tell is that I do think that my finger strength improved over time. On the negative side, I pulled a few fibers of my left Trapezius. My left shoulder & neck were very tight and painful for several days until I stopped the inflammation with ibuprofen. I had to stop the experiment at least for now. I am thinking that I may have put too much weight on my fingers, hence the importance of letting some of the body weight being carried by the feet.
Great video very informative!! I need this for me Knees, thats where im having trouble as a very amateur indoor boulder of five sessions, but im hoooked, on climbing.
Did you do any warmup before the 10min. training? Did you feel fatigued during a climbing session, when you did the finger training in the morning? Your results are absolutely insane! This could be a new breakthrough in climbing training!!!
I have been doing this after 2 A2 pulley sprains. This loading of the tendon 2 times a day has been really beneficial for me my fingers feel much stronger and less painful. Furthermore my finger strength in general seems to of increased noticeably just in 2 weeks.
Hey everybody watching, I've made an update videon this topic where I asked a physio about how all this works:
ua-cam.com/video/0rAkLqk3UXM/v-deo.html
As well as a follow along video for anybody looking to try it themselves, with the new protocol presented in the video above:
ua-cam.com/video/3FNZdixeuZw/v-deo.html
thanks for the inspo :)
Hi Emil,
My searing question about the hangboard training is. Why does everbody train by only hanging?
Isn't it way more effective for the tendons/muscles to grow by opening and closing the fingers/hands under tension/while hanging.
Been doing this now for a couple weeks… noticeable strength gains aside, this is the first time in probably 6 years that my middle finger pulleys stopped hurting. I could cry from happiness.
Mate that is great to hear! I’m happy for you
yoooo I am about to try this, my middle finger A3 pulley been hurting for a year and it still has been gotten any better after a whole month off
@@normanng3863 I have problems with the exact same pulley on my middle finger too, nearly one year too now and rest has never helped. After the first climbing session it would hurt just as much as before. I'm confident that this program will truly help!
I’m a week in and about 20% longer on my max hangs and all joint pain has dissipated. Wtf?!
Physiotherapy must not be underestimated.
This is a fucking awesome video. Straight to the point, lots of information without artificially drawing it out over the 10min mark, no ads or sponsors. In today's times I can really appreciate these kinds of videos.
Hey folks I'm noticing a lot of curiosity from you all in the comment section, which is awesome!
I'm currently setting some bangers with Nikken and wont be able to respond to everything for a while, and I doubt I can respond to everything tbh. If you see a comment you're curious about, upvote it and a few of the ones with the highest upvotes I'll make sure to post an answer to later today/tomorrow!
Been struggling with finger injuries or fear of them for a while now and sort of hit a plateau. Your experiment is now my experiment as of 5 min ago:) My fingers feel nice and warm and the mild pump I get from gently loading the fingers individually feels very nice and different from what I'm used to! Thanks to you and your brother👊
Would be great to know if you were doing other hangboarding at the same time
Did you take callogen or geletin supplements before you did the protocol? It's mentioned in the paper you highlight and seems to be an important factor included in the study. Would be interesting to know if you did supplement or not.
@@paultanner102 I did a presentation on this a few years back ua-cam.com/video/uq01xj66bjM/v-deo.html
@@usefulcoach haha I thought I'd heard your voice somewhere before, I Listen to the podcast, big fan.
An interesting technique. I decided to check it out, and trained on it for exactly a month. Twice a day, morning and evening for 10 minutes. I used 2, 3, 4 fingers, never one. I worked 60-80% of my normal strength. In most cases, I stood on the ground. I only made clean hangs on four fingers. For the purity of the experiment, I did not change anything in nutrition and climbing.
Throughout the month, I felt like I was getting weaker and wasting my time.
At the end of the month, I repeated the measurements I made at the beginning.
Total, at the beginning,
Hanging on 10 mm plank - 18.05 s.
Hang on 20mm plank - 28.54 s.
In the end of the month
Hang on 10mm plank - 36.59 s.
Hang on 20 mm plank - 56.43 s.
That is, my results have improved by about two times.
It's funny, but sometimes, contrary to subjective feelings, science works.
It seems like you went for a higher intensity approach that would be closer to power endurance. Have you trained specifically on power endurance on small holds before?
ZAMMM!!! This gives me hope
@@gamotousername I have climbed small hold boulders in nature, but have never trained this ability in the gym.
In this case, I just decided to check the conclusions of the article for myself.
lol I cant only hang 3 seconds on 25mm at 100kg
Do you notice these improvements when climbing?
Super low risk high reward training scheme, i can see this hugely assisting in injury rehabilitation as well. Amazing video.
Will try it for rehab of my torn tendon in right middle finger. Been almost 3 months without any training.
I’ll give an update \m/
UPDATE:
First off, thank you all a ton for the input. Lots of critique and lots of love, exactly what I like to see!
Now it’s time for some further explanations and answers.
Q: What did the rest of your training and climbing schedule look like during this period? Did you add or remove anything from your usual weekly training with the addition of this new protocol?
A: I kept my training almost identical from December to January. No form of periodization and similar session-lengths. However, about 1 week after I started doing this my fingers started feeling a lot more durable, which consequently made me have climbing sessions where I pulled harder on small holds without my fingers opening up. I think a big part of the strength increase could’ve come from that. However, since there’s no good way to prove that that is why I got stronger, I left it out.
Q: did you warm up before each session?
A: Most of the sessions I did some very light finger warm ups, sometimes nothing at all. Warming up never hurts though.
Since the intensity was so low it felt harmless, felt like the same risk as when carrying a heavy grocery bag honestly.
Q: Two questions: How strongly did this increased finger strength affect your climbing ( do you think you can climb harder grades on crimps now )? and will you continue with this training after these 30 days (or at least do another 30 day block in a month or so)?
A: This increase in my finger strength was incredibly noticeable in my climbing. My fingers have never felt this solid on small holds before. I’ll continue doing the program until I have a good argument against it (since it takes very little time and I sacrifice nothing for it) :-)
Q: So in your benchmarking video 4 months ago you were able to hand the BM 20mm edge 1 handed for 7s. I was wondering what happened between then and the start of January and if your improvements could be more attributed to re-recuitment rather than actual improvements in strength?
A: I would’ve included this, but my strength there is quite incomparable to my current state. I’d been bulking and trying to get really strong, I weighed like 4kg more than I do now. It had both upsides and downsides to it! (it was also shot ~ 6 months ago)
The result I got in January better reflect how I most often perform on a hangboard. Re-recruitment could most definitely play a big part in it, but since I broke every record I’ve had before I’ll at least give some credit to the new program.
Q: Did you do any other hangboard training during this period?
A: I didn’t lift off the ground from a hangboard for a single second during this period (I did the 9c test before new years)
Q: Did you take any collagen or gelatin supplements?
A: The study states that this has a big impact on sinew health, but I was just curious about how the hangboard protocol would affect me so I made no dietary changes from december - february.
Q:Do I understand it correctly that you did 10 sets in total, where each set was 1 minute in total, but consisted of only 10 seconds actual work and 50 seconds rest?
That would be 1:40 minutes (100 seconds) of actual work and 8:20 minutes of rest.
Which is much less than the 10 minute maximum advised in the paper.
A: Good point! Potentially my gains would’ve been much greater if I did, for instance, 10sec on 10 sec off for 10 minutes. I was scared it could potentially be harmful and that it would be hard to find a good level of intensity, and therefore opted for a more careful method. I
As mentioned, there’s a sample size of 1 in this video, so it would be arrogant of me to claim that this protocol is THE protocol people should try. Hopefully this can spark some interesting new experiments, and maybe in 5 years time we’ll have a perfect formula.
To clarify, I hung for a total of 100 seconds in 10 minutes yes (with the exception of stretching my pinkies).
Also, when it comes to the % of weight I take off when doing the weighted hangs:
If you try the program, find your own limit and what works well for you. Ideally you should have a pulley system to see how much weight you take off, I just went with my gut feeling since I don’t have one. As somebody suggested I tried using a scale to see, and put in some approximations of how much weight I took off in the description.
Why do I think this program is good?
Basically it’s all about tendon health. If your tendons are good you can climb more which will get you stronger and better. This program is what I’m trying out in order to get my sinews, tendons and ligaments as solid as possible.
Lastly, I did this two times per day including days when I climbed (except one or two maybe). You can consider a climbing session to be the same as a hangboard session, if you view it from a “molecular response”-perspective. The only big rule to try and follow is to give your fingers 6 hours rest between each session where you engage your fingers (hangboard, no-hangs or climbing sessions for instance), and then try and do as many as your schedule will allow. If it’s once per day, that’s all right. Three times? That’s probably great too!
Rant over, I hope you enjoyed the vid and that I answered some of the many questions that would arise from this type of video!
TY! Maybe someone should put a quick description on how to adapt that to a lower level? I see people hyping, and wondering about 8mm edges + intensity percentages..
Thanks!!
really appreciate the extra input man! your drive to give the best info and results possible is a gift to us all. look forward to more updates!
Emil, big Island assis is waiting for you!!
Thanks alot for the update!
Emil is slowly transitioning into that Jimmy Webb look. Soon we'll be seeing them V16 sends
Such a fan of you, Emil!
I’m 3 days into this-no hangboard, just my doorframe so let’s see how it goes! Thanks for the inspiration.
Any update?
@@VAN_production.mp4 I lasted 3 weeks before slipping out of the habit. This reminded me--gonna get back on the horse now! In those 3 weeks, and since, I genuinely have seen huge improvement in all-round pulling strength. There's a doorframe in my house that I couldn't even hang for a millisecond from before, and I now can do 3/4 seconds!
This definitely worked for me. First off, been only climbing for 2 years and I’m 52 years of age. My baseline was a 9 second hang on a 15-20 mm on beastmaker 1000. Used a slightly different routine than Emil for the 30 days and got 23 seconds this morning. 156% increase and stronger on crimps when gym bouldering - thanks for the challenge Emil!
What was your routine if I may ask?
@@Sarah-rv4pv I still did the 10 minute sessions twice daily (unless I was climbing). One in the AM and one >6 hours later (all with low intensity assisted hangs). I started out on 4 finger pockets to warm up - 10 seconds on, 10 off and repeat up to 1 minute. Take 1 min rest and then begin again, using either the same or more difficult holds depending on how I felt. The hardest part is the discipline to make it happen consistently - but the results will happen.
I started doing this program the day after this video was posted. At the time I was nearing the end of rehabbing an middle finger A2 pulley rupture (probably 2-2.5 months out) and modified my grip accordingly. I’ve gone from hanging ~10 seconds off a 24mm edge pre-injury/intra-recovery to now hanging for 10 seconds off of a 10mm edge with ease!!!
I will say that over the past 1-1.5 months I’ve also done 2-3 extra sets to include either 3 finger crimps, minimal edge, or slopers. I also use the Tension Flash board for most hang sessions
This is the most exciting video I've ever seen. Thanks man - congrats on the continued progress!
Already got into my finger trainging plan for the next 3 months, let's see. Thank you so MUCH
Hey mate, i m wondering if you went thru with the 3 month training and what your results where after ?
Erik should try this. Love to see his results.
@WungusBill haha, does feel like the two outcomes
For anyone who's interested in squeezing some strength training in these 13 minute sessions:
Warm-up (feels like it's enough for me)
* 30 sec dead hang 4 finger deep pocket/jug
* 30 sec wrist circles (switch sides after 15 sec)
* 30 sec squat
* 30 sec finger squeeze/extend (keep tension actively)
* 30 sec jumping jacks
* 30 sec rest
Workout :
10 second hang, 50 seconds for each exercise
1. Four finger half crimp on chosen edge 3x hang (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
10x pull-ups after hang 1 (jug or 4 finger pocket)
10x push ups (wide grip) after hang 2
10x hanging leg (of knee) raises after hang 3
2. Three finger-drag in deep pocket 3x hang (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
10 sec rest
30 sec jump squats
10 sec rest
10x push up (close grip) after hang 2
6x body tucks after hang 3
3. Middle two finger-pocket drag 1x hang (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
10 sec rest
30 sec plank
10 sec rest
4. Front two finger-pocket drag 1x hang (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
2x 3 offset pull ups (switch sides after every rep)
5. Middle two finger half crimp 1x hang (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
10 sec rest
30 sec jumping lunges
10 sec rest
6. Front two finger-crimp 1x hang (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
5x negative pull up (explosive up, 4 seconds down)
Been doing a similar thing during lockdown and it definitely works! I use the beastmaker app (the 7a workout on the 1000 of which I’ve never even got past the first set) but I now use one foot on a 30mm foothold. Not only has my forearm endurance increased but every hold on the hangboard feels easier now. Prioritising volume over intensity is now the way forward for me, especially being quite injury prone!
Im 2 days into training like this, went to the gym a day later and my fingers are already WAY STRONGER! Maybe its a mental thing, but this training is awesome! I love how you train by keeping your feet on the ground; as a hangboard newbie I thought you had to hang with feet off the ground. This was tough and also felt like I was going to injure myself. The training in this video seems to be way better to start and has already provided results.
Awesome to hear mate!
Hope you keep feeling great and get good results. To this date I still do it regularly :-)
I'm sure you know it, but just be careful so you don't overdo it and injure yourself when climbing!
Update?
@@karatewithelian9014 it's been one of the 2 most beneficial training focus areas for me to climb stronger. I haven't followed it as intently as I should due to life stuff going on, but if your muscles in your arms/shoulders are strong for hard climbing, I feel like it still doesn't compare to finger strength, and this would be the technique to follow. It's much easier to stick with in my opinion then a full hanging board routine cause it isn't as brutal, produces results, and is not as injury prone as other hanging training.
@@taylorvice1610 cool! Were the results good? Also I dont have those boards so it's time to use the stairs😂
@@karatewithelian9014 Results were almost instantly good. You know those holds in the gym or outside that you can get a pad or 2 of your finger on that sometimes you have to desperately throw for, and it seems impossible to stick it? This training will make those types of moves possible. Also cranking down on a crimp to pull up to the next hold, this training will help with that. You could probably make your own board of sorts (2x4 board or thinner), but the grit from a hangboard helps strengthen your finger pads as well.
i mean... with those kind of results you just can't expect me to not try this at home :D
I know right?! 10 mins twice a day... is that ALL?!?!
@@timignatov7394 you started this?
@@KennethThys not yet, annoyingly having a bit of work done right on the doorframe where the hangboard was... as soons as its up next week (fingers crossed) ill start it
@@timignatov7394 I started yesterday with more active hang time. I have a total active hangtime of 360 seconds. I'm curious on how this is going to work out :) good luck with that doorframe.
@@KennethThys 360? how are you splitting that? ... Thanks but i cracked after your comment haha. Went and hung the hangboard up somewhere else so ive officially started today
This motivated me more than all the climbing videos I've ever seen combined, honestly.
Would be cool to setup a google sheet or something for people to share the results!
agreed!
Great idea! A google form would help structure the data better and can be viewed as a google sheet also!
Could probably get a lot of people involved. Would be really interesting to see
I'm in!
That would be so cool. We can also add additional information like max grade climbed outdoors so far, for how many years do you climb, etc...
Just finished the program and am still in shock with the results. Would be happy to post results to a Google sheet. Really cool experiment.
Just the psych I need for lockdown - thanks again Emil!!
Thanks homie!
I did a similar regimen for rehab during 3 monthe. Didnt climb at all during this time. Performed better when I got back. It works!
Hey Emil,
I don't know how people do it, but there is some "new" feature in youtube - you can split video's timeline and assign a title to each part of timeline. This way you won't need to put "video schedule" as a text in your videos. Trackmania player Riolu uses it already and it's really convenient.
Cheers mate, I added it now real quick, hope it works! Thanks for the input
@@EmilAbrahamsson Blev riktigt bra!
@@EmilAbrahamsson love it
Just finished 1 month of your hang board protocol. I have added 10kg to my max ½ crimp hang. I am quite new to crimping so mabye newbie gains. Anyway thanks for sharing your results it motivated me to do something during lockdown.
Two questions:
1. Warm up?
2. Did you do any other hangboard training during this period? Im thinking of incorparating it into my training week (2 sessions of max hangs and one session of repeaters)
I’m pretty sure it was the only training he did during this period
@@LongBoy.0 I am pretty sure he did this on top of normal training.
@@lebikSNB @Corey Munn I'm guessing this was more or less the only hangboarding but he continued his climbing training. Hopefully @emil will reply to this so we know 🙏
+1
I'm 2 months in. I definitely didn't increase in strength the way you did. My hangboard results shows that compared to this winter I'm between 5-10% weaker (even 2 months into your proposed protocole). I did hangboard during those 2 months (not in max strength though (doing the 10-5 protocol of the Andersons), did quite a lot of ARC too. But my fingers DO feel really great right now! No injury in sight. No crunchy fingers of elbow problems. I'm using pulleys to have exactly 70% of my BW. Thanks for sharig anyway! I'll keep doing this protocole since I'm convinced it helps my fingers stay healthy!
Wow, that results are crazy. I really want to learn to train better, especially my finger strength. And I hopped that you will publish more about your training. So after the last videos I have to say that your channel has become my favourite. Thank you so much for your time and effort! :-)
Thanks!
Very interesting, thanks for sharing! Two questions: How strongly did this increased finger strength affect your climbing ( do you think you can climb harder grades on crimps now )? and will you continue with this training after these 30 days (or at least do another 30 day block in a month or so)?
* commenting to subscribe to question *
@@frelli177 *me too*
@@frelli177 same
@@frelli177 yeah I'll follow suit
same same
Urgh.. I got an uncomfortable chill down my spine, when I saw the Calculus book in the intro.. Great video! I'm looking forward to seeing more people trying this, and the long term results.
When the video came out I could hang for 4.8 seconds on a 20 mil edge, after 2 weeks I could hang for 15 seconds and now after 1 month I can hang 5 seconds on the 10 mil edge
thats one handed right?
started doing this on my doorframe and fingers are feeling great! thanks man! My housemates think im crazy, but the results are there
Cheers mate, I’m excited to hear that!
Emil i need to thank you for that workout routine!
A few days after seeing your video I started to do it.
Only with a few differences:
1. My smallest edge is a 16mm one.
2. I could not even hold myself on a 20mm edge so I just pulled as hard as I could without immediate risk of slipping.
3. I never did a real routine on a Hangboard before.
I did not do it 2x every day but I tried to.
It has not even been 30 days and I can really see a Difference already.
I first noticed it when I almost kicked over the chair I'm always standing on when training. I did not slip off and I could pull the chair back into its position.
So a few days ago after the workout I tried to hold on to the 20mm edge and to my surprise I could hold onto it for around 8 seconds.
Totally blew my mind! So after another Minute of resting I tried the 16mm edge. And there I could hang for 3 seconds!!
This was completely impossible before!
This routine helped me a lot and I will continue to train that way. Maybe add some extra exercises as well.
Thank you very much!
I think this show again how you benefit from lower stress over time, adds up
its so nice for beginners to see that you dont have to hang with full weight to get results
What did the rest of your training and climbing schedule looking like during this period? Did you add or remove anything from your usual weekly training with the addition of this new protocol? Thanks
This is my number one question, aside from waiting 6+ hours what did his sessions and weekly schedule look like?
Reply is in the pinned comment!
@@LukeRockCimber he is waiting 6 hours between each session right? I mean morning 10 minutes session, wait 6 hours, climbing training, wait 6 hours and then evening 10 minute session.
I don’t find a clear answer to this. Or did I just miss something?
I do this for almost 2 months 5/7 days a week, my open hand strength becomes much stronger, i was pretty strong in full crinps +thumb overlay before, but not that strong in open hand crimps, that changed!!!
Thanks for making this video!!!!
Amazing results! Interested to hear what the rest of your training looked like during the month and how you fitted the hangboarding in around it. Thanks!!
I am also interested how did you structured your regular HB training around this.
Starting today! will see how it goes
I'm on day 60ish, and dam, this definitely helps...progressing a lot...and this is only my 6th month of climbing as a 37 year old... Thank you! 💪
Dude. That is so nuts. Hang boarding has got to be the highest return for effort training ever invented. You improved astronomically, in only a month. Wow
This seems like a good idea, but I'd imagine alot of the real strength gains come from having healthy fingers which feel good for a month. Being able to crimp hard with no tweaks for a month would help alot of peoples strength probably.
I agree
It's active recovery - allowing for earlier healthy fingers. And 65% load are good for gains in isometrics.
Also seems like an extreme version of greasing the groove which is very well known in calisthenics. Just do submaximal sets throughout the day. My understanding of how that works is that it refines the neuro pathways. (i. E. Instead of getting more muscles, most gains come from a very efficient neuron firing pattern. So your body pulls "smarter" to pull harder with the same amount of muscle)
The most important part in training is staying injury free. If this helps with that it’s already a huge improvement.
@@derekxiaoEvanescentBliss Was thinking similarly, it's something inbetween. Maybe it's enough volume for hypertrophy.
This is super inspiring. I haven't been training recently but have done a lot of hangboarding. For the last year or so I've just been climbing and doing calisthenics and stretching. I've been wanting to reboot some training and I am going to try this program for 30 days and will post my results in a reply to this comment, including baseline before and after. I'm an advanced but not expert climber (solid V6/5.12; max V8, 5.13-), 43 years old, climbing about 8 years.
Baselines taken today, all 4 finger fully open hand:
On deep 4 finger (32mm on my BM 2000):
+26kg = 22 seconds
+35kg = 10 seconds
+44kg = 4 seconds
On shallow 4 finger (14 mm on my 2000):
+16kg = 8 seconds
+26kg = 1 second
My weight doesn't vary much (65kg +/- a couple of kg).
So in your benchmarking video 4 months ago you were able to hand the BM 20mm edge 1 handed for 7s. I was wondering what happened between then and the start of January and if your improvements could be more attributed to re-recuitment rather than actual improvements in strength? Thanks
Maybe this protocol is effectively active recovery, which lead to a performance peak and let the finger recover for 30days, as he was obviously able to hang the Beastmaker 2000 4 months ago for 7s it could just mean he trained himself into overtraining and this light hanging left the fingers shining now
This is very importat info that should have been part of the video. (it wasn't right?)
@@lebikSNB yep I would say the same. Impressive nevertheless his body goes from not being able to hang the Beastmaker edge to 14s. But I guess climbing would be a bit too easy if we could just hang a bit around and have impressive gains. Translated to the extreme it would mean I can go to olympic sprinter by just walking to the train station twice a day right?
Yeah, my thoughts exactly. I bet this video will do well, though. And that will help Emil even more :-)
Reply is in the pinned comment!
I climb v6. I've altered your program slightly to suit my needs. In this article and in Keith Baar's collection of work, he highlights collagen as an integral part to this. I take 15g 30 minutes prior as he recommends Also, I added a single arm quarter pull up for shoulder integrity. I'm also quite a bit weaker than you guys! So 40% of my body weight is adequate. I weigh 109kg. I've been doing this for two weeks.
Mine is:
10on:20off half crimp 25mm x 4
35mm 1/2 crimp single arm quarter pull x 3 each side 10:20
Pinch blocks 4 sets 10:20
Total time= 7 minutes
I tried a set of both front three and back three the first week and my forearms actually hurt so I took that out and replaced it with the pinch blocks.
So far, I'm definitely climbing stronger and have 0 finger pain. I'm missing a few pulleys so that's a nice change.
did you warm up before each session?
Insane progress!!!
Also, was this the only hangboarding you did during this month ?
I want to know this too!
* commenting to subscribe to question *
@@frelli177 *me too, again*
@@frelli177 me too
Such a helpful video. Informative and some fun moments (I saw that zoom-in on the beaver/squirrel with blue sunglasses). You even provided exercises that we can all easily do at home to strengthen our fingers while we may not be able to climb. Many thanks to Felix and you!
watching this 9 months later I want part 2!
I'm definitely going to try this for numerous reasons but I also want to say that even if it doesn't do anything at all for me it's just crazy to see you getting such great results and for your sake I'm glad you thought it was worth a try
Congrats dude !
I'd love to see Dave Macleod's thoughts on this - any way to get him to take a look?
Indeed, that would be interesting. Dave was about doing something similar, sounded like greasing the groove hangboarding at his home.
I think Eric Horst has a hangboard routine for tendon health, and although that doesn't involve "no hangs", it involves just body weight on a big edge every day. That's the closest I've heard to this program I guess.
Yes would be intresting
lattice too
@@pooyahat Bechtels ladders should be similar intensity, too.
This is amazing, I'm going to start today and see how I go. No risk compared to what I'm already doing, everything to gain.
I would love to see more climbing focused research like you see in powerlifting and bodybuilding with folks like Mike Israetal, Brad Schoenfeld, Eric Helms, et al....
There is some, but climbing is a complex sport - strength etc is only a (necessary) fraction for success, eg movement skills, and the mental aspect. Check out Bobat's 9c test - JP has fb 8c+ strength and does a 6c route outdoors.
I started to hang (with my feet on the ground) on the smallest edge I have on my ocun fingerboard, which I was not able to hold before for more than a few seconds. After about three weeks practising very irregularly this kind of hangs, for no more than 10" a day I started seeing significant gains. I started working my moonboard 2016 about two months ago and had to spend a lot of time to top a single benchmark problem. After these three weeks I gave it a good session, where I flashed 5 problems and sent projects, I gave so many tries before. So for me. Yes
Those training results are pretty crazy, but have you noticed a difference when it comes to actually climbing on crimps?
I've been doing this most days excluding days I climb and I'm impressed with how much stronger I am in my fingers. I was hanging around the 6B/C sports grade for a long time and now I'm much more comfortable on 7a/b garde climbs and even harder boulders which I didn't used to like climbing as much. Flashed a 7a today too! Thanks for the video
Thats awesome to hear, I’m happy it helped you!
Hey Emil, thanks for that great routine. I'm still a beginner (1,5 years climbing), so I reduced it to one session per day for the last 30 days. My results are crazy, i did not expect that at all. My half crimp time on 15mm doubled and because of a soft injury a few months back I was not able to even hang 3 finger open. Today I did it without any pain for 20 seconds on a bigger edge.
I did not climb before that 30 days because of local lockdown in Germany. So I was absolutly fresh at the beginning of the routine. I saw Hoopers video and I really respect his arguments but in my case it seems like I actually got stronger. I will have some days off now and start another 30 days.
Thanks a lot for that great routine and all of your other videos. You're a great guy, like Erik and the others. Have a good time and stay healthy.
I’ve been doing this for about 4 months and have experienced great results! Thanks for this Emil!
I would love to know your routine for someone who’s been hanging for a while.. as I’ve basically just been doing this same routine, but at 100% effort all the time
That's fantastic to hear!
So what I can say is that my brother has kept doing it consistently for about 1.5 years now, and I've done it in a periodised form to play around.
My only conclusion for myself is that doing it periodised only makes the effects more apparent for me (because every time I re-start it my fingers feel great), but it doesn't really improve anything for me. I'll probably start doing it continuously soon and just never stop. I've kept the same load throughout, and I believe my brother has done the same!
Considering you already boulder really hard and have previous videos of you training for v15, do you not think this is just a case of you learning to apply the strength you already have to a fingerboard, rather than making new gains?
Humble v9 boulderer here. I cannot for the life of me hang on the 20mm lattice rung one handed without having a 12kg assistance from a pulley. I am starting the program today, I will let you know if that makes any difference at all for us mere mortals.
Plus maybe a long period of active deload which has given the accumulative micro tears in the flexors/pulleys time to consolidate years of hard training. All resulting in being able realise his actual potential on the fb (as you said above)?
@@fbimagesphoto Yeah im around the same level. Let me know how you get on with it man
@@josephearley9530 yeah, it's definitely interesting. I'm not not convinced that it's all purely new gains. Would be pretty exciting stuff if it was all legit!
@@1989SeanSmith So I was happily dong the program when I started wondering if it could have any negative impacts and started doing some research. I Highly suggest this talk: ua-cam.com/video/CgcR5J1dwcY/v-deo.html which was kind of an eye opener. Tl;dr Emil's protocol is a great way to induce tendon stiffness and therefore perceived strength gains, but with an increased risk of injury. It is important to keep slow, heavy loads in your training routine to allow the tendons to keep their elasticity. I am still going to go through the program, but will cycle straight to a heavy load period.
Love this style of video!
As i'm from a science background i'm loving the actual reference to an actual journal article to optimize training.
I might try this myself!!
Increase the sample size haha
One thing you don't really mention at all that and is mentioned in the paper is whether you took callogen or geletin supplements before the protocols. The study seems to emphasize this heavily. It points out that taking 15g before exercise has shown to almost double the callogen synthesis that took place and could be a factor in helping your tendons gain strength. I would be very curious to know if you did this to complement the training stimulus protocol?
Can u link to reliable studies about this? And tell me which is preferred (callogen or gelein)? Seems interesting
What kind of collagen supplements do you take? I think a lot of collagen supplements are actually just snake water humbug, cause they claim to target the building of the collagen in your ligaments/sinews etc.. but really all it does is getting metabolized just like any other fat/protein when ingested. Or do some supplements have something in them that makes your collagen targeted by the supplements?
You are spreading hope amongst us believers. Thx! :)
This is really interesting. Do you think some of the gains could be from an active de-load? I.e. the super compensation from all the hard hangboard training done prior to this program. Nice video...Sam✌️
Good question!
if you have 1 year heavy training and then do 1 month light or no training at all results will be much bigger then before. Because when we climb or do other activities we constantly in non recovered state.
@@АндрейСарнавский-у9т He mentioned in one of the comments that he didn't change any of his other training and he believes he may have been pulling/training even harder during this time. He only added this routine twice per day.
Dave Macleod says he increased multiple grades in several disciplines after a half year of hangboarding 6 times a week. A frequency that's way higher than most traditional schedules. Thanks for making this video. I climb at a much more moderate grade (V7s outside) and have actually been experimenting with a more frequent no-hang protocol myself. I'd really be curious on how an intermediate boulderer responds to this high of a frequency!
It's really amazing to me that this worked so well, that's so exciting! I would have assumed the in vitro model translating rather poorly to real people's training but apparently the results are super significant. I love that Felix decided to give this a try and that it's paid off for both of you.
Also, tendons are different from ligaments in some ways but considering the pulleys in the fingers are ligaments too, much of the pain resulting from finger strength training I would say can be classified as ligament pain. Plus it seems likely the in vitro results obtained in the study could be reproduced with in vitro tendon models.
This is really cool to see and I might just give it a try to be part of your sample group :)
For those looking for the article, the one in the description only references the main article on optimizing the ligament stretch.
here is the link www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267962/
TLDR:
Optimized protocol 0.5HZ loading for 10 minutes.
That means load 0.5 seconds followed by rest 0.5 seconds for 10 minutes.
The amount of load (weight) is hard to translate but the graphs favor a lighter load vs heavier (remember you are training your tendons and not your muscles).
Yeah, everyone's trying this at home. I'm starting today.
Wow I've read this article before but I always thought of using it as a way to heal injuries, not to gain strength... this is crazy. I gotta try it!
Holy crap those results! Did you guys just revolutionize finger training and how we train for climbing? I'm honestly shocked.
Really great video Sire. Especially liked the way you used sound in the beginning.
4:21 That cup's angle is making me worried. Though that might just be perspective.
Me too
I'm about to start this program, it makes a lot of sense. I would add, for those who can't hang board, just climb. Your fingers and body are not strong enough yet. Let it work by it self for two years. For those complaining about the injury part, comparing to total hangs this can never give you an injury ( once again, you are supposed to climb for two years before starting finger training). And the most important thing, make sure you are having fun, trying things that are not in your level is not fun, it is stupid and there's no point on being a lunk: we are climbers, not body builders. Thanks for the video, let's see the results in one month.
Did you notice any improvement in your climbing?
actually awesome, this shows how human body has an incredible possibility to evolve.
Did a max hangs test session on sunday and tried your program today. I'm excited to see where it gets me! I will let you know in the comments. On the 20 mm Beastmaker 1000 edge 7 sec hang. Results:BW 80 [kg] Added 36,5 [kg] Total 116,5 [kg] % 146 BW
Against your advice, I did try this at home. I modified the schedule so it suits my level but basically relies heavily on the 'no hang' principle but with longer times on the hold (30sec on and 15sec off) which then require more weight remaining on the feet. I feel is a good start for lower end climbers in order to avoid going too hard on the board bust still allows strength gains. My Fingers feel super comfortable and reliable when climbing now. Now attacking 6c problems💪
I am so glad I found this video. Thank you!
We have to be VERY careful with this causality! You are doing a submaximal SHORT DURATION tendon stimulus repetitively - which is shown to increase tendon STIFFNESS (yes alongside some collagen synthesis from using the knowledge of refractory periods of the tenocytes) - so of course you are getting a huge strength application improvement from your flexors - at the risk of INCREASED injury. If you did the SAME program with 40seconds submaximal hang you would be improving tendon health and you would likely find your strength did not improve - as you reduce tendon stiffness and improve tendon health through mitigating stress shielding if you have injuries. Please understand the physiology as a complete picture. I'm not saying this wont help people improve performance phases - but to do it as their standard protocol will likely lead them to catastrophic connective tissue failure eventually.
Do you have some reference, it sounds interesting?
Bump
@@verticaljunkie3127 thank you, I will watch this!
@@bouldersuechtig Thanks! Appreciate the feedback. As time goes on we should have some more great info up there for climbers, also have some other climbing PTs and researchers lined up for some in depth talks around some of these subjects :) Stay tuned!
@@verticaljunkie3127 watching and outstanding video thus far! Are you aware of a ‘happy medium’ regimen between the two scenarios above- where you can capture optimal balance of performances gains and health?
Fascinating video, would be great to see when you fit these 2 hangboard routines, either side of a climbing session for example
8am first hangboard , 2pm to 4pm climbing session and 10pm second hangboard session. Climbing at 2pm allows 6 hours either side. Might be difficult to get those 6 hours either side for me personally, so I might omit one hangboard session on climbing days
Do I understand it correctly that you did 10 sets in total, where each set was 1 minute in total, but consisted of only 10 seconds actual work and 50 seconds rest?
That would be 1:40 minutes (100 seconds) of actual work and 8:20 minutes of rest.
Which is much less than the 10 minute maximum advised in the paper.
Hey so the paper that is being referenced is this one www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267962/
it shows that the best protocol is 0.5Hz for 10 minutes. which means 0.5seconds of load followed by 0.5 seconds of no-load for 10 minutes.
They mean the whole exercise (loading AND rest) last 10 minutes, not only the loading.
@@sailinggaia3582 Thanks Tom, so Emil is not as far off as I first said, but doesn't that mean he's still quite a bit short of their recommendation?
I.e., his load/rest ratio is 1:5, rather than 1:1
@@alexaverbuch1 thats right. and his frequency is also much lower than the study recommends.
but at the end of the day its uncertain how similar in-vitro ligaments are to our fingers' ligaments. so as long as you do something somewhat similar it should help you eg:
light load, high frequency, ~10 minutes, and 6h or rest.
@@sailinggaia3582 0.5hz is 2 seconds, i.e. half a cycle per second.
@@bartbizon Oops ! Sorry I failed physics 😭
I really like the cinematography of some of your climbing/training shots
Isnt this (although "only" recomending one session per day, as far as my memory goes) exactly what eric hörst is "prescribing"/talking about in several of his podcast episodes? Hanging with extremely light force/on bigger holds a little (ideally after having collagen, or something with leucin and prolin to support collagen synthesis) in order to strengthen the pulleys?
Except they're not trying to sell a product^^
@@iliasp10 yes he does sell collagen but, he isn't really that radical in promoting his product either...
You could argue that he is trying to sell stuff, but its not like: product -> ad with lack of scientific backup (like some big supplement companies are doing things), but rather: science-> trying to improve stuff-> collagen supplement
I wouldnt suspect any egoistic/bad intent with erics statements...
But you do have a point.
Almost exactly what my dad discussed in his podcasts in years past lol. Except the protocols he discussed (derrived from what he learned from Keith Baar's studies) are beneficial for the strengthening the tendon it self/repair. These workouts are not effective for training max finger strength as less than bodyweight hangs do nothing to increase the strength of your finger flexor muscles, shoulders etc...
@@camhorst what about Emil's results then?
@@iliasp10 he's a strong climber and I would believe he does a lot of training outside of this routine that I am sure helped improve his finger strength. He just wrote a bunch of remarks to comments that touches on some stuff!
Well I just started this today since gyms are still in lockdown here and tomorrow being a new month seemed like the perfect timing. Will be interesting to see how my fingers feel end of may.
Great to hear! Hope it works well for you :-)
After 104 days without bouldering due to the 'rona, I was able to climb in a closed gym all by myself. It was very depressing seeing how much progress I lost. Guys, keep training at home as good as you can.
My experience after the first lockdown was that is it far easier to REgain the progress than to get it the first time. The first time was terrible but the strength came back relatively fast.
how did one get into a closed gym ? :o
@@shinraninja It really helps if you are friends with professional climbers who are still allowed to climb.
Had corona during last spring. 7 weeks nothing but sofa and then many weeks just walking etc. Slowly started adding things during the summer and before the snow came I nailed my new best outdoors (7b). Just take it slowly and you can push through in the end! My indoor grade dropped to 6a so it was a long journey =)
@@Xeno87 lucky for u - i see our olympic lass in my local gym posting insta pics and vids where we are not allowed in - pretty annyoing to be fair ;/ bit of a rub in ya face
Really good video !
And I really value the fact that this training is built on hard science.
Keep up the good work :)
Instructions unclear all my pulleys ruptured
Dang it..
instructions unclear???? wow
I just had my first finger injury so am really psyched to see if this can addapt to not just adding but regaining strength! Thx for the video awesome per usual!
This is presented in a way that looks very misleading. That kind of intensity can't produce those kind of gains in strenght, those "results" must be the product of other variables in your previous/current training/lifestyle imho
The result is from short duration loading utilising the refractory period of lysyloxidase and tenocytes 1. yes creates more collagen but more importantly 2. increases crosslink density creating increased tendon STIFFNESS. This is likely the primary driver for the strength gains. Tendons don't generate force - they transfer it to the bone. The only issue is that increased stiffness also puts people at increased risk of injury. So you will get some super crushing performance phase from this protocol - then you will end up with catastrophic connective or soft tissue failure eventually. They really don't understand tendon physiology but hey who cares its the internet!
@@verticaljunkie3127 Thank you! I was happily dong the program when I started wondering if it could have any negative impacts and started doing some research. I Highly suggest this talk: ua-cam.com/video/CgcR5J1dwcY/v-deo.html which was kind of an eye opener. Tl;dr Emil's protocol is a great way to induce tendon stiffness as you say rightly and therefore perceived strength gains, but with an increased risk of injury. It is important to keep slow, heavy load phases in your training routine to allow the tendons to keep their elasticity. I am still going to go through the program, but will cycle straight to a heavy load period.
@@fbimagesphoto Great understanding of the physiology. I ended up writing a reddit article on climbharder for it as well to help others digest it, as it can be difficult to wrap the brain around! It's not a bad program at all if stiffness for a performance phase is your goal and you are a well conditioned climber. Great addition to add in the slow heavy load phases for tendon health too if you are prone to issues.
@@verticaljunkie3127 Could you please help share the link to the article you wrote. I'll go check it out to get more understanding on the topic. Thank you very much!
It wont let me link reddit :( go to the Climbharder reddit - its called Clearing up Confusion on Emils New Twice a Day Hangboard Routine - can search for it or just scroll down a few posts.
This looks very promising! I am impressed and going to try this routine for the next 30 days and then update with the results! :) This has potential to be made into a real study and possible change the approach to finger training in climbing :o
“Don’t try this at home “.... literally everyone who watches this will do it
lmao I've already started
Already started as well
@@johnmoore1867 yup, Im doing a variation of it as a test for if pulley injury rehab time improves compared to using the climbing doctor method. So far (12 days) The pulley healing rate feels like its at least 30% faster. Pleasantly surprised.
Thank you very much! Insane knowledge in this video. All the best...
Very inspiring. I moved, no climbing, no gyms, gotta build my own wall now... but i need to train on somthing for the time being. This look perfect for me since all i have right now is a hang baord. Thank you so much for sharing this technique. I can't wait to get back in it (how many times have we said/heard that?).
I did a variation of this training and in 6-weeks I went from being able to full crimp the Beast Maker 2000 15mm edges going from 1 up to 9 seconds. I did a core exercise then half load hang boarding then repeat with different core exercises and hangs for about 20 minutes. I did this roughly 3-5 per week as well as climbing outdoors roughly x3 per week with the occasional bouldering session. Mainly my fingers felt healthier and became recruited much faster when climbing outdoors. Hanging full weight from the monos always felt ridiculous and to start with, even half load hanging on the small mono's felt uncomfortable but after 6-weeks I could almost fully load the deeper mono hold.
This was insightful and incredibly tempting to try. Thanks for doing this video!
Hey Guys,
Thank you for this interesting video.
I had decided to try this approach, ie: twice 10 mn per day.
To me specific, I did Four finger crimp - 3 sets, Three finger-drag in deep pocket - 3 sets, Middle two finger-pocket - one set, Middle two finger-crimp - one set and that is it, all of this at around 70%. Yes, I left out the Front two finger-crimp.
I did all this twice/day for about 2.5 weeks.
I did not measure my baseline finger strength at the start and what I can tell is that I do think that my finger strength improved over time.
On the negative side, I pulled a few fibers of my left Trapezius. My left shoulder & neck were very tight and painful for several days until I stopped the inflammation with ibuprofen. I had to stop the experiment at least for now.
I am thinking that I may have put too much weight on my fingers, hence the importance of letting some of the body weight being carried by the feet.
Great video and appreciate you sharing your results.
Very well thought out and well produced thanks.
Great video very informative!!
I need this for me Knees, thats where im having trouble as a very amateur indoor boulder of five sessions, but im hoooked, on climbing.
That's legit, dude! Good work!
Did you do any warmup before the 10min. training? Did you feel fatigued during a climbing session, when you did the finger training in the morning?
Your results are absolutely insane! This could be a new breakthrough in climbing training!!!
I have been doing this after 2 A2 pulley sprains. This loading of the tendon 2 times a day has been really beneficial for me my fingers feel much stronger and less painful. Furthermore my finger strength in general seems to of increased noticeably just in 2 weeks.
That's awesome to hear!! Keep me posted on the progress :)