Hello friends, I hope you are safe and strong! I miss you too ;) Note: I made a video for my lovely Patreon Supporters too so, please do watch that video too! www.patreon.com/rockentry
I saw this video then realized that i have been doing every single thing you mentioned wrong. Luckily i haven't been injured so far, but starting now i'm applying all of your tips. Thank you so much for the helpful video
Thanks for all the tips! I started climbing one and a half year ago and yesterday I climbed my first 7a+ & 7B boulder. couldn't have done it whitout your tips on technique. Thanks again and keep up the good work on the vids
As for swinging, I like to slowly load the fingers. This means that before my feet come off the ground, they'll drag on my toes until I'm directly under the board. And then at that point I take my toes off the ground.
gahhh this makes me miss hangboarding with u :-((( can’t wait to get back outside again. def need to get back on journaling my hangboard workouts; it’s so easy to lose track of which workouts you did!
I have a hangboard but I think I have been using it wrong. It is hanging in my garage so it is doing it's job as a "hang" board but apparently I am also supposed to hang on it. I will try that.
About to install my hangboard. Need some advice: What space would you recommend above the hangboard? For doing pullups. Like how much space above the jugs to the ceiling is recommended
Excellent video for us beginners. Thanks. I can see why slipping is such a bad idea. The sudden release of force, and also hanging to the point that the tissues can't support your weight, definitely an injury zone. You didn't mention recovery time. I've been wondering how long to leave between sessions. My forearms ache when I go climbing but by the end of the session they feel ok. Then a few days later they are aching at the next session and by the end they are ok. Is this normal? Do forearms ache until they are warmed up?
😂 I totally did most of these mistakes the other day when i decided to try out the hangboard....going back today with a little knowledge will be helpful, thanks!
Firstly, a huge thanks for your great content; I’ve been climbing for 14months now and gained immensely from you insights. Got the same hangboard just before UK lock down and have found the accompanying app really useful - any reason you didn’t or stopped using it?
Great hangboard! I've never used the app. I'm already used to the interval app I use. It just goes very well with my bodyweight training and HIITS. If the app works for you that is great tho! Which ever makes your workout go as smooth as possible. Keep at it!
Hi!! first of all congratulations for your channel, it's amazing. I have one question about the mounting board for your hangboard. Where can I find something like this? did you built it by your own? my wall is pladur and I can`t install my hangboard directly on it. Thx
Hey, I'm a fairly new climber (3 months b4 quarantine) and I have no clue what hangboard to get. Any help?!?! I want something with good holds I can also do pull ups on. I know as a new climber I shouldn't go too hard on the hangboard but there's not much else to do during quarantine.
The one I'm using BeastMaker 1000 is great! you get variety of holds from large to small and feels great on your skin. Good jug holds on top corners for pull-ups and frenchies like you see in the start of this video.
The hangboard that he has is the Beastmaker 1000. It is more intermediate, but has a small jug that is good for pull ups. I own a beastmaker 2000 which I would not recommend for a beginner, as it is way too difficult. If you are desperate for a hangboard, I'd recommend the Beastmaker 1000 because the wood is nice on your hands, competitive pricing, variety of holds, and has some larger edges. However, you don't really need a hangboard so soon because they are really expensive and you are prone to injure since you are so new. Honestly, I'd save the money and hang from a beam of some sort (balcony, goal net, stairs), and just hang for a long amount of time to build up endurance. Before I got a hangboard, I hung from a 2x4 beam for over a minute at a time to build endurance. The small holds are good for building max strength, but you are prone to injury, and in all honesty, you probably aren't encountering super tiny edges on climbs just yet.
Also check out some wrist curl workouts. Other climbers have posted videos of routines you can do. It'll build forearm strength in a much more controlled manner so you won't hurt yourself. It's alright if you don't have weights. You can use resistance bands or jugs/bottles of water in a bag. If you're still hellbent on a hangboard, you can also check out Metolius for more budget options. I've heard from friends a lot of boards are back ordered though.
Really good video BRO! AND I DEFINITELY AGREE ABOUT MAKING NOTES ABOUT EACH TRAINING CAUSE FOR EXAMPLE I AFTER A WEEK OR MBY TWO TOTALLY FORGET ABOUT HOW MANY HANGS AND TIME DID I HOLD. NICE TIPPS REALLY
@@rockentry My excuses ended last week. Did my first true session with Beastmaker 2000. Now I'm 4 for 5 of doing it right, to include logbook. The one I know is an easy fix is not going to failure where my fingers slip off - use my feet before exhaustion. Thanks for this video.
I know this is an old video but is it ok to count in your head if you are doing set times? Like I usually count 15 seconds and do three sets of 15 seconds and sometimes I do 20 seconds if I am feeling good. I feel like I make sure I count slow but maybe not 😂
Train scapula pulls, you need to develop the scapula to ensure healthy shoulders. They are the hips of the upper body afterall :) after 2 weeks you shouldn't struggle with this issue
@@NJRangerGeorge face pulls, using resistance bands or rings/TRX handles. This will supplement the scapula pulls really well and ensure that your shoulders and upper back muscles are prepared to take the strain of bouldering. They will also really work wonders on your day to day posture. I would also recommend spending a good amount of time warming up and doing daily yoga. Just follow a 10/20min yoga routine on UA-cam and you will really build some incredible strength that will carry directly over to your climbing and also your daily life. You have to remember you have your body for the rest of your life so longevity is key, Yoga quite literally builds strength, teaches you the importance of breath control and prolongs the tendons/ligaments. You will naturally progress this to doing hand stands, planche pushups...etc (down the line) Do Yoga daily and you will adapt quickly,as with any habit/skill. Consistency is key, you won't regret it looking back in a month's time feeling healthier and learning through your own experiences!
Start with climbing more and wait for a good year until you first use the hangboard, worked for me, haven’t had any issues with hangboarding, though I am just doing it once to twice a week with one or better two rest days in between. Some light bouldering and 1 time of hard climbing in the week.
Depends what you want to train, the presets are more suited to route climbers than boulders so have a greater focus on endurance than strength. Max strength training where you're holding a certain edge size at a certain weight for about 10 seconds (with this feeling like your max) would be more suited to improved finger strength for bouldering. That said the presets would be less stressful on your tendons if you're new to hangboarding due to the lower intensity of these workouts and have the benefit of conditioning you for longer climbing sessions.
🐲 Below the hangboard I prefere to have free space. So I can pull up nicely. I prefere to pull up a bit during hanging. So I use my core and shoulders better. Okay, with weight, you are right. .
Additional rules of hangboarding too early and too frequently with a disagreement about what you said about not progressing. One of the issues is hangboarding works, especially to supplement minimal or nonexistent climbing, near regardless of training protocols and such. This said, there is a tremendous value in optimized training to assure the intensity is correct for each and every hang, in particular as we transition back to rock and resin with greatly increased intensity without obvious fatigue and early adaptations to the training stimulus. If folks are not engaged, controlled, consistent, etc., they will not progress as fast, but now there comes the added concern of injury causing them to regress.
Question: I'm not a strong climber like the hardest problem I've ever done was maybe v6 but I can hang on every hold of my hang board for 10 seconds pretty easy. What should I do to make gains in my fingers?
Nice video. I was skeptic whether to hang-board or not when I’ve only been climbing only 7 months. I made my own hangboard actually, Check it out on my channel. Much appreciated x
Your fingers will be doing all the work regardless of how your body is, the finger is the only thing supporting the rest of your body no matter what you do
If you watched this video don't believe that you or anyone can add 65 lbs to your max half crimp strength in 2 months, as that would be a recipe for injury and is likely impossible. Another great video but promoting that this guy progressed from 0 to 65 lbs half crimp strength during 2 months of quarantine is misleading. I straight up don't believe that he couldn't half crimp with a single pound of weight even though he has climbed V10, no way. I might believe that he never tested himself, but from what I have heard that kind of half crimp strength is going to take much longer than progressing from 0 to 65 lbs pull-up strength since tendons are much slower to strengthen than muscles. I think adding 65 lbs to one's max pull-up strength is something that might take at least a 1/2 year (assuming 2.5 lb progression per week), meaning adding 65 lbs to half crimp strength is something that takes years, not months. I'm no expert but my source for this info is Eric Horst, likely the most famous and well respected climbing coach alive right now.
Dude... We all have our strengths and weaknesses. I've started training the Open/Half also known as the chisel crimp thanks to my friend Pro climber Paul Robinson Prior to this training/quarantine. and has helped me tremendously in my climbing BUT my half crimp has been my weakness and you can tell once I get on a climb that focused more on half crimp unlike the V10 i was working on all moves work with my strength, I couldn't sent it. I'm very comfortable with slopers too... I've been climbing for 4 years, dude it is all added experience and past training. Also, I have been training NOT Alone but with a group of 3 to 5 climbers video calls 4 to 6 times a week! sharing notes and a timer we hang and rest at the same time. We do this for motivation AND they got different results because.. we. are. all. different. We are still till this DAY nonstop hard work training. When I tell you I went from bodyweight Halfcrimp to 65lb half crimp on medium edge hold, I don't have to lie. why do I have to LIE? I'm documenting my journey in all these videos. Jesus man... seriously, everyone is different some take a year to climb a V10 some take 10 years it's all different for everyone and same goes when it comes to training. If you don't believe me then so be it. Trust me... I'm not the only one that knows about my results I have friends that are coaches and Double-digit climbers helping me. Do they think I'm lying? nope.
@@rockentry I agree that people respond differently to training, just doing what I think is best trying to keep people (especially newer climbers) safe out there. I know that a lot of workout progressions start at bodyweight and then slowly add weight, and I have no reason to believe you didn't do that from 0 to 65 lbs. My hypothesis is that you you were already stronger than only being able to hang at bodyweight. Perhaps I misinterpreted what you meant, and you were referring to starting at bodyweight which was easy for you and then going up to 65 lbs. I never said you were lying, just figured it was either a typo or that you were capable of hanging with some weight on when lockdown started 2 months ago. Is that right? Anyway I didn't mean to seem like I was attacking you, I just thought it was important to warn people about injury risk associated with trying to go for such a bold progression. Keep it up and good luck. 💪👍
U should give a based argument on the things u shouldn’t do ( u only say don’t do that and laugh without argument or scientific base) Cool video though
i agree with everything except for the last one, you don't have to track anything to get gains. when you go to a gym you don't typically track your workouts, you go in and know what you feel you need to train to get those gains that day. your body tells you what is feeling weakest, what needs the most work, how hard or how easy you have to go. a book telling you what you did can be helpful to track the progress, but ultimately it won't tell you what you have to do, just shows you what you did
I couldn't disagree more. Tracking your workout is the only way to figure out whether you are making any progress. The problem you are describing (adapting the load of the workout depending on your current form), I think, has been “solved“: check out resources on your preferred search engine for “rate of perceived exertion“ or “RPE“. Here's a link I found in my bookmarks (no affiliation, no claims or liability whatsoever): propanefitness.com/rpe-method-implement-rpes-training-bryce-lewis-guest-article/
Yeah, If not tracking your progress helps you then great! It isn’t for everyone. It’s definitely helped me progress dramatically and helps me keep focused knowing which weight, set, reps, handholds I’m doing and helps me see different kind of patterns, which days I’ve been feeling week or strong and why? Also, I have bad memory so it definitely helps me, specially when I’m also doing bodyweight training. For me, Knowing what I did prior helps me know what’s my next steps.
@@rockentry i get that, planning will help some people, all i meant was that it isn't a necessity to progress. if helps that's great. I personally found it harder to record it unless i went with either as little data as possible, or as much as possible. anything in between just seemed to confuse me. great video though!
Echoing Sebastian, I couldn't disagree more. I don't want to just restate what he said, though I agree with his points. Additionally, "listening to your body" is the biggest scam in the training world. Of course, being conscious of your body and the condition it's in is important, especially for spotting oncoming injuries, but your perception =/= reality when it comes to "what needs the most work, how hard or easy you have to go" I'd also disagree that "you" don't typically track your workouts. "You" being the average person, gets terrible gains, hurts their body, and ultimately does not progress reliably. Without documenting and tracking, you're not ensuring overload and you're randomizing your progression. If you prefer to work out that way, that's fine, but it is absolutely not the best way to go about progressing.
I cant imagine how somebody who is doing even a very limited Training schedule (some core, basic weights, some hangboard) is remembering all the weights and never making any mistake. Besides that its much more important having a plan. Without that tracking is only remembering. And not having a plan is the biggest mistake people are doing when hangboarding.
Hello friends, I hope you are safe and strong! I miss you too ;) Note: I made a video for my lovely Patreon Supporters too so, please do watch that video too! www.patreon.com/rockentry
I saw this video then realized that i have been doing every single thing you mentioned wrong. Luckily i haven't been injured so far, but starting now i'm applying all of your tips. Thank you so much for the helpful video
Luckily now you know! I'm glad you've found this video helpful. Thank you!
I’ve been looking up and arching my back all this time. Thanks for the tips.
Best hands down hang board advice I've seen so far .....
Thanks for all the tips! I started climbing one and a half year ago and yesterday I climbed my first 7a+ & 7B boulder. couldn't have done it whitout your tips on technique. Thanks again and keep up the good work on the vids
that's some impressive progress
Great tips brother! Logging is definitely important for tracking your progress and seeing if what you’re doing is working!
Can’t wait to see your progress when we’re climbing on rock amigo!
As for swinging, I like to slowly load the fingers. This means that before my feet come off the ground, they'll drag on my toes until I'm directly under the board. And then at that point I take my toes off the ground.
gahhh this makes me miss hangboarding with u :-((( can’t wait to get back outside again. def need to get back on journaling my hangboard workouts; it’s so easy to lose track of which workouts you did!
I miss your good vibes both on the rock and gym. Good times!
I have a hangboard but I think I have been using it wrong. It is hanging in my garage so it is doing it's job as a "hang" board but apparently I am also supposed to hang on it. I will try that.
Yeah, your fingers wont magically increase strength just by hanging a board and leaving it there. Put it to use my friend lol!
About to install my hangboard. Need some advice:
What space would you recommend above the hangboard? For doing pullups. Like how much space above the jugs to the ceiling is recommended
thx for your videos and climbing tips, i've been watching for few time and now feel i've a progress
Excellent video for us beginners. Thanks. I can see why slipping is such a bad idea. The sudden release of force, and also hanging to the point that the tissues can't support your weight, definitely an injury zone. You didn't mention recovery time. I've been wondering how long to leave between sessions. My forearms ache when I go climbing but by the end of the session they feel ok. Then a few days later they are aching at the next session and by the end they are ok. Is this normal? Do forearms ache until they are warmed up?
😂 I totally did most of these mistakes the other day when i decided to try out the hangboard....going back today with a little knowledge will be helpful, thanks!
Great video. When i first saw the closet i thought this would be a bdsm coming out. Thanks for the tips. I was definitely arching out.
Great vid !! Definitely needed this, esp during this question period
You got me good with counting fast in my head, my dawg 😆🤙
Its so awesome to randomly find channels from people I kinda know because they appeared in a magnus video.
it would be nice if you explain a bit what happens with a tendon when you slip and the bouncing effect happens.
Firstly, a huge thanks for your great content; I’ve been climbing for 14months now and gained immensely from you insights. Got the same hangboard just before UK lock down and have found the accompanying app really useful - any reason you didn’t or stopped using it?
Great hangboard! I've never used the app. I'm already used to the interval app I use. It just goes very well with my bodyweight training and HIITS. If the app works for you that is great tho! Which ever makes your workout go as smooth as possible. Keep at it!
@@rockentry Hey I really enjoy your videos Thanks! What timer app are you using?
Thanks dude!
By the way, what's the name of this beautiful big green plant? Looking for something similar for my interior
It’s a fiddle-leaf tree :)
such a useful video!! thank you sm for this :)
Hi! What about crimp, full crimp and open hand? What do you think about it?
Hi!! first of all congratulations for your channel, it's amazing. I have one question about the mounting board for your hangboard. Where can I find something like this? did you built it by your own? my wall is pladur and I can`t install my hangboard directly on it. Thx
Get plywood there are many videos on how to build your own climbing wall it’s the same concept
Hey, I'm a fairly new climber (3 months b4 quarantine) and I have no clue what hangboard to get. Any help?!?! I want something with good holds I can also do pull ups on. I know as a new climber I shouldn't go too hard on the hangboard but there's not much else to do during quarantine.
The one I'm using BeastMaker 1000 is great! you get variety of holds from large to small and feels great on your skin. Good jug holds on top corners for pull-ups and frenchies like you see in the start of this video.
The hangboard that he has is the Beastmaker 1000. It is more intermediate, but has a small jug that is good for pull ups. I own a beastmaker 2000 which I would not recommend for a beginner, as it is way too difficult. If you are desperate for a hangboard, I'd recommend the Beastmaker 1000 because the wood is nice on your hands, competitive pricing, variety of holds, and has some larger edges. However, you don't really need a hangboard so soon because they are really expensive and you are prone to injure since you are so new. Honestly, I'd save the money and hang from a beam of some sort (balcony, goal net, stairs), and just hang for a long amount of time to build up endurance. Before I got a hangboard, I hung from a 2x4 beam for over a minute at a time to build endurance. The small holds are good for building max strength, but you are prone to injury, and in all honesty, you probably aren't encountering super tiny edges on climbs just yet.
Also check out some wrist curl workouts. Other climbers have posted videos of routines you can do. It'll build forearm strength in a much more controlled manner so you won't hurt yourself. It's alright if you don't have weights. You can use resistance bands or jugs/bottles of water in a bag. If you're still hellbent on a hangboard, you can also check out Metolius for more budget options. I've heard from friends a lot of boards are back ordered though.
Man your videos are real lessons. They rly help me a lot as a beginner. Thx a lot e congrats for your well done job
Glad you're enjoying the content and it's helping! Much love.
But why not slip off? Seemed like a super serious reason but not actually explained
I would imagine… as your hand slips, in that split second, when only one finger is left and the weight is too much, pulley breaks😭
Great advice!
Really good video BRO! AND I DEFINITELY AGREE ABOUT MAKING NOTES ABOUT EACH TRAINING CAUSE FOR EXAMPLE I AFTER A WEEK OR MBY TWO TOTALLY FORGET ABOUT HOW MANY HANGS AND TIME DID I HOLD. NICE TIPPS REALLY
Great video. Thanks
Greate video! And thanks(: I didn't know about 90% og these mistakes
Thanks for tips! I love your videos. My mistakes: 1, 4 😅
What I don't get, if you hang to the max, why should you count or use a timer?
Besides I’m not adding any additional weight, I almost make every single mistake you mentioned... Thank you for sharing these tips!
Don't increase your weight too fast. Get comfortable with the board/holds first and then increase intensity slowly. Glad I could help!
Does anyone know what timer app he uses? Thanks!
Thanks for this! 🤘 I am 5 for 5 of doing it wrong-😝 I’m going to practice a lot more so I am doing right. 🙏
lol hey you must be doing something right! You’re so strong my man! I’ve seen you training.
@@rockentry My excuses ended last week. Did my first true session with Beastmaker 2000. Now I'm 4 for 5 of doing it right, to include logbook. The one I know is an easy fix is not going to failure where my fingers slip off - use my feet before exhaustion. Thanks for this video.
I know this is an old video but is it ok to count in your head if you are doing set times? Like I usually count 15 seconds and do three sets of 15 seconds and sometimes I do 20 seconds if I am feeling good. I feel like I make sure I count slow but maybe not 😂
Great video!
Thank you!
Question is it normal to get shoulder socket pain the day after the first time bouldering. I'm new to climbing any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Train scapula pulls, you need to develop the scapula to ensure healthy shoulders. They are the hips of the upper body afterall :) after 2 weeks you shouldn't struggle with this issue
@@BEMARBURNOUT thank you I appreciate your feedback. I'm going to focus on that area any other workouts you recommend?
@@NJRangerGeorge face pulls, using resistance bands or rings/TRX handles. This will supplement the scapula pulls really well and ensure that your shoulders and upper back muscles are prepared to take the strain of bouldering. They will also really work wonders on your day to day posture. I would also recommend spending a good amount of time warming up and doing daily yoga. Just follow a 10/20min yoga routine on UA-cam and you will really build some incredible strength that will carry directly over to your climbing and also your daily life. You have to remember you have your body for the rest of your life so longevity is key, Yoga quite literally builds strength, teaches you the importance of breath control and prolongs the tendons/ligaments. You will naturally progress this to doing hand stands, planche pushups...etc (down the line) Do Yoga daily and you will adapt quickly,as with any habit/skill. Consistency is key, you won't regret it looking back in a month's time feeling healthier and learning through your own experiences!
great video! got a hangboard not long ago... But I have to know, what kind of plant is this? looks really nice :)
looks like a fiddle leaf fig
Thanks for this Ozzy! This was so helpful for me.
nice vid! but you should have talked about mistake number 7. not enough rest between Sessions.
Thank you so much one more time .Please could you give some specific advices for women ?
First tip and I instantly felt better using the HB
hi, thanks for all tips ! always good ideas
I’m kind of scared of hangboarding because my fingers regularly tear bad while doing it. Any tips to help prevent that?
Start with climbing more and wait for a good year until you first use the hangboard, worked for me, haven’t had any issues with hangboarding, though I am just doing it once to twice a week with one or better two rest days in between. Some light bouldering and 1 time of hard climbing in the week.
You need to sand the edges down.
Great video! I use fingerboard while lockdown very often, so this is very interesting material
Glad you liked it!
It's a great video, congratulations!!! And thank you
Thank you too!
Ozzie, do you always chalk up while hangboarding?
yes!
What interval timing app do you use?
I recently got a beast maker 1000 and use the preset workouts on their app, would you recommend these or your own custom workout? Thanks
Depends what you want to train, the presets are more suited to route climbers than boulders so have a greater focus on endurance than strength. Max strength training where you're holding a certain edge size at a certain weight for about 10 seconds (with this feeling like your max) would be more suited to improved finger strength for bouldering. That said the presets would be less stressful on your tendons if you're new to hangboarding due to the lower intensity of these workouts and have the benefit of conditioning you for longer climbing sessions.
nice video, thanks for the tips
Very useful
Any tips on finding a beast maker 1000 available for purchase state side?
Great edits and tips!
Appreciate it!
what do you recommend for tracking progression etc?
I use “Grips and Grades“ available for Android (no affiliation).
Just a notebook and a pen. That’s all you need. Write Down your goals and then make an action plan to achieve them.
The old ways are often the best :-)
🐲 Below the hangboard I prefere to have free space. So I can pull up nicely. I prefere to pull up a bit during hanging. So I use my core and shoulders better. Okay, with weight, you are right.
.
Yeah, that would work with bodyweight only. Once you start adding weight it gets tricky hehehe
Thanks Oswaldo.
Any time
Additional rules of hangboarding too early and too frequently with a disagreement about what you said about not progressing. One of the issues is hangboarding works, especially to supplement minimal or nonexistent climbing, near regardless of training protocols and such. This said, there is a tremendous value in optimized training to assure the intensity is correct for each and every hang, in particular as we transition back to rock and resin with greatly increased intensity without obvious fatigue and early adaptations to the training stimulus. If folks are not engaged, controlled, consistent, etc., they will not progress as fast, but now there comes the added concern of injury causing them to regress.
very informative! Thank you!
he has the same positive energy as mark rober
Does anyone have any links to good hangboard workouts? There's so many conflicting ideas.
Probably there are just different goals and different levels of progress.
Super thank you.
Thanks for the video! Verry helpfull! I have the same hangboard by the way! :)
I love this hangboard!
I have one as well. The 2000 is for people with silly strong fingers
I wont be getting the 2000 as this one will benefit me for a while.
How tall are you Sir ?
so I'm new and I don't even know what you mean by "engaged shoulders" 1:03
you almost hit your head on the ceiling when doing pullups xD
Hit it once and never again! during a power pull-up session lol
I do that all the time. My hangboard is in my small basement and I’m always slamming my big Puerto Rican head!
I noticed your voice clatters very unpleasent like around 4:17
But as always good content thanks a lot!
Ah, Good to know! thanks for pointing this out I'll see what I could improve in the audio for the future. Glad you like the content!
i definitely start counting faster 😂
Using beastmaker and its training app I injured myself
Question: I'm not a strong climber like the hardest problem I've ever done was maybe v6 but I can hang on every hold of my hang board for 10 seconds pretty easy. What should I do to make gains in my fingers?
Yes, but is that a real fiddle-leaf fig plant?
It sure is!
Nice video. I was skeptic whether to hang-board or not when I’ve only been climbing only 7 months. I made my own hangboard actually, Check it out on my channel. Much appreciated x
Ryan Goes Climbing Watched your hangboard video last week. Keep it up 👍🏽
ksenia Kosovan Awesome love to hear it 😆
That’s awesome! Just take it easy when starting off on the hang board and you should be good. Best of luck!
rockentry Thanks Aussie, think I’ll ease myself into it. Look forward to the next video. (Hope we can collab one day) 😆
Your fingers will be doing all the work regardless of how your body is, the finger is the only thing supporting the rest of your body no matter what you do
If you watched this video don't believe that you or anyone can add 65 lbs to your max half crimp strength in 2 months, as that would be a recipe for injury and is likely impossible.
Another great video but promoting that this guy progressed from 0 to 65 lbs half crimp strength during 2 months of quarantine is misleading. I straight up don't believe that he couldn't half crimp with a single pound of weight even though he has climbed V10, no way. I might believe that he never tested himself, but from what I have heard that kind of half crimp strength is going to take much longer than progressing from 0 to 65 lbs pull-up strength since tendons are much slower to strengthen than muscles. I think adding 65 lbs to one's max pull-up strength is something that might take at least a 1/2 year (assuming 2.5 lb progression per week), meaning adding 65 lbs to half crimp strength is something that takes years, not months. I'm no expert but my source for this info is Eric Horst, likely the most famous and well respected climbing coach alive right now.
Dude... We all have our strengths and weaknesses. I've started training the Open/Half also known as the chisel crimp thanks to my friend Pro climber Paul Robinson Prior to this training/quarantine. and has helped me tremendously in my climbing BUT my half crimp has been my weakness and you can tell once I get on a climb that focused more on half crimp unlike the V10 i was working on all moves work with my strength, I couldn't sent it. I'm very comfortable with slopers too... I've been climbing for 4 years, dude it is all added experience and past training. Also, I have been training NOT Alone but with a group of 3 to 5 climbers video calls 4 to 6 times a week! sharing notes and a timer we hang and rest at the same time. We do this for motivation AND they got different results because.. we. are. all. different. We are still till this DAY nonstop hard work training. When I tell you I went from bodyweight Halfcrimp to 65lb half crimp on medium edge hold, I don't have to lie. why do I have to LIE? I'm documenting my journey in all these videos.
Jesus man... seriously, everyone is different some take a year to climb a V10 some take 10 years it's all different for everyone and same goes when it comes to training.
If you don't believe me then so be it. Trust me... I'm not the only one that knows about my results I have friends that are coaches and Double-digit climbers helping me. Do they think I'm lying? nope.
@@rockentry I agree that people respond differently to training, just doing what I think is best trying to keep people (especially newer climbers) safe out there. I know that a lot of workout progressions start at bodyweight and then slowly add weight, and I have no reason to believe you didn't do that from 0 to 65 lbs. My hypothesis is that you you were already stronger than only being able to hang at bodyweight. Perhaps I misinterpreted what you meant, and you were referring to starting at bodyweight which was easy for you and then going up to 65 lbs. I never said you were lying, just figured it was either a typo or that you were capable of hanging with some weight on when lockdown started 2 months ago. Is that right? Anyway I didn't mean to seem like I was attacking you, I just thought it was important to warn people about injury risk associated with trying to go for such a bold progression. Keep it up and good luck. 💪👍
@@ditkp yes i think you r right
Aigth... looks like I was doing pretty much everything wrong. Thx ?
5 Big mistakes.... or is it 6? 8:06 suprise!
youtube in not recommending your videos 😞
hhmm.. hit the bell notification and that should do it, hopefully! UA-cam is weird like that.
you're engaging your scapula *
U should give a based argument on the things u shouldn’t do
( u only say don’t do that and laugh without argument or scientific base)
Cool video though
Engaging you're lats not shoulders lol
First!
You get the first heart!
Don't count time. Count your breaths and control it. If you don't want timer. Focus on breathing and muscle contractions as you count.
Yes, you could do that too.
I’ve tried this method and I’d prefer just to have a timer to time my hangs both on and off and between sets rest.
i agree with everything except for the last one, you don't have to track anything to get gains. when you go to a gym you don't typically track your workouts, you go in and know what you feel you need to train to get those gains that day. your body tells you what is feeling weakest, what needs the most work, how hard or how easy you have to go. a book telling you what you did can be helpful to track the progress, but ultimately it won't tell you what you have to do, just shows you what you did
I couldn't disagree more. Tracking your workout is the only way to figure out whether you are making any progress. The problem you are describing (adapting the load of the workout depending on your current form), I think, has been “solved“: check out resources on your preferred search engine for “rate of perceived exertion“ or “RPE“. Here's a link I found in my bookmarks (no affiliation, no claims or liability whatsoever): propanefitness.com/rpe-method-implement-rpes-training-bryce-lewis-guest-article/
Yeah, If not tracking your progress helps you then great! It isn’t for everyone.
It’s definitely helped me progress dramatically and helps me keep focused knowing which weight, set, reps, handholds I’m doing and helps me see different kind of patterns, which days I’ve been feeling week or strong and why? Also, I have bad memory so it definitely helps me, specially when I’m also doing bodyweight training.
For me, Knowing what I did prior helps me know what’s my next steps.
@@rockentry i get that, planning will help some people, all i meant was that it isn't a necessity to progress. if helps that's great. I personally found it harder to record it unless i went with either as little data as possible, or as much as possible. anything in between just seemed to confuse me.
great video though!
Echoing Sebastian, I couldn't disagree more. I don't want to just restate what he said, though I agree with his points. Additionally, "listening to your body" is the biggest scam in the training world. Of course, being conscious of your body and the condition it's in is important, especially for spotting oncoming injuries, but your perception =/= reality when it comes to "what needs the most work, how hard or easy you have to go" I'd also disagree that "you" don't typically track your workouts. "You" being the average person, gets terrible gains, hurts their body, and ultimately does not progress reliably. Without documenting and tracking, you're not ensuring overload and you're randomizing your progression. If you prefer to work out that way, that's fine, but it is absolutely not the best way to go about progressing.
I cant imagine how somebody who is doing even a very limited Training schedule (some core, basic weights, some hangboard) is remembering all the weights and never making any mistake. Besides that its much more important having a plan. Without that tracking is only remembering. And not having a plan is the biggest mistake people are doing when hangboarding.
Bullshit i don't need to track.